Jump to content


Samson-inspired F1 using some R-Geo parts

  • Please log in to reply
4 replies to this topic

#1 JimF


    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,113 posts
  • Joined: 20-June 07
  • Gender:Male

Posted 16 December 2013 - 08:27 PM

A while back, I posted pics in the gallery of a couple of multi rail F-1s that I built up to take to So Cal to race at "The Cave" Those frames were very good in testing here in Nor Cal and were were very good when I got to the Cave, However as time passed and the bite came up, those two frames got bitier and bitier. My other cars were very good but my F-1's while fast, got harder to drive and ultimately didn't race well.


I decided to build up a stiffer frame to help me manage bitey conditions and the inspiration here came from the justly famous Dennis Samson design. Here is a step by step using some R-Geo parts and some handmade bits as well.




Here are the R-Geo bits that I used. His kit also includes some nice tapered pans, but I had already used those up on the multi rail projects. This frame will be 4 1/8" X 7/8". The front line on the nosepiece is where the axle will be and the second line marks a couple of tiny notches cut into the nose block as stopping points for solder.




In the jig and off we go. The two inner rails are .062 wire and are soldered to the bracket at rear and the nose block (but only back to the little notches)  This will allow a little more flex but can always be soldered all the way later.




This shows how the pre-bent brass main rails loop over the front axle. There is a large eyelet that will go in place there as well.




Brass outer rails soldered up to the axle and flow soldered full length to each other but not to the wire inner rail.




Main brass rails in place on both sides. The double brass rails are only soldered to the inner wire rail back to the end of the nose block in front and even with the bracket face in back. The rest of the length of the brass rails are not soldered to the wire inner rail.




At this point, I had figured out a better way to do the front axle, so I dropped the axle out. These are 1/16" X 1/4" brass strips that will become the outer pans. A small notch is filed into each pan right where the front axle loops are. This will allow a little clearance b/c the loops hang a little outboard and would bind the pans without these notches.




Here is one of the pans with the notch and also marked for a bit of taper. The taper allows the body to fit over the frame a little better. This shot also shows how the front loops hang outboard a little.





Back to the rear of the frame for a sec. This shows a small bit of 1/16" brass soldered to the main rails. Each of these bits weighs about 1.6 gr. The Samson original uses full length pans and so, this wouldn't be necessary if using the original design. There is also a 1/16" wire bracket brace shown here.





OK......pans are notched, tapered and ready to put in place.




Here are the tubing bits for the shaker rail in front (3/32 square tubing), and the pan stops in back (3/32 round tube) The round tube in back drops nicely into the valley between the two brass outer rails.





Rear stop tubes in place.




Here is the .055 wire for the front shaker rail. This could be smaller dia. as well if you wanted more "shake" Bend one side of this rail, slip it through the tubing bits and bend the other side. This is not as hard as you might think and once both legs are bent, it just takes a little tweaking of the opposing "legs" to get it to lay flat on your pan




Wrapping it up. Front shaker rail in place, rear stops in place ( .047 wire) Body mount tubes are in place and each is backed up with a tiny bit of .047 wire to improve to solder hold. The center wire is a .032 spreader bar which will also carry the center weight plate.





Here is the front end with a piece of 1/8" tubing slipped through the axle loops. This gives a more snug fit in the loops than the eyelet did. This shot also shows a better view of a couple of details.

  • Front body mount tube and the bit of wire backing it up
  • "Solder stopper" notches cut into the guide block.



Here's the front with the center of the 1/8" tubing cut out, (could be left whole if you want) and the center weight. When soldered to the .032 wire, the center weight will flex a little so a bit of .047 wire is added to form a stop so the center block can't drop lower than the main chassis. Soldering up the front axle into the tubes is the last step.




OK.....all wrapped up with running gear. This will be a great car to have in the box for when the flexy multi rair cars get too bitey. Thanks go out to Rick @ R-Geo for the kit and of course to Dennis for the inspiration.


S7 Mini Brute motor @ 8-29

Samson BB fronts.

JK 8713 ET treated rears.

Weight is 106 gr. as shown

Would be 98 gr without the center weight.



  • Tim Neja and Peter Horvath like this
Jim Fowler

#2 Tim Neja

Tim Neja

    Grand Champion Poster

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,768 posts
  • Joined: 11-June 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Orange County

Posted 16 December 2013 - 09:54 PM

MAN---how do you get that so "CLEAN" build???? I build mine and I TRY to take the time to clean it up but I just DON'T have those SKILLS!!! Beautiful work Jim--looking forward to racing with ya at "The Cup"!!! :)

She's real fine, my 409!!!

#3 Rick


    Grand Champion Poster

  • Partial Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8,843 posts
  • Joined: 17-February 06
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:PA

Posted 16 December 2013 - 10:05 PM

Simply put: AWESOME!..............

Rick Bennardo
"Professional Tinkerer"
R-Geo Products
LIKE my Facebook page for updates, new releases, and sales: Rgeo Slots...
Lead! The easy equalizer...

#4 TG Racing

TG Racing

    On The Lead Lap

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 446 posts
  • Joined: 11-December 11
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Kettering, OH

Posted 16 December 2013 - 10:28 PM

You, Sir, Are Inspiring.  Thank you for such great "How To" posts!

Thom Greene

#5 JimF


    Posting Leader

  • Full Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,113 posts
  • Joined: 20-June 07
  • Gender:Male

Posted 16 December 2013 - 10:56 PM

Thanks for the Kudos ya'll. I really don't expect this car to necessarily be faster than the other things I've built recently. I do hope that it proves to be more immune to conditions.


Timmy, I'm not able to make a major race in January b/c I'm super busy with the ski shop and product intros and shows as I get ready to write orders for 2014-15 season. It's probably time for me suck it up and make a King track race or two next year so that I can pay my dues on that track before I try a big race. (I really do hate how motor dependent that track is though) Sure had fun at the Cave working with you and was great to see Joe again.


Heck....that was the first time in a long while that I've finished within 3 laps of Duran........ :shok:

  • Tim Neja likes this
Jim Fowler

Electric Dreams Online Shop