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Lucky 13 Proxy Thingie


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#26 Jaak

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 08:56 AM

I've been thinking about making a .015 "shelf" mated up against the .063 chunk, to make a home for lead weight.

But I decided against it, and made the chunk 1.1 long.

A 1/2" piece of lead will fit nice to the rear of the tongue.

 

 

I like that idea of placing the plumber hinge tube between the front uprights. It might have some applications on retro chassis as well. :)

 

Ok i have no clue what : a .015 "shelf" mated up against the .063 chunk means,

or plumber hinge tube is or what it does but it all sure looks interesting.

 

Thanks again for sharing  :good:


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 09:21 AM

Jaaaak, I will explain.

 

Many of my retro chassis builds have a 063 by 1" by 1" chunk of brass up front.

Since the steel tongue occupies a large part of that space, it leaves just a little room for a chunk of lead in case I want to add some.

If I made that chunk 1" by 2", it would provide a much bigger area for lead.

In the interest of keeping the Center of Gravity as low as possible, instead of making the 063 chunk longer, I'll add a piece of .015 by 1" sheet brass behind the 063 chunk, at ground zero, to place lead on. This lowers the lead weight by .047"

Here is an example, a pablo JK kit retro F1 chassis.  Look at the seam at the rear of the front platform.

The brass sheet I added is .015 and runs way back, to allow the tuner to add weight forward or rearward as desired. 

 

DSC04887.JPG

 

Plumber hinge ?  You are fixin' to find out, Jaaaaak, stay tuned.

IRRA Retro rules allow pan tilt hinges in one direction only.

Steve's rules do not have this restriction.

 

Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :D

 

 

 

 

 


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 11:02 AM

Jaaaaaaaaaaak,

Watch this plumber wire; it snakes into the hinge tube under the uprights.

 

DSC05947.JPG

 

 


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 11:49 AM

Jaaaaaaaaak,

 

Once I start soldering hinges on wires, I plug in the smaller Hakko.

(The big Hakko has a tendency to overheat small joints.)

 

The Weller gun is for tinning wires.

 

One Dremel always has a thin cutting wheel on it, and the other I swap out with sanding drums, etc.

 

DSC05950.JPG

 

 


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#30 Jairus

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 12:27 PM

Nice station!


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#31 Pablo

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 01:49 PM

Hi Jaaaaaaaaaaaaaak

 

Just funning with you; hope this helps........

I installed a pair of crossover .047 connectors to make the plumber wires behave.

 

DSC05952.JPG


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 01:57 PM

Found a pair of batpans that will fit .....

 

DSC05953.JPG

 

 


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#33 chief32s

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 03:47 PM

Like Jaak, I never did get to the bottom of what a plumber hinge did or what it was for. I'm seeing the tilt here and just wondering if those pans will hinge laterally, along the longitudinal axis of the plumber rods? Keep the photos coming Paul, great to see a chassis build in such detail (and with such frequent updates). Many thanks.

Al.


PS. Will post details of my efforts just as soon as I get started. Reworking the X-calibre chassis at the mo, then a little remodelling of the body before it goes on general release and requuires my to build a new vac-former.

Then lucky 13.... I just want it to look mean (and pretty). hehe.
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#34 Pablo

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 06:50 PM

Hi Al :friends:

 

The plumber wires are connected. Getting it perfectly right is NOT easy.

Here is a pic of the port side hinge tubes.....

 

DSC05954.JPG

 

 


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#35 Pablo

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 10:06 PM

.025 Batpans are on, and body pin tubes are in place.

 

The "sacrificial" dummy front axle has done it's job, and has been cut up.  Now the nubs will be unsoldered, and the uprights cleaned up with Soder-Wick.  Which leaves me with four perfectly positioned uprights.

After tumbling, a completed front wheel/axle assembly will be dropped in, using paste flux.

This is the same way I make most of my (non-kit) retro cars.

I have found this to be the absolute best way to obtain a perfect .015 front clearance.

 

DSC05963.JPG

 

 

 


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#36 Pablo

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 11:18 PM

.055 bite bar.  Tilt will be about .015

 

DSC05969.JPG


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#37 Pablo

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 12:57 AM

The front of the batpans needed some bracing, so I added some .032 wires.

 

Brass .063 upstops manage .015 lift for the plumber assembly.

 

Ready for cleanup and tumbling :)

 

DSC05970.JPG


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#38 slotbaker

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 01:31 AM

Looking good Paul.

:good:


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#39 Pablo

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 09:50 AM

Not a work of art, just a workhorse. :)

 

Now, where did I put that doggone Demon motor ? :laugh2:

 

DSC05979.JPG

 

DSC05976.JPG


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#40 Pablo

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 11:46 AM

Broke in the Demon just like the instructions said; 4 V for 1 minute, dry.

8T 48P ARP angled pinion. Piece of cake.

 

DSC05988.JPG

 

 


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#41 Pablo

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 06:24 PM

No flames yet; this is just a practice body.....

 

DSC05996.JPG

 

DSC05993.JPG


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#42 Peter Horvath

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 09:42 PM

I never get tired of watching your builds. Good stuff.


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#43 Pablo

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Posted 09 December 2012 - 11:21 PM

Thanks, Peter. :D
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#44 Champion 507

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 01:31 AM

PABLO SAID:

"Not a work of art, just a workhorse". :)

 

Looks like a work of art to me. Nice job, sir! :good:


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#45 One27ray

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 08:47 AM

Nice work, Pablo! you light the way for the rest of us !
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#46 Pablo

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 07:23 PM

Thanks, Doug and Ray. :D
 
I was pretty stoked to see the Tom Scott #19 Choterrari finish well in the previous proxy.
 
Now it's different... I built, and I own, the #4 car. Nothing to prove, and it's just pure fun. No secrets here.
 
Painting is not my best skill, but I'll present to you my masked flame body anyway. :)
 
DSC06000.JPG
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#47 Jaak

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 04:40 PM

Paul,

 

Thanks for those wonderful pictures of your progress.

 

I still need to find out what some of the "jargon" means like Batpans and Bite bar etc,

but i will get there one day  :victory:

 

Looking at the masking of your body it seems you have the flameworks down too.

 

Thanks for sharing the progress  :good:


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#48 Pablo

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 05:18 PM

Thanks Jaaaaak, here ya go :

 

DSC06008.JPG

 

The batpans are the pans.  The bite bar is the wire that stops the batpans from tilting up more than desired.

 

The flames are done with the standard Parma flame masks.  What do I look like, a masochist ? LOL


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#49 Pablo

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Posted 12 December 2012 - 06:52 PM

Was gonna get funky and put V8 intake stacks on car #4.

 

DSC06003.JPG

 

BUT, I got worried they might scratch the track surface.

 

I found some Mini Velcro at Wal Mart, I'll try and make it work so the stacks can be removed......and replaced........and removed, and ............ :laugh2:   I'll give it a try and see....

 

DSC06017.JPG

 

 


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#50 Jaak

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Posted 13 December 2012 - 08:37 AM

Hehehe well you can call me a masochist or simply a cheapo,

I am trying to cut mine out of Tamiya masking tape after i drawn them on it.

 

Did i already mention i am crap at drawing...i guess that is where the missus comes in handy :sun_bespectacled:

 

The Body looks great Paul  :good:

 

Yesterday night it dropped down to -15 c Celsius and at the moment my garage is -1 c Celsius..

I may need to figure out a way to paint the thing or wait for spring.

 

Thanks for the explanation i get that now except for why they are called batpans and not just side pans.


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