11 replies to this topic

[Steve Okeefe]

K&B Bodies

 

 

K&B started early and appears to have made three distinct series of bodies; the first in vacuum-formed clear plastic (the Model-Rama series) for scratch builders, the second in hard plastic for their Challenger series RTRs, and a third again in vacuum-formed clear plastic for their Mabuchi based RTRs. It is unknown whether there were more than two bodies in the third series, and whether any of the third series were available separately.

 

Here is an example (or three) of each series:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[TSR]

The Cobra GT in its "Series 2" version (light metallic blue and with spoiler and more chrome parts) was also available in the "long boxes" but is very scarce.

In the last series with vac-formed bodies, not only the Mako Shark but the Batmobile and the McLaren-Elva were available in either clear or painted versions. The McLaren is not too rare but the others are. All these bodies came in the same box type as the McLaren-Elva RTR, set on a yellow printed tray.
 

[Jocke P]

Steve, EJ has a 1:32 BRM, a Ferrari Berlinetta and a Porsche RSK body as well. All clear plastic.

[deslot27]

When we were kids, and lived close to the old K&B place on Woodruff, we would rumuge through their trash, and found lots of cool stuff. Motors bodies all kinds of stuff.

[strummer]

Question: 

 

In the table shown above, there is no mention of the "injection molded hard plastic" Lotus 30...

 

 

 

...this is the one I got a few weeks ago; runs well enough, needs new tires and I hate the color!     

 

Mark in Oregon

 

 

[Martin]

Mark, I hated the plastic color too. I painted mine green. You will love it.

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[TSR]

Mark Mugnai,
the K&B Lotus was also molded in green, but is more difficult to find than the more common orange.
You can see one on this rather bad picture alongside the orange model.



 

[strummer]

Wow Martin, that looks terrific!

And yes guys, it looks way better in green. I have a couple of Aurora 1/32 controllers in that same awful reddish- orange color...yech!

The yellow can motor is very quick and runs really well.

The wheels are held in place by some sort of split-collar set up I haven't seen before: how does one go about removing the wheels with this type of system?

Thanks!

Mark in Oregon

[Martin]

If you can wait Mark I will walk you trough it when I have parts in hand.

 

If you want to try, know this, there is a tapered hole in the center of the wheel. When you tighten the nut on the tapered wheel collet it is forced to close down and grip the axle. Its a great design, until it jams. But it grips well and its the best way to keep axle and wheel running true to each other.

 

Step 1- back the nut off,just half a turn . step 2 tap the nut towards the wheel to release. Alternatively you can tap the wheel towards the nut if nut is well supported.

  Its like any collet they can get jammed. But a tap of the nut in the correct direction (towards the wheel) and bit of WD40 would not be a bad thing as well. The trick really is finding a tool that will get in there to take the first wheel off. A small vise with a small wrench will support the first (loosened)nut then you can tap on the outside of the wheel with a flat plate so as not to damage the face of the wheel.

 

This is easy once you have done it. Hope this is not too confusing. I will send some pics if you are not sure.

 

 

 

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[strummer]

If you can wait Mark I will walk you trough it when I have parts in hand.

 

If you want to try, know this, there is a tapered hole in the center of the wheel. When you tighten the nut on the tapered wheel collet it is forced to close down and grip the axle. Its a great design, until it jams. But it grips well and its the best way to keep axle and wheel running true to each other.

 

Step 1- back the nut off,just half a turn . step 2 tap the nut towards the wheel to release. Alternatively you can tap the wheel towards the nut if nut is well supported.

  Its like any collet they can get jammed. But a tap of the nut in the correct direction (towards the wheel) and bit of WD40 would not be a bad thing as well. The trick really is finding a tool that will get in there to take the first wheel off. A small vise with a small wrench will support the first (loosened)nut then you can tap on the outside of the wheel with a flat plate so as not to damage the face of the wheel.

 

This is easy once you have done it. Hope this is not too confusing. I will send some pics if you are not sure.

 

 

 

.

 

    ...umm...I think I'll wait! 

 

I'm in no rush, so if/when you get a chance to post some step-by-step photos, that would be most appreciated.

 

Thanks Martin.

 

I recall the talented Chris Walker mentioned this system on his Lola T-70 project on the Home Racing World forum...

 

Mark in Oregon

 

PS: By the way, one Brad Blohm came through yet again (windscreen)... 

 

[Martin]

The windshield looks great, as we have come to appreciate from Brad.

I recently bought these 5 Lotus's, two of which are the K&B.

I will have to get in touch with Brad also.

I started to work on the Tamiya first. I do not have but one Lora T70 Tamiya slot car. So this Lotus would be a nice stable mate.

Was disappointed to find out the windshield from the Tamiya Lotus comes up short.

I wonder if Brad makes one for this car?

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[strummer]

The windshield looks great, as we have come to appreciate from Brad.

I recently bought these 5 Lotus's, two of which are the K&B.

I will have to get in touch with Brad also.

I started to work on the Tamiya first. I do not have but one Lora T70 Tamiya slot car. So this Lotus would be a nice stable mate.

Was disappointed to find out the windshield from the Tamiya Lotus comes up short.

I wonder if Brad makes one for this car?

 

Hi Martin

 

Well (as you probably already know) one of the great things about working with Brad is that if he doesn't have the part(s) already, he seems willing to look into making it in the future.

 

I am in need of the lower body sections for the Cox BRM (here is the windscreen I got from him) and he said he'd try to come up with the necessary parts needed to make some duplicates for me. 

 

 

Once again, we're lucky to have people like Brad out there...

 

Mark in Oregon