I've got a question for you guys out there. I've been a long time builder of many retro chassis & I've used the Harbor Freight mini cut-off saw with great results. But my original one wore out, so I bought a second saw, except it doesn't seem to work as well. Any recommendations for something better? I've seen the Microlux version & it looks the same as the Harbor Freight unit. Proxxon makes a nice chop saw, but it's 200+ bucks. Any suggestions?
Mini chop saw
#1
Posted 09 February 2013 - 02:44 AM
First Place Loser in the JK Products
International D3 Builders Competition
#2
Posted 09 February 2013 - 05:06 AM
Russ.same here with the harbor freight one. A friend pick up the Microlux one with the micro Mart cut off wheels he was please with it.
#3
Posted 09 February 2013 - 02:57 PM
My dad always said that unless it's for one-time use, "buy the best tools you can afford".
- Duffy likes this
#4
Posted 09 February 2013 - 05:26 PM
My dad always said that unless it's for one-time use, "buy the best tools you can afford".
Well, that doesn't tell me anything.
First Place Loser in the JK Products
International D3 Builders Competition
#5
Posted 09 February 2013 - 05:33 PM
#6
Posted 09 February 2013 - 06:07 PM
Well Russ....
you wrote: "I've seen the Microlux version & it looks the same as the Harbor Freight unit. Proxxon makes a nice chop saw, but it's 200+ bucks. Any suggestions?"
I replied: "buy the best tools you can afford"
That wasn't clear to you, so I shall be more definite. Get the Proxxon if you can afford it.
$198.00 from Amazon. http://www.amazon.co...p/dp/B001AT5H1C
.
#7
Posted 09 February 2013 - 06:36 PM
Paul
#8
Posted 09 February 2013 - 07:23 PM
Thank you, James. How well does the Proxxon cut 1/16" x 1" brass strips & what blades do you use?
First Place Loser in the JK Products
International D3 Builders Competition
#9
Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:36 PM
I have the MicroLux cutoff saw. I got it before you got your first Harbor Freight saw, and I have built nearly 400 frames since I got it. Granted, I only cut tube and piano wire, but it has lasted very well and still works fine.
I would say it is entirely worth its price.
#10
Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:44 PM
Russ, I haven't actually purchased one yet. But I'm giving it serious thought.
Currently I use a steel miter-box that is clamped to the edge of my hobby desk. That and a sharp hacksaw make short work of the 1/16-3/32 brass strip that we use for hardbody chassis here in Oregon. I also use a small (6") Sears bench-top table saw with an abrasive blade to rip strip to width.
For thin brass, up to 1/32, this is an amazing tool... a remainder from my P-lam (formica) installation days. It will cut out a 90 degree "notch".
#11
Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:47 PM
I almost forgot... here is a video review of the Proxxon The guy is a little slow. You may want to skip ahead.
- endbelldrive likes this
#12
Posted 10 February 2013 - 12:21 AM
I have the HF also. Once I tried to cut steel and destroyed the blade, but I got 3 spare blades for $10. No need to buy a complete saw.
http://www.harborfre...eels-42805.html
Because light travels faster than sound, some people appear to be bright until we hear them speaking.
#13
Posted 22 February 2013 - 12:20 PM
My brother uses a Proxxon for his model ship building and loves it.
Back when i was doing a lot of drag chassis I purchased this base for my 4 1/2" angle grinder and used thin blades. While a little larger of a set up it works awesome. I bought the base from Grizzly for like $20 and already had the small angle grinder. Thin wheels for these are cheap and last a long time.
- endbelldrive likes this
Matt Sheldon
Owner - Duffy's SlotCar Raceway (Evans, CO)
#14
Posted 22 February 2013 - 05:16 PM
I agree with James. Positively one of the best tools I have ever owned.............Cuts and trims .032 pans like butter. It has a lot of limitations but does what I need it to.
I think it was used to notch T- Molding when installing in MDF.............I think they are expensive new................
11/4/49-1/23/15
Requiescat in Pace
#15
Posted 24 February 2013 - 05:38 AM
Matt,
What is the model # of the base that holds the grinder? thanks
#16
Posted 24 February 2013 - 11:12 AM
It may not be a replacement for a dedicated mini chop saw, but if you own a Proxxon rotary tool, their drill press stand can work. The motor carrier can be rotated 90 degrees either way, putting the blade perpendicular to the table. All you need do is come up with a fixture to hold the material being cut up off the table. A simple wooden v-block (even better would be metal of course) works well for tubing and rod and I just lay that against the fence. You could make any number of different fixtures for cutting different things and even incorporate "stops" for repeat cutting. For cutting tubing for arm spacers, even a diamond wheel will pass through the tubing like butter, leaving a clean cut and not throwing the work since the wheel has no "teeth".
-john
#17
Posted 02 March 2013 - 07:10 PM
Matt,
What is the model # of the base that holds the grinder? thanks
Albert, it's Grizzly's part number G8183. The price is $27.95 on their website.
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
#18
Posted 05 March 2013 - 12:10 AM
Thanks Bill
#19
Posted 05 March 2013 - 04:54 PM
In the factory, we used a large Abrasive saw to cut a lot of stainless steel untill we got tired of the sparks, smell and noise. We used a water cooled band saw after that. I would look around for a water cooled table saw for cutting tile or stained glass ... a different, but similar box.
I do too much clean-up work when I use just my dremel cut-off....
Larry D. Kelley, MA
retired raceway owner... Raceworld/Ramcat Raceways
racing around Chicago-land
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