15 replies to this topic

[LolaGT]

Moderator - please move to the appropriate forum if necessary.

 

Hello all,

 

I've been reading about routing my own track for awhile now, and thanks to Mr. Ogilvie among others I'm going to try it this summer.

 

According to the threads I've been reading, it's reasonably straightforward, even with a bank or two.

 

The problem is I'm thinking about how to build a chicane or some esses into my track, and I can't find any good info on how to do this.

 

Nothing too wacky, just something down the front straight to break up the monotony a bit.

 

Would anyone have any ideas on how to do this, or shouldn't I bother?

 

Thank you,

LolaGT

[Mach9]

I'm interested in hearing from the experts as well Ken. I have semi plans to build an Orange replica and want to include the esses. Will be lurking.

[MSwiss]

I had an engineer friend/racer draw up some patterns on his cad.

They printed at 1/1 scale, on 8 1/2" x 11" paper, with connecting marks.

I taped them on to a long pc. of 1/2" MDF scrap, cut out the pattern with a sabre saw.

I did a little sanding and used the pattern, with a standard round plate on my router, to cut the slots.

To "hand draw" the esses, you can use a piece of 1/8" masonite, laying it on it's side, and screwing it to a 2 X 4, bowing it, to get your desired amount of curve/bend.

You, of course, would flip it over to go in the other direction.

P.S.- this is just to draw it . You wouldn't want to route off of the bowed masonite / fiberboard.

[swodem]

These days why not just get it drawn in CaD, and have the slots and external shape (but not the braid recess) all done on a CNC Router. Would all be done in a morning, then do the braid recess by hand using the slot as a guide


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[MSwiss]

In the case of Mach 9 doing an Orange replica, I have my doubts you could get the bank right on the first try, CNC routing it.

[MarkH]

What kind of cars are you running?

Do you have a layout already in mind?

Can we see a picture of your thoughts with the layout?

[Mike Patterson]

In the case of Mach 9 doing an Orange replica, I have my doubts you could get the bank right on the first try, CNC routing it.

It's just math. If you want, I can try to scan the relevant material out of my old drafting manual.

[MSwiss]

What do you use for a # on the banking, when the amount of banking varies?

 

Even if you had a track to measure, how many spots would you measure?

 

At the very least, you would cut the bank with extra material, and trim as necessary, rather than then try to hit it dead on and come up short.

[Mach9]

It's just math. If you want, I can try to scan the relevant material out of my old drafting manual.

 

I would like to see what you have. Always eager to learn something new. Add in the additional variable of elliptical routing and there's no way I would try it. I'm sure somebody that's actually smart could do it, but not me!

[Mike Patterson]

Mack, the formula is commonly used for figuring a conical shape as used in sheet metal duct work. Ask Google. Everybody else does!

 

If you can't find anything, PM me, and I'll scan the material.

[Mach9]

   Not necessary Mike. Sounds like the same math that Steve talked about in the other thread on cutting/pulling banks. I was able to make a small paper cone that way and it actually came out the right size. Thanks.

[Ramcatlarry]

Two different ideas.  Esses are equal and parallel.  Mikes guide works great and always repeatable .  Chicanes are a different story since EACH lane would need a unique guide.  Most chianes are  (OR SHOULD be) done (if at all) at a slow corner or corkscrew combination since collsions are GOING to happen - never in the middle of a straighaway.  Chicanes are replica of different driving lines - entering or exiting a corner - not just random jogs to knerf your competitor.

 

Several of the homeset club tracks have different chicane locations and combinations and the DO add to the things to plan for in driving each lane - not really my idea of 'better racing' .....

[LolaGT]

 

Two different ideas.  Esses are equal and parallel.  Mikes guide works great and always repeatable .  Chicanes are a different story since EACH lane would need a unique guide.  Most chianes are  (OR SHOULD be) done (if at all) at a slow corner or corkscrew combination since collsions are GOING to happen - never in the middle of a straighaway.  Chicanes are replica of different driving lines - entering or exiting a corner - not just random jogs to knerf your competitor.

 

Several of the homeset club tracks have different chicane locations and combinations and the DO add to the things to plan for in driving each lane - not really my idea of 'better racing' .....

 

I chose both chicanes and esses because Mr. Ogilvie made routing straights and curves so easy, and lots of other people wrote about making banks of various sorts, but I never saw anyone saying anything anywhere about making either of them.

 

Besides, I was looking at photos of some of the routed tracks others made, with differing driving lines entering corners like Mr. Kelly mentions. I couldn't figure out how those unique lanes were laid out and routed. I know it's part of racing, but I'm not big on nerfing people's cars off the track at random times. Must be the car collector in me.

 

Wife and I were experimenting with our Revell track we set up in sort of a 'lazy 8', with a short ess at the exit of the short straightaway right before the right turn to an underpass. It did make things a little more interesting to drive without making the track a 'bowl of spaghetti'.

 

Ken

[anarot]

There are different ways to do it. A google search will be your freind. I found the bent stick method works well for small jobs. 

[Steve Ogilvie]

All the tracks we built were first drafted up by myself, Brian or Donn Bryans. All drawn to scale and then we would do the math and calculate the circumference and radius of every corner and straight piece. And an S turn if the track had one.Then every piece got cut exactly to plan, joined together as much as possible, routed and then bent up and joined together. With the amount of tracks we built (when we built and sold bare wood tracks we built one track a week), there was no time for guesswork. Some tracks needed a little adjustment to main straight length to make them fit better, so if it was a new design we would leave that joint till last. I am going to add some drawings to my home track thread, but I have no time to make them up right now. I have been working overtime to be able to retire Feb 27. When I got all the Ogilvie track stuff back from Lee Crosby after Brian passed away, none of my old drawings were there. Donn has copies of all of the original drawings but he is in FL and I am up here so I will be starting from scratch as far as drawing tracks goes.  

[Steve Ogilvie]

Some types of esses are very easy to do. If you are going to make one that will replace a straight, just cut a 180 degree corner at the desired radius and cut the pieces to suit. Cut 15 degrees out then 30 degrees then 15 again or 30-60-30 or as much as you want as long as the middle corner is twice as big as the entry and exit pieces. Trim the pieces and glue them together from underneath and then attach to the rest of the track. You can mark the pieces with a simple angle finder, no math needed. I usually cut esses out of one piece (no gluing) but we built all of our tracks with 5' by 9' sheets .