21 replies to this topic

[MowJoe]

Guys, I'm a newbie here.

I recently bought a Cidex Euro with three position toggle and eight position rotary knob. I used it for the first time Friday night. It worked good except there were times that I would let off the controller to brake but my car would stay at full power. I had this happen in several different lanes but at the same track area.

I am curious of anyone has any insight or may know someone who could check this thing out for me?

[gotboostedvr6]

Check the relay circuit.

[Paul5097]

I think Larry Kelley is the resident Omni controller expert. His user name on the blog is Ramcatlarry.

[MowJoe]

Here is a picture. Where is the relay circuit and what am I checking for?

[MowJoe]

I had read some old posts stating he did Omni work.

 

I sent him a message yesterday but had not received a reply. Wasn't sure if he was still an active member.

[MarkH]

This controller is still one of my favorites.

 

If it is staying at full power when you let off, as mentioned above, it sounds like the relay is not returning to the open circuit. With out the car on the track squeze the trigger full throttle and you should hear the relay "click" over to the NO Full Power circuit. Release the trigger and you should hear it return to the "Off" position. If the relay is not sticking closed with no load, the contact points might be arc burned and when the relay closes under load the little spikes on the burn "could" be fusing together and causing the stick.

 

On the trigger there should be a wire that goes down to the relay sending power to trip the relay when at full throttle. Check the wiring for shorts, most likely not the issue.

 

Relays are cheap and easy to put in.

[Ramcatlarry]

Your picture shows a clear CRACK in the top diode on the left of the module. That bank of diodes and rectifiers are what the dial switch is positioning.  Replace that broken diode and the brakes COULD come back if the points in the switch are not blown out as well.

 

Second option is to check the trigger brake post. Is it corroded or not making contact at the trigger brake position? Clean and adjust as needed.  Common problem with older controllers of all brands.

[Cheater]

Thanks, Mark and Larry, for trying to help a new member.

 

I just noticed the copyright date on the circuit board: 1994. Has it really been twenty years since those controllers were introduced?

[Ramcatlarry]

A noble but bulky attempt to tame the flat track and Group 12 motors of the era. 

 

Almost always repairable, but not as nimble as the modern transistor controller.

[MowJoe]

Larry,

 

Would you be interested in giving it a good once-over if I shipped it to you?

[Kim Lander]

Does the power stay on or just the brakes are gone...if just no brakes check the fuse, doesnt take much to pop it and you will have no brakes.Mine has done it a few times and is quite scary when you come to a turn.

...........................................................Kim

[MowJoe]

The brakes were working, it's just when I came to 1 certain turn on the track I would let off and have no brakes. I had this problem in all lanes but just this one turn. Everywhere else the seemed to work but in this 1 turn I would let off but the car stayed under power. I'm not talking coast either, I'm talking under power. It's as if I hadn't even let off the trigger. I took Marks advice and changed the relay, just finished that up. Larry, I cannot see a crack in the top left diode anywhere.

[Ramcatlarry]

Photo LOOKs like a 't' shaped chip from the diode.  All cracks in diodes or rectifiers are indicators that they got very hot and cracked like popcorn.

 

Missing brakes in only one area of the track or one lane usually in a braid or track related problem.  If a combination of flat braid and a low track braid - or excess tire residue on the braid- will insulate the power/ground of the system.  Sometimes kicking the braid tips down a little will add enough pressure to work better.  Happens many times on poor lap counting cars as well.

[MowJoe]

That "t" is actually part of letters and numbers on the diode. I will check it thurs at the track. I will run another car with it to see how it works with it. I did replace the relay last night anyway though.

[MowJoe]

Guys, ran the controller for a couple hours last night at my local track.  It did a real good job!  Worked great with 3 different cars and no problems to report.  Thanks for all the replies and help!

[MarkH]

Good news. I have the Euro Cidex as my backup for the Hitman. Either way I am comfortable driving the FK, FK-12, C-12 and D motors.

[deslot27]

I have a good cidex stick, with a camen block, all new wires, clear parma handle. Works great on scale cars, has rotory brake pot.

???? $75 shipped

deslot27@verizon.net

thanks

[CoastalAngler1]

Omni x2 

[Kirby]

I have a half dozen Omni controllers that i would like fixed or freshened up. Does someone have Larry Kelleys contact info??  I am gonna try to message him on this site but not sure how.  I can also be called or text 419 654 5552.  Thanks ahead.

[orangecrate]

I have in my pit box a digital volt meter "DVM". I use to trouble shoot any electrical problems with my controllers and check track power and checking the armatures when I over haul the motors.

These dvms can buy specially if you live near to a harbor freight  or lowes, homedepot, etc.

I have a 2 omni controllers for 20 years and they are robust, I dropped them many times and still run great.

[Samiam]

I have a half dozen Omni controllers that i would like fixed or freshened up. Does someone have Larry Kelleys contact info??  I am gonna try to message him on this site but not sure how.  I can also be called or text 419 654 5552.  Thanks ahead.

Here you go:

http://slotblog.net/...29-ramcatlarry/

 

Upper right is "send message".

[Ramcatlarry]

Kirby, check you mailbox.  Have some inventory and still soldering and racing slot cars.