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#1 Jeff Fischl

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 09:28 PM

Too many different tech blocks... any suggestions?

Would like to try my hand at building a winged car and/or upkeep on both my 1/32 and 1/24 cars.




#2 Samiam

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 09:51 PM

Rick's R-Geo basic jig and a good set of jig wheels.
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#3 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 10:23 PM

If you're looking for a chassis jig, I agree with Sam. Is that what you want?


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How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#4 Gator Bob

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 11:04 PM

For a tech block I use:
 
Ultimate Racing Products ULT-9725 The 'Ultimate' anodized aluminum tech and straightening block. Includes machined recesses of .005',.010', .015', .020', .025' .030', and .035'. Guaranteed to be flat!!

Paid $32.95.
 
ult.jpg
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                            Bob Israelite

#5 Steve McCready

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 10:57 AM

Yea like Bob said ! I have been real happy with the Ultimate Tech block pictured above!

seems pricey buy as you can see it has uses for braid depth comes in handy!

its heavy and solid dont drop it in your foot!



#6 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 11:13 AM

Is it that wide the Ultimate Tech block?  Seen pictures of it before and wondered if they had pictured 2 block side by side!:laugh2: 

 

I thought it was a single block with the other 2 slots/braid depth cut outs on the reverse side :)



#7 John Streisguth

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 11:19 AM

Paul, that is indeed two blocks side by side.  Each side has 4 different depths.

 

And April fools day was 2 days ago!  :laugh2: :crazy:


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#8 Gator Bob

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 11:21 AM

Is it that wide the Ultimate Tech block?  Seen pictures of it before and wondered if they had pictured 2 block side by side! :laugh2:

 

I thought it was a single block with the other 2 slots/braid depth cut outs on the reverse side :)

 

It is double-sided ... one of the 'moderators' decided to edit my post and put up a picture that they like better.


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#9 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 11:51 AM

Paul, that is indeed two blocks side by side.  Each side has 4 different depths.

 

And April fools day was 2 days ago!  :laugh2: :crazy:

:laugh2: :sarcastic_hand:  Thanks !



#10 Jeff Fischl

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 12:15 PM

Thanks

just didnt want to spend money twice,don't mind paying for something thats worth its weight in gold.



#11 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 02:40 PM

I'm looking for a block to be multi-purpose: installing bodies, and soldering/installing motors - I've seen Bill Pinch use one with magnets for pinning flexi bodies but it looked plastic and wouldn't fare well for soldering.  I saw one on PCH site that was corian with a short slot, and grooved where the wheels and braid go...Does everyone use multiple blocks? 


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#12 Hipsticker

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 10:02 PM

Yes most do use a few..best look at what others use then ask them where to get it..
Aluminum isnt good to solder on.. Even putting in motors.. The aluminum soaks up all the heat and wont let the CAR get hot.. Took me a while till someone saw me and said no no..corian or phenolic? Block good for soldering on.. Wood is meh.. It will get warped up and gooey real quick.
Hope this helps
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#13 Cap Henry

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 06:16 AM

I use 3 blocks, a plastic body block, a wood block with nice finish for checking clearances, and I have a corian block that I use the cut out side for installing motors and the non cut out side for checking a chassis for bends.

I don't use a block with braid depths, I just check cars on the track in a few different spots since most tracks aren't perfect. Just my preference

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#14 Danny Zona

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 08:44 AM

I totally agree with Cap on checking cars on the track for braid depths. I gave my tech block with braid depths on it away.
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#15 Pablo

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 09:11 AM

Aluminum isnt good to solder on.. Even putting in motors.. The aluminum soaks up all the heat and wont let the CAR get hot.. 

Gary, the car in my avatar was built on a Briggs Jig (aluminum).

post-91-0-47958700-1361400175.jpg

 

I solder on aluminum no problemo, all the time. Solder doesn't stick to it.  You can easily scribe permanent alignment marks in it also.  When something doesn't need to be flat, I prefer wood.  When I need alignment I use a Ricks. When I mount GTP bodies on flexis I use an ABC.  For mounting wing bodies I use a Champion with wheel recesses. Some day I'd like to own some of those ultra-cool Precision jigs and jig wheels that are chassis-specific. 


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#16 CoastalAngler1

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 12:47 PM

Decisions, decisions...like these?

 

http://www.e-slotcar...-blue-jk-psbbl/

 

http://www.e-slotcar...block-psc-1900/

 

http://www.e-slotcar...block-ult-9735/


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#17 Guy Spaulding

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 02:23 PM

In my book, more than one block is needed.  I like a flat, narrow block for cutting and fitting bodies. A slate block for soldering, an aluminum block with 4 guide depth guages for setting the guide height.  

 

But if you really must go with one block, buy the Blue JK-PSBBL shown above.  It works well if you pre-cut your bodies, and is nice and flat for checking ride height.  But you must be careful not to damage it if you solder motors on it.


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#18 drrufo

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 03:47 PM

 I just bought a honeycomb ceramic block to solder in. It is delicate like all ceramics but it should be perfect for my soldering resistors together. It is added to my collection of chassis building jigs, mounting jigs and flat plates.


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#19 Bill from NH

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 04:10 PM

Gary, the car in my avatar was built on a Briggs Jig (aluminum).

 

 

The Briggs Jig itself has a minimal amount of aluminium & you've probably using an aluminium sheet on it less than 1/16" thick. Now, if you had a jig built of 1/4" aluminum plate, such as the Ultimate ones, you'd have a great heatsink for your irons. As an aside, soldering acid eats aluminum. I think any jig being soldered on should be made of phenolic or one of the solid surfacing materials, such as corian. My only exception to that would be Butch's Magna Jiggy. It's not made for chassis building & you're only going to solder aligned bushings & bearings on a stamped steel chassis using it.


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How old should a highway be before you tell it, that it has been adopted?


#20 macman

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Posted 28 December 2014 - 07:03 PM

I use 4, plastic w/magnets for mounting bodies, Ricks ultimate for building chassis, aluminum for various things, & I also have a couple of pieces of marble for soldering on.


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