62 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Thanks for posting that, John Gorski !  Very very cool.

 

Front axle tube is secured, and drop arm is ready.  The article make it all look so easy.  The problem is, the parts are slightly different and the jig and jig wheels are different. Not to mention, my body is of different dimensions. 

 

 

 

At this point, I took a break from the chassis to play with the motor.

I absolutely have to have a motor that runs cool and will last.  The outdated hardware on the old Mura endbell will not provide that.

In previous builds, I have used modern Pro Slot hardware mated to vintage endbells with success.

Here we go again: the posts and nubs on a vintage Mura endbell are shaved down to provide a level playing surface for new Pro Slot Speed FX hardware.

 

 

 

 

[Danny Zona]

I love watching how you build\rebuild cars. It's really cool and has helped me a lot. Thank you my friend.

[Pablo]

Hi Danny ! Welcome to my sickness  

 

The PS hardware installed no problemo, although I had to use Mura spring cups to make it work.

Hoods are perfectly aligned.

 

 

Pre-radiused the Gold Dust brushes, found a pair of new Champion Light red springs, and she started right up at first click of the Wrightway. Always a good sign  Draws 1.2 Amps at 3 Volts and is cool as a cucumber

[Pablo]

Thank Goodness for Dale Ryan's Knob Job; I hit the desired front and rear wheel OD's first try

 

Can paint turned out OK.  Where did I put that doggone Mura sticker ?   

 

Motor runs strong, starts and revs up quick, and has good brakes.  The best feature of this pablo motor is, the brushes and springs are easy to service, readily available and easily replaced.

 

 

Attached Images

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[Pablo]

Drop arm is done.  Don't try this without a mini-torch, kidz.

 

[Champion 507]

Another first class job on another cool project by Pablo.

[Jairus]

I love the smell of burning flux in the morning. 

 

Very nice work Mr. P. 

[Pablo]

Thanks Doug and Jairus !

 

Plumber assembly complete.  It is harder than it looks !

 

 

[Pablo]

Lots of movement, just like Tony did it.

 

[Bill from NH]

That Mini Wheels car will have some competition yet!   Nice job Pablo.

[Pablo]

Thanks Bill !

The article calls for a LOT of movement.  Mine has a little less. I spent a LOT of time making the movements perfect. It was a challenge making it fit the dimensions of the narrower, shorter body.

One thing I learned from this build is, the further to the rear the plumber tube is, the more the front of the pans tilt downward when the rear lifts.

How do you like me now, Tony ?  

Out of the tumbler:

[dc-65x]

Looks great Pablo and that Mississippi water is still doing the trick. Shiny, shiny, shiny!!!

[Champion 507]

You 'da man, dude!

[Pablo]

Thanks Rick and Doug

The lower hole on the 43 year old Mura endbell was a little sloppy, so I filled it with JB Weld and will re-tap it tomorrow.

Twin sets of Marklin Train wires. Motor brace ready.

 

 

 

 

[Champion 507]

Pablo,

Is this your first time to fill a stripped Mura endbell hole with JB Weld or have you done it before?

 

I have a couple of those endbells that need help like that and that would be an easy fix.

 

Please let us know how it turns out.

[Pablo]

Doug, there is no doubt it will work, strong as before.

I will let it harden overnight, then tap it with my Radio Shack mini-twist drill bit set.

[Bill from NH]

You could also drill out the hole & glue in a plug of 3/32 plastic rod. When dry, drill & tap the plastic plug for a 2-56 machine screw. This procedure will also fix a stripped out endbell hardware hole.

[dc-65x]

 Hi Pablo,

 

The JB Weld will should work. If it doesn't here's something that I did that worked. I hope it's OK to share it here

 

 

The chassis is finished and tumbling away to shiny goodness. In the mean time these words of the Good Doktor were ringing in my head........



........as I stripped out the well worn threads in my Mura end bell .

We don't have a large stock of Mura A-can end bells in the SHPBAPSCR museum. In fact many we do have are stripped out . Time for a fix! Here's what I came up with. I used my new Sherline lathe bought with my "Bush Bucks" (tax credit ) and machined some 1/8" diameter by 1/8" long steel inserts. Then I tapped them for 2-56 machine screws:





I set the end bell up in my milling machine, indicated the bearing hole in, offset .200" and plunged an 1/8" endmill down to within 1/32" of breaking out the front of the end bell. This created a nice pocket for the insert to be press fit into:



Here is the insert and machine screw installed:



Here both inserts are pressed in place. The press fit was enough to allow me to tighten the pee out of the screws but I added some "2-Ton" epoxy anyway:



From the outside it looks stock. You can just see the shiny steel thread inside the hole:



This worked out great and it means all our stripped out end bells can be saved. It's a bit time consuming and if I could order a new Mura end bell from the 1968 1/2 Auto World Catalog I would .

As I turn my attention to building up a first generation all Mura made A-can motor more of the Good Doktor's words come to mind:



Yikes! More to come..............

[Champion 507]

To quote Artie Johnson on Laugh-In years ago, "ver-r-r-ry interestink". I'll remember that.

 

How would you fix a white Mabuchi endbell with the same problem?

[tonyp]

Pablo, looking great.

[Pablo]

Thanks Tony !!!

 

 

 

[Mark H]

very nice Paul!

[Peter Horvath]

Wow, Pablo. That thing is killer. Can't wait to see it all finished.

[dc-65x]

Very clean build Pablo. Really nice!

[Pablo]

Thanks Guys !

 

I made a mistake - the drop arm was designed for a Cox flag.  The Jet Flag required WAY too many spacers.  A new Gold Cup with modern braid ended up being a good combination.

 

 

Almost forgot to apply the Mura sticker.  Yes I know it's not orientated correctly.  Oh well.

 

 

I guess if I have my own sandbox now, I need to start keeping better records.

 

Summary:

Armature: unknown

Magnets: Speed FX

Endbell: Mura with Speed FX brush hoods

Brushes: Gold Dust

Pinion: JK 48P 7T

Spur: D & S 32T

Axles: 1/8 PCH

Spacers: Slick 7 steel

Flag:  Gold Cup

Front and rear wheels:  Electric Dreams Russkit reproductions, front 3/4, rear 7/8

Bushings: Slick 7

Chassis: Tony P. replica built by Pablo

Wheelbase: 3 3/4"

Width: 3.0"

Guide Lead: 3/4"

Body: Tom Andersen, paint by Pablo

Driver paint by Jairus Watson

 

Now, if I could just find that doggone body harpoon......