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R&C Pablo GT Class entry


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#26 Tex

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 09:20 PM

Those are handy. I got one also, with a 040 drill/tap for set screws and another drill/tap for 2mm screws(I think). Having such tools make things so much easier. Not related to these R&C builds but tool related instead, I just received my RGEO Deluxe Wire Bender in the mail today; I'm positively giddy! Now I have to figure out how to use it; is there a thread somewhere on Slotblog, a basic "how to"?


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 09:25 PM

I doubt you will need those tools, Paul, unless you start experimenting with Slot - It gears :laugh2:

Here is my build so far. Jigged up with a sacrificial motor. I'm using tubing for my rear axle - no bushings, no BB's. WB is 3 3/4"

DSC08858.JPG


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 09:28 PM

Hi, Tex. We posted at the same time. :wave:


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#29 SlotStox#53

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Posted 02 October 2013 - 09:41 PM

Pablo you certainly don't hang about !!!

There ya go Tex :)

http://slotblog.net/...al/#entry347061

#30 Tex

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 06:57 AM

Thanks, Paul; I bookmarked the link!


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 10:51 AM

 

Second, is this body legal ? What is it ? WB is 3 3/4, width is narrow but will accept 3" wheel widths if they extend 1/16

 

 

 

 

Don't worry about the width to much Pablo. Very few (if any!) of the period bodies were 3" wide. I don't see any fender flaring being used in the race reports. Just build the chassis to fit inside the body and space the tires to not stick out past the body either. If it's less that 3" so be it. 3" was the maximum width, not the width it had to be.

 

The rules for the GP cars called for a track width of only 2 3/4" :shok: :dance3:


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 11:32 AM

Cool. Should end up being just shy of 3"
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#33 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 11:32 AM

That is a narrow track!! :shok: may have to build a GP car too :D

#34 dc-65x

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 11:34 AM

Cool Pablo :good:

 

That is a narrow track!! :shok: may have to build a GP car too :D

 

Absolutely Paul! :dance3:


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Check out Steve Okeefe's great web site at its new home here at Slotblog:
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#35 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 11:57 AM

Cool Pablo :good:
 
 
Absolutely Paul! :dance3:



May take a few :laugh2: parts gathering for the first car is taking long enough , although I definitely want to do a GP one.

After seeing your Lotus R&C build and the race reports... Gotta build one!!! Hmmm Wilson motor in a GP.. can I squeeze it in?? :laugh2: :shok:

#36 Pablo

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 10:18 PM

Progress report :D  This is fun, I'm glad to be a part of this.

WB is set and jig wheels are in place. My math says .812 rear jig wheels will give me .063 clearance with 15/16 OD wheels, and .750 front jig wheels will give .063 with 7/8 wheels.

DSC08865.JPG


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#37 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 October 2013 - 10:28 PM

:D It is fun! Looks good just with the bare essentials on the jig !



#38 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 10:58 AM

Check out my freaky deaky flag / droparm setup.  The rod is .093 solid. :D

DSC08868.JPG


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#39 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 11:01 AM

Wow! :shok: sure is gonna be a sturdy drop arm!! :D
You definitely keeping both weights?!

Wonders what the rest of Team Pablo's chassis is gonna look with a monster drop arm like that :D

#40 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 11:13 AM

The top weight secures the flag. The two thins combined equal one thick weight, so it's really not a big weight change.

The drop arm will not require a weight amidships.

With this setup, the flag rotates very smooth no wobble. Thanks to Duffy. :D


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#41 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 11:24 AM

Duffy strikes again :D really neat way of getting the weight over the guide & upfront without a slab 'O lead ...nice .

#42 Hworth08

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:08 PM

Drop arms designs similar to that were real popular at our track. Some people wrapped a round or two of solder around the 3/32nds piece to make an up-stop hitting front axle tube. You could fine tune the height by squeezing the solder with wire pliers.


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#43 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:17 PM

I like! :)


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#44 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:18 PM

Pablo,

 

The beginnings of your drop arm remind me of this one:

 

RCrace2Kirby.jpg

 

Jim Kirby Team Russkit TQ second race.

 

Unless I'm missing something, there's your basic "1 rail" chassis, and brass tube at that!

 

I'm thinking the pin tube main rails are also the front body mount just above the front axle.

 

It looks as though it would fold up like a newspaper if it ever hit the wall really hard.



#45 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:44 PM

Thanks Don, and Bill, that makes me feel like I'm on track :good: :)

Steve, that looks like a TQ car all right.  Mine will be similar, but a little stronger.

The body is pretty thick, so it can take hits :unknw:

 

Here is my flag washer math, hope it's right :laugh2:

The flag is .125 thick.

The braid is .015 thick.

I want to use one .020 spacer.

.063 clearance minus .015 = .048.

.125 minus .048 is .077

Minus one spacer is .067

So I have .067 worth of spacers on top of the Ricks Jig on the flag stud.

DSC08879.JPG


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#46 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:47 PM

Single rail?! :shok:

Remember seeing that picture and imagining it would taco itself with a wall shot!!

Lightweight though!! :D

#47 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 12:54 PM

Reminds me of this car:

http://slotblog.net/...lexi-gtp-build/

The mindset is the same: build it real light and pray you stay out of trouble. :)


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#48 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 01:09 PM

Ah yes the neon flexi build! Ultra light with a phobia of wall shots/trouble :shok: build in lightness :good:

#49 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 01:14 PM

Kidz, do not attempt this without a mini torch ! :diablo:

Note hole is protected with aluminum sleeve to disallow solder flow into the hole area. :umnik2:

DSC08880.JPG


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#50 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 01:35 PM

DSC08883.JPG


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