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R&C Pablo GT Class entry


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#51 Hworth08

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 01:43 PM

Pablo,

 

 

 

attachicon.gifRCrace2Kirby.jpg

 

Jim Kirby Team Russkit TQ second race.

 

Unless I'm missing something, there's your basic "1 rail" chassis, and brass tube at that!

 

I'm thinking the pin tube main rails are also the front body mount just above the front axle.

 

 

 

I don't see any other front body mounts so you appear to be correct! I've never seen or heard of that but I'll sure start using it. I always like using one thing to do two.


Don Hollingsworth




#52 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 01:51 PM

You guys must have eyes like an eagle, I don't see it.


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#53 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 01:52 PM

You guys must have eyes like an eagle, I don't see it.


I don't see it either Pablo , drop arm coming along nicely :)

#54 Jairus

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 02:45 PM

Pins are entering the bent up rails just below the front windshield Mr. P.


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#55 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 02:52 PM

Thanks Mr. JW :)  That is what I suspected but wasn't sure.

I doubt I will mimic that.


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#56 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 07:35 PM

DSC08905.JPG


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#57 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 08:14 PM

Now that's some bracket bulletproofing!



#58 Pablo

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 11:04 PM

DSC08909.JPG


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#59 SlotStox#53

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Posted 04 October 2013 - 11:29 PM

Very nice so far Pablo :good:  That single rod drop arm really looks cool all soldered up on the chassis :D 

Progress on Team Pittmans entry is more in the small details at the moment :laugh2:  still parts gathering! (also looking into parts for an R&C GP car too so taking a lot longer!!)

Where'd you get the jig wheels Pablo?



#60 Pablo

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 07:46 AM

Those are .750 and .813 Briggs Jig wheels. Designed to use a 1/16 plate under the chassis.

As luck would have it, they are perfect size to give me 1/16 on the Rick's jig using 7/8 and 15/16 wheels :dance3:


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#61 SlotStox#53

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 07:55 AM

Now that is a stroke of luck :D can't get any better than that!

#62 Pablo

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 06:54 PM

The mission statement says I can use my imagination, rather than build a replica.

"These are supposed to be PCOD (Period Correct Original Design) cars, not replicas or even re-creations.  You design and build completely from scratch using your knowledge, experience, skill, imagination and vintage parts or currently available functional and/or cosmetic equivalents."

I used my imagination to make a unique drop arm assembly.

The hinges may look big, but they are tubes and don't weigh much.

Up stop is a piece of stealthy small tube under the front axle tube.

A length of .063 rod behind the hinge tubes provide extra strength for frontal wall shots.

I originally planned to add side and cross bracing to the drop arm to preclude twisting, but it turned out plenty strong enough as is.

DSC08916.JPG

DSC08918.JPG


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#63 Steve Okeefe

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 07:48 PM

Works for me!  :good:   Go Pablo!  :laugh2:

 

Expect nothing less from one of our most imaginative builders... :crazy:



#64 Pablo

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 07:53 PM

Ahhh now I can rest easy :sun_bespectacled:


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#65 Jairus

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 07:58 PM

No rest for the wicked....  :diablo:


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#66 SlotStox#53

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 08:01 PM

Works for me!  :good:   Go Pablo!  :laugh2:

 

 

What Steve said ! :D :good: 

 

Really cool piece of original design Pablo !



#67 Pablo

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 09:54 PM

Chassis is done.

DSC08921.JPG


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#68 SlotStox#53

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Posted 05 October 2013 - 10:02 PM

Chassis is done.

attachicon.gifDSC08921.JPG

:shok: Well Pablo that has come out really well! :dance3:  Love it!!!!! The bar had been raised :shok: :dash2: :D

 

Team Pittman better get their act together! :wacko2:



#69 slotbaker

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 02:23 AM

Looks nice Pablo.

Hope you don't mind an observation here.

When you cut the rear axle tube out for the gear, do you think the motor bracket might be a bit weak verticaly in line with the 3 holes?

:huh:

I realise the motor bracket corners are very strong, but there is only a single wall thickness above and below the screws. I suppose if you were to use large washers, or a clamp plates under the head of the screws, that would reinforce the bracket with the motor.


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#70 Pablo

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 07:24 AM

I don't mind at all, that's why I post, so y'all can catch me when I make mistakes. :)

In this case, however, I do not agree. The way I have it braced makes the face very strong.

DSC08932.JPG


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#71 Hworth08

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 09:14 AM

Looks real nice, very typical of what was run in '65 and '66. Not the glamor and showmanship of later frames but straight forward and workman like. And pure!
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#72 slotbaker

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 03:12 PM

OK, fair enough. :good:

 

As the world famous scratch builder says... Onward..

:)


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#73 Pablo

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 05:52 PM

DSC08940.JPG

DSC08942.JPG

DSC08947.JPG

DSC08952.JPG


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#74 dc-65x

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 05:58 PM

She's a beauty Pablo and that Mississippi water is really giving it some "shinny goodness".

 

How are you doing the 90 degree bends on your frame rails? They look really clean.


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#75 Bill from NH

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Posted 06 October 2013 - 06:02 PM

Looks like a winner in my eyes! You definitely hit the spirit of the period. She's a beauty, Pablo. :to_become_senile:


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