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16D Pro Slot "DZ" Special Motor


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 03:22 AM

Finished September 2013:

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Here's how it all started:

dc-65x built me a new tool for making 5mm ball bearing holes in old vintage cans.

Goat Boy 16D BIT (Bearing Insertion Tool) bored out from 2mm to 5mm to accept a drill bit for a ball bearing hole. It works like a charm.

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  • MSwiss, n.elmholt, Duffy and 1 other like this

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#2 SlotStox#53

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 07:53 AM

Now that's a cool tool Pablo :D should make your motor building a breeze ! Really simple & neat idea :)

I likey .

#3 Champion 507

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 10:02 AM

Now that's cool!


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#4 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 11:48 AM

I'm probably not going to install BB's on many more endbells.

I've done it a few times and got away with it, but I've ruined a few as well.

There is just not enough meat up there to work with on most standard endbells.

And JB Weld isn't holding them in very well.

The new tool sure works like a charm for cans though !!! :D


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#5 Rick

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 11:54 AM

Pablo, you would have much better luck doing it in stages than all at one time...............And there is very little stress on EB side vs can side.


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#6 Champion 507

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 03:50 PM

Rick,

 

Even if the motor is endbell drive? (Hi Bob)


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#7 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 03:59 PM

Right, Rick. I think the tapered reamer would be a better way to go on the endbell than the BIT tool.


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#8 Bill from NH

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 07:35 PM

A valve stem reamer (they're straight) of the proper size would be ideal. That's what we used for installing unflanged 6 mm bushings & bearings before Mura modified their endbell to fit a 6 mm bushing/bearing. :)

 

A 3/16" drill bit might work for a 5 mm bearing.    


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#9 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2013 - 08:04 PM

Thanks Bill. I have a tapered reamer here that will do the trick.......goes from 4.66mm to 5.63mm...


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#10 Pablo

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 09:49 PM

New Tradeship endbell.

Dan Debella custom arm, big OD.

Fits the setup perfectly, except, I needed to trim some meat from the EB where the comm tabs revolve.

The line-up is absolutely perfect.

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Next step is a set of Pro Slot 16D magnets and modern endbell hardware.


Paul Wolcott


#11 SlotStox#53

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Posted 27 September 2013 - 09:58 PM

One sweet looking setup Pablo :D Well on the way to another successful Pablo modern/vintage 16D mill .... Great to hear the modded BIT did the job :good:



#12 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 12:10 AM

I'll call this motor "DZ" for Danny Zona.

He inspired me to try big airgaps for D size motors.

Plus, DZ is a big fan of multiple coats of CA glue to secure magnets.

The arm is .540 and the hole is .590; no shimming.

Modern D size mags fit perfectly.

The positioning of the mags was easy; when the endbell slammed home, they were perfect.

The arm is centered.  Sometimes you just get lucky. :)

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#13 havlicek

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 08:07 AM

 

I'll call this motor "DZ" for Danny Zona.

He inspired me to try big airgaps for D size motors.

 

No question that larger airgaps work really well for the D motors Pablo (at least the modern ones)!  Should be a solid runner!

 

-john


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#14 SlotStox#53

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 03:49 PM

Cool progress ! Modern mags with vintage can +BB + tradeship EB & modern hardware + big arm/gap = the Pablo 16DZ !

#15 Bill from NH

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 04:26 PM

Pablo, have someone turn you a 5 MM slug to insert in your modified BIT's 5 MM hole. Then you could utilize it for both drilling 5 MM holes in old cans & as a BIT. I bet Rick T. could easily come up with something similar to this.


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#16 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 04:36 PM

That is a great idea, for sure.

But it's not really the end of the world if I have to just use the JDS when building modern motors.

I'm not going to ask Rick T. to devote his life to this :laugh2:

Other projects, maybe, but not this one :D

Rick B. may be working on a new BIT.....that would be the best solution.

And you KNOW it will be perfect, just like the Goat Boy tool.

 

Now, where did I put those 36D brush hoods and my shunt wire ? :laugh2:  :crazy:


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#17 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 05:17 PM

Cannibalism in Mississippi :diablo: :D

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#18 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 05:39 PM

Little bit of carving with my Kim Lander Micro Motor enlarges the hood nest to accept the bigger pieces.

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#19 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 06:53 PM

Hood alignment tools in place and ready to solder pent roof thingies with my Hakko 454. :D

Trying to be Rick Thigpen :sun_bespectacled:

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#20 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 07:49 PM

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#21 Pablo

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 09:06 PM

Runs OK, but after 5 minutes at 3 V, it's hot.

Tried new Gold Dust brushes, now it runs warm but not hot.

Screams like a modern S16D, which, in actuality, it is.

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#22 SlotStox#53

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 09:24 PM

Fancy! :D nice bit of spare part salvaging!!!

#23 Pablo

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 06:12 PM

My experience is, a potent arm combined with weak magnets gives a hot running motor.

So, I am going to reduce the airgap and see if it helps. .590 is a little excessive, methinks.

A pair of 10 thou SS shims Krazy Glued to the mags.  I used a 16D can straightener tool to form the curve.

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#24 Pablo

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 08:25 PM

Hole is now .560, giving an airgap of 20 thou.

We shall soon see how she runs with the smaller airgap.

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#25 SlotStox#53

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Posted 30 September 2013 - 08:36 PM

It's amazing the difference the size airgap , wind , mags etc can make to a cool or hot running motor.. very informative watching your builds Pablo :good:







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