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Tony P. 1969 Plumber's Nightmare Bat Pan car


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 01:58 PM

Finished February 2013:

post-91-0-56164500-1361153979.jpg

 

post-91-0-25795900-1361154010.jpg

 

post-91-0-10051200-1361238942.jpg

 

Here's how it all started:

 

Here is the Tony P. chassis style I plan to build.

 

http://www.theindepe...Pan Plumber.htm

 

The body will be a Tom Andersen McLaren:

 

DSC04314.JPG

 

 

 

 


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#2 Gator Bob

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 02:26 PM

WTG Pablo....  Nice choice !


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#3 macman

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 04:27 PM

& you work TOO???


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#4 Pablo

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 06:54 PM

If I worked as fast as Tony P. I could quit my regular job :laugh2:  He told me he envisions the entire chassis first, then builds it lickety split.  That is natural talent. By comparison, I am merely a copycat and an assembler. :)


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#5 Pablo

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 08:35 PM

Tony's build started with a motor and motor box.

I opened up my box of vintage motor horrors and found some parts that fit.

The Tradeship endbell needs new hardware, and the Mura can needs better magnets.

 

DSC06226.JPG


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 09:15 PM

The arm mikes at .514, so I need a hole of about .535

The Speed FX 16D mags need some shimming to make that happen.......

 

DSC06229.JPG


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#7 Champion 507

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Posted 31 January 2013 - 09:35 PM

Pablo,

 

The McLaren M6A is my all time favorite Can-Am car. Can't wait to see your masterful creation!


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#8 tonyp

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 08:20 AM

I am honored.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#9 Gator Bob

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 11:41 AM

A great winning chassis design and outstanding build documentation.

 

The Gold Standard "how to" for all of Geekdom in 1969.  


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#10 Pablo

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 12:57 PM

I have two things I didn't in 1969:

Better tools and more patience :)

 

Now, where did I put that doggone 60/40 solder ? :laugh2:


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#11 Peter Horvath

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 06:29 PM

Build away, sir!


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 07:03 PM

Thanks, Peter :D

 

Sometimes I think no one is reading or watching my builds, then I go to a race event and meet people who comment "I like watching your builds"   :)   It inspires me to keep going.

 

Also one individual actually said he enjoys my dry humor :laugh2:

 

For those of you who have not followed me for very long, an update:

Sure I like to brag about my builds, but I am not so self-centered as to believe I am special.

I have followed the words and works of the greats of the ages here for better than a decade.

I will never catch up and surpass them.  My desire is to be a good follower.  I enjoy working with math and black magic, and I take my sweet time doing it.

 

Paint has been removed from the Mura can.  Speed FX 16D magnet installation worked well, and the armature is spaced perfectly. I set the good arm aside and installed a temp .533 slug to complete the jig motor with a Tradeship endbell. Later, I will install some modern hardware on the endbell, and paint the can.

DSC06230.JPG

 

The body is made for a 3.75" Wheelbase, .75" Guide Lead, and 3.00" widths.

It will be a challenge to make the Tony P. chassis fit these proportions.

I am the man for the job. :crazy:

 

 

 


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#13 Pablo

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 06:51 PM

Parts gathering phase is done:

 

DSC06233.JPG

 

Driver/interior: Jairus

Motor bracket: REHCO

Drop Arm: REHCO

Jet Flag with vintage Parma clips

Classic replica weight by Duffy

Slick 7 Racing bushings

1/8 axle: PCH

Front rubber: EJ's

Rear donuts: JK # 4

Wheels: Russkit Replicas by dc-65X, Steve O'Keefe, and Electric Dreams

Armature: unknown

Magnets: Speed FX

Endbell: Tradeship

Can: Mura

Spur gear: Cobra 33T 48P

Pinion gear: Sonic 7T  48P


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#14 Don Weaver

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 07:50 PM

Where'd you get the Mura sticker?

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#15 PCH Parts Express

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 08:43 PM

It looks like he removed the original Mura sticker from the can to repaint the can.
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#16 Pablo

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 09:14 PM

Bingo, Scott. :laugh2:

 

I used a blow dryer to warm up the Mura decal, and carefully removed it.

Then I placed it on a piece of double-sided tape. 

 

Here is what I have so far.

 

DSC06235.JPG

 

Next step is gouging out the tube to allow the motor to nest closer to the spur gear......

The Tony P article said 13.5 degree angle.......


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#17 Pablo

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Posted 03 February 2013 - 08:46 PM

Don't know if it's exactly 13.5 degrees, but the gouge I put in the tube should do the trick (I hope) :)

 

DSC06252.JPG

 

 

Correction:  JK donuts are #5, not #4. #4 are same size ID but are much bigger OD.  Sorry.

I used my new technique to slice the donuts for correct size before mounting, and it worked perfectly.

You be the judge:

 

DSC06247.JPG


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#18 Pablo

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 01:43 PM

Used my navigation tool to check for Tony P's suggested motor angle.

13.5 , right on the money. :dance3:

 

DSC06257.JPG

 

DSC06258.JPG


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#19 dc-65x

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 10:13 PM

Hi Pablo,

 

Looks like another really fun project :good:

 

Hmmmmmmm.....................that does look pretty tight around the endbell. Of course it always is with these anglewinders. Just to double check as I've been bit by this, have you tried the motor fit against the axle tube with a brush and brush spring in that endbell? :unsure:


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#20 Pablo

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Posted 04 February 2013 - 11:14 PM

Hi Capt. Rick  :bye:

 

I see what you mean, and I'm glad you are watching my back.

The spacing will be fine.

Post #16 shows it better - the motor in this pic is in the middle of the bracket with regards to fore and aft.

Posts # 17 and 18 have the motor in it's furthest aft position, and I can see how it looks tight.

I double checked and everything looks perfect.

 

Thanks for checking !!!!  I do appreciate it !!!

 

Motor box is done and one inner rail is on. :crazy:

 

Wheeeeeeeeeee !! :laugh2:


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#21 Pablo

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:51 AM

Motor box is done, rear assembly is aligned in the jig, and it's all smooth sailing so far.

 

DSC06261.JPG

 

The article mentions the possibility of using one wire rail, and two brass.  I opted for all three rails .063 brass for 2 reasons; 1. Aesthetics  2.  My car is a shorter WB and narrower width than the article car.  My rear wheels are also narrower. Therefore, I theorize I don't need, and don't have room for, so much stiffness.

DSC06265.JPG

 

DSC06266.JPG

 

DSC06267.JPG

 

DSC06271.JPG


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#22 dc-65x

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 01:03 AM

Okie Dokie Pablo :) . It's looking really good!


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#23 Pablo

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 01:08 AM

Thanks Capt. Rick !!

 

I can hardly wait 'til Tony P. inspects it for correctness. :)


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#24 tonyp

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 08:35 AM

Excellent!


"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#25 John Gorski

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Posted 05 February 2013 - 12:48 PM


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