18 replies to this topic

[SlotStox#53]

Hi,

I would like to build a few drag cars and was looking for some info on the type of basic specs for the different classes of cars being raced.

What chassis,motor etc type of thing .

Thanks

-Paul

[idare2bdul]

The majority of Drag racing is bracket racing. This is a handicap type start so no one kind of car or chassis is dominant.

I'd suggest starting with a Parma Edge Car as a starter. 

You can change the body to one from a model kit without too much effort. 

Your other option would be to choose a chassis( I prefer either WRP or JDs for their ease of assembly and build the car of your choice. Try http://bracket500.com/ for more information. For heads up racing check your local track.

[Bill from NH]

Paul, as Mike says above, the Bracket 500 site has some good instructional links on various aspects of slot car drag racing.

[Pablo]

http://www.slotcar.com/

[SlotStox#53]

Thanks everyone for the links and info

Will have a good read through and go from there, definitely like the look of the WRP & JDS kits .

[macman]

Building a WRP now... seems to be stamped un-plated steel; not the quality I used to find in the laser-cut spring steel DRS kits. This build will end up as 3 rails of .055 on each side, to prevent unwanted flex... kind of what we have been doing in retro, only this is 6.25" wb to fit specific body.  Work in progress...

[idare2bdul]

Good start but you probably don't need to stiffen it up. If you had wanted a stiff chassis drag racers often use stainless tubing. What motor. tire size and body choice you are using can make a big difference. A lot of these chassis get used with model car bodies mounted to them but Lexan or butrate works too. Remember to float the back body mount to avoid handling problems.

[Joe Mig]

Most of the time I use the body to stiffen it up a bit.
Just incase you get bit by the drag bug you might want one of these.
http://slotblog.net/...you-go-joe-mig/

[macman]

Closer to finished... still have to add body mounts, front wheels & wheelie bar, am setup to make both front & rear mounts floating. Should I make front solid? Body will be lexan.

Chassis kit is WRP-06; 1 1/16 to 1 3/16 tires... Motor choice is open, many options, from f-7 up to gp 12 c-can.

I can add third rail all way back to wheelie bar, but don't know if I need it.

I will be running on both a 1000' & 1/4 mile track with 46 tooth crown gear... a little unsure about pinion, since I used to base all drag gearing on early '90s spec 4:1, but that doesn't seem to always hold up today. Thinking along lines of starting with H7 & 12 tooth pinion.

[Foamy]

Big pinions. 15 and up. Solid front body mounts, floating rear. A Deathstar motor should go like 1.2 second or less.

A Super 16 should be under 1 second. Model bodies you can add a tenth or so. Add weight to run an Index time, or to use less glue for Bracket racing. . .

[macman]

Mostly finished, needs lead-wire& wheelie bar wheels, body is in background.

[Rick]

I have been looking for some good details on the slip joint fueler chassis but they are very confusing. Details show one thing, real thing something totally different. No length numbers anywhere? Like it's a big secret?...............

[macman]

Rick:

From what I can see, looks to be about 4 to 4.5" to joint...

Sure wish you were consistently making Drag rear brackets, the ones out there are too thin CRAP!!!

BYW, what is the availability of your drag length jig???

[Joe Mig]

Rick:

BYW, what is the availability of your drag length jig???

Oh never mind.
The one he did for me is 16 inches long you could open the link on post #8.

[Foamy]

Slipjoint dragsters. No two people make them the same.

 

Brackets. Why do you think they too thin? We have been using them for about 15 years. . .

[macman]

Foamy, I guess I am just used to Retro brackets, & even at .050 thick, they need bracing... the WRP brass brackets I have seen are thinner than this... the same thickness as the stainless ones. I would think that since the brass is more malleable than stainless, it should be thicker???

[Tim Neja]

All the drag car does is go straight--don't think the bracket is that big of a deal.  I've scratch built several cars with NO bracket-- anglewinders and sidewinders don't even need a bracket. FWIW

T

[macman]

Well this chassis is pretty much finished... Won the money at our Saturday brackets last night. Among other runs, turned a .951 on a .950 dial-in... not bad for an old fart. Chassis is a retro style, 3 rails of .055 soldered at front & rear, this car does not like glue! Running a gp 15 I built in summer of '94 geared 13/52 & pretty consistent...Might be faster with a different body, but it was specifically designed for the DRS Silverado body I am running on it. It hooks up so well, I may  try a no-bar of the same general lines to go under the other body like this I have. The only other thing I have to do to it is change the pin tubes to steel tubing instead of brass. Track is SlotCar Cave of Rock Hill SC's 1000'.

[SlotStox#53]

Nice looking chassis Ben Great to hear it's performing well Great bit of bracket racing .