151 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Finished October 2013:

 

 

Here's where it all started:

I changed my mind, I'm going to attempt this. It looks simpler than I originally thought.

In 1966 I was soldering chassis and rewinding motors, but I was 150 miles away from the heart of racing in the Los Angeles area. That's a long drive on a Schwinn    I never even heard of this R&C stuff until I started reading the blogs in 2000.

I need guidance in the parts gathering phase. I have the parts but I don't know what they are

 

First, I found this super sweet Doug Azary built motor in my parts drawer.  It was a birthday gift from Doug a few years back, an Atlas can painted gold, black Cox NASCAR motor endbell and a Deathstar arm that was made into an endbell drive and wound with 60 turns of #30. It was professionally balanced and trued by Jim Hahn, noted slot car motor expert. The magnets are Tradeship and the lead wires are Plafit.

 

Second, is this body legal ? What is it ? WB is 3 3/4, width is narrow but will accept 3" wheel widths if they extend 1/16

[SlotStox#53]

Seems Steve was right in thinking you would end up building an R&C car Pablo

 

Never seen that motor before , but totally agree it looks sweet !!! Body could be a Chaparral 2D Which if it is they were raced in the R&C series

[Pablo]

Thanks Paul, I figured the body out with your help.

The body is a Tom Andersen Chaparral 2D, legal for this build.

[Paul Jurczyszyn]

No problem. Glad I could help.
Paul

[Lone Wolf]

Motor is Frankenstein, or is that Fraunk-N-Steen? Russkit 27 can with a Cox 16D Nascar endbell. Lets see the arm in that puppy.

[Pablo]

Here ya go, Lone Wolf.

Please, Steve O, tell me if this is not good for this project.

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo!

 

Great to see you join the fun.

 

I'm hoping we can do something like a motor guide for 1966 soon. Basically , it would include the Mabuchi's, Strombecker Hemi 300, "Pitcan" and all the old players from Pittman, Kemtron, Wilson etc.
 

[Pablo]

Are these (revised 10/2/2013) parts OK ?

Flag is a Dynamic 660 circa 1964, rear wheels are .450" wide setscrew type, fronts are set screw, crown is a Delrin 37T..

Please don't hesitate to tell me if something needs to be changed.

Because once the parts gathering phase is done, I'll be like a hungry dog after a duck

[dc-65x]

I'm pretty sure the Dynamic guide is a 1967 item. Oh Steve.....    what say you?

 

The rear wheels are something from Professor Motor perhaps?

[SlotStox#53]

Guide looks ok Rick & Pablo Just checked Steve's article on guides , 1966 is the year for that one ,although possibly too late for the series , but it does show as '66

[Gator Bob]

Pablo, This one should be a walk in the park for you.   

 

Guessing,

 

The fronts look Dynamic, possibly MDC.

The arm looks like a hot wind on a Champion blank.

Cox gears in 66 had slotted set screws IIRC.

[dc-65x]

Hi Pablo,

 

I'm hoping Steve will chime in soon.

 

For me I've always just followed the race reports. I read them, look at the pictures and tech sheets. If I wanted to use a set screw wheel and Russkit reproduction wheels were not available, I'd use the Professor Motor wheels. BUT, does that mean if a guy has some PM wheels he shouldn't use them?

 

Hmmmm........I think it just means I'm a purist nut case

 

I'm hoping Steve can be "The Voice of Reason" and offset my nut case view

[Pablo]

Thanks Rick, I'm done for today anyway. I didn't see any deadline So no need to hurry

[Steve Okeefe]

Pablo (and Rick),

 

The guide is of course a Dynamic 658, and as Paul E. points out, my research pegs the availability date at September 1966.  Close enough for races 5 and 6, but before that is kinda pushing it.

 

The front wheels look a lot like Dynamic 601, which would be just fine.

 

The rear wheels are American Line 1076C (sold by PM and others).  I don't think they're really a period piece, but they are the right size and shape, so I've got no problem with them at all.

 

The bracket is at an odd angle in the photo but looks like a Russkit 795, nothing is more OK than that.

 

The gear...  A Cox gear is a Cox gear is a Cox gear.  Original ones had no ribs on the back, later ones (beginning in 1967 I think) had the ribs.  Older Cox gears (without the ribs) are rather hard to find, and the unused ones you do find are generally wobbly (nobody wanted the wobbly ones so they didn't get used...  and that's why you can occasionally find them now).  Wobbly gears make great static displays, but we want to see these builds move, right?

 

So, I'm hoping we can all get past this business of straining at gnats and swallowing camels, and just enjoy building and running our cars.  If the gear is dyed black and says "Parma" on it, it's not a Cox gear, nor is it period-correct and is not appropriate.  If it says "Cox" on it, has ribs on the back and runs true, it's still a Cox gear and I personally have no problem with using it.  Simple.

 

There are of course other (non Cox) gears that are also appropriate.  Check the reference information provided (example: Auto World catalogs).

 

Whether or not Cox (or any other) gears came with slotted set screws in 1966, if you're foolish enough to use slotted set screws in a race car, you deserve whatever happens to you.

 

The Motor:  The can is of course from a Russkit 27 and dates to sometime in the first half of 1966.  Russkit didn't do a lot of advertising for it, so my information comes from a motor review in MC&T, June 1966, page 48.  If Joe Lupo says the endbell is a Cox NASCAR, I believe him.  Cox NASCSAR motors date from late 1966 to the beginning of 1967.

 

I have no idea about the arm without being able to see it clearly.  If it's wound on a thick lamination stack with 29 or 30 gauge wire and has a Mabuchi or Tradeship (French) comm, it's probably close enough.  If that puppy is wound with 28 gauge wire, it's most appropriate for later races (5 or 6).  If the wire is heavier than 28 gauge, it's not appropriate for 1966 at all.  Check the Tech Charts.

 

Hope this helps!  It's past my bed time boys and girls. Goodnight.

[dc-65x]

The informed voice of reason. Thanks Steve!

[Pablo]

Thanks Steve. I'm going to change the wheels and inserts, as I realized nobody uses American Mags on a Chappy.

I'll change the flag also.

[Pablo]

I changed some things around. Please recheck my photo in post # 8. Thanks

[Jairus]

That pile o'parts gets my vote! 

[Hworth08]

Follow-up to post 8... The white Delrin gear weren't sexy but usually meshed very well. Dynamic's are marked AMT and are a bit better than the Wilson brand but both are quite true. Sometimes they will pop a tooth completely off. Most use a set screw that's bigger than 4-40 that can be problematic.

 

The guide is fine and used by Dynamic in their prized 1st gen Bandit (with the Delrin ring gear). The copper braid was the best. Soft enough to not lift the guide out of the slot but tough enough to last a couple races. The Cox was soft and made good contact but wore very fast.

[Pablo]

Thanks Jairus, and Don.

Uh Oh, Don, thanks, the set screw hole is huge like you said. No Problemo, I will simply drill through to the other side and re-tap for the correct size.  All my experimentation with Slot-It gears finally paid off, although in a strange way

[SlotStox#53]

Nice revised parts haul Pablo   Wheel inserts look the business

[Hworth08]

 

Uh Oh, Don, thanks, the set screw hole is huge like you said. No Problemo, I will simply drill through to the other side and re-tap for the correct size. 

 

 

Why hadn't I ever thought of that?

[Pablo]

Probably because you didn't have the exact tools to do it, at the time. I do.

[Pablo]

[SlotStox#53]

Very nice tap & handle Pablo , another handy/valuable set of tools I gotta get