29 replies to this topic

[Jocke P]

I bought these parts during the '90s.

 

 

Now i am ready to build something... do you think it will perform better "as is" or should I add some brass pans to lower the center of gravity?

[JohnnySlotcar]

Put on a set of the Dynamic pans. It will handle much better. You will want to narrow the rear tires so the car can slide instead of tipping out.

 

Look at the pics in the Dynamic Proxy event for ideas.

[Hworth08]

Pans for sure! Without a doubt add pans! Pans will help a tremendous amount! Get the idea? LOL

Seriously, pans, even simple ones really help the handling. A LOT of early cars were based on a Dynamic chassis with added pans.

[Jocke P]

Got bats.

 

 

I cut these out of 1mm brass.

 

I recieved some nice material from R-Geo yesterday... time to get serious...

[James Wendel]

You really should do something about that L-O-N-G rear axle.   

[Jocke P]

I have not yet decided on what wheels to use. Have Daytonas, H&R fish rubbers, and Russkit repops that i can do either standard Parma FCR or Tuna rubber on...

 

Fronts are Russkit repops; they will also recieve hard sponge rubber. Both axles will be trimmed during the final setup. The car will run on our dry, gloss finish wood track... we do not have races for these cars yet, but i am lobbying for it.

[JohnnySlotcar]

Try Professor Motor's silicone-coated sponge tires. They are great for your track surface.

[Hworth08]

Pan looks real nice!

[Jocke P]

John,

 

No silicone allowed on the track, no fluids either, sorry, forgot to mention that.

 

We race most classes, NASCAR and Trans-Am with Fox 10 motors, on rubber or polyurethane tires

 

We also race Scaleautos as is, only mods allowed are tires (Scaleauto), gearing, and adding weight. They work best on the softest compound spongies.

 

Finally we race hardbody cars on modded Parma FCR chassis, we call them American Thunder, they are very fast and very unpredictable. The best of these cars are as fast as the Scaleautos. They are run on either fish rubber or standard issue FCR rubber.

I am looking into what else we might want to race in the future, D3 and other Retro stuff, I am putting together some cars for evaluation.

Don,

 

I am thinking shaker pans on this one, have read "when Dynamic ruled the World" and really liked the idea. Do you have other suggestions?

Thanks,

 

Joakim

[Jocke P]

This is what I WIP-ped together so far...

 

 

Front axle support is front upstop, can bushing is rear upstop. I will make some other gizmos for fine-tuning vertical travel, but this will do for initial testing.

Does anyone know about how the Strombecker AT400 is configured? Can side rotation is marked CW, I assume the brushes are 0 advance if in the middle position.... or?

Gearing is 10/35, original pinion and the largest crown gear I had in the gearbox.

Is this motor similar in size to the 36D?

[BWA]

Here's some of my Midwest pan style cars. You may get some ideas from these.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Hworth08]

Al's cars look mighty fine! I make my pans from a .032" brass kick panel for doors. Mine are very simple to represent 1964 and '65 cars.

 

We had our Dynamite class at the local track about 1967. Most everyone had a Dynamic frame from earlier days so we came up with a "Retro" class. We required all the chassis parts to have Dynamic parts numbers. Dynamic kept coming out with better pieces and combined with a stock 26D or oval hole 16D along with the better downforce bodies created a pretty nice car.

 

The Dynamic pans are fairly rare now and pretty expensive but the frames are in good supply. With the right group the Dynamic frames with home-made pans and re-popped bodies could be fun and not expensive.

[Jocke P]

Beautiful craftmanship, Al. I like the idea with holes drilled from behind... the only place that does not seriously compromise the strength of the frame.

 

I will build a F1 next. I will use the rear mounted bracket on that chassi. My pans above are made from 1mm brass, translates roughly to .040" ..I know I have some 1.5mm brass (.06") somewhere in the garage.

Do you have pictures of the original Dynamic pans??

Does the hinged Dynamic front end perform better than my rigid front?

[BWA]

Thanks, guys. All three of these cars were built by me in the last fifteen years, using pretty much all vintage parts. The wheels on the NASCAR chassis, are my own, and, in fact the very first BWA wheels I ever produced in about 1998.

 

The holes in the back of the uprights is the classic way these brackets were mounted in a Midwest car, and probably the most common method.

 

The one with the bracket screwed on top of the brass plate was how the earlier cars were built, and in fact commercial brass plates with the four screw holes already drilled and countersunk, and a front axle tube, and 1/8" tube for the guide flag already soldered on.

 

On that style of car, the two front screws were 4-40 for the already-drilled and tapped motor mount. The builder had to drill and tap the two rear ones in the bottom of the rear uprights. These were usually 2-56. Most of mine were done with 7BA, which is a British thread size. I only used them, because dad had lots because of building British style live steam engines.

 

I only used the hinge because I had it as a complete Dynamic chassis with the hinge already there. It is really taken out of the "handling" equation by the single screw through the plate and the front of the chassis. When used in its original form, the hinge would wear very quickly, the front end would get very loose laterally, and the car would snake its way all the way down most straights. Looked pretty cool, but wasn't the fastest way around a track.

 

In all cases, all the plate to chassis countersunk screws are left slightly loose to aid handling. The front bracket screw on the NASCAR chassis has an O-ring between the pan and the bracket, allowing some adjustment from real loose to real firm for the "bracket slop", which is like suspension adjustment.

[Jocke P]

Here is what I have left when the Can-Am car is built.

 

I have two identical pairs, two brackets that fits AT400 motors (but only one motor), and two others that I am not sure what they were intended for, endbell drive for sure, but FT16 is too fat and Parma/Mura are too skinny to fit in the groove.

 

As you can see, I have used them with 13D motors until I find out what they are really intended for... I might open them up slightly so that the FT16 fits.

[Hworth08]

A fair chance the bracket to the right of the arrow shaped brass piece is for a 26D judging from the wide slot for the endbell.

 

I can't post a picture but the Dynamic pans were called Out Riggers available maybe in late 1966. Then came the Sloppy Sam pans that were modified Out Riggers that allowed the pans to flop as was the new style. They came out in 1968.

 

The Independent Scratch Builder site that is part of Slotblog has the Auto World catalogues that show these pans with the other Dynamic parts. 

[Jocke P]

That is the same as the top one. Do you have a measurement of the 26D endbell vertical groove? My bracket measures 7.8 mm where the motor sits.

[Jocke P]

Getting there...



Al, I borrowed some of your ideas. Front tube is three sections held together with carbon fibre axle (not visible).
Center fastening screw is threaded in brass with locking nut, allowing a loose fit.
Rear uprights are drilled. Unfortunately i made the rear bracket too snug so the crown gear does not fit, will make a new version tomorrow.

 

Tonight is tracknight.

[Mark Johnson]

Nice.

[Jocke P]

Thank you, Mark.

I am still waiting for my delivery of Stay-Brite flux so that I can start soldering properly; will pick it up day after tomorrow.

[Jocke P]

Well, I finally got around to extending the rear bracket so now the crown gear fits.

 

 

Next up will be to remove  paint from the body, I need to get a clear view of where to put the body pins, and I also will try to Clean up the windshield.

 

Any tips on how this can be done without damaging the body?

 

I have used brake fluid on old plastic cars with good results Before....(my trick is not to leave them for longer time than necessary, and keep working on the thicker areas)

Will this work on clear bodies as well?

 

[gluebomb]

Hi Joakim,

 

I've had good luck with "easy off" brand oven cleaner in a squirt bottle to remove paint on old butyrate bodies; it takes off enamel paint very quickly and doesn't seem to affect the butyrate at all. It will quickly destroy anything made out of PETG though, I suspect Lexan also.

My method is to spray it on and leave it for 10 minutes or so, remove what's loose, then add a bit more etc - ventilation and wear gloves as it's nasty stuff !

It might work on yours depending on what cleaner you get and what the paint is, ie enamel or laquer. The brake fluid is definitely worth a try but whatever you use try to do a test on a junk body first.

Let us know how it comes out ?

[Jocke P]

Thanks Simon, I think i have seen easy off somewhere here in Sweden, will look for it.

 

I got the Matich off US Ebay sometime during the nineties, it was painted from the inside and much of the paint had come loose, so I did a Quick paint on the outside when spraying Another car.

Not sure what material it is made of, not even sure how old it is. New pops of the same body are available, so i will risk cleaning it.

 

The body is on the car now, pans and body are flexing nicely... it will be tracktested Thursday.

[Jocke P]

Well, I finally managed to get some laps on her, things were loosening up ok until i suddenly lost traction..need a new crown gear....

[TSR]

Does anyone know about how the Strombecker AT400 is configured? Can side rotation is marked CW, I assume the brushes are 0 advance if in the middle position.... or?

The AT400 armature is timed at zero-degree, so it should not matter which direction it turns but you should first try the brushes at 360-degree and parallel to the top of the can, then dedide on rotation direction at 3 volts. Once you have found which direction is best, you can advance the timeing in that direction while keeping the brushes as evenly opposed as possible.