6 replies to this topic

[geardriven]

I have a situation and am turning to the membership for suggestions and technical advise.
Situation: About 6 or so of us oldtimers go out to a local hobby shop that has a large 4-lane Scalextric track. We race competitively, but as friends first. You will find an abundance of mostly Scalextric, Fly and a few Slot.it cars behind used. All of the cars are modified in a variety of dimensions which results in very spirited racing with some very fast cars.
We have a loyal friend in the group who is not the best to be financially (between jobs & typical bills) and runs a bare-bone Revell-Monogram car and continuously gets "spanked".
I have a spare car and I would like to build him a track car that will be competitve with the others. I know in my heart he goes home disappointed, but always has a smile on his face.
I know we could give him a sorted out "hand-me-down" car, but want him to have a car of his own.
I would like to look at a set of performance/modifications in incremental steps. The only limitations are that the modifications must be bolt-on/snap-in and the car retains it original look.
The car we are starting out with is a Fly Fast Kit of the yellow CR6 Corvette.
I understand that the Fly cars typically need an extraordinary amount "sorting-out" or tuning. With that, I would like to ask for comments in Step (1).

Step (1) - Please comment on any tuning issues to look for on these Fly Fast Kits.....e.g. Tire rub, plastic flash, general slop, etc. and any suggestions of correction or upgrade.

Step (2) - The first actual modification we are considering in a motor upgrade and rear silicone tires. I am with the understanding that the Slot-it end bell drive "S" can motors are a direct snap-in. Wiring/soldering is not a concern.
Secondly, can some suggest a set of silicone tires that will fit the stock wheels.
Since we cannot open the box (as the car is being given as a gift) can anyone suggest the correct tooth pinion and maker, e.g. Slot.it..etc. that will work with the stock spur gear.
Step (3). - I am with the understanding that improvement can be made in the area of the flag/guide and that a solid front axle replacement will address slop found in the stub axle area.
With the replacement of the front axle, I presume wheel and tire placement would result.
Can anyone suggest front axle, wheel and tire replacement, together with rear axle, rear wheel, rear tire and spur gear replacement (# of teeth) and brand names, etc. of all the components?
I would suspect this would be the limit of modifications. If their are any intermediate suggestions, ideas, etc.....they would be greatly appreciated.
I ask for specific modifications and part number, in that we are working on a limited budget and the cost of ordering and" trying" parts would be costly and is the reason we are looking for "tried and true" combinations....
Thanks for any and all suggestions.

[TG Racing]

I would go to Slot Car Corner's web site.  They have a lot of "go fast stuff".

[gascarnut]

The Fly Corvettes are front motored, so it is going to be very difficult to make enough mods to keep up with the sidewinders and even the Slot.it inline cars.

I understand that this is to be a gift, but I think that you are giving the guy a headache rather than a fun project

[Tim Neja]

I would also try to get to a different car than a front motored Fly!!! These just will NOT handle with the rear motored ones.  Just TOO many problems that will not allow them to be competitive with standard drive cars.  I'd go with a Slot it ---then add what ever tires etc you need for the track you run on.

[geardriven]

Thanks to all of you for your replies. I was not aware that the Fly Corvette possessed that engine configuration and without checking, presumed it was a sidewinder. Never no sense in trying to make this Corvette work....
I understand that a sidewinder responds with Porsche 911-type rear engine handling.
I personally have one of the high-impact Scalextric Porsche 997s that put me to sleep after about (3) laps. After an engine upgrade, silicones and an extra magnet, the car turned into a beast and become blindingly fast and get 110% of my attention..
I think I have a new Scalextric Dodge Challenger which I believe is a sidewinder.
OK....lets hypothetically say, we change the car to a sidewinder Scalextric car and apply the same set of questions......
Suggestions....?????????.....recommendations......???????

[justDave]

I think you'd find quite a few Fly upgrading articles on the web with a little searching. But in the meantime, Fly Classics are a very popular class for 1/32 clubs in the UK - but the competitive cars are the sidewinders, rather than the front-motored cars. With the sidewinders I would suggest:
- gluing in the motor pod
- putting in a solid front axle
- replacing the pinion and crown gear with Slot.It upgrades
- replacing the appalling rear tyres with something that suits your track surface
- and of course the usual truing and gluing of tyres, gluing the motor in, replacing the braids with something softer, loosening of body mount screws, sanding the edges of the chassis to allow body rock, etc.

I wouldn't upgrade the motor until you've done all this - the cars can be made to go pretty quickly without more power, and of course no amount of power will help a poor-handling car.

NB: all the suggestions above relate to no-magnet racing!

David

[Ramcatlarry]

I'm with dave....in our Great Lakes club, we race similar (grouped) cars with only PPR silicones and a bit of lead for ballast and no magnets.  Front engine cars are a class by themselves-most have the motors blocking a pass-thru front axle.  We also keep the engine mods down - over 25K is much harder to drive than the basic 20K stock motors. If anything, we have more fun changing the motors to NC-1/JackRabbit >15K motors - especially on pre- 1973 era sports and F1 cars.

 

True the wheels.  trim the front tires and coat them with nail polish to lower the nose and get the most flag IN the slot. limit front axle rock to eliminate the tricycle effect.