151 replies to this topic

[Champion 507]

Whew, this old man can breathe easier now.

 

Pablo, the home you gave that motor  couldn't have been better. I'm honored to have a little bitty part in the makeup of that car!!!

 

Build on, sir!

[SlotStox#53]

Top job on the motor Doug

[dc-65x]

Good deal Pablo. Nothing like a good track day!

[Pablo]

Track test # 2 today at The Dungeon was successful again, motor still plenty strong, handling is good for what it is, a small, narrow, heavy Chappy body.  It won't "punch the donut"   but it's a fun and zippy car to drive so I'm going to call this one done.  She's ready to send to Oregon along with my GP car once it completes a third track test on 5 July.

[SlotStox#53]

Sounds like a second perfect outing for the Chappy Definitely ready for July , now if only the GP car would listen to the Chappy for advice

[Jocke P]

Very nice and inspirational build there Pablo.

 

The matter of left / right hand drive was discussed by the Swedish moderators (ex racing drivers) during the 24h of Le Mans this weekend, apparently it is better to sit Close to the inner curb when cornering, Most tracks are run clockwise, right hand turns will exceed left hand turns.

[Pablo]

Thanks, Joakim

Unfortunately, this car finished way down in the standings at the R & C event, despite the fact it handled and ran fine in my tests.

The driver's comment was: "Great motor! So much power it's tail happy at the limit"

 

No surprise the Doug Azary motor was a great performer. But lack of grip was odd, considering I used modern SBR rubber, and the cars that beat me used vintage grey    The SBR donuts are suspect, because lately the cars I put them on don't get enough grip.

 

The poor little Chappy has been sitting on a shelf collecting dust for a long time. I think what she needs is new rear tires and a new TrueScale Chappy 2D body.

I really "butchered" the original body's wheelwells, so I've been wanting to do this for a long time.

Next time TrueScale bodies become available, remind me to hoard them. Look at the sweet vinyl masks and interior this one came with:

 

 

The body is genuine 10 thou crystal clear Lexan.  I placed all my decals inside with 3 coats of Faux Glaze

 

[SlotStox#53]

That's gonna be one happy Chappy

The Truescale shell is very crisp & looks great just with the inside decals on. The R&C event and making the cars was a really fun experience.

[dc-65x]

That Proxy Race was a great event I was proud to be a part of. Thanks again to everyone who participated.

 

Seeing your cool build thread again Pablo makes me want to build another R&C car.    

[Pablo]

Well, if your cars are anything like mine, at a minimum they need a good dusting and new rubber.

The patina can stay  

[Pablo]

I totally ruined the (new) TrueScale Chappy 2D body     Masking tape failure resulted in black overspray entering body.

It's not fixable, so this car goes back on the shelf for now. Maybe it was destined to be sold without a body.

 

It makes me feel good publicly admitting I totally ruined something - no more Chaparral body painting for me, for at least 2 months

[Bill from NH]

What sort of masking failed you? I still like the 3M tan paper masking tape & clear contact paper, both cut to have new edges that are well burnished. One tape I don't care for is 3M's blue painters tape, yet it's quite popular with others. If Victor ever comes back, order a half dozen of his Chappy 2Ds, Tom Andersen's won't be available.

[Pablo]

Masking tape failure as in, operator error, not the tape's fault   I applied the decals and Faux Glaze first, then masked and painted the black body details.

I was real concerned about having the tape lift my precious decals with 3 coats of Glaze, and I was simply too careful with it.

What I should have done is masked and painted the black details first, then applied decals, etc.

 

If Victor comes back, I know what to do. Meanwhile, I decided to not give up. I'll find another body, and this time the white will be, white

[Pablo]

Found another nice body in the vintage box of horrors that will fit perfectly.

Lord, please don't let me screw this one up

[Bill from NH]

Model builders say that some paints require more than one dip in 91% isopropyl alcohol in order to be removed properly. They also recommend that latex gloves be worn when working with that liquid.

[havlicek]

 

 

One tape I don't care for is 3M's blue painters tape, yet it's quite popular with others

 

Hi Bill,

 

     There are several different blue masking tapes sold by 3M.  Years ago, they only had the one, but around here, the 2080 and the 2093 are the most common (there are others still).  Both are very different when you're handling them.  The 2080 is made from a noticeably smoother/thinner material and if you lay it out on glass and cut strips with a razor, it can form nice curves and seems to stay put well enough.  Being paint-challenged, I wouldn't know  which of them is better for this stuff though.

 

-john

[Bill from NH]

I do keep a pane of glass for cutting masking materials. The blue 3M I have must be 5 or 6 years old now. I first used it when I painted a police car body for a Maine nephew. Generally, I found it too thick & rough textured when burnishing the tape edges. I didn't know there were now several different types of 3M blue tape now. Thanks for the product numbers, The 2080 sounds like it might work better for me. The next time I'm in a home center, department store, or hardware store, I'll look over their 3M blue tapes. On the internet, I found 2080 has low adhesive, 2091 medium, & 2093 high. There must be other differences too. An auto body shop friend has given me a roll of green tape to try.

[havlicek]

Yep Bill.  A lot of folks just see "blue tape" and figure it's all the same, not realizing that there are several different types available just from 3M alone.  Heck, once the "blue stuff" became popular, other brands started selling blue-colored masking tape!  Scotch has an "Ultimate Edge" tape (#2460) as well, but it's bright yellow (and I have no idea how well that stuff works either!).  When I was a kid and made surfboards, I don't remember there being anything other than  masking tape in the normal light-beige-y color, and as long as it said "3M", it was the good stuff.  ***I would ask Noose and Jairus what they use for masking and go with that.  I mean after all, they seem to know their way around this stuff pretty danged well!

 

-john

[Half Fast]

I was told by an excellent body painter that he uses vinyl electrical tape as masking tape. The blue stuff does not work well for me (leakage)

 

Cheers

[Pablo]

The blue tape that has a textured surface is for house painting, because walls are textured also, not perfectly smooth like a slot car body.

That's why hobby tape is the best because it's perfectly smooth. I only use the cheap stuff for large areas.

John is right, they do make different types of blue, some are smoother than others.

[Bill from NH]

The thin tan tape that Pactra sold were easy to use. Today's Tamiya yellow tapes, also sold by Parma, might be even better.

[Pablo]

Just a preview - no masking screw ups or botched wheel wells this time 

 

 

This little car is undergoing some major changes before being offered for sale.

The Doug Azary motor was a birthday gift and will be swapped out for something similar in terms of power.

4 new BWA Porsche wheel inserts and the TrueScale interior are being prepped.

Wheel widths are being decreased from 3" to 2 3/4", and new tan donuts are being installed.

If anyone is interested in the car, please send me a PM here on Slotblog.

[SlotStox#53]

Mighty fine job on that 906 Pablo ! Makes me wanna redo my GT entry body for the R&C proxy

[Pablo]

Thanks Paul. New tan donuts, and lookie what I found in the "Vintage Box of Horrors" - a set of Porsche 906 inserts

[Pablo]

I found a no-fumble method for inserting, uh, inserts

Make 2 dummy axles with perfectly flat ends and tighten the wheels to them so the inserts will stop where you want.

Place inserts on low stick tape, paint side down:

 

Apply glue, being careful to not get any where the axle will touch:

 

Stick and lift:

 

One quick circular swipe with a QTip soaked in lighter fluid, done: