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Lexan slot car body trimming accuracy


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#1 Alchemist

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 03:05 PM

There are times when cutting a new body, the sides are never even and find that the body is slightly tilted after mounting.  

 

When trimming the lower part of the body to prepare for chassis  mounting, what is it that you do to ensure that both sides of the body are even?  Is there another way to check it  besides mounting it and looking at it on a tech block?  

 

I've tried using tape as an guide for cutting, following what I deem to be cut lines built into the mold of the new untrimmed body.

 

Would you consider sharing your techniques for body trimming and tips on how to make the cut lines straight and accurate please?

 

Thank you.

 

Ernie


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#2 MG Brown

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 03:10 PM

It's true that some bodies have uneven cut lines. Measuring from the top edge of the body with a steel ruler can be helpful. I use tape as a guide also.

 

A helpful tool for cutting bodies is a pair of Fiskars "Razor Edged" scissors. Be careful! They are very sharp.


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#3 Tim Neja

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 03:32 PM

Well the critical point is the wheel wells.  I measure down from the top of the wheel wells and then draw a line across each side to get them LEVEL!! Then mount and trim now that you have EVEN sides!! :)


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#4 Bernie

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 03:33 PM

Get one of these:

 

Wrightway Body Mounting Jig

WWBCJ-228x228.jpg
Brand: Wrightway
Product Code: WWBCJ
Availability: In Stock
Unit: EACH
Price: $13.95
 
 
 
Works Great. Wing Car guys use them. Kevin Van Pelt turned me on to them. Smart guy :victory:

 


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Bernie Schatz

#5 gascarnut

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 04:21 PM

The fanciest body jig i think I have ever seen belongs to Mike McMasters in Columbus, maybe he will post some photos some time.

 

It has all sorts of clamps and cutting guides and even pin tube guides, if I remember.


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#6 Jairus

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 04:46 PM

Experience is best.
The more bodies you cut.... the better you get.


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#7 Fiddler

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 10:08 PM

Experience is best.
The more bodies you cut.... the better you get.

With out a doubt!


Tom Eatherly

#8 spudboy

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Posted 10 September 2013 - 11:50 PM

Whenever possible I try to "pre-mount" the body while it is still clear.  I use some of the tips MG describes and try to set my mounting holes and wheel wells accordingly.  When the mounting holes are punched I tape over them on the outside of the body before painting.


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#9 backintheslot

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 12:25 AM

Get one of these:

 

Wrightway Body Mounting Jig

WWBCJ-228x228.jpg
Brand: Wrightway
Product Code: WWBCJ
Availability: In Stock
Unit: EACH
Price: $13.95
 
 
 
Works Great. Wing Car guys use them. Kevin Van Pelt turned me on to them. Smart guy :victory:

 

 

:good:  :good:  :good:  With a small  "General Tools" pocket straight edge to measure body height, a fine Sharpie for marking and quarters, dimes, nickels or pennies (depending on desired size for opening) to mark the wheel cut outs and the Trinity curved body scissors for the curve work.   Clean up any un-wanted sharpie marks with a dab of isopropyl alcohol on a soft rag..........  Ernie, Frank will hook you up!

 

straight edge.jpg

 

The clip slides to hold proper measurement. ( I have flipped my clip to go the other way so the flat end buts up flush to the tool.)  Once the tool is clamped down, an Exacto blade goes through each side of the body like butter. You can then mark the front and rear of the body with the straight edge to match the sides.

 

Jairus makes a fine point as well!


John Albright

 

I have a chassis jig and I'm threatening to use it!


#10 Mopar Rob

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 07:04 AM

Put a mark at the back and front of the body after measuring. I then use a piece of .019" X 1/2" stainless strip with double sided tape stuck to it as a guide. I stick it on the outside of the body and and cut with my xacto knife. I then just peel it off and trim the front with scissors.
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Rob was right!


#11 kvanpelt

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 09:14 AM

Shontel Howard from Dallas Slot Cars sells body templates that give you a straight edge and wheel cutouts, which make the job very easy.

 

They go for $10.00 if you use the same style body frequently.


Kevin VanPelt

#12 The Groove

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 09:48 AM

723029_preview.jpg

Not so much for triming but this body mounting pin tube fixture #1890 (Precision slot cars) sure makes it alot easier to mount the body how and where you want it.


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#13 SlowBeas

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 12:36 PM

Put a mark at the back and front of the body after measuring. I then use a piece of .019" X 1/2" stainless strip with double sided tape stuck to it as a guide. I stick it on the outside of the body and and cut with my xacto knife. I then just peel it off and trim the front with scissors.

Similarly, I soldered a piece of 1/2" wide brass plating and a 2" long piece of piano wire perpendicular to each other. The wire is measured and soldered at just the right place to allow me to stick it inside the body at the rear, measuring the maximum allowable body height (accounting for additional height of tires), providing a straight line for me to use with my exacto blade from front to rear. Doesn't require a lot of additional measuring and taping.

 

I know this idea is not necessarily original, but it's a good one.


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#14 Duffy

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 12:53 PM

Ohhh wow. Beas, you put the light on up in the salt mine and broke the logjam. (Sorry, too much coffee.)

 

How 'bout instead of soldering the wires, you bend two tight clippy things like hairpin-shape (does anybody use those anymore? Yarmulke clips, then) so that you got the bare ends of equal length, and set them anywhere along your brass strip, so they can be adjusted with a little friction. They'll clip the body to the strip and you can set them to a chosen datum inside the bod, mark one side, then move the thing to the other side and mark it the same. We can work up a more complex clamping system maybe, but that's the general idea. Wha' ya think about that?

 

Duf


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#15 backintheslot

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 01:26 PM

You just had to go and make it complicated now, didn't ya......... :laugh2:


John Albright

 

I have a chassis jig and I'm threatening to use it!


#16 Ralph Thorne

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 03:39 PM

When I am measuring the body for a cut line, I start at the highest point on the rear of the body and measure down, I shoot for 1.3" on Can Am and GT Coupe bodies.



#17 MG Brown

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 03:53 PM

... if you use the same style body frequently.

 

The retro folks only need a Ti22 template apparently.


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#18 Duffy

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 04:02 PM



You just had to go and make it complicated now, didn't ya......... :laugh2:

 

Aww Jeez! I shoulda just made one up, it took less time than typing out the description! Listen, we're tossing ideas around here -

 

Body Scriber.JPG

 

A couple things show up in this test run:

It occurs that this tool works fine on a Ti or other bod with sharp corners, but you'd prob'ly have to orient to some reference point on any curvier bods. Likely locations will suggest themselves when you come to that point.

A nice thing to have would be a wire sticking up on the end, for lateral reference. Solder it solid.

Since you can't clamp the thing together in any way that won't come lose when you switch sides - the shell would get clamped in as well (UNLESS you ruff-cut the wheel openings and put the height wires in there) - you might have to mark your positions on the wire and the straightedge with a Sharpie and re-locate on the other side.

 

After this test, I'm gonna stick with my method: measure and mark both sides, clamp steel rule to side at marks & cut, trim nose to resultant plane. Now, that takes longer than typing it, but - what're ya gonna do.

 

Duf


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#19 GrandiRacing

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Posted 12 September 2013 - 01:16 PM

On any given body, I'll measure down from the spoiler/wing first. I'll mark on each side with an ultra fine point sharpie, then move to the front of the body and mark where I want to cut the nose at. If there is a cut line I'll use it as a guide, but many bodies I use don't have one.

I then take blue painters tape ( not very sticky stuff at all ) and lay it straight so it hits the edges of the marks on the front and back of the body. The tape is layed so that it covers the upper portion of the body aka the area I do not want to cut into. I trace the tape line with the same ultra fine point, then cut with the tape still on.
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