11 replies to this topic

[David Rees]

When re braiding a track what is the best way to apply the contact adhesive to the braid and to the track reccess  ?

[Rick]

Well David, I used to use a sqeeze ketchup bottle with an angled slice on the end to apply the glue in the channel and then use a roller on the braid laid out on craft paper on two or three tables..............If you try to use the braid wound around a bucket or something, if you are not careful, it will kink when you stop and you have to be careful to removed the kink when you lay the braid down......................

[Zippity]

Better still, forget using Elephant snot and use 3M Transfer Tape instead

 

It is much easier and cleaner to apply.

[Chevpower454]

I agree with Zippity. Forget about the contact cement. Use the 2 sided tape. I used it on my wood oval with great results. No mess or fumes either. Just make sure the tape gets pushed down good. I think I used a screwdriver handle to rub the tape down.

[Paul Jurczyszyn]

Transfer tape come up if you apply track spray glue. I used it on my trioval and it worked ok till I sprayed my traction glue down.
Ketchup bottle it the way to go trust me.
Paul

[Zippity]

Transfer tape come up if you apply track spray glue. I used it on my trioval and it worked ok till I sprayed my traction glue down.
Ketchup bottle it the way to go trust me.
Paul

 

 

Paul,

 

You must have done something wrong when you laid the tape the first time

 

Transfer Tape is highly resistant to most thinners and glues. Or else you used the wrong tape.

 

The new braid has to be meticulously cleaned before being laid the first time to remove all traces of machine oil that it contains from its original manufacture stages.

 

 

Ron

[David Rees]

Re - transfer tap ?   If the track recess is in some places not 100% smooth wouldn't this cause a bonding problem ?
If so i am thinking the contact  adhesive would be better in this situation .

[Paul Jurczyszyn]

All brade was clean and laid according to the directions, were lifting occurred was in ever turn. The straights held.
Paul

[Wizard Of Iz]

Stay with Original Wellwood Contact Cement. Clean the braid with lacquer thinner.

We used a Glue-Bot to apply the glue. I'd post a picture if I wasn't on my iPhone

[Paul Jurczyszyn]

I agree.

[Wizard Of Iz]

Make sure that the Weldwood is the original version, not the gel version.

 

 

 

 

Here's a picture of a glu-bot.  Very handy for putting down a nice bead of glue the exact width of the braid bed.

 

[CruzinBob]

Here are some tips.

 

Slot Car Corner can help with their tools and how to articles.  http://www.slotcarcorner.com/ .

 

I learned to build mostly from Hasse Nilsson but Monty Ohren showed me quite alot also.  Thank you Monty and Bonnie and may you both be cradled in His arms

 

Here's a braid roller barrel constructed by Monty maybe 15+ years ago.  He gave it to me when he decided to give up track building and go full bore motor building.

 

 

 

Sometime in the 90's Monty made a glue applicator for applying contact cement to both sides of the slot.  At the same time it smoothed the glue creating an even flow.  He let me borrow it a few times and WOW!  He lent it to someone and never got it back - wasn't me!  A close racing buddy here made these for me about 3 months ago.  These are for 5/8" wide braid stance that I use mostly on 1/32 & 1/43 tracks.  Standard commercial is 3/4".

 

 

And here's a tool a 1:1 drag racing chassis builder in Chandler, AZ made for me in 1994.  It's worked on about 150 tracks