73 replies to this topic

[Horsepower]

Done with Tide and the Buffalo polishing media stones? I love those frames and this one brings a tear to my eye! It's like chrome!

[JohnnySlotcar]

I used loctite blue to lock down the rear end in the challenge.Ran a Cox gear, still looks like new with great mesh.

[Pablo]

Kim's body finally arrived. I have no idea what it is, but for sure it is way too long for this chassis.
So, I swapped to a shorter front end. WB is now 3 15/16 and GL is 5/8.





Havlicek Mabuchi motor is inbound soon.

Now to decide what wheels and tires to use.......

[Pablo]

These are what Kim sent, and look pretty cool, they will work fine:



Into the tumbler.......

[Jairus]

The body is a BRM. Paint British Racing Green with a bright orange ring around the nose.

[Pablo]

Thank You, Sir.

[Jairus]

That's the pinnacle Lotus 38 (known as the Lotus 43) in my opinion. BRM made a monster H16 engine for Grand Prix. Google "BRM Lotus H16" for detailing info. But there were other paint schemes used.
My favorite "cigar car"!

[Pablo]

Kim will be the painter. My job is easy, just assembling

[Noose]

That appears to be one of John Dilworth's BRMS that we use in the JD GP class. I did one up for Tony P similar to what Jairus has suggested.

[Pablo]

Thanks Noose I am getting revved up now

[Pablo]

Alpha Wonder Rubber donuts and EJ's #15 tires are drying on the rims.........

Dynamic tongue was faced with a Magnehone threader, and a Gold Cup flag fits perfect, using a Duffy brass weight. Thanks , Duffy, you are the Man



Now, where did I put those doggone Dynamic F1 motor mounts ??

[Kim Lander]

Jairus.....you read my mind....thats exactly the colors I am going to use....Kim

[Kim Lander]

Hey Noose...thats one of the bodies I bought from you a year or so ago....its gonna look good...Kim

[Pablo]

Axles are STRAIGHT, Kim hehehe

[Pablo]

Wheels with first rough cut of rubber.

Is anybody familiar with the metal gears in this photo ?
Are they any good? Will they mesh well with a brass pinion ? Are they 48 P ?
The smaller one is marked "32" and the larger one is marked "36". Both are marked "DM".
Thanks, Pablo

[Jairus]

Dynamic gears and I have never been able to get them to play well with other gears. Yes they are 48 pitch.

[Hworth08]

Most of the Dynamic (DM) gears are pretty good and some with a deep tooth are excellent. The two pictured are early shallow tooth gears.

These gears work well with a brass pinion if they don't have too much run out. A combination of tooth paste mixed with fine valve grinding compound is excellent for break-in. When the gear gets a little brass facing on the teeth she's ready to go!

Some times these gears run a quiet as a modern steel pinion and Parma gear does but often doesn't.

[Horsepower]

I used those many years back and they worked great for me, but they need careful initial adjustment. They also look great polished or bead blasted.

[Pablo]

Something is not right with the pitch. The 32 Dynamic mikes at .685 OD and a Cox 31 mikes at .769.
Methinks it is a bastard pitch. I guess all I can do is test it, but I have a feeling Jairus is right. The teeth look awfully fine for 48 pitch.

We shall see. Right now, waiting on the Havlicek powerplant

[Hworth08]

Just from looks I'd guess the gear on the left is okay. Chuck the right hand gear in a drill and there's probably runout (wobble).

Gary's right about the initial adjustment.

At that period MDC had a better metal gear. Then Weldum released a nice straight nylon gear that stole the market. Cox would have had a good gear but only about one in four was runout free. Classic's brass gear was probably the truest running but looked so heavy!

[Pablo]

I appreciate the info.

Just curious about one thing, "careful initial adjustment" ?? Does this mean something above and beyond normal inline gear adjustment ? I only do it one way, and that is, uh, pretty careful; is there more to it than that ??

Will toothpaste really fix a bad gear with lots of wobble ?

[Hworth08]

NO! Toothpaste is just for breaking in a new, good gear. Use a torch on a wobbly gear. Melt it till it looks like a ball of solder!

Just set up a "breaking in" gear a little tighter than normal and run it slow checking to see that the motor isn't getting hot. In the old days we didn't have power supplies so we would "run in" a new gear in about 10 laps segments at slow speed, then apply more break in medicine with a drop of oil and check the mesh. It takes about 15 minutes of repeating this. A gear that started too tight will "sling off" enough metal that it will get loose. If the car had a body you'd see flakes of the gear stuck to the inside. That was good, unlike seeing metal flakes on a spark plug!

Course now a person can use a bench power supply for break in. Use to the controller would get hot in 10 or so laps of slow running.

[Pablo]

That's a lot of work. I may try the 32 just to see. If it works OK I'll run it in like you said, Don. Thanks !

[Hworth08]

A good pair of gears was very important in the pre-Arco period. Good gears made a car a good bit easier to drive and cut lap times two or three tenths.

Course that was off 10 second laps on a 240 foot Engleman!LOL

Nice steel pinions of today are so nice.

[Pablo]

I stripped the threads on the Dynamic 32 , so I guess you could say, that was the end of that experiment !!
I'm going to go with a 7 brass/29 Cox combo, giving me 4.14 gears with approx. .850 OD rears......

The Havlicek powerplant looks superb, and sounds very very smooth, a perfect match for this little car.



Photo of endbelldrive genuine art: