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#1 Duffy

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:12 AM

I've been doing this painting thing in earnest for about six months, I guess, since about the time a work accident limited my facility with my dominant hand and cut into my chassis-building. So, part physical therapy, part I-just-get-a-royal-kick-out-of-it. I figure I'll put up some bodies I'm painting and try to get some talk about techniques going.

There're two things I'd like to be talking about with this, if I'm real lucky: brush techniques, and color layout. I figure there're more ways to approach these topics than there are characters in A Game Of Swords who you just know're gonna die spectacularly, but I've been inspired by the guys who do this well and I'd like to see some techniques getting discussed for the benefit of future generations. Or guys who tune in tomorrow. Whatever.

Anyway, I'll start filling up bandwidth in the next couple days; in the meantime here's some color to brighten up the first post.

duffa2.jpg

Parma acrylic inside, 1-Shot lettering enamels out. I hope you guys are all old enough to get the Sly & the Family Stone joke in the theme.

Lacking progress shots (I don't know what'll become a useful Teaching Moment until after it went horribly wrong), I'll just remark here, the aluminum color was s'posed to be pearl white, but I thinned it too much and the silver all sank to the undersurface. I'd been pushing the acrylic through a too-fussy Thayer & Chandler airbrush...since this, I got an entry-level Iwata double-action unit that I can push the paint thru at 40 lb.

This managed to cop a Concours win at a local meet, and now I'm all ambitious. If I ain't fast, at least I can be pretty.

More later.

Duffy


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#2 Pablo

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:26 AM

SWeeeT :good:
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#3 John Streisguth

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:42 AM

You're my pick to take the concours trophy this year.
"Whatever..."

#4 Duffy

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 10:21 AM

You're my pick to take the concours trophy this year.


Awww. Well, like a good sportsman I must modestly declare that was only like maybe 70% of my intent here, 85% tops. And the real fun part is, if you glance around the table you'll see at least three guys who alla-sudden got their eyes on that pretty Jose Rodriguez plaque! Gennlemens, we gots ourselves a race here.

I have to spend the next few days tuning a couple cars for The Fall Brawl, but pretty quick I'm gonna want to get up a brush-technique diagnostic here. Next week.

Duf
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#5 Chewy

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 10:51 AM

Nice, Duffy, I wanna take you higher... :to_become_senile: :whistle3:
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#6 NY Nick

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 11:14 AM

Ok Duff what about Sex machine you know that one?
The Body great, will you be painting more?
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#7 Duffy

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 11:41 AM

Nice, Duffy, I wanna take you higher


Right, Jeff, & I guess it's not real clear in the pic but up front is the punchline: "I wanna TQ Higher!"...
And, no I don't have plans of doing any James Brown-themed cars at the moment.
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#8 NY Nick

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:00 PM

No Duffy there is a sly stone song same name, from the same album.
will you be painting for racer's?
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#9 NJ Racer

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:25 PM

Duffy

A very refreshing topic to say the least. Lets see more soon!
"Ya gotta be in it to win it"

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#10 Tex

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:23 PM

Nice lookin' paint job, Duffy!
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#11 Duffy

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:39 PM

No Duffy there is a sly stone song same name, from the same album.


I was having a small joke...

will you be painting for racer's?


But -but - this is a racer. I know, I'm slow, but still...
Okay, all seriousness aside: let's get into it.

Here's one with a few things to talk about in it. About this time, I was beginning to think about "Sponsors" and how race cars started sporting all kinda stickers for different brands & such. More recently I got to thinking about how those became part of the overall paint theme, and how I might try to do something like that - but not yet.
So, this is the start of it all, and hopefully we'll be able to address how that progresses from here. If I ever manage to paint anything more, that is.

Duffy McL 02sb.jpg

Like I said, all the spraying is Parma acrylics. I don't have the ventilation here to do lacquers. This was my first successful pearl-white: just a dusting of pearl then back it up solid with plain white, and it's blinding in person! Then, Fasblue backed up with a spritz of silver and all sealed with white.
The "Sponsor" credits here are all for fun. I had just got an assortment of good brushes recommended by my Mentor Noose, and was learning how to make 'em do what they're supposed to. A lot more on this as the thread continues, and hopefully some suggestions and where-I-went-wrong from you guys! This ain't a Vanity Thread, I need critical comment.

Duffy McL 01sb.jpg

For starters, look at the red cheat line here: it's intended to be about .030" wide, and it was laid down in 1-Shot Lettering Enamel using a 18/0 Loew-Cornell Golden Taklon Script Liner.
I wish I'd taken pics as I painted -
I spent some time loading the brush and getting the feel of it on a blotter. I was taught to fill any brush not past half its bristle length; true for these? - And then, to move the loaded brush only as fast as paint flows down onto the work. I was holding the brush at a medium angle here and laying the bristles almost down flat but not quite, so to allow the long bristles to sorta weathervane along and not wobble witth my shakey hand.
Still, there's a lot of wiggle and variance in the width of the line when you look close.
Hey, my wife just got back from voting and my cat's having a sneezing fit, so I'm gonna stop typing and let you experienced guys tell me what I'm doing.

Duffy
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#12 GearBear

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:19 PM

I'm not sure how Noose does it as I have never seen one of his bodies in person. I don't have the lettering/striping skills to do it like he does, so here is how I would go about it if I were painting the F1 car, I would draw up a mask in Inkscape, and then import it into a program called "Make the cut". This then would be "printed" to my bottom of the line 12" vinyl cutter from USCutter.com. I would then use some masking tape (I don't have any true transfer tape yet) and transfer the vinyl to the body. Thus, I would have the Pearl area with the line around it and the numbers masked. If I felt lucky, I might even do some of the lettering that way.

I would then work on the details for the motor and driver. Once they were done, I would shoot the blue and then back it. Then pull off the surrounding line shoot it red and back it. Then pull the pearl masks and shoot that and back it. Etc... Since I use water based paints, I would be hitting the paint with a heat gun between each spray to heat set the paint.

I always like to shoot from dark to light if I can. Otherwise you can get bleed through that can really affect the colors.

BTW: That blue totally changes color if you back it in white vs backing it in black! Backed in white it is a nice bright blue. Backed in black it is a beautiful midnight blue. I typically back things in white rather than silver. I'll have to do more work using silver to back up the colors.

One of the best things I ever did for my painting was buying the vinyl cutter and software. The make the cut software is easy to use and very easy to take a set shape and put a border on it either inside or outside of the shape. I use the Avery paint masking in my Vinyl Cutter.
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#13 Guardrail

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:34 PM

Sorry, no critical comment from me they look great!
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#14 GearBear

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:49 PM

Please note Duffy, I'm not criticizing your work. I'm just sharing with you how I go about painting something like that! And my work likely won't be as clean looking as what you did on either of the posted bodies! I just don't have the time (nor the eyesight) to devote to getting that attention to detail.

Typically, on my bodies, the only thing done on the outside of the body is some sponsor stickers, body line details done with a fine line drafting pen, and the driver details done with colored Sharpie or Identi-pen pens. I prefer the Identi-Pen's as they have better color saturation IMHO. One of these days I need to invest in some good quality flat paints and some fine brushes!
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#15 Noose

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 09:17 PM

First, it is Jose Rodriguez there Duffster. We honor his memory as a slot racer that built gorgeous scale looking cars besides having many other talents.

Now on to your work. I am the judge of concours out here and nine of my work or any other commercial painter's work is eligible. Work like Duffy's is what it's all about.

Whether a brush is full or half full is something I give little thought to. Maintaining the line that is intended in striping or lettering is what is important. A minimum amount of a stroke with the right line to accomplish the objective is key.

Color coordination is something inherit that you have to feel IMO. The challenge is not whether it looks good to you but for whom it it is intended. In your case of course it is to please your eyes.

One of the fun things though is when around half way through doing a body you feel it sucks. The thrill comes when that toad becomes a prince when it's done and you can sit back and say damn that did out pretty good.

Paint on!

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#16 Duffy

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 09:18 PM

Please note Duffy, I'm not criticizing your work. I'm just sharing with you how I go about painting something like that!


Gary, and EVERYBODY, this is exactly the sort of comment I want filling this thread, and including the links to and hard information about the tools and resources. Thank you, and as much as you are able I'd like to beg your time and effort to keep posting in the sort of detail you've demonstrated here - it gives all of us what we need to make choices about what we're trying to do.

I've tried using vinyl mask, and it's some intriguing stuff. Got a roll from Blick & tried cutting some stuff, freehand...and here's what happened:
I was going for all-across-the-bod which made for a big mask, so to make it easier to fiddle in I did it in two symmetrical pieces. To get matching sides, I sandwiched vinyl on both faces of some clear plastic (no nice software here!) and snipped it all out; then tried to peel the thin vinyl off the carrier with tweezers. Ehhhh-not-sooo-good, but not disastrous.
Then, it was a mess to get the vinyl into the bod.
My question about Make The Cut software is, does it work in more than flat form? What do we do when skinning around a curvy shape? Easiest, I imagine, is to just pre-think the design so we have some fudge room in our masks, just like we'd do with any other medium.
All the tools we have are only as convenient as they are, and no more. We'll have a learning curve with anything. Pun not intentional. No, really.

oddmasks.jpg

I gotta admit, part of my nasty mind is plotting some paint schemes that make it more dufficult - you know, I'm gonna leave that typo right as it sits, "Duffycult" ought to become part of the accepted Slotblog vernacular - anyway, more difficult to manage without a lot of fussy set-up: like, wrapping around the curvier bods like the Lotus 40 so popular in Jaildoor Sports Car. I am an evil little choker, I am. Above is a pic of a couple of works-in-progress that show the kind of muss I'm intending here. We can talk about them as they work up to the top of the pile.

Let's keep this part of the conversation going, as it's a BIG deal. I'll get into stories about masking tape soon.

Duf

EDIT:

First, it is Jose Rodriguez there Duffster. We honor his memory as a slot racer that built gorgeous scale looking cars besides having many other talents.


Ohhh AAARGH! I've corrected that blunder in my first post. -duf
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#17 Rick

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 09:33 PM

Gotta hand it to you Duffy, you are man of many talents and the above bodies are outstanding pretty!!! Nice job Michael.................
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#18 Duffy

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 09:44 PM

Couple other points (it's Election Night, and this is WAY more fun than hanging off the front of the flatscreen!)

Whether a brush is full or half full is something I give little thought to. Maintaining the line that is intended in striping or lettering is what is important. A minimum amount of a stroke with the right line to accomplish the objective is key.


A statement like that, it's by no means a concrete or definitive one; there's no "quantity" to it. And I suspect that that's precisely where the learning and the experience will lead, is the understanding & utilization of that nonspecific statement.

One of the fun things though is when around half way through doing a body you feel it sucks. The thrill comes when that toad becomes a prince when it's done and you can sit back and say damn that did out pretty good.


I figure that moment will happen more regularly after I've already dragged through a whole peck of bods that NEVER GET BETTER EVER. Y'think?

Duf
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#19 Mike Patterson

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 09:47 PM

Hey Duf, Nice Stuff!

You were asking about color coordination. I would Google 'Munsell's'(I don't remember the title), and see what you get. We used Munsell's book in art school, and it taught me a lot.

I think your cut lines look pretty good. When are you going to tackle some flames?

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#20 olderracer

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 09:51 PM

Duffy:

Those bodies are awesome. Wish I could hand letter like that!

---------------Regards-------------Jack
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#21 GearBear

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 01:13 AM

Duffy,

I use the Make-The-Cut software to do the layout on the vinyl. Ialso use it for making the Number and lettering masks. I use Inkscape to do the vector drawings. You could do this with any Vector drawing program but Inkscape is freware so I chose it.

Trying to get the paint mask to go into the nooks and crannys on our bodies is one of the most difficult aspects of doing a good paint job IMHO. I try to use a heat gun to soften up the vinyl so I can stretch it if needed to get it to stick to the recessed areas. One of the other keys is to use a transfer tape to hold the various parts of the masking in position after cutting and weeding it. To start with I have been using the green Frog tape for this after detacking it on my shirt. I have also used clear packing tape for this. I think it works better.
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#22 NSwanberg

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 03:37 AM

Sweet! Sly would be proud. Boom Shaka Laka Laka? Isn't that the sound the car's of professional slot car track wall testers make when their cars hit the wall? I've been accused of wall to wall racing a time or two.

#23 Noose

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 08:13 AM

The problem with vinyl IMO whether heated or burnished to death is that it will still lift when hit with paint. This of course for me is something that occurs because I use lacquer paints. That's why I sometimes don't use vinyl window masks too.

Not getting to much in any one area is the only way to avoid this.


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#24 Duffy

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 09:01 AM

I use the Make-The-Cut software to do the layout on the vinyl...I try to use a heat gun to soften up the vinyl so I can stretch it if needed to get it to stick to the recessed areas.ED: From earlier post - Since I use water based paints, I would be hitting the paint with a heat gun between each spray to heat set the paint.

The problem with vinyl IMO whether heated or burnished to death is that it will still lift when hit with paint. This of course for me is something that occurs because I use lacquer paints. That's why I sometimes don't use vinyl window masks too.


I'm copy&pasting these entries to put these important bits together. The demands with acrylic versus the enamels need to be looked at as we go along. I helps to remember who's using what & all.

Not getting too much [paint] in any one area is the only way to avoid this.


Well, that's just about Rule One in airbrushing, ain't it!

I know there're basic tutorials here and elsewhere that cover aspects of painting in depth. We oughta link them in here for the convenience of readers. Then, this thread functions as a real discussion thread, I-use-this-because kind of stuff.

Duf (still blushing over the Jose Rodriguez goof...lucky I didn't pull that stunt with Jerome Havlicek, he'd never let me off.)
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#25 Samiam

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 03:02 PM

Duff,
That is some very nice work.I can see the "NOOSE" influence.
I saw the chassis you built for Blaha last night at SAL.Nice work.
Are you up to traveling ?
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#26 GearBear

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 04:35 PM

The problem with vinyl IMO whether heated or burnished to death is that it will still lift when hit with paint. This of course for me is something that occurs because I use lacquer paints. That's why I sometimes don't use vinyl window masks too.

Not getting to much in any one area is the only way to avoid this.


So, what do you use then? I've thought about trying the liquid mask that they sell for the RC guys, but our bodies are so thin I worry about using a knife to trim the mask after putting it on. With the 10 thou bodies we use for Retro that isn't such a concern. But for the 5 though bodies I use for Eurosport it is a major concern.
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#27 Duffy

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 06:01 PM

I'll start with MY answer while Noose deals with Two of Nature's Big One-Two Punch: Tamiya Masking Tapes. Stuff comes in convenient rolls from like 4mm up to reely big, and while the dispensers might be fine in use, you can get away with ripping a piece off on your thumbnail and buy refills cheap.

Here's one of my first tries at this masking thing:

Lotus 40 Mask 01sb.jpg

See, after a couple of careful vinyl cutouts ended in a little crumpled clear hairball shape, I tried what you see here. Sketched out the color separation line on the outside with a Sharpie, refined my line with an alcohol wipe & re-did 'til I liked it, and then started applying tape to the inside guided by what's outside.

The point in the middle, that's two bits cut out beforehand with an approximation of the curve, only narrower than the total angle of the point; place one down with tweezers and then place the other so the pointy tips match and the curve runs right on both sides, & smooth the overlap with a Q-tip.
Continue walking around the curve outlines with either short straight bits or cut-out curves - it's pretty easy to guesstimate a cut curve and find some place to fit it in there - and then fill in the middle with big pieces.
You don't even need to push the filler tape all the way down, as long as the inside edge's all stuck together: you can see how the nose is gapped here, but the tape covers it where it counts.

This takes the brainwork out of inside-skinning complex shapes.

Duf
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#28 Duffy

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 06:21 PM

Here's another example of that lay-out-the-outside-&-mask-inside thing. This is a Stocker I started during my convalescence from hip-replacement surgery, so the "Sponsor" livery uses the logo for the hospital whee the work was done; I'm gonna paint in the surgeon's name as the "driver," too.

HSS Dodge 01sb.JPG

You see the logo on the brochure on the table. I'm copying it full-size so I could measure it while I worked. I cut a square of vinyl mask and laid it on the outside in various positions 'til I found a skew I liked, and traced around the square with the Sharpie. Then, the rest of the design is measure & lay out: all that needed cutting was the circle "head," & the "arms & legs" are luckily a stock size of the Tamiya tape. I didn't even have to draw the outline of those limbs on the body, just the centerlines & then line up on the inside.
In a couple of hard corners, I had to slice the tape and press it in, then lay a little patch over the cut. Once I forgot to patch, and got a bright blue line along a ridge of the door. I just scraped the paint outwith the point of a needle file and wiped the rest out with a wipee on the file tip. Hey, it's just like extra roughing-up in there, right?
When I'd got the outlines all taped, I laid in big panels of my vinyl mask and taped edged shut where necessary.

Hey, anybody need to know how to mask windows? I picked this tip up right here, in a thread some years back & I thank that forgotten painter:
Tape over the window on the outside of the body, & hold up to a bright light and trace the outlines of the window bars. (You can make dark lines on the raw plastic to trace to before taping.) Then peel up from the outside & cut the shape, and apply to the opposite sides on the inside. hey!presto, perfect window masks.

Duffy
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#29 Noose

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 07:26 PM

I use Tamiya tape for everything except say a major large area. Then I will use the ol blue tape.

On masking windows something some guys do is run a sharpie around the lines on the outside then after laying the tape in, you can see the lines.

One must always use a very sharp, typically new, x-acto blade too. Of course watch out how hard you press to cut the tape because if it's too hard you may find that windscreen popping out during a race. LOL

One of the most important things before doing anything is to prep the body. But that is another story to be shared later.

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#30 Josh Crutchfield

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 08:02 PM

Duffy,

The bodies look great.

3M makes a blue vinyl tape in several sizes from 1/16 to 1 inch. I would also us their automotive grade masking tape. If you lay the design out with the vinyl tape you can then use masking tape to fill the rest in. You can then trim any overlap with a sharp xacto. The vinyl tape works as a buffer to keep the blade from cutting through.

One Shot works good but dries slow. There are a bunch off urethane pinstriping paints out know in many different colors. The major benefit is the dry time. The urethane dries in minutes compared to One Shot. I don't know how you are using the One Shot but when I use it for pinstriping I do a couple things. I use a hardener to help with adhesion and dry time. I also thin the paint a little. The best way is to have a dixie cup with thinner in it and a phone book. Dip the brush in the paint and then in the thinner. Use the phonebook to load the brush by brushing it back and forth. It will help get even lines. You will find what works best for you.

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#31 Duffy

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 08:54 PM

I don't know how you are using the One Shot but when I use it for pinstriping I do a couple things. I use a hardener to help with adhesion and dry time. I also thin the paint a little. The best way is to have a dixie cup with thinner in it and a phone book. Dip the brush in the paint and then in the thinner. Use the phonebook to load the brush by brushing it back and forth. It will help get even lines. You will find what works best for you.


I find I LIKE the long drying time, 'cept for those moments I return too soon to a bod and pick it up in the wrong place...here's why I like it:
I'll mix paint in one of those little white ceramic "lotus bowls" with seven pockets, just a fw drops of any color & blend; just enough for the job, I worry about the cost of this stuf right now in my poverty. Then, yah, dip and wipe - I've actually started collecting the blotters I wipe on, as "Art":

Retro sb.jpg

(Yup. I'm the freekin' Bob Rauschenberg of Slots. I can deal if you can.)

- And the point of the long drying time is, I can work for 30-40 minutes withthose several drops' worth of paint and it don't immediately skin over.

My method. -THIS week, at least.
Duf
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#32 Rick

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Posted 07 November 2012 - 09:43 PM

I'm not an artist or painter of any sorts but my old neighbor, rest his soul, was an old time sign painter and also a fine artist painter. He lettered all my racing toys for me and every Firetruck is 3 towns. I got to watch his method. He used Turpentine as his thinner. He would dip his brush in the One Shot and work it out on the palette then would dip the brush in a small cap with turpetine in it and work the paint until he got it how he wanted it, then attack the sheet metal. I'll have to scour to find some of his work he did for me..........
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#33 Duffy

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 11:37 AM

Here's the last thing I did with a dry brush; halfway through, I re-discovered the dipping-in-thinner thing and started to play with it. If I remember, and I can find the time over the next days, I'll go into a little detail about what I laughingly call "my" brush practice.

Dubhthaigh 03sb.jpg

TonyP Emailed me a link to the etymological roots of the name "Duffy" - turns out to be old Irish, and originally means "The Dark One."
"See," quipped Tony, "I knew there was something to you."
So, I figured it's a natural for a good "Sponsor" livery. "O'Dubhthaigh Irish Bittter Ale."
& once I'd done that, the rest of the car hadda go all-Irish - driver's O'Heinrich, motor rebuilder's O'Hershman, and and and.

Dubhthaigh 01sb.jpg

Here's the best and the worst of the painting: I dug around online for a suitably-workable Celtic font and came up with what you see here; then painted the inner body in first, & ran a fine brush arouns the perimeter second.
I had tried to keep my font size constant by sketching in light guide lines in Sharpie, to wipe off afterwards with alcohol; okay, the alcohol doesn't affect the 1-Shot, but the 1-Shot also didn't stick to the plastic where the Sharpie lines were, so you can see little nicks in the letters where I wiped! Won't do that again.
Also, I lost track of just what I was making large and small, what letters run over top & under bottom; the "h" should be up along the same height and its leg extending above.

Lettering's a big deal. If anyone's really interested in this stuff, I highly recommend the superb WORKBOOK An Introduction to the Elements of Calligraphy by David Lance Goines. His art ain't so bad, neither.

duf
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#34 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 November 2012 - 01:04 PM

NICE !!! :good: :good:

Looking Great.
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#35 Duffy

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 04:46 PM

Here's a great bit from Steve Dietrich that I lifted from another thread, because it's just the kind of thing I'd like to see us discussing here. Thanks, Steve. -duf

Like other interference paints,( read color shift ), they will work best when sprayed lightly and evenly, then backed with black or other color. Many effects are possible by using different backing colors, usually dark colors work best, but you must experiment. A tip for experimentation, is get some clear Mylar film from an arts and craft store, like A.C. Moore or Michaels, in the fine arts dept., and use this for testing and trying new techniques without using up expensive and hard to get bodies. In your case, for example, spray a coat of the interference color, at varying densities, then back with black or other colors, flip the Mylar over and use the combination that gave the best result. The Mylar film is not expensive either. I got a roll of .005 film for about $15 that will last for years. You can , of course, use any clear plastic you have or can find, the Mylar is just the cheapest that I''ve found that is also easy to get. Good luck, and never be afraid to experiment.


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#36 Pete L.

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 07:37 PM

Fellas,

 

 Just my two cents worth...I've used Avery brand stickers in the past with a good amount of success for laquer paint. The water based paint gets soaked up by the paper unless you use a hair dryer right after the mist coat to seal the paper stickers.

 

 Round ones for number meat balls and whell wells, small rectangular ones for GT headlights etc...the best ones I find are the larger 3"x5" lables. You fold them in half and draw a pattern, then cut it out with scissors or an exacto ( the swivel blades are super) when your done you'll have two exact mask of the same shape that you can put on opposite side of the car.

 

 And as you can see I love stickers, I can't letter free hand for spit !

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#37 SteveDee

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 11:25 PM

Another little tip, as I only use acyrlic paints, because I have a real problem with organic solvents, to solve the edge bleeding problem switch to Frog Tape or the 3M version with edge block from your local friendly home center, yes, you will have to cut it to your desired width, but a new #11 blade and a cutting mat make short work of it.  Unless you paint by the flooding method this will work.

 

Just something to think of, I have about 35% nerve damage probably due to exposure to organic solvents and the like when I was younger and still stupid. Don't think this is important, watch me try to letter or stripe something, the shaking is hilarious, I used to be able to lay down a pretty decent stripe with a swordtail brush, too. So please think about all those fumes and take the proper precautions.


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#38 RichKraft

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 07:57 AM

With all of that Boom Shaka Laka Laka going on, your hand still didn't shake or quiver,

you still lay down a very nice line, you're no duffer, a shot of Jameson for you and one

for me, I give you two Irish Whisky shots "dire straits" up, when one thing suffers, another gets bold.

 

Nice stuff Duff! :yes:


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#39 Duffy

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 08:44 PM

Let's talk layout. This was an interesting exercise in stuffing things onto a limited canvas, and I got a couple little victories on it & also a couple things I wish were different.

The "Esso" sponsor theme was suggested by TonyP. I'd never done anything like the tiger before, but I've watched sign painters and had a basic idea of the basic idea.
The real challenge was in finding a place for him to go. Far from the flat canvas afforded by the current fashion in Retro, the knobbby Lotus 40 (always reminds me of an apple fritter) forces everything to drape over all these lumps & bumps! Works great for skinny stripes and such, I guess, but I couldn't place the "sponsor's" graphics in a way that would go along with such.
So I hit on the sorta-asymmetrical pattern here:

Esso JD 05.JPG

Since I try to leave the front panel for just the lane sticker (pulling 'em off will take some paint along, sooner or later), the only other large out-facing area was the spot just aft of the doors. Okay, so I laid out the white fields to clear that spot, deliberately outlining it to make the thing look deliberate - and on the opposite side, I widened the stripe to include the company logo:

Esso JD 04.JPG

- And that's one of the things I think went wrong: the bright, bright RED of the One-Shot paint should have been darkened a bit, more in line with what the Esso red was.

Anyway, before I did any painting or masking, I sketched the tiger several times on the body with a Sharpie. See, the surface there's a real topological anomaly, and I needed to "skin" the tiger in a way that hid the distortion.
What I decided was, I couldn't just work to an angle that the eye would sorta be naturally be forced into: the curvature of the face was gonna be wrong somewhere, no matter what I did. So I stretched it into a skin that wouldn't look quite right from ANY angle!

Esso JD 02.JPG

What you see here has the tiger's face taffy-pulled from right ear to left jowl. When I look at it, I sort of adjust my view to "see" it in its least-distorted vantage, and that works. Maybe I'm kidding myself.
The real fun with this stuff is, I had to lay down the white field for the whole face FIRST, so I had to second-guess how it would drape right at the start. I had sketched out the distorted face in Sharpie, but I couldn't leave that down when I painted over (I'd already learned that hard lesson on the o'Dubhthaigh job!), so I ended up taking a hard look, washing the Sharpie sketch off, and painting quick from memory!
Then, light tan, brown, dark brown, black. Like a sign painter.

Lotta fun.

Duf

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#40 TSR

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 09:23 PM

As the Japanese would say, AH-SOOOO!!



#41 Tex

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 10:42 AM

Very cool, Duffy! Being the artist, you are too familiar with self-perceived flaws that the rest of us don't see.... WONDERFUL tiger! And I love that red/white/blue livery! I hope to do something similar for an Indy car someday.


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#42 Noose

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 10:57 AM

Here is this Tiger Body at our recent race and yes, he won concours hands down with this one. 

 

duffJD concours.jpg


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The only thing bad about Retro is admitting that you remember doing it originally.


#43 Gator Bob

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 11:24 AM

Tiger in your tank ............

 

Looks great Duffy !

 

Tony suggested Esso, but....... Dino said "I would love to see you get Sinclair as a new Sponsor"  ;) 


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#44 Joe Mig

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 11:56 AM

Tony suggested Esso, but....... Dino said "I would love to see you get Sinclair as a new Sponsor"   ;)

 

That Sinclair is a dinosaur .

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#45 Duffy

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 06:36 PM

...self-perceived flaws that the rest of us don't see...

See, those flaws're just what I wanna focus on in this thread: how to learn from what turned out ehhh-NotSoGood, maybe learn some of how to predict where the rocks are before stumbling over 'em, & a lot of sharing what I think I'm doing right & wrong as an example for the next guy trying some of this stuff.
I think there's also value in talking about how I perceive the work, as an example of how well a thing might turn out in spite of all the misgivings. I plowed ahead with this paintjob even tho' I'd never done several of the things I did, figuring it'd turn out passably or it wouldn't show up at the track - but I didn't hesitate to try, and that's my real point in sharing all this.

Duf
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#46 Pablo

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 06:46 PM

I like the way the gas cap turns into a Serpent.

I'm going to have nightmares tonight, I hate those $%%%^^&&* SNAKES !!!!! :laugh2:


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#47 Duffy

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 06:59 PM

I like the way the gas cap turns into a Serpent.

...It was s'posed to be the tiger's tail: remember, "Put a TIGER in your Tank" - ?

See? I's FAAAAILLLED..."
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#48 Pablo

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 07:03 PM

Ohhhh, sorry for the mis-read.

I like it even more, now. :good:  :clapping:


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#49 Duffy

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 07:08 PM

I hate those $%%%^^&&* SNAKES !!!!!

Funny you should mention: a while back, I asked Noose to whup up this comment on my twisty-turny "Slithery Jungle Tails" JD chassis:

Snakes.JPG

--But the moment passed, and I didn't get a chance to use it.

Duf
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#50 Duffy

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 07:17 PM

MORE "Snakes On A Car"...last year I did this Matra, with LSD references all over it, and the "bundle of snakes" exhaust represented by...a bundle of snakes...

Snakes 02.JPG
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