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Flexi GTP ultralight


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#26 Gator Bob

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 01:50 AM

Two questions, sir.
 
Flanged or unflanged ball bearings?

Will you be bracing the uprights?
 
Then,tThinking out loud... [i]Hmmm... bending the tongue... do I expect head ons, angle shots, side slam wall shots...

What's that minimun weight again? Should I run a diaplane (unexposed) or a tongue brace... or both?
Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite




#27 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 08:33 AM

Zooming the picture in it looks like Pablo is using flanged ball bearings, Bob. :)

#28 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 04:25 PM

No, I will not brace the uprights. The use of ball bearings va bushings will allow some tweaking before the axle binds.
Paul Wolcott

#29 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 05:17 PM

After 22 hours drying time, the 271 Loctite was still wet on the outer edges, and they pushed right out with slight pressure.

I don't know what went wrong. :dash2:  Back to the drawing board...
Paul Wolcott

#30 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 05:53 PM

Use your soldering iron plugged in to dry it.

Bill Fernald
 

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#31 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 06:04 PM

Too late. I soldered 'em in, using my new Rick's Ungar for the first time.

Wow,what an iron! HOT and fine tip! Fits into tight spaces MUCHO better than my club-fisted Hakko 455.
 
Motor is ready, broken-in under water for fifteen seconds, then dried, then ten second Naptha splash bath.

This motor has a curved balancing gouge on one pole, covered with what looks like a coat of epoxy-like substance.

The wire attachment nubs were way too heavy, so I saved a zillionth of a gram by shortening them. No wire connectors here, too heavy. :laugh2:
Paul Wolcott

#32 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 06:12 PM

Wrong product for the application.


It wouldn't be my first choice, but it's been used many times before by others. Sometimes you got to use what you have on hand.

Bill Fernald
 

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#33 Gator Bob

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 06:21 PM

What is the amp draw?

Which lead wires ya runnin'?
Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#34 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 06:26 PM

Draws .46 amps at 3.0 volts.
I'm planning to run single Marlin Train wires.
 
Zip, I don't understand the question.
I heard there was another quake down there recently. How ya doin'?


Paul Wolcott

#35 Zippity

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 06:39 PM

Do you think your car will be super fast and handle beautifully if you make it as light as possible?

 

Yes we had another 6.6 quake yesterday at 2.31pm. I was in my office on level 9 of a 14 story building.

 

I nearly shat myself :(

 

We have had many "after shocks" of between 5 and 5.7. Everyone is wondering when the "big one" is going to happen.

 

Other than that - we are fine.

 

We have several racers from around the country in town today racing in a 1/32 scale RTR 12 Enduro at my local club track :)


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Ron Thornton
 

 


#36 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 06:43 PM

Do you think your car will be super fast and handle beautifully if you make it as light as possible?

 
Yes, for the track I'm planning to run it on. Lightness will also allow me to gear it to the moon, and get away with it.
 
14/35 Wheeeeeeeeee... :laugh2:
Paul Wolcott

#37 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 07:24 PM

14t 64P Arp steel pinion. A very nice pinion, but I can modify it for my specific purpose.

 

It needs to go on a diet.

 

DSC08161.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#38 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 07:56 PM

Saved some weight here, in a very important place IMO.

 

Pinion lightly soldered onto a junk armature, then counter-rotating drill motor meets Mr. Micro Motor dental diamond cutting wheel.

 

Don't try this without safety glasses, kidz.  :D

 

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Paul Wolcott

#39 Pablo

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Posted 16 August 2013 - 09:04 PM

Old Weird Herald trick of super thin debit card receipt in between gears to set perfect mesh.

And two round stick-ums to ensure enough clearance between motor and axle.

DSC08189.JPG
Paul Wolcott

#40 Danny Zona

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 07:34 AM

Hey Pablo.

IMO I don't think you need the guide tongue brace. I found when they do bend it's harder to straighten them back.

Also when it does take a big hit, instead of the guide tongue bending down the chassis tends to bend underneath the front axle section. I find it way harder to straighten that section then the guide tongue. I could be wrong though. LOL.

But a bad enough hit its usually over with regardless. I'm watching this build like a hawk from now on. LOL.
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Test, test, test and go test some more.
You're never fast enough!!! 💯

Luck is the residue of design.

Be a fountain not a drain.

It's not about being right, it's getting it right.

#41 SlotStox#53

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 08:14 AM

Mark my words, Paul, you are going to meet some new friends here soon.
Flexi racers don't usually spend a lot of time looking at Cukras replicas.  :laugh2:
 
Racing legends like Danny Zona and JC Martin will be attracted to this like flies to a white lightbulb.
I mean that in a good way,  :good: :D


Took a few but Danny showed up, Pablo. :D Looking for those Pablo speed secrets that are good for a few tenths. :D :laugh2:

Hi, Danny. :)
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#42 Pablo

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 12:00 PM

Thanks, DZ. Maybe next time I'll forego the tongue doubler. What you said about where the bend takes place makes sense.
 
Paul, the biggest "secret" here is the parts list on page 1.

More to follow in a few hours.....
Paul Wolcott

#43 Pablo

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 06:24 PM

I wanted to use body clips and construct my own .025" wire clips instead of stock .032" clips.

BUT, I took Ralph's comment about how flimsy the alum pan is to heart. You can't have your cake, and eat it, too, so pins it is.

I found a length of .065" OD/.033" ID SS tube and hogged out the front body mount holes a hair. Used .063" retainers to secure them.  Brass solders to SS "OK", not great but good enough. No problemo.

DSC08208.JPG

Now, this is funny, I figure I'll just use .0625" brass tube pieces for the rear body mounts, easy day. :D
NOT. :laugh2:  Alum does not solder, or at least, I can't do it :dash2:  What am I gonna do now? :dash2:

How about butting twin .063" retainers against the alum nub? Good idea. But... the outboard retainer sticks out way too far.

DSC08212.JPG

Here is my solution. Put a retainer over a piece of tube, with the tube hiding inside a little, secured with an alligator clip. Add a drop of acid and solder up the retainer.  Don't worry about solder getting into the pin hole, we can fix that as a last step.

DSC08214.JPG

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Make sure the solder fillet extends all the way to the other side.  If not, you will have problems...

DSC08218.JPG

Now trim the outside of the retainer by hitting it with the Dremel Cutting wheel until it mikes about .025" thick. Do it a little at at time and let it cool, or the solder will melt. :heat:

DSC08219.JPG

Now insert the tube in the nub and install second retainer. Secure with alligator clip, and solder.

DSC08235.JPG

The pin tube probably has solder in it. Use your mini-drill bit set to ream it out with a .032" bit.

DSC08236.JPG

DSC08237.JPG
 
Now, where is that doggone guide flag? :laugh2:
Paul Wolcott

#44 Pablo

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 07:01 PM

Blueprinting the flag with good tools is Flexi 101, so I won't insult your intelligence with details... :)

DSC08244.JPG

DSC08245.JPG
Paul Wolcott

#45 Bruce Wayne

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 07:58 PM

After 22 hours drying time, the 271 Loctite was still wet on the outer edges, and they pushed right out with slight pressure.

I don't know what went wrong. :dash2:  Back to the drawing board...


Not sure how long but Loctite does have a shelf life so you might check the date code on the crimp seal at the bottom of your tube/bottle. I recently used some out of a new tube to adhere a pinion gear and it cured rock solid in about 15 minutes!
 
Another possibility, and maybe you can't see it with the Red, I know the 242 Blue separates its chemicals when left on the shelf awhile, so it's a good idea to knead the tube after burping the air out or shake the bottle to ensure all the active ingredients are well mixed.  
 
Thanks for sharing the build and good luck on your quest for most laps in its first race. :)
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#46 Pablo

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 08:08 PM

Thanks, Bruce. :)

The bottom of the tube on the crimp is labeled: 2FAM5260

Next time I use it, I'll burp the tube. :)

For now, the solder is holding the BB's just fine :laugh2:
Paul Wolcott

#47 SlotStox#53

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 08:25 PM

Always nice to see a good bit of guide flag blueprinting. :good:

#48 Pablo

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 08:52 PM

Single pair of Marklin wires. Careful planning and routing does not require keepers of any sort.

DSC08248.JPG

Not much to say about the flag assembly. As little weight as possible; no clips.

I'll find a way to secure the wires without them.

DSC08251.JPG
Paul Wolcott

#49 Danny Zona

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Posted 17 August 2013 - 11:31 PM

I have a suggestion, Pablo. Not sure if its in your plans but I would brace the rear uprights. The .025" mils tend to chatter without upright braces.
Test, test, test and go test some more.
You're never fast enough!!! 💯

Luck is the residue of design.

Be a fountain not a drain.

It's not about being right, it's getting it right.

#50 Pablo

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 06:10 AM

Will do, DZ. :good:
Paul Wolcott





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