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Flexi GTP ultralight


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#101 Pablo

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 08:26 PM

Among many other things, Greg Wells taught me to cut off the nubs that form on the inside of the body after harpooning.  Using a new #11 blade

DSC08298.JPG

A small square of bulletproofing on the inside makes the holes really strong:

DSC08301.JPG


Paul Wolcott




#102 Courtney S

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 08:27 AM

Paul, heat the needle up with your lighter and butter , straight through.

 

The car looks great I cant wait for race day!


Courtney Smith

#103 Pablo

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 06:23 PM

Hi Courtney, I can hardly wait for race day either :)

I live right in the middle of the "Dead Sea" and "Black Hole" USA area of commercial slot racing.

My closest track is a club near Montgomery, Alabama, 9 hours round trip.

Today, Greg Wells pointed out to me the rear axle upright brace should be positioned centered on the axle hole. Stronger and lighter that way.  So I fixed that. Every time I put more acid on this car, it needs a new Dial soap bath. It's been through "Pablo's Car Wash" about ten times so far :crazy:

The holes I punched with the harpoon turned out almost perfect; I only had to re-position one of the holes.  For me, that's pretty good.

The car is now 100% ready for track testing.  I warned you the body was going to be an ugly quicky lightweight job. If you really want to look at it, send the kids outside to play. The paint is Fluo Yellow, yet appears Fluo Lime Green in the pics.  Very strange.  Maybe now you will believe me when I tell you the Guard's Red I use on my vintage builds is a perfect Ferrari Red despite the fact is appears orangish in my pics. Hey, I'm a mechanic, not a photographer.

Thanks to everybody who helped. I didn't follow all the advice given, just the good advice. :)

There was plenty of it, and I appreciate it.

Here is the pic you weight watchers are waiting for, along with a pic of the driver.

The rules did not specify a "humanoid" driver, so I used Digger.

Red will be proud :laugh2:  I'm not only a member of the "Ugliest car of the Month Club", I'm also the doggone President

DSC08319.JPG

 

DSC08311.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#104 SlotStox#53

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 06:36 PM

Wow congrats on finishing the build whilst going crazy! :laugh2:  That is definitely one unique color you chose :shok: Here's to some track time further down the line to try this beast out, of course race it too! :D :good:



#105 Gator Bob

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 06:43 PM

Please post a picture of the relocated rear brace.


Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#106 bluecars

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 06:19 AM

:sun_bespectacled: Great job but Greg is the But Ugly critic not me :wacko2: Hoping to see you on the 7th and good luck :sun_bespectacled:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#107 Pablo

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 04:41 PM

Track test:  7 December

It's a doggone anti-pablo conspiracy. I work a week on/week off, and the 1st of the month always falls on my work week lately.

Sep/Oct/Nov then finally 7 Dec I'm off.  I should be ready by then :laugh2:

Just for grins, I weighed my current GTP car :  88 grams.

Now where did I put that doggone new Banshee body ?? :)


Paul Wolcott

#108 SlotStox#53

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Posted 21 August 2013 - 05:59 PM

:shok: Talk about a wait till any track testing :shok:  *expects to see more crazy Pablo builds* for as long as this work enforced rehab from slot car racing continues :laugh2:



#109 Pablo

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 01:18 AM

Track test results at The Dungeon today:

Perfect handler right out of the box, no adjustments needed, plenty fast.

Finished third out of 14 entries.

I was on the same lap as second place, and 3 laps behind first place.

This is the fastest GTP car I have ever driven. I got lucky and stayed out of major trouble.

I deslotted a couple times and hit parked cars a couple times. The car has some minor damage.  Body is done. :laugh2:  Front wheels need to be replaced. They bent up and out of the way - exactly what I wanted.  Chassis needs to be straightened in a couple areas. Nothing major. Race weight was 69 grams.

Mission accomplished :D  A better driver could have won with this car absolutely no problemo. :good:


Paul Wolcott

#110 Courtney S

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 02:12 PM

COOL 

 

Sounds like after this race you are a better driver!


Courtney Smith

#111 Mark H

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 08:14 PM

nice build Pablo! dont forget paint is heavy, i would use metalic or candy and do a couple really thin coats.


Mark Haas

#112 Pablo

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 08:39 PM

Mark H. does the paint in my post # 119 appear heavy to you ?

I'm not a newbie, dude.


Paul Wolcott

#113 Mark H

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Posted 08 December 2013 - 08:57 PM

Mark H. does the paint in my post # 119 appear heavy to you ?

I'm not a newbie, dude.

NO SIR! IT APPEARS PRETTY THIN SIR!


Mark Haas

#114 Pablo

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 03:23 AM

Race update for my potato chip GTP car:

Straightened the flimsy pans and prepped her for another Dungeon race.

Last Saturday she ran even better with slightly less hard tires.

Finished second, one lap behind John Clow. :)

I beat Red, he got third. He is a tough cookie to beat :dance3:


Paul Wolcott

#115 SlotStox#53

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Posted 07 February 2014 - 08:17 PM

Sounds like the lightweight easily taco'd GTP racer is a continued success ! :D  GO get em Pablo :dance3:



#116 Matt Sheldon

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Posted 24 November 2014 - 10:44 PM

Pablo,

 

Where can one obtain the sweet body mounting jig?


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Matt Sheldon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


#117 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 November 2014 - 11:26 PM

That appears to be an ABC (Advanced Body & Chassis.com) body mounting jig made by two brothers from Florida. Their website no longer exists, so they might not still be available.


Bill Fernald
 

Some people burn rubber. I burn oil.  :roflmao: 


#118 Pablo

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 10:27 AM

Bill is right, the website is not up, Matt, but I just talked to the owner, Dave Smith.  He still has the jigs and gave me permission to post his cell phone #205-296-8340

There is no better jig to mount flexi bodies than this one.


Paul Wolcott

#119 CaptREDD

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Posted 01 January 2015 - 02:32 PM

Mr. Pablo

 

I understand a slot-racer going crazy in Mississippi...I lived in Jax County for over 25 years...was a Yard-Dawg at Ingalls or what ever it is now...in '89 drove

to Penciltucky to race HO cars...now High onna Mountain in New Mexico....which ain't new...and danged shore ain't Mexico...not much better off as far as being able to race slot-cars but NO bugs and very little humidity...I have been reading you build posts over the last month...YOU, sir are a real builder...thanks for your efforts and example...

 

CaptREDD


Rufus Nathaniel Redd

#120 Pablo

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Posted 01 January 2015 - 02:49 PM

Thanks, Capt. :)  Welcome to Slotblog :crazy:

Do you know about this one: http://slotblog.net/...slotcars-aztec/


Paul Wolcott

#121 CaptREDD

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Posted 02 January 2015 - 04:43 PM

Thanks Pablo,

Did NOT know about that track...however its about 6 hours one way with good driving conditions...dan git....

 

REDD


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#122 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 02 January 2015 - 05:07 PM

How did you do racing with this build?

Those who work for a living are being quickly overwhelmed by those who vote for a living.

Thomas Jefferson: "Paper is poverty. It is only the ghost of money, and not money itself."
-David Parrotta


#123 Pablo

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Posted 02 January 2015 - 05:20 PM

CaptREDD, Slotblog has probably the most complete, detailed, and up-to-date slot car track information right here:  http://slotblog.net/...4-raceway-list/

 

David, thanks for asking.  It's equal to, or better than, anything on the track. I'm sure Greg Gilbert could win with this car.


Paul Wolcott

#124 gotboostedvr6

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Posted 02 January 2015 - 05:29 PM

Did you consider using the speed fx chassis with aluminum pan?

Those who work for a living are being quickly overwhelmed by those who vote for a living.

Thomas Jefferson: "Paper is poverty. It is only the ghost of money, and not money itself."
-David Parrotta


#125 Pablo

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Posted 02 January 2015 - 05:32 PM

no.

If the car goes any faster I'll probably pass out anyway :o

I'm not a driver or a painter, I'm a mechanic


Paul Wolcott

#126 Pablo

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 12:19 PM

I wanted to show a Dungeon racing buddy some flexi tips by showing him this thread. But my GTP car has changed in several ways, and I have abandoned some old theories, and adopted some new ones. This is an update. No brag, just the facts. This car has always had winning speed and proven more durable than I originally thought.

 

Motor: Hawk 7
Motor braces: JK front and rear
Gears: 72P 15/42
Axle: solid Koford
Wires: 18 AWG
Clips: TQ
Flag: Parma cut-down
Flag nut: Koford drilled aluminum
Chassis: C11 .025 center section and pans
Bite bar: solid .055, 3.070 long

Front wheels are gone due to rule changes.
Body pin mounts have been changed to JK clips.

 

Here is what I do after every race:

 

First thing I check is rear clearance. If I liked the performance of the wheels and they have enough rubber for another race, they are removed and cleaned with lighter fluid (keepers installed on the axle to secure the spacers), then bottled and marked which car they belong to. If they don't have enough rubber, they get cleaned, measured, and marked for exact size and hardness for possible later use on other cars that use smaller wheels. Or tossed in the tub of wheels needing new rubber. Even if I'm dead tired, that's the minimum I do. Everything else can wait until next day or next week.

 

IMG_2068.JPG

 

Next I check and clean the body. Nothing special, just check if it will make another race or not, and wipe out the rubber bunnies.  This one looks OK - heck, Red regularly beats me with bodies that look much worse :D

 

IMG_2048.JPG

 

I pay special attention to the clips, tape, and bulletproofing squares. If the body is trashed, I rip the clips off and throw it in the body boneyard.

 

IMG_2051.JPG

Then I look at the amount and location of track scum buildup. (sorry, looks like I already cleaned this one)

 

IMG_2063.JPG

 

In general, too much scum up front indicates ride height (flag spacing) is too low, in other words, needs more spacer(s). No scum generally indicates, an extremely clean track, or ride height too high (too many spacers). Scum in weird places, like all on one side, or lots at the rears of the pans, may indicate a chassis misalignment or too much pan droop at the rear.

If somebody (at The Dungeon) asks me what gears and/or wheel sizes I'm running, I'm going to tell them the truth anyway, so why keep it secret ? I mark my gear teeth/pitch and min. wheel OD required for legal clearance on masking tape. No secrets here.

Unless the braid is really in great shape, I'm going to change it anyway before the next race, so I cut almost all of it off but leave the rest in place so the clips won't wander.

I don't remember what brand tongue doubler that is, but it's been doing it's job.

Note the Lexan squares on the pan forks, under the hooks - this is the key to being able to use a smaller bite bar yet not have the rears of the pans droop too far. I check the pan droop all around after every race - straighten the pans, center section, adjust the front pan downstop fingers, and adjust the Lexan pieces as needed.

 

IMG_2054.JPG

 

Now the flag comes off to check tongue tilt. Nothing will ruin the handling of these chassis like a bent tongue angle :dash2:  I use a Tongue Tweeker to diagnose and correct bent tongues, but a long 3/16 bolt and 2 nuts will work. Slip pieces of brass sheet under front and rear of chassis to mimic the clearance the car will have on the track. In this case, The Dungeon requires .032 rear, and the front is self-limiting (sure you can run as low as you want but scum drag will slow you down), so I used a small square of 15 thou in front right behind the tongue (not visible in photo).

 

IMG_2070.JPG

 

Use a 90 degree tool of some sort to check the fore/aft tilt. With the clearance mocked up with brass pieces, the tongue should be level - with one caveat - a very slight upward tilt, in addition to whatever tilt is mandated by the chassis clearances, is considered by many to be a good thing. Any amount of down tilt is always bad, and the more front end hits you take, the more it bends down, and so on, until you cannot make a single lap without deslotting.

 

IMG_2072.JPG

 

Check for any left/right misalignment also. If it needs tweeking, grab the tool and tweek away. Do the best you can to bend the tongue itself into alignment, not the front of the chassis.

 

IMG_2076.JPG

 

My favorite motor braces are the standard JK piece the chassis comes with in the rear, and a curved Slick 7 up front.

 

IMG_2058.JPG

 

Looks like I forgot to cut excess meat from the pinion, I'll have to do that. Removing rotating mass and weight is good. Note the spacers between spur gear and wheel - if there is a space here, fill it. If you simply tighten the wheel where you want and it takes a side hit, you just lost some wheel width and now your wheel is probably loose as well.

 

IMG_2066.JPG

 

Hope maybe you learned something new. If your cars sit in a box with dirty, flat spotted wheels for a month at a time, maybe this photo will inspire you. :crazy: Here's what they look like when put away dirty and left for 45 years:

 

IMG_2077.JPG
 


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Paul Wolcott

#127 Zippity

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 04:32 PM

Why the change from pins to clips?

 

Have you achieved a better handling car?

 

Try all of your tips/improvements on one of those new Mossetti chassis - you'll blow your nuts off :D  :D



#128 Pablo

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 07:52 AM

Many reasons, personal preference.

-A good clip man can have a body off and on much faster than any pin man. But they have to be modified and set up correctly.

-Clips don't weigh any more than pins and tubes

-Pins are a PITA for shakey hands like mine, especially in the heat of the battle.

-C11 chassis are not near as durable as a TFlex, therefore the body comes on and off a lot.

-Anybody ever been to a flexi race where the Kelly Team boys are racing ?

During lane changes they don't even look at the car before ripping the body off in one smooth motion and start re-tweaking the chassis.

If you blink you will miss it, and it goes back on in the blink of an eye.

 

This has been covered before ad nauseum. Here it is again, look here:

 

http://slotblog.net/...built-by-pablo/

Page 1, post # 14, and page 2, post # 62.


Paul Wolcott

#129 Pablo

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Posted 12 June 2016 - 09:02 AM

Another post-race inspection tip for newbies - check bushing alignment.

In this photo, I merely loosened the right side keeper and moved it enough to let the spur clear the pinion.

 

IMG_2247.JPG

 

Then check if the axle is still free enough to drop through the bushings under it's own weight with the chassis turned sideways.

If it binds, you have upright misalignment. If it's good, now you can clean the dirtied oil areas from the axle and button 'er back up.


Paul Wolcott

#130 Pablo

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 02:45 PM

Post-race teardown on one of my other C11 chassis race cars revealed a problem -

as is typical of the C11, it does flex a lot and in this particular car, the rear end needed to be bent back downwards a little.

With my meaty fingers, I tweaked it. Nothing. Tweaked a little harder. Heard a "snap" and figured I busted a joint. Nope, no busted joint. The "snap" was the motor being re-positioned in relation to the EB side lower edge. When the motor and chassis flexed upwards, the tight gap prevented the chassis from returning to it's normal shape because it hung up on the can edge.

 

IMG_5949.JPG

 

Easy fix, a 409 Dremel cutoff wheel widened the gap just enough to prevent it from happening again. End of problem.

Probably my own fault by positioning the motor too far right.

Not a serious problem, but something to think about if your gap is tight, it can prevent normal flex.

 

IMG_5948.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#131 Pablo

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 05:26 PM

Time for a new motor. Sometimes the best way to remove a brace is to slice it and trash it.

Especially if the motor still has some life in it like this one

 

IMG_5950.JPG

 

Best way to ruin the performance of a race gear is use the stock screw.

If you want it balanced, use a shortened hollow screw and find one that makes it perfect

 

IMG_5952.JPG

 

 


Paul Wolcott

#132 Samiam

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 05:48 PM

Paul,

 

Do you use a double edged razor blade to slip in the solder joint when removing a motor?  


Sam Levitch
 
"If you have integrity, nothing else matters, and if you do not have integrity, nothing else matters."
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#133 Pablo

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 06:05 PM

Good question, Sam. The answer is, I use that technique sometimes.

In this case, sacrificing the brace was the best way to do it.

Only took a touch of the Ungar on the other 2 spots to release the motor.

 

Lookie here Sam, found a new one for the new motor :dance3:

 

IMG_5958.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#134 Pablo

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 07:53 PM

This time I'll try a different break in and motor installation procedure in an attempt to simplify.

It seems I always spend lots of time cleaning, drying, then having to re-clean the same things again.

We shall see.....

 

IMG_5959.JPG

 

My ARP 72P pinion went on a race diet to remove unneeded spinning mass and weight.

I removed some material from both ends

 

IMG_5971.JPG

 

IMG_5975.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#135 Pablo

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 10:33 PM

Did everything associated with acid flux tonight in one session before breaking in the motor:

-pinion on

-wire terminals tinned

-braces on

 

IMG_5981.JPG

 

Then gave 'er a Baking Soda and Dawn soap bath scrub, a rinse, then a 3 volt water break in party

 

IMG_5987.JPG

 

Dryed everything up real good, spun the motor up for a 10 second lighter fluid baptism, and done.

Saved myself a lot of work doing it this way :)

 

IMG_5989.JPG

 

Now I need a shower too  :laugh2:  Good Night


Paul Wolcott





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