25 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Finished July 2013:

 

Here's where it all started:

Not sure what car I'll put this in yet.

I've been experimenting with ways to install BB's. The can was easy, a 5mm using a 5mm drill bit.

But these doggone Champion endbells   I don't know what oddball bushing they were designed for, but they are a challenge. I think I found a method that works for me. .250 OD brass tubing fits perfectly inside the bushing housing of the EB. So I cut a piece about 3mm long. Then I discovered a 5mm BB fits perfectly tight inside .220 OD brass tubing if it is reamed a little, then press the BB in with a vice.  Then solder the tubes together, and JB Weld the entire assembly to the EB.

[SlotStox#53]

Sounds like you've found a good way to do it Pablo don't know if there's a specific size for these endbells but noted your method down for future reference

[havlicek]

These are the only end bells I've found that you can install a bearing in without altering the end bell Pablo

 

1) use a tapered ream until the bearing can JUST be tapped into the square end of a piece of 1/4" tubing

2) I prefer to use a flanged bearing because the flange will keep the bearing straight (enough) when the bearing flange bottoms out on the square end of the tube.  I prefer also to have the bearing be a tight fit.  The tube becomes thin enough by reaming it that it will bulge when the bearing is tapped into it

3) After the bearing is fully seated, I chuck the tube with the bearing it it and turn the drill while playing a piece of sandpaper against it, watching as the "bulge" starts to get sanded flat...AND the flange is getting sanded flush with the tube OD

4) Keep sanding and testing until the bearing and tube are a tight "snap-fit"

5) Cut the bearing and tube a slight bit long

6) Install the bearing and rough cut tube on a spare motor shaft and carefully play a grinding disk against the bearing, spinning the bearing and grinding down the excess length until the tube is now flush on both ends

 

You can get an excellent no-slip fit this way and I've done it many many times with no problems.

 

-john

[Pablo]

Paul, the hole in the EB is designed for something about 6.43mm and the .250 tube mikes about 6.38mm.

 

John,

So you are using a 6mm BB in .250 tube and reaming it out from about 5.6mm to 6.0 mm ?

That was one of the first things I tried but my reamer keeps digging in instead of reaming.

 

When you say "square end of tubing" it confuses me ???

[havlicek]

Hi Pablo,

 

     Yes, a 6mm bearing.  I carefully chuck the tubing in a drill so as not to crush it.  Then I start playing a tapered ream into the spinning tube.  It takes only a short while to get the tube opened up enough so that when you press on a bearing with the tube...it starts to "stick", but won't go all the way in.  That kind of fit will easily bulge the tube when you tap the bearing in.  I place the bearing on my work surface (flange down of course) and then hold the reamed-out tube on it while I gently tap the other end of the tube until it bottoms out on the bearing's flange.

 

When I say "square end", I always make a fresh cut on the tubing to be sure it's as close to square as I can get it. (the cut end is 90 degrees to the longitudinal).  This assures that the bearing will be as close as is necessary (and possible) to properly situated when installed in the end bell.

 

-john

[Pablo]

Got it.  Thanks !  I'll keep trying to perfect it.

What do you use to secure the tube in the EB ?

[havlicek]

Hi Pablo,

 

Nothing at all is required to secure the bearing in the tube...or the finished sleeved-bearing the end bell.  That's the beauty of this system.  Bulging the tube insures a really tight fit and I've never had one come apart.  Only taking down the OD of the bearing/tube assembly enough for a "snap-fit" into the end bell does the same.  No chemical bonding is necessary and anyway, nothing really works well to bond to the end bell plastic...not CA or Locktite, nor epoxy.  Plus you avoid accidentally getting any glue into the bearing.  When I first tried all this some years ago, I used acid and solder to make sure the connection between the bearing and tube were solid, but that whole mess has turned out to be completely unnecesary.

 

-john

[Gator Bob]

Just a passing thought ...

 

if the ring (tube) fits 'just right' put a 'teenie tiny' out of round egg to it ... scrip it in the bell.. w/'teenie' bit 'o loctite. When that 'sets-up' the BB should be a 'slight' press-in.

 

jus sayin.

[Gator Bob]

Just a passing thought ...

 

if the ring (tube) fits 'just right' put a 'teenie tiny' out of round egg to it ... scrip it in the bell.. w/'teenie' bit 'o loctite. When that 'sets-up' the BB should be a 'slight' press-in.

 

jus sayin.

 

Oh ... John just said that or like that ... lol

 

Oops.

[Hworth08]

IIRC, Champion used the same ball bearing that is used in a 26D motor. It wasn't a good bearing, fine in a stock 26D but higher RPM damaged them.

 

Several frames got twisted into useless heaps when a person tried to drill out the motor bracket to hold the endbell. Common cure was to use a Mura endbell on built motors.

[Pablo]

I like that method better, John, thanks for walking me through it !   

[Gator Bob]

Just a passing thought ...

 

if the ring (tube) fits 'just right' put a 'teenie tiny' out of round egg to it ... scrip it in the bell.. w/'teenie' bit 'o loctite. When that 'sets-up' the BB should be a 'slight' press-in.

 

jus sayin.

 Or tin it ... to build up the OD and shrink the ID

[Pablo]

Thanks Bob, if the JB Weld does not hold tight, I will try that.

[Gator Bob]

What arm ya thinkin?

[Pablo]

  Maybe a Pro Slot   I found a custom PS EB drive arm on Ebay for a good price. Same as I used on my latest Cukras Jaildoor Coupe. 60T of 28

Thanks for asking  

[Pablo]

Misplaced my doggone camera, hope to have it back in a few days.

Meantime, I can only brag through words

Hope you have fun visualizing this like a blind man:

 

Mabuchi can with Pro Slot ball bearing, painted with 5 coats of black Rustoleum, baked on.

ProSlot D can magnets, freshly zapped by Hershman, shimmed to provide a hole of .535 using my Goat Boy slug.

Champion endbell with ProSlot ball bearing and modern Speed FX brush hardware, Gold Dust brushes, Champion Light springs.

Custom wound endbell drive ProSlot armature 60/28.

She started right up at low power and draws 1.3 amps at 3 volts.

Really screams with some power, like a nice modern S16D.

Don't know what I'm going to put this in yet.

My job here is done.  

[SlotStox#53]

The sound of the motor specs and performance make up for the lack of visuals

All in all a very tasty combo of modern/vintage components that come together very nicely !!

With the modern brush hardware ,would they fit/work as good on 26D endbells?

[Pablo]

Thanks Paul.

I have not tried this hardware on 26D's yet.

No reason why it could not be made to work.

All you need is a flat deck and a Radio Shack twist drill bit set.

Why don't you try it and let us know ?

[Champion 507]

I did this once. It had 2 "right side" Parma brush hoods on a 26D.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SlotStox#53]

Will definitely give it a try Pablo and thanks for showing the hardware in place Doug . Really silly question but why use two right side hoods?

[Champion 507]

Paul, because I wanted to give the endbell a more traditional look. Double overhead brush hoods were not common until 40 years (or so) later. Endbells had what we now call over and under brush hoods. Paul, it's not a silly question if you don't know the answer. If you had known the answer, you wouldn't have asked the question.   Carry on, dude.

[Pablo]

Im my case, Paul, I used two of the same side hoods because it's just the way the existing holes match up.

The ones I have modified in this manner always seem to have one of the two holes right where it needs to be.

Simply a matter of using what fits.

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks for the info Doug & Pablo , got a bunch of gifted motor parts set to wing their across the pond ,with a lot of brush hoods & springs etc.

Building my parts box up still and will soon start tackling the motor spares department of the box !!

[Pablo]

 

[SlotStox#53]

That is one pretty looking motor Pablo , good job