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Total Performance - first Cobra race car


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#1 dc-65x

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 07:25 PM

This is my first car built for the Total Performance theme.

TotalPerformancePost-6.jpg

Below is a link explaining this theme:

Total Performance Era

 

I'm building the first Cobra race car. It's a "slabside" 289 ci:

 

CobraPictures-3470x353.jpg

 

Here's an excerpt from Dave Friedman's "COBRA The Shelby American Original Archives 1962 - 1965":

 

Our first race car made its debut at Riverside in October 1963 with Bill Krause driving. This race was a three-hour endurance that was run as a prelude to the famous Los Angeles Time Grand Prix. This race was also the debut of the Corvette Z06, and the Chevrolet guys came loaded for bear with drivers like Dave MacDonald, Bob Bondurant, Jerry Grand and Doug Hooper."

 

"The race was reasonably close at the beginning with Dave MacDonald's Corvette and Krause's Cobra Swapping position for the lead in the early laps. Soon, however, the Cobra Pulled away to a half-lap lead, only to have a wheel hub break and rob Shelby American of a victory in its premiere race."

 

After this first race it was total Cobra dominance:

 

CobraPicturespost-1.jpg

 

Here are some color pictures of the die cast model version:

 

CobraPictures-4617x386.jpg

 

I love this car! Slabside fenders, no flares, wire wheels and the little racing windscreen:

 

CobraPictures-9780x534.jpg

 

For my slot car version I found this vintage AMT model kit on eBay Buy It Now for $16:

 

CobraBuild-5.jpg

 

This car is SMALL with a super short nose (guide lead), 3 5/8" wheelbase and a width of only 2 7/16". :shok: At least it's pretty light at 20g including the body mount posts and brass screw inserts.

 

At first I wanted to do a RAM 850 or a Kemtron X503 but those motors were just too tall for the body. I ended up with one of my favorite vintage motors, the Pittman DC-65X or 6 volt.:

 

CobraBuild-4.jpg

 

For the chassis design I had in mind I needed to drill and tap 2-56 holes in both motor end-plates. The end-plates came off for the procedure:

 

CobraBuild-6.jpg

 

In hindsight, which is 20-20, I could have CAREFULLY drilled and tapped the holes with the motor together. Especially since the metal end-plates are not magnetic, I could have kept the drill chips out of the motor.

 

The motor's aren't complicated but sometimes it take some finessing to get them re-assembled so the arm spins freely. Perseverance prevailed and here's the drilled, tapped, buffed but otherwise stock motor:

 

CobraBuild-9.jpg

 

CobraBuild-8.jpg

 

I made up some Russkit 22 style motor mount plates.......it's going to be and inline. :D

 

chassis-30.jpg

 

Starting with the rear of the chassis I'm using big honk'n Speedway 3/8" ball bearings and K&B bearing housings for the rear axle:

 

CobraBuild-10.jpg

 

1/2" X 1/32" brass strip was drilled for the housings..........

 

chassis-27.jpg

 

......and soldered to "pin tube" frame rails:

 

chassis-31.jpg

 

Next up, all this goes into my Rick's jig............


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#2 slotbaker

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 09:02 PM

Very cool, as per usual.

:popcorm1:

 

As a kid I read an article in one of the magazines of the day showing how to build a DC65 powered Cobra (sidewinder), but could never had the $s to by a motor.

Wish I could find that article now.... I've now got a motor for it.


Steve King


#3 dc-65x

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 09:40 PM

Thanks Steve.

 

I know of an R&C magazine article by Bob Braverman where he builds a 1/32 Cobra with a DC-65 sidewinder. Could that be the one???


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#4 Gator Bob

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 09:57 PM

A Lenz 289 would be a cool motor too.


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                            Bob Israelite

#5 slotbaker

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 11:01 PM

Rick, That's possible, but I thought it was 24th... Twas a long time ago.
:)


Steve King


#6 Gator Bob

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 11:17 PM

Rick,

As usual you are raising (resetting) the bar in quality and perfection of one off builds. This one with your trade name for power. :good:


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#7 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 February 2014 - 11:57 PM

This one is gonna be fun! :D Inline namesake motor....... :dance3:  Along with all the right vintage parts... Awesome.

 

Really obvious question regarding removing the endplates Rick, seeing as they're not magnetic you don't have to worry about having to zap the magnet to bring it back up? You only have to do that if you remove the armature I take it ...



#8 dc-65x

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 04:42 PM

I ended up taking the armature out but I left the laminations as arranged by the factory and the magnet installed.......hoping for an easier motor re-assembly. Even with the arm removed and reinstalled the motor still had a gauss reading in the high 200's when reassembled. I did a re-zap and the gauss reading jumped to the high 300's.

 

Back at my Rick's Jig, the chassis starts to take shape with the main rails, front and rear axles. The motor is covered in tape to keep the acid flux nasties off and the rear axle is aligned to the armature shaft with my custom alignment gizmo:

 

chassis-3.jpg

 

Here's the basic chassis before putting the "buff" to it:

 

chassis-6.jpg

 

Like some builders in the period magazines I tried to make the chassis like a full size race car's tube space frame:

 

chassis-5.jpg

 

Hopefully, it didn't end up looking like this instead :shok: :laugh2:

 

chassis-32.jpg

 

Here it is blinged out:

 

chassis-7.jpg

 

Front body mount:

 

chassis-11.jpg

 

Rear body mount - axle brace:

 

chassis-10.jpg

 

Drop arm hinge tubes:

 

chassis-8.jpg

 

Next up is the drop arm.........


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#9 SlotStox#53

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Posted 17 February 2014 - 06:34 PM

Rezap to bring it up to full power... gotcha Rick :good: Thanks.. Loving the chassis !



#10 dc-65x

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 06:17 PM

My first inline DC-65X was built as a lightweight and it is pretty fast. It was fast enough and light enough to wheelie out of the slot exiting the bank at full tilt boogie on the Blue King. The resounding BAM into the dead man wall brought a hush over the raceway. :o

 

PittmanDC-65HSC-076.jpg

 

PittmanDC-65HSC-081.jpg

 

Note the drop arm of just 2 pieces of pin tube? The car was rebuilt with 1/8" thickness of lead on the drop arm:

 

PittmanDC-65HSC-087.jpg

 

So, for the new build I went heavyweight with 4 rails, lots of solder and 1/16" brass plate. The 3/32" pivot tube was tapped 1-64 for machine screw that secure it to the chassis:

 

chassis-13.jpg

 

The guide holder is a machined down Dynamic #315 "double groove bearing":

 

chassis-14.jpg

 

The drop arm installed:

 

chassis-15.jpg

 

The guide lead is only 7/16" and that was pushing the guide flag as far as possible but still keeping it "not visible in front of the body when viewed from the top":

 

chassis-17.jpg

 

Next the Cobra needed some big honk'n side pipes. While I was at it I decided I could add some extra weight down low with 1/8" brass rod with 5/32" aluminum slip on "pipes:"

 

chassis-19.jpg

 

5/32" tube to mount the side pipes down low:

 

chassis-20.jpg

 

The pipes on the chassis:

 

chassis-21.jpg

 

Time to assemble the "roller"........


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#11 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 February 2014 - 06:32 PM

Honking side pipes and a hefty drop arm, that should keep the Pittman motor from taco'ing itself like your lightweight racer did..

Chassis is coming along great Rick :D

#12 dc-65x

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Posted 19 February 2014 - 07:12 PM

Putting the all the pieces together: The loose tires are urethane K&B repops from Pauls Slot Car Shop of Canada:

 

CobraBuild-7.jpg

 

For wheel inserts I used some Monogram wheels from their Ferrari 275P model kit, Dynamic knock-offs and 5-40 set screws to attach the them together:

 

CobraRoller-.jpg

 

The Monogram wheels were turned down to 1/2" and drilled and tapped 5-40:

 

CobraBuild-.jpg

 

All the bits assembled together. The front wheels were modified to be "free wheeling":

 

CobraRoller-1.jpg

 

The guide is a Classic and the lead wires are Cox superflex controller fuse wires:

 

chassis-26.jpg

 

The finished roller:

 

CobraRoller-7.jpg

 

CobraRoller-6.jpg

 

CobraRoller-9.jpg

 

My Tamiya paint just showed up from Tower Hobbie............no more excuses not to paint the body.  :o  WAIT, here's one. It's too cold to paint. It will be sunny and warmer this weekend. I better wait. :laugh2:


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#13 slotbaker

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 05:42 AM

WOW....

:wub:


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#14 dc-65x

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 07:19 PM

Thanks Steve :)

 

To mount the body I used some 1/4" X 1/4" styrene, unknown vintage 4-40 brass body mount gizmos, Revell 4-40 brass screws and some itty bitty 4-40 set screws to use as stops for the Revell screws. The screws bottom out on the little setscrews so the body can "rattle fit" the chassis:

 

chassis-18.jpg

 

All of the above is screwed to the chassis and a bead of JB Weld metal filled epoxy is lathered onto the top of the plastic pieces. The body is set on the chassis and when the epoxy cures a fillet of epoxy was applied to reinforce the mounts. It's a bit ugly but will look fine when it's all painted:

 

CobraBody-.jpg

 

It's also really strong :D

 

Time for a test drive :dance3:

 

cobrabody2.jpg

 

cobrabody3.jpg


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#15 Alchemist

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 09:04 PM

Hi Rick!

 

Hope all is well!  What a gorgeous piece of work - as usual!

 

Knowing you have to travel far to get to your local track - LOL -  How did the test drive go please?

 

Ernie


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#16 dc-65x

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Posted 20 February 2014 - 10:30 PM

Hi Ernie,

 

When I first put it on the track, "it looked pretty canine to me" :o

 

The motor sounded great on the power supply and the rear axle would spin forever like it was a perpetual motion machine. The bevel gears had a bit of back lash so they weren't set up too tightly but the car ran like a dog. :dash2:

 

I lifted the rear wheels of the track, gave the car full power and it just sounded terrible. Low RPM's and lots of gear noise. I double checked the gear free play and it was OK. As I was pondering this terrible noise, all of a sudden picked up a bit of speed. Hmmmmmmmmmm........I thought, "it's a Pittman and it probably won't blow up if I keep it wide open a bit longer". Then another increase in speed and decrease in gear noise. :wacko2:

 

I kept this up until the car sounded like it should. Now the car had the speed of my other inline 65X and the gears sounded fine. I've used lapping compound to smooth out gears before but never a "full RPM, no lube, free wheeling blast". :laugh2:

 

Anyway, the car now has good speed and it even handles great. The handling was a pleasant surprise since the car is so short and skinny. I'm really happy! :dance3:

 

 

 

 


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#17 Jairus

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 01:39 AM

Takes time to wear them in. Or... work them in.
Either way, the car looks great.
Good luck painting that beasty.

I've got two hard body cars here that I'm painting soon as I can find the time.
 


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#18 dc-65x

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Posted 21 February 2014 - 11:35 AM

 

Good luck painting that beasty.

 

Thanks Jairus, I'll need it. :o I'm going rattle can on this one.......we'll see.


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#19 Mark H

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 12:16 PM

that looks great! i must say that looks like a real 1:1 car sitting there even unfinished.


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#20 dc-65x

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 05:18 PM

Thanks Mark!

 

Good luck painting that beasty.

 

 

I got it primed and painted a beautiful Tamiya Bright Mica Red but............I ran out of luck Jairus. Just when I thought I'd nailed it I see a run in the left rear fender. :dash2: You can just see it in this picture about half way up. :o

 

cobrabody1.jpg

 

I don't know about sanding it out and polishing. I fear I'll just make it worse. :wacko2:  Maybe I should just slap a decal on it. :laugh2:

 

I really struggle with these "hardbody" builds. Give me a vac body like this one any day. :dance3:

 

Lotus19Special179.jpg


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#21 Jairus

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 05:23 PM

If it's still wet,  you can sometimes take a flat brush and pull the sag out. 
Wet sanding is always an option later. But wait till MUCH later!
Then hit the thing with a clear coat after the decals are applied.


Or... as you suggest. Put a decal on the sag. That works too.


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#22 dc-65x

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 05:44 PM

Hi Jairus,

 

Clear coat after sanding, hmmmmm......

 

The decals are Pattos that will be coated with Testors Clear Laquer before being applied.

 

What clear coat would you recommend over the paint and decals?


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#23 Jairus

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 09:25 PM

There are many options.
I gave you my phone number a while back. 
Still willing to talk.

J


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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 09:37 PM

Thanks for your offer of help. I thought it would be nice to share your expertise with not only me but our fellow Slotblogers.


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#25 Jairus

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:08 PM

Okay:

#1 There is a polishing kit that contains cloth backed sanding squares from 600 to 10,000 grit plus a bottle of polishing compound that makes Maguiar's look like tooth paste.

The original in the hobby was called "Millennium 2000". That is off the market unfortunately. 
Today the best that can be had is this.
 

#2 You could lightly wet sand the fender and take down the sag with 600 to 1000 grit. Then after the decals are applied, lightly spray a coat of Testors Glosscote rattle can.
Not too much or the decals will react and lift.

30 minutes later spray another light coat.

30 minutes later spray a medium coat and don't worry too much about the orange peel effect.
30 minutes later shoot a heavier coat and let it sit over night.
Next day I hog on the last of the paint in a couple coats about an hour apart. Then let it sit a week or more to cure.
If you get a drip or sag.... go to #1.
If it works... you are in like Flynn!

That's what I do.

#3 Involves buying industrial clear-coat that requires a hardener mixed in.  Any unused paint has to be tossed. The total cost of the paint (quarts usually) could match the cost of the total project, but... it works really well and all plastic has to be totally sealed to prevent reaction.


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#26 dc-65x

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:15 PM

I think I'll get that polishing kit and try it. I could move on to #2 if I don't get the results I'm after......I think that is "Korrect"?

 

We thank you Jairus!

 

Any guess as to how long to wait before I try to sand the Tamiya lacquer?


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#27 Jairus

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Posted 23 February 2014 - 10:35 PM

I'd wait a few days just make sure.

Not completely convinced that the paint is lacquer, but rather an acrylic lacquer that would take longer to cure than an old school lacquer.
You could take a sharp item and poke at it in a day or so to see if it's totally hard all the way through.  Use magnifiers to see the effect for sure.

Or... you could just try to wet sand (block sand) and if you get any boogers building up,  stop!!! Then wait for the paint to totally dry before sanding further.

This is why I hate painting hard bodies and why I quit building model cars. 
 


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#28 dc-65x

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 12:17 PM

 

This is why I hate painting hard bodies and why I quit building model cars.


Does that mean you won't paint my Cox Gurney Stocker replica?  :laugh2:

 

Just kidding! I know you're tired of the hard bodies.........although if you ever change your mind I'd be first in line :dance3:

 

Thank you again for your help. :)

 

 

 

 


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#29 Jairus

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Posted 24 February 2014 - 04:37 PM

Rick, I've been building model cars since 1968.  Painting them since the mid 70's and never had fun doing it. Screwed up more paint than I made work. Mostly due to lack of patience or good body prep.
Actually managed "best paint" award a few times...  and been passed over when I thought my paint was actually better.
But the best paint award that I lost to one year in Salt Lake City was given to a guy, a friend, who simply rattle canned it.
We talked later and he said he rarely airbrushes or rubs out the paint.

His trick?  Warming the can of paint in a pan of hot tap water and always using a fresh new can for each project.
Guess I forgot to mention that.
It also helps if you paint in a dry non-humid climate where the temp is 60 to 75 degrees.

More misc. ramblings.
Prep is also very important as these are plastic bodies which attract dust like a magnet.
So I wash the body prior to painting and let it air dry in a dust free area. Then bag the thing so no dust can fall on it till you are ready to shoot paint. But don't ever let plastic bags touch the clear coat. That willl leave marks. 

Some guys actually use a dehydrator to cure the paint.
You know... the plastic stackable kind?  They cut out the centers of enough rings to allow a body and the paint stand to fit inside and then fire the thing up.  It cures the paint in half the time and keeps dust out.

 

Me, I just use a wire hanger for a paint stand.

I bend it so it holds the body right side up and can be hung upside down with the hook still in place. I use an abandon plant hanger hook on the celing of the bunker.  That way it's out of the way for at least a week to allow the paint to cure.

 

I heard that Testors has a new forumula for their Lacquer Glosscote.  I stopped by the hobby shop a week ago and they were out and it was on order.
After I get the decals on my "Total Performance '64 Galaxie NASCAR" I'll be needing some of that new paint.
I'll start a thread soon as the clear is curing and then I can start soldering up the chassis.

 


 


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#30 dc-65x

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 06:49 PM

Waffle, waffle, waffle........I've been waffling long enough about repainting the car because of a small sag in the rear fender. :wacko2:

 

I'm not a hard body guy. I decided to quit while I was ahead. Meaning, the body is painted red and I decided to move forward with what I had rather than repaint it and maybe make it worse.  :shok: Besides the Tamiya paint shrunk up quite a bit over the weeks so the sag a lot smaller. :laugh2:

 

It was decal time:

 

cobrabody8.jpg

 

I'm using Patto's Place Krause Cobra decals sprayed with a coat of Testors Gloss Coat Lacquer. The proportions of the AMT body required me to use 1/24 side number decals but the nose and tail decals were too big. I for that, I used the smaller 1/32 numbers:

 

cobrabody6.jpg

 

I was quite surprised to find that Microscale Micro Set Decal Solvent attacked the well cured paint. :dash2: Luckily I caught it in time and it's all good.

 

Time to put all the pieces together........... :dance3:


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#31 Jairus

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Posted 06 April 2014 - 08:05 PM

Looks good Rick!  You are well on your way now.


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#32 mdiv

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 07:14 PM

Great job Rick!

 

Mikey


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#33 dc-65x

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 08:33 PM

Thanks guys. I feel like I'm mostly trying to keep from ruining the darn thing as I "progress" from one part of construction to another. It is kind of fun though. :crazy:

 

Since I'm a real hardbody nubie I'm going to show a few things that I think look kind of neat that any bone head like me can do. It will probably make any real modeler cringe though! :laugh2:


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#34 SlotStox#53

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 08:39 PM

Looking great Rick! Only done a couple of hard body kits before and painting them can be a real pain in the *** :laugh2:

 

Have heard of warming the rattle can up in water before, Dad used to do that when he did auto paint repair at home, seemed to work great :good:



#35 dc-65x

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Posted 07 April 2014 - 08:52 PM

Hi Paul,

 

Yup, I heat a rattle can too. Jairus gave some really good tips on rattle can painting on the previous page. Knowing what to do is a bonus for sure, thanks Jairus. :victory:


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#36 Paul Jurczyszyn

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Posted 08 April 2014 - 03:34 PM

Those big motors kill me....lol I still can't see them in slot cars trains yes .
You don't need weight lol......
Parma Paul
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#37 dc-65x

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 06:34 PM

Thanks guys. I feel like I'm mostly trying to keep from ruining the darn thing as I "progress" from one part of construction to another. It is kind of fun though. :crazy:

 

Since I'm a real hardbody nubie I'm going to show a few things that I think look kind of neat that any bone head like me can do. It will probably make any real modeler cringe though! :laugh2:

 

OK, here is some "bone head" modeling, not to be compared to what REAL modelers are showing on Slotblog......PLEASE :laugh2:

 

I cut the top most part off the front and rear of the model kit interior and glued them to a piece of sheet plastic. That's an unknown model kit steering wheel cut up, a Monogram driver's figure cut from some interior piece and an unknown drivers head.

 

CobraRoller-3.jpg

 

I've seen master modelers do fantastic things to dash board gauges with a technique called, I think, "dry brushing". Here's my "bone head" approach. Stick on some of my wife's craft stickers and spray the whole thing with Testors dull coat:

 

cobrabody7.jpg

 

Hey, at least the gauges are filled in with something. :crazy:

 

Moving on, thank goodness for this little aftermarket resin racing windshield and frame:

 

CobraBuild-2.jpg

 

Simply gluing it in place and it's just like the real car:

 

cobrabody11.jpg

 

I thought the model kit racing gas cap was a P.O.S. so I did some soldering and filing to make my own:

 

CobraRoller-4.jpg

 

I tired something to help my crappy paint and decal job look better and it worked beyond my wildest dreams:

 

cobrabody9.jpg

 

A brushed on coat of floor wax worked miracles. The paint took on a high gloss. The decals blended much better into the paint and the cast resin windscreen became crystal clear...........amazing! :dance3:

 

Sticking on sticks, with this stuff, all the detail parts to be painted made things easier for my shaky paint brush:

 

Race3Chassis95.jpg

 

cobrabody10.jpg

 

I put all the pieces together, trying to rescue the project from disaster from one part to the next. :shok: I used too much ZAP glue on the dash board to body install and had to touch up the paint.  Too much glue again on a tail light and it got all over the fender. Maybe I should USE LESS GLUE! :dash2: Then I nicked a number decal installing the gas cap.

 

The good news is it's finished and held at arms length I like it :D

 

CobraFinished11.jpg

 

CobraFinished12.jpg

 

CobraFinished8.jpg

 

The model kit turn signals were junk so I use some polished and painted stainless steel socket head cap screws:

 

CobraFinished10.jpg

 

1/16" aluminum rod for a roll bar:

 

CobraFinished7.jpg

 

Best of all, with this running gear........

 

CobraFinished13.jpg

 

.....it runs great!

 

CobraFinished1.jpg

 

Thanks for looking :)

 

Onward...........


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#38 mdiv

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 06:54 PM

Outstanding!!!

 

:good:


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#39 SlotStox#53

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 06:56 PM

Rick, don't beat yourself up over any perceived mess ups or hick ups you've encountered! Take it from me your Cobra looks a millions $$$ :good: :D :D I Love it.

 

That little resin windshield & mount really did the trick & subtle use of Mrs. Rick's crafting supplies :D :laugh2: The dials really look like dials .



#40 dc-65x

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:11 PM

Thanks. It's just that all the boo boos should have been easily avoided.......But, I guess hindsight really is 20/20.


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#41 SlotStox#53

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:15 PM

Remember seeing your wonderful "filler caps" on your 4wd Iso R&C build , thought it was the neatest/simplest little touches.... May try it sometime :good:



#42 mdiv

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:27 PM

Rick don't sell yourself short.  I have yet to see something come out of the Captain's Quarters that doesn't make me drool...LOL! :)

I think the only one that made me wince was the Harvey that got all bent up, but even the picture of destruction looked better than any of my best builds!


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#43 Pete L.

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 07:56 PM

Rick,

 

 Super job on a real classic racer !!!


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#44 Jairus

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 10:49 PM

That looks great!
A lot of guys would add a tarp cover over the passenger seat to avoid the interior details and smooth out the air flow.  Just a suggestion.

Sort of like this....
P1011334-vi.jpg
But... not exactly of course.  :laugh2:


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#45 Mark Johnson

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 02:51 AM

Rick how deep is that beauty geared  4.5 or so ?



#46 dc-65x

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 10:12 AM

Mark, that gear does look big! I had to go back and check and she's geared 4:1.

 

Putting the all the pieces together: The loose tires are urethane K&B repops from Pauls Slot Car Shop of Canada:
 
CobraBuild-7.jpg

 

Hi Jairus,

 

Neat Rat Rod!

 

Could you please tell me how to make a tonneau cover like that? This car raced without one but I need one for an upcoming build. It really looks super on your model.

 

Rick

 

 

 


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#47 Jairus

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 01:46 PM

How I would do it is use the plunge method (Not vacuum), by stretching a sheet of PETG over a frame and warming it over a stove burner till it started drooping.
Then drop the frame over the model car.  After cooling, trim to suit and cut a hole for the driver to stick out of.

The one and only way to keep the model car body from melting is to coat the inside with modeling clay. That way the heat is sinked out of the plastic quickly and won't melt the plastic body.

 

That tonneau cover was from an AMT Parts Pac for a fuel altered. The body, tonneau and steering wheel were all from that kit. 


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#48 Pablo

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 02:12 PM

That Cobra is bad to the Bone, Capt Rick it doesn't get any more SANO than that :icon22: :drinks:


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#49 dc-65x

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 04:26 PM

Thanks Pablo :)

 

Holy Smokes Jairus! :shok: Thanks for the info...but.....I think I really didn't want a tonnaue cover anyway :laugh2:


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#50 slotbaker

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Posted 13 April 2014 - 06:08 PM

Could you please tell me how to make a tonneau cover like that? This car raced without one but I need one for an upcoming build. It really looks super on your model.

 

 

 

Another suggestion I've seen on a modelling site, but can't find the link again.

 

They stretched some kitchen cling film over the body, using as support, then cut a large enough piece from one of the girlfriend's old stockings and tape it in place, then coat it with araldite, or some other resin.

 

When set, cut it to the desired shape/size and paint.

:huh:


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