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Drag car scratchbuilding 101?


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#1 Tim Neja

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 06:30 PM

I'm interested in scratch building some drag cars----where is a good place to look for some examples??  Is ground clearance important?  How about the length of the wheelie bars??  I'm planning on mostly in-line super 16D motors-- to go bracket racing.  Where do I find the rules for various class's as well??
Thanks
Tim


She's real fine, my 409!!!




#2 macman

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 07:02 PM

Ask Foamy...

 

Also look for a DRS-45 Bracket-master kit... Great place to start for an inline drag car.

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#3 Don Weaver

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 07:59 PM

For the best info, check out the Kahale & Martin website and archives. Also, Bracket 500 has good info.....

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#4 Pablo

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 08:23 PM

DRS Drag Racing Specialties How To info:

http://www.slotcar.com/

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#5 Champion 507

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 10:04 PM

Do a search on "drag car" in the "1970 to now" slot car section of ebay. Also check completed items too. Lots and lots of pics of cars, motors and chassis.


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#6 Tim Neja

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Posted 09 March 2013 - 10:58 PM

Thanks guys--- I"ve contacted Foamy---there's a big race at BPR next weekend--I'll head down there with my calipers and start asking questions!! I'm planning on A/FX  cars--SS Cars and Super Gas cars from the 60's. I raced in the 60's and early 70's in Jr Stock and SS in NHRA- so that's the era I'm planning to replicate.

T


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#7 Gator Bob

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 12:53 PM

http://club400.net/


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#8 Tim Neja

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Posted 10 March 2013 - 01:22 PM

After seeing some pics--I'll get down to BPR and see some cars--meet up with FOamy to get his take.  But I'll definitely scratchbuild some cars--  60's SS A/FX and Jr Stock cars!  Maybe some "old school" Gassers!!  

Thanks
T


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#9 Tim Neja

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 06:41 PM

Well---not exactly "Scratch building" because I used a Parma production "Edge" drag chassis.  But I did put together two new cars to race with!! Tried the 57 "Super Gas" car out this morning and she ran very well with some help from John at BPR!  Ran 1.201--1.202--and 1.204 on a 1.200 index!! That's pretty good I think.  That's with a Falcon motor geared 9/30 and 1 1/16 tall tires!  

I just finished the Camaro-- put a 10/30 on it otherwise--exactly the same setup.  

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She's real fine, my 409!!!

#10 Tim Neja

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 06:43 PM

Thanks for the suggestions and help guys!! Now I WILL scratch build some more cars!!  I've got the basics down---now find some more  bodies--and start soldering!!

 

BTW---the "wheelie" bars REALLY make a difference.  The first few runs the car ran MID 1.3's--- then-- I soldered in the "wheelie" bars to a correct adjusted height!! That's when the car went the 3  1.20's!!!   AND---it picked up 6 mph from low 41's to the mid 47's!!

  :)


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#11 Joe Mig

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 06:58 AM

! Now I WILL scratch build some more cars!!  
 
BTW---the "wheelie" bars REALLY make a difference.  The first few runs the car ran MID 1.3's--- then-- I soldered in the "wheelie" bars to a correct adjusted height!!
  :)


The scratch builds are a breez to build just get the right motor bracket for the wheel size. You are going too use.

If I were you I'd put better wheelie wheels on your two new cars it will be even better.
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#12 Tim Neja

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Posted 20 March 2013 - 10:46 PM

There are wheelie wheels on the cars Joe---and I've started a scratch build angelwinder 53 Corvette roadster Gasser!! A Warmack anglewinder bracket for a TSR motor and a simple guide. Two rails of .062 and 4" long wheelie bars!  Should look cool going down the track!! Now--just got to go pick up some paint for these plastic bodies.


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#13 Joe Mig

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 05:14 AM

I was refuring to the Parma Edge chassis and not using the so called wheels that come with the car. Put some DRS wheelie wheels on it or ones like them if you did not already .
Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

"Drive it like you're in it!!!"

"If everything feels under control... you are not going fast enough!"

Some people are like Slinkies... they're really good for nothing... but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

#14 Tim Neja

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 11:03 AM

NO wheels came with the chassis-- I used the DRS wheels!! :) :)   Thanks T


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#15 PCH Parts Express

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 12:38 PM

An extra long tech block, and or an extra long chassis jig is a good thing(s) to have when setting up the wheelie wheels.  


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#16 Tim Neja

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Posted 21 March 2013 - 12:57 PM

An extra long tech block, and or an extra long chassis jig is a good thing(s) to have when setting up the wheelie wheels.  

Absolutely!!! It's a necessity!  I used a tech block--with a single layer of masking tape on the end to set the wheelie wheels on while the car was setting on the tech block.  Then soldered the wheels in place--worked perfectly!! The car went from runing 1.460's and NOT very consistant-- to running 12.00's VERY consistantly with just setting the wheelie wheels in the correct position!!  IT also picked up 4 to 5 mph over no wheelie wheels.  So a definite must when drag racing is to get your wheels aligned at the right height!!


She's real fine, my 409!!!

#17 Steve Boggs

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Posted 06 April 2013 - 03:02 AM

If you really want to scratchbuild a competitive Drag Chassis with a minimum of hassle, get one of the T/R, or JDS wire kits that already have the motor box and front end laid out so that all you have to do is add wire to determine the stiffness of the car. I would also highly recommend running the motor in a sidewinder location and using a lexan body.

 

For a typical lexan bodied pro Stock style of car, the wheelbase will be around 5 inches. With this in mind, I want the motor box to be the working center of the car. If the motor box is 1 1/4 from the axle to the front brace, then the distance from the front brace to the guide tongue should  be 3 3/4 inches. Then, your working rail length from the front of the motor box to the guide tongue is the same distance as the length from the  axle to the wheelie bar.

 

Let's say you built this car, and with a 16D motor it weighs 100 grams just for a number. Find the balance point of the completed car. This is usually just in front of the motor. This is where you want to place your rear body mount. For more flex, move it 1/4" forward. For a stiffer car, move it 1/4" back, or toward the motor.

 

If you are running a 16D motor, to Grp12, a .250 wide Tuna tire is all you will need. 14/40-44 gearing is a good place to start as well. If the car is really picky to gluing, I would make it a little stiffer. If it hops from 3/4 track to the finish, it needs stiffened. try changing the .047 rail for a .055.

 

Ok, here's the cheat sheet. .055 lower wheelie bar rail, .047 uppers. .055 main rails, (2) on the front, with a .047 center rail. :D


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#18 Steve Boggs

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 10:38 AM

EDIT that above to read: If the length from the axle to guide tongue is 5 inches, then the distance from the front of the motor box to the wheelie bar should also be 5 inches.


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#19 Tim Neja

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Posted 08 June 2013 - 03:37 PM

Hey Steve,

Many of the body mounts I've seen are at the extreme back of the chassis---behind the rear tires!! Why do I want it in front of the motor? I haven't experienced enough to know what's going on with drag cars!! I may go to BPR next week to play with mine.  But curious about the dynamics.  Thanks for your suggestions--I'll be building more cars in the future.

Tim


She's real fine, my 409!!!





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