286 replies to this topic

[Pablo]

Finished May 2014:

 

 

Here's how it all started:

Body will be a 1966 McLaren-Ford F1.

Chassis will be .032 steel wire inside .063 brass tube.

More to follow......

[SlotStox#53]

Watching closely   Should be interesting to see what you do with the F1 design

[Steve Okeefe]

Pablo,

 

I see you got your body question sorted. 

 

Be careful in your design using .032" steel wire inside .063" brass tubing; these two materials expand (and contract) at significantly different rates under temperature changes (as in soldering).

 

For example: A two inch piece of 3/32" brass tubing soldered along its entire length to a piece of 1/16" piano wire will bend noticeably when it cools to room temperature!

[Hworth08]

We used to stuff 16th tubing on a regular basis but not till the frame finished. We always left the tubing "open" and the wire not soldered so we could tune the chassis with no piano wire, .025, or .032.

Course the tubing has to remain straight and can't be bent so the wire can be slipped in and out. These frames were multi rail affairs and only one tube was left open.

Can't say it worked that well but it made us feel good!

[Pablo]

Understand about the heating/cooling problem, Steve. The way I plan to do it, won't be a problem.

I hope

[Steve Okeefe]

Rock on, Pablo! 

[Pablo]

Could I get a "read" on this possible candidate for my Grand Prix car ?

I looked at the ED Champion article, it says the 5001 had twin BB's.

This motor has none, so I think the sticker is wrong ?

As far as what year this motor is from, regardless of what it is, would be it be a good candidate ?

Thanks,

Pablo

[SlotStox#53]

Don't really know, but possibly too new /late for the series? Those mags look like the ones in Ricks easy R&C motor guide,where he took '68 guts & out them in '66 motor can.

[Hworth08]

The oval hole motors didn't come out till 1967.

 

The armature is about (supposed) to be 65 turns of 30 that would be fine. The comm in the photo is the best of the Mabuchi and was used in 1966.

[SlotStox#53]

Cool ! So the arm is fine just as rick used as is the mags as he used them in an R&C motor, just the can that's the issue.

All this motor stuff is most confusing

[TSR]

Pablo,

If one wants to be technical, that Champion motor did not even see the light of day until after the last R&C race was run, and was not used either in the following Car Model series... at least as seen on all published docs.   

The body you picked appears to be a Booth Machine body from NorCal, post Dallas Booth, as it is not crisp enough in detail to be an REH production and the new Lancer have a "flat" base, not a dimpled one.

If you need a proper, "square-hole", endbell side-drive can and mags for your rocket, PM me and I will mail you one.

The endbell and arm on your 5001 can be used as they are the same as that of earlier FT16D motors...

Please note that the 5001 can has a ball bearing, like all Mabuchi FT16D cans with the oval hole, aluminum bearing housing and updated magnets.

[Pablo]

Understood.

How about this combo instead ?

[TSR]

Perfect! 

[SlotStox#53]

Are you going to rewind this arm Pablo? Remember you mentioning it when planning your GP car !

[Pablo]

I may re-wind it although it already looks pretty sparsely wound as is.  I'll see how she runs first.

At a minimum, I'll epoxy and balance her myself with my magnetic balancer.

[TSR]

Pablo, you NEED to rewind that Igarashi arm. Its spec as it stands is way too weak to offer decent performance. I recommend 65 turns of double 30 wire and about 25-degree timing, it is easy to pack. The comm is of good quality so no need to change that. Once done, send the arm to be balanced and the comm trued.

[Hworth08]

What brand of arm is that beside the Hawk (Champion) can in post 12? I've got one but no idea what it came from.

[SlotStox#53]

Pablo, you NEED to rewind that Igarashi arm. Its spec as it stands is way too weak to offer decent performance. I recommend 65 turns of double 30 wire and about 25-degree timing, it is easy to pack. The comm is of good quality so no need to change that. Once done, send the arm to be balanced and the comm trued.

Sounds like a really nice spec for a rewind on an old 16D ! That comm looks pretty hefty, who's is it?

[Pablo]

Don, see post #16 for your answer.
I know where mine came from - Ebay LOL Straight into the vintage motor box of horrors.

[Pablo]

I found a great flag for this build on Ebay for a low price. It's a Coxalloy, new in package, 3231.

Cost 49 cents in 1966

 

The Igarashi arm has been de-wound. It had 67 turns of blue wire, it mikes about .009 so I think it's about 33 gauge. My plan is to give it 55T of 29.  Havlicek says it's a good idea to pre-coat the inner surfaces of the lams where the first layer of wire will lay. This arm has some sort of green coating so it's good to go. I'm going to follow the Havlicek primer here: http://slotblog.net/...mature-winding/

Now, where did I put that doggone RGEO La Ganke replica winder ?

 

 

 

[Pablo]

This is out of sequence, but, YES, I did check the arm shaft for straightness before fooling with it.

This one is very very straight.

[SlotStox#53]

Nice minty fresh Cox guide Pablo!

Onward with your rewinding Sir, love the shaft checking gizmo,looks like another essential tool!

[Pablo]

Checks axles too !

Greg Wells: "No axles are perfectly straight, but some are straighter than others. Koford axles are the straightest".

Jay Guard: "Photons don't lie" .(refers to the roll test on a sheet of glass)

My point being, it is useless to spend time and effort on an arm with a bent shaft.

The experts may straighten the ones worth fooling with, but a cheap arm with a bent shaft belongs in the round file.

[SlotStox#53]

Neat ! Totally understand and agree with those quotes

Probably why its best to have some drill blanks handy if you get into rewinding more seriously for when encountering said useless shafts ! Would I be right in thinking another product from RGeo?

May have to get one as I be venturing into winding soonish , what's it called?

[Pablo]

Dial Indicator. Not a slot car tool. Not RGEO.