Posted 12 April 2013 - 02:34 PM
Posted 12 April 2013 - 06:09 PM
A choke can be added to the end of the white controller wire then the choke is connected to the track. If you want one permanently added to the controller your best bet is to call Howard at Third Eye.
A basic choke is made out of magnet wire (not sure of the size) wrapped around a magnet or a metal electrical conduit with lead wire size wire (10 gauge I think) with 6 posts seperated in 3 foot intervals. The difference between the two style chokes is how the resistence is measured. Unfortunately I am not qualified enough to get into the technical aspects of the two styles but I'm sure someone who is will chime in.
A motor is only as fast as the chassis it's in.
Posted 23 May 2013 - 09:17 PM
Formerly of SARN
Yes, I am a sarcastic, smart-azz, know-it-all old bastard of a genius.
What is old is new again... Retro... Gotta love it !!!
"May all your inlines be Retro, my son."
The Englelman: a truly superior design.
Posted 23 May 2013 - 11:51 PM
Making one in a seperate box is not difficult . That's what i did . I just plug my controller on to it when i race G7.
Do you want details on how i built mine ?
Posted 24 May 2013 - 08:20 AM
Dennis; if you are running anything besides a Eurosport or a gp 7 wing car you really do not need a choke.
Hmmm, it could make a difference on a flat track like the one they have at the "Cave" in Yorba Linda,Ca.
Mike Kravitz hooked one up on my controller in the 5th heat and it really smoothed things out. This was in LMP.
Just my two cents worth.
Posted 24 May 2013 - 09:34 AM
On the right is a picture of a wire choke addition done by Howard himself:
Posted 24 May 2013 - 09:42 AM
Above photo taken by Tony Moore at the 2013 USRA Nats, Speedzone Raceway, Mount Holley, NJ
Thanks for the photography, Tony. Your pics are worth a lot more than the proverbial "thousand words".
Posted 24 May 2013 - 11:05 AM
Bill- Your chokes are the BEST!
Don't DQ me for having the wrong SHADE of orange on my McLaren... after all, it's ONLY a toy car!!!
Posted 24 May 2013 - 11:33 AM
Yup, the one on the right is mine and I love it. Bill's choke is a really fine design. I can also use the wire choke in conjunction with the electronic choke which works very well with F1 eurosport. The wire choke has 18 feet. I ran most of the eurosport race at Speedzone using 12 feet. For most GT12 racing in the NORCAL series, I use 9-12 feet.
Posted 24 May 2013 - 12:01 PM
The problem is , the really nice conversion on the 3rd eye requires hacking into the controller itself, which I am sure will "void the warranty" on a very pricey unit if done by a third party.
The conversion on the left of a Carsteen controller, allows complete restoration to factory specs and Steen has no problem with the addition of a wire choke.
Posted 24 May 2013 - 05:58 PM
Zip, I somehow remember you waxing ecstatic about a wire choke you acquired some years back. Anyhow, the theory is a wire coil "delays" current
increase by self inductance which lasts only as long as voltage to the car is increasing. That is, only when the car is accelerating. The electronic choke reduces voltage
and current at all times. I think controller makers are attempting to simulate the wire choke using electronics but racers continue to use wire. A photo of the
drivers panel in eurosport races in this part of the world would illustrate this quite nicely.
Posted 24 May 2013 - 06:12 PM
I somehow remember you waxing ecstatic about a wire choke you acquired some years back
Indeed I did Bill, indeed I did.
I have controllers with both types of chokes and I know which I prefer
I just wanted to see someone explain here the two different choke principles and thus clean up any misconceptions
Wellington Slot Car Club home page
Flat Track = where you actually have to let go of the trigger to navigate it.
Posted 24 May 2013 - 07:53 PM
So, are the misconceptions cleaned up? Racers spend big bucks for an electronic controller and still come to me to cobble up a wire choke.
What's wrong with this picture?