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R&C Pablo GT Class entry


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#101 Pablo

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 08:08 AM

Yup, that is the one. It's history now.


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#102 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 08:13 AM

Real nice and period! Boy it would be fun to get 12 to 15 of these old bruisers together again!

 

Don,

 

My feelings exactly.  But whoever wants to give it a try will have to be very careful about the specifications for the cars.  Rick T. floated this very same idea some years ago and it promptly morphed into the Retro Jaildoor series.

 

More power to them and I hope they have lots of fun racing, but (and I'm thinking you agree) it's not at all what Rick, Jairus or I have in mind here.

 

So, if anybody out there is interested in putting together some sort of competition for these PCOD R&C cars, please feel free to start a new thread (this is Pablo's build thread).



#103 Hworth08

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 08:39 AM

Steve,

Those are the gears I found, snow white. The decent to good AMT(Dynamic) and Wilson gears are more of a translucent color.
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#104 Jairus

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Posted 10 October 2013 - 09:43 AM

AMT and Wilson gears are marked respectively too.


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#105 Pablo

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 07:55 PM

The real car at Sebring, Florida in 1966. Look at the beach sand and the beach grass. Pit crew white jump suits are OK because sand doesn't discolor pants like mud or clay :laugh2:

chappy1.jpg

chappy2.jpg


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#106 Pablo

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 09:10 PM

#11 decals applied inside with Deco Art Faux Glazing Medium.

DSC08990.JPG


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#107 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 October 2013 - 10:27 PM

Love the white jump suits :laugh2:

See the Pablo pit crew & build team are bringing the Chappy along nicely :D

#108 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:50 PM

DSC09000.JPG


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#109 dc-65x

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:51 PM

You've got 3 real beauties there Pablo :good:


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#110 SlotStox#53

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:58 PM

:D  Your Pit Crew look suitably impressed with their work Pablo :D :good:



#111 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 05:58 PM

I could not find any good original pics of the rear end, so I just had fun with it.

Intakes are glowing red due to an engine fire :D :crazy:

DSC09003.JPG

DSC09005.JPG


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#112 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 06:10 PM

I have a dumb question:

If the Chaparrals were built by Americans in the USA, why were the drivers on the starboard side ?

Specifically, the 2D Sebring #11 driven by Hap, a Texan, at Sebring, Florida, why would the driver sit on the wrong side ?


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#113 Tex

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 06:51 PM

Good question.

 

Don't know.

 

Here's an e-mail address:   lthornton@petroleummuseum.org

 

Ask her; she has access to Jim Hall.


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#114 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 07:04 PM

Thanks, Tex, but I doubt that will be necessary for such a simple question.  I'm sure The Newport Harbour Doctorr will know.

My Chappy is done. I will rate myself on a scale of one to ten.

Engineering - Motor and chassis - 10

In an actual race, I'm confident it would be very competitive.

DSC09018.JPG

Body - 7

DSC09009.JPG

DSC09022.JPG

Track test possibly early December

 


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#115 SlotStox#53

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 07:44 PM

:shok: :shok: Awesome car Pablo !!! :D

Chassis really looks the part & despite the body issues its looking good :good: would do well in a race !

#116 Pablo

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 07:51 PM

Thanks Paul E. !


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#117 Tex

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 09:08 PM

Good lookin' Chappy, Pablo!


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#118 Champion 507

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 02:20 AM

Beautiful car as always!

 

Sure hope the mill does it's job. You have obviously done yours.

 

Mighty handsome pit crew a few posts back!


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#119 Neckcheese

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 02:36 AM

I have a dumb question:

If the Chaparrals were built by Americans in the USA, why were the drivers on the starboard side ?

Specifically, the 2D Sebring #11 driven by Hap, a Texan, at Sebring, Florida, why would the driver sit on the wrong side ?

 

All Chaparrals has the driver sitting in the starboard side, as in most other racecars, the McLarens, Fords, ferraris etc etc - it must have something do with the direction the cars run on most tracks /clockwise/anti-clockwise)

 

Niels, DK 


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#120 Jairus

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 08:46 AM

I have seen more than a few Porsche 906's with the driver sitting on the left, and at least one Ferrari 330 P2 in the same configuration. I don't think it was a hard and fast rule at first. But eventually all adopted the Right seating position as that is the side of the pit area for the majority of tracks.


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#121 Guardrail

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 01:49 PM

As always, fine craftsmanship Pablo.


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#122 Pablo

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 04:01 PM

Thanks :D


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#123 dc-65x

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Posted 16 October 2013 - 05:11 PM

She's a beauty Pablo :)


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#124 Pablo

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 07:33 AM

Track test yesterday at Talladega:

Once again, a Doug Azary motor proves to be absolutely perfect !!! :D  :good:

Car handles great for a narrow width heavy body antique.

Powerplant was perfectly matched to the car. It zipped down the track at a very fast clip :clapping:

Motor ran cool as a cucumber. This one was a birthday present from Doug a couple years ago and it was an absolute joy to see it run free down the track like a wild animal !! :D  Plenty fast and very smooth :good:  Both Greg Gilbert and Jay Guard turned some fun laps on this car !! It got involved in a crash with a wing car and a retro car in the bank and everybody was fearing it was totally destroyed ! Not even a scratch. This car is tough. :aggressive:


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#125 SlotStox#53

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 10:08 AM

Awesome Pablo!!! Sounds like another superb creation with perfect track behavior.. a job well done :D even showing the wing & retro cars who's boss :D :D

#126 Champion 507

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 11:16 AM

Whew, this old man can breathe easier now.

 

Pablo, the home you gave that motor  couldn't have been better. I'm honored to have a little bitty part in the makeup of that car!!!

 

Build on, sir!


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#127 SlotStox#53

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 04:54 PM

Top job on the motor Doug :D

#128 dc-65x

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Posted 24 November 2013 - 06:21 PM

Good deal Pablo. Nothing like a good track day!


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#129 Pablo

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Posted 07 June 2014 - 10:31 PM

Track test # 2 today at The Dungeon was successful again, motor still plenty strong, handling is good for what it is, a small, narrow, heavy Chappy body.  It won't "punch the donut" :laugh2:  but it's a fun and zippy car to drive so I'm going to call this one done.  She's ready to send to Oregon along with my GP car once it completes a third track test on 5 July.


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#130 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 June 2014 - 07:05 AM

Sounds like a second perfect outing for the Chappy :good: Definitely ready for July , now if only the GP car would listen to the Chappy for advice :laugh2:

#131 Jocke P

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Posted 16 June 2014 - 08:42 AM

Very nice and inspirational build there Pablo.

 

The matter of left / right hand drive was discussed by the Swedish moderators (ex racing drivers) during the 24h of Le Mans this weekend, apparently it is better to sit Close to the inner curb when cornering, Most tracks are run clockwise, right hand turns will exceed left hand turns.


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#132 Pablo

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 03:15 PM

Thanks, Joakim :)

Unfortunately, this car finished way down in the standings at the R & C event, despite the fact it handled and ran fine in my tests.

The driver's comment was: "Great motor! So much power it's tail happy at the limit"

 

No surprise the Doug Azary motor was a great performer. But lack of grip was odd, considering I used modern SBR rubber, and the cars that beat me used vintage grey  :o  The SBR donuts are suspect, because lately the cars I put them on don't get enough grip.

 

The poor little Chappy has been sitting on a shelf collecting dust for a long time. I think what she needs is new rear tires and a new TrueScale Chappy 2D body.

I really "butchered" the original body's wheelwells, so I've been wanting to do this for a long time.

Next time TrueScale bodies become available, remind me to hoard them. Look at the sweet vinyl masks and interior this one came with:

 

IMG_9311.JPG

 

The body is genuine 10 thou crystal clear Lexan.  I placed all my decals inside with 3 coats of Faux Glaze

 

IMG_9312.JPG


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#133 SlotStox#53

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 04:57 PM

That's gonna be one happy Chappy :D

The Truescale shell is very crisp & looks great just with the inside decals on. The R&C event and making the cars was a really fun experience.

#134 dc-65x

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 05:26 PM

That Proxy Race was a great event I was proud to be a part of. Thanks again to everyone who participated. :thank_you2:

 

Seeing your cool build thread again Pablo makes me want to build another R&C car. :crazy:   :dance3: 


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#135 Pablo

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 05:35 PM

Well, if your cars are anything like mine, at a minimum they need a good dusting and new rubber.

The patina can stay :dance3: 


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#136 Pablo

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Posted 28 January 2016 - 09:30 PM

I totally ruined the (new) TrueScale Chappy 2D body   :dash2:  Masking tape failure resulted in black overspray entering body.

It's not fixable, so this car goes back on the shelf for now. Maybe it was destined to be sold without a body.

 

It makes me feel good publicly admitting I totally ruined something - no more Chaparral body painting for me, for at least 2 months :laugh2:


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#137 Bill from NH

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Posted 28 January 2016 - 09:55 PM

What sort of masking failed you? I still like the 3M tan paper masking tape & clear contact paper, both cut to have new edges that are well burnished. One tape I don't care for is 3M's blue painters tape, yet it's quite popular with others. If Victor ever comes back, order a half dozen of his Chappy 2Ds, Tom Andersen's won't be available. :)


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My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#138 Pablo

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Posted 30 January 2016 - 12:57 PM

Masking tape failure as in, operator error, not the tape's fault :)  I applied the decals and Faux Glaze first, then masked and painted the black body details.

I was real concerned about having the tape lift my precious decals with 3 coats of Glaze, and I was simply too careful with it.

What I should have done is masked and painted the black details first, then applied decals, etc.

 

If Victor comes back, I know what to do. Meanwhile, I decided to not give up. I'll find another body, and this time the white will be, white :D


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#139 Pablo

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Posted 09 February 2016 - 05:47 PM

Found another nice body in the vintage box of horrors that will fit perfectly.

Lord, please don't let me screw this one up :)

IMG_9614.JPG


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#140 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 February 2016 - 06:33 AM

Model builders say that some paints require more than one dip in 91% isopropyl alcohol in order to be removed properly. They also recommend that latex gloves be worn when working with that liquid.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#141 havlicek

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Posted 10 February 2016 - 08:51 PM

 

 

One tape I don't care for is 3M's blue painters tape, yet it's quite popular with others

 

Hi Bill,

 

     There are several different blue masking tapes sold by 3M.  Years ago, they only had the one, but around here, the 2080 and the 2093 are the most common (there are others still).  Both are very different when you're handling them.  The 2080 is made from a noticeably smoother/thinner material and if you lay it out on glass and cut strips with a razor, it can form nice curves and seems to stay put well enough.  Being paint-challenged, I wouldn't know  which of them is better for this stuff though.

 

-john


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#142 Bill from NH

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Posted 10 February 2016 - 10:15 PM

I do keep a pane of glass for cutting masking materials. The blue 3M I have must be 5 or 6 years old now. I first used it when I painted a police car body for a Maine nephew. Generally, I found it too thick & rough textured when burnishing the tape edges. I didn't know there were now several different types of 3M blue tape now. Thanks for the product numbers, The 2080 sounds like it might work better for me. The next time I'm in a home center, department store, or hardware store, I'll look over their 3M blue tapes. On the internet, I found 2080 has low adhesive, 2091 medium, & 2093 high. There must be other differences too. An auto body shop friend has given me a roll of green tape to try.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#143 havlicek

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 08:58 AM

Yep Bill.  A lot of folks just see "blue tape" and figure it's all the same, not realizing that there are several different types available just from 3M alone.  Heck, once the "blue stuff" became popular, other brands started selling blue-colored masking tape!  Scotch has an "Ultimate Edge" tape (#2460) as well, but it's bright yellow (and I have no idea how well that stuff works either!).  When I was a kid and made surfboards, I don't remember there being anything other than  masking tape in the normal light-beige-y color, and as long as it said "3M", it was the good stuff.  ***I would ask Noose and Jairus what they use for masking and go with that.  I mean after all, they seem to know their way around this stuff pretty danged well!

 

-john


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#144 Half Fast

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 09:24 AM

I was told by an excellent body painter that he uses vinyl electrical tape as masking tape. The blue stuff does not work well for me (leakage)

 

Cheers


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#145 Pablo

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 12:26 PM

The blue tape that has a textured surface is for house painting, because walls are textured also, not perfectly smooth like a slot car body.

That's why hobby tape is the best because it's perfectly smooth. I only use the cheap stuff for large areas.

John is right, they do make different types of blue, some are smoother than others.


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#146 Bill from NH

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 03:44 PM

The thin tan tape that Pactra sold were easy to use. Today's Tamiya yellow tapes, also sold by Parma, might be even better. :)


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#147 Pablo

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 03:55 PM

Just a preview - no masking screw ups or botched wheel wells this time  :D

IMG_9617.JPG

 

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This little car is undergoing some major changes before being offered for sale.

The Doug Azary motor was a birthday gift and will be swapped out for something similar in terms of power.

4 new BWA Porsche wheel inserts and the TrueScale interior are being prepped.

Wheel widths are being decreased from 3" to 2 3/4", and new tan donuts are being installed.

If anyone is interested in the car, please send me a PM here on Slotblog.


  • Bud Greene likes this
Paul Wolcott

#148 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 February 2016 - 06:26 PM

Mighty fine job on that 906 Pablo ! Makes me wanna redo my GT entry body for the R&C proxy :D

#149 Pablo

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 08:36 AM

Thanks Paul. New tan donuts, and lookie what I found in the "Vintage Box of Horrors" - a set of Porsche 906 inserts :dance3:

IMG_9622.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#150 Pablo

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Posted 12 February 2016 - 09:21 AM

I found a no-fumble method for inserting, uh, inserts :)

Make 2 dummy axles with perfectly flat ends and tighten the wheels to them so the inserts will stop where you want.

Place inserts on low stick tape, paint side down:

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Apply glue, being careful to not get any where the axle will touch:

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Stick and lift:

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One quick circular swipe with a QTip soaked in lighter fluid, done:

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Paul Wolcott





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