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Total Performance Baldwin-Motion King Cobra


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#1 dc-65x

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 04:32 PM

This is my second car built for the Total Performance theme.

TotalPerformancePost-6.jpg

Below is a link explaining this theme:

Total Performance Era

It’s another Cobra roadster but this time it’s a famous 427 Drag Cobra, the Baldwin-Motion King Cobra:

KingCobra-jpg19.jpg

KingCobra-jpg18.jpg

 

KingCobra-jpg21.jpg

I’ve been saving this model kit of the real car:

KingCobra-jpg27.jpg

 

KingCobra-jpg28.jpg

Here’s the motor I’ll be using in this beast, a RAM 850 12V:

KingCobra-jpg2.jpg

Hmmmmmmmmmm……12 volt………hmmmmm……….that will never do!

 

How about this, a 3 volt replacement arm instead:

 

KingCobra-jpg3.jpg

 

 

Check out the difference in the wire size between the 12V on the left and the 3V on the right. Rodney called the 3V, "ten turns of coat hanger wire!"  :laugh2:

 

KingCobra-jpg5.jpg

 

Next up is the motor build..........


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#2 Mark Johnson

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 04:39 PM

Replace the mag with a chunk of neo level 52 and hang on!!!!



#3 Mark Johnson

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 05:01 PM

Are you going to sculpt the lams and lighten the side plates ?



#4 SlotStox#53

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 05:33 PM

Very nice car to do for the total performance series! That RAM is a beast, even more so with that 3 volt arm :D

What size shaft has that hot arm got Rick?
The 3 volt arms I've messed with that were made by RAM for Kemtron were 3/32 ..

#5 dc-65x

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 05:39 PM

Are you going to sculpt the lams and lighten the side plates ?

 

The side plate are going to need to be strong so no lightening. All will be revealed soon........ :victory:

 

What size shaft has that hot arm got Rick?

 

It's 1/8" Paul.


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#6 SlotStox#53

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 06:04 PM

Thanks Rick, good to know :good: They certainly did a lot of different spec arms for their own motor line & others. it's hard to get to grips with em all ! :laugh2:

Seems their own 3 volt got the larger shaft than the Kemtron range, unless they also did a RAM 3 volt for the Mustang..

#7 dc-65x

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 09:09 PM

First thing was to make sure the armature shaft was straight. Then I checked the static balance. The same pole kept swinging to the bottom so it got the drill balance treatment:

 

KingCobra-jpg7.jpg

 

Next up are these beauties. I'm using the heaviest of the 3 different springs:

 

KingCobra-jpg8.jpg

 

Then a pair of ball bearings with the shields and grease removed. I had to drill and ream the motor end plates to .2495" as the stock bushings are just 7/32".

 

Removal of the stock bushings and installation of the ball bearings was a snap with the vintage Dynamic bearing tool:

 

KingCobra-jpg6.jpg

 

I also drilled and tapped two 2-56 holes in each end plate because they are going to mount the motor to the chassis. This motor is going in an inline chassis.

 

When I reassembled the motor I discovered the factory had other motor mounting ideas. The motor's front and rear end plate surfaces were not parallel. So the chassis would not be square.......crud.

 

The motor came apart again and the end plates back surfaces were lapped flat and the front surfaces were machined flat:

 

KingCobra3.jpg

 

Now the motor is good to go:

 

KingCobra38.jpg

 

KingCobra37.jpg

 

KingCobra36.jpg

 

The motor sounds pretty good on the power supply. We'll see soon how it runs........


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#8 SlotStox#53

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Posted 14 June 2014 - 10:48 PM

Very nice bit of motor tuning, the drill balanced arm looks sweet.. looks like you tied & epoxied it too.

Should be a screamer :D

#9 don.siegel

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 04:59 AM

Another great project Rick. That photo showing the two arm wire sizes is downright poetic! 

 

(Paul, a Ram 3V arm for a Kemtron? show and tell please!)

 

Rick, having just experienced an overpowered motor in a short coupled chassis for the padlock proxy drag, I suggest you plan for lots of weight up front on that Cobra! Of course, as an inline maybe it won't jump out too easily, but still, sounds like it's going to be a torque monster.... 

 

Don 



#10 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 06:45 AM

:laugh2: will dig out a picture Don, but if you can dig through the Drag Proxy thread the RAM/Kemtron 3 volt arm is in the Inch Pincher Bug :good:

Just needed a stronger magnet, lighter spring and 3:1 gears to of been quicker.

Would probably think this car "maybe" ok as its inline, but could prove interesting off the line :D

#11 dc-65x

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 11:02 AM

...... looks like you tied & epoxied it too.
 

 

Right Paul, I tied the comm wires with Kevlar thread, piled on the Devcon 2-Ton epoxy and hit it with a heat gun. The epoxy just sucked into the windings.

 

This car is REALLY short and has almost no guide lead. It is certainly not the "smart" choice for a fast drag car......but I can't help myself. I like the darn thing!

 

I am trying the inline configuration in the hopes it will help the cars off the performance. I'm also setting the massive motor a bit farther forward.

 

 

............I suggest you plan for lots of weight up front on that Cobra!

 

Don, I got room in front of the axle for added weight. Maybe I should just plan on needing it and install some kind of a mount to add varying amounts of weight.

 

Hmmmmmm...................


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#12 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 11:39 AM

Your technique with the Devcon and the heatgun sure seems to work, will have to look at doing that with some of these vintage arms,especially these large arms with lots of wire! Got a static balancer too, although with some vintage stuff it's kind of daunting to take a drill to the lams :shok:

 

Would definitely recommend getting the motor further forward that a "normal can motor" inline would be, sure seemed to work for the VW dragster despite the weak magnet. With that RAM motor & full strength magnet & 3 volt arm that thing is liable to rip the tires off! :D

 

Here's the Bug's chassis referencing the motor position :good: The center of gravity is fairly close to the middle of the frame and appeared to help it off the line.

 

Padlock 1.jpg

 

 

Padlock 2.jpg


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#13 Pablo

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 07:49 PM

"with some vintage stuff it's kind of daunting to take a drill to the lams  :shok:" 

You mean like this, Paul ? :

botched arm.jpg

 

Don't try this without a drill press, Bunky  :dash2:  :laugh2:


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#14 dc-65x

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 08:33 PM

I don't know Pablo, he might mean like this :dash2: :wacko2:

 

AristocraftPower026.jpg

 

 

Don't try this without a drill press, Bunky  :dash2:  :laugh2:

 

Good advice  :victory:


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#15 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 08:47 PM

:shok: that's exactly what I mean !!! Ouch!! Those arms are just painful to look at :(

#16 dc-65x

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 08:53 PM

It's was a live and learn experience. I always epoxy my arms now and don't rely on the "varnish" the manufacture smeared on. AND, I look at the web thickness and when the web itself starts to decide on a drill diameter and drilling depth to use.

 

Piece of pie now.......go for it!


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#17 SlotStox#53

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Posted 15 June 2014 - 11:11 PM

I will go for it Rick :good: :D Look forward to seeing what you do for the chassis that's going to be sitting underneath that sweet Cobra body !



#18 dc-65x

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Posted 16 June 2014 - 06:21 PM

Chassis time.........

 

I'm using the motor as a stressed member of the chassis starting with front motor bracket. It was inspired by the Russkit 22 motor brackets and cut and machined from 1/8" brass:

 

KingCobra-jpg20.jpg

 

Next was the drop arm made up from these vintage bits:

 

KingCobra4.jpg

 

The finished drop arm with two 1/16" brass rods, a large drop arm weight and a rod down stop added:

 

KingCobra2.jpg

 

KingCobra1.jpg

 

Four 1/16" brass frame rails added to the front motor mount:

 

KingCobra35.jpg

 

The finished front chassis section with body mount installed:

 

KingCobra42.jpg

 

KingCobra41.jpg

 

I still need to make the hanger for the front "anti-wheelie" weight...............


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#19 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 June 2014 - 07:02 PM

Some heavy industrial style chassis work going on Rick ! Neat idea using the Russkit style of motor brackets, the drop arm is suitably beefy! !

#20 dc-65x

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 10:03 PM

For the rear end I'm using a French 26D rear axle bracket. These things are about an 1/8" longer than say a Russkit bracket and made of steel:

 

KingCobra-jpg4.jpg

 

Here she is all beefed up including the rear body mount:

 

KingCobra44.jpg

 

KingCobra43.jpg

 

Here's all the pieced parts ready to assemble.........once I figure out the front "anti'wheelie" weight mount:

 

KingCobra40.jpg

 

Getting close to "seeing it move". :)


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#21 Champion 507

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 01:54 AM

Sub-assembly required. Batteries not included. Close cover before striking. Action figures sold separately. Your actual mileage may vary. Includes scenes not suitable for younger viewers. Recommended by 4 out of 5 dentists for their patients who chew gum. :sarcastic_hand:

 

All nonsense aside, you are amazing, Rick. Your "imagineering" just gets better with each passing year. :clapping:

 

Ever wonder who that 5th dentist was??? :wacko2:


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#22 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 10:00 AM

 

All nonsense aside, you are amazing, Rick. Your "imagineering" just gets better with each passing year. :clapping:

 

 

 

Double DITTO!!!

 

Outstanding work Rick T.!

Those motor mounts are stunning :shok:  :heart:

 Doing a short run would be a huge hit with the padlock passionate and a sellout. Please consider me on line for a pair if you do.

 

The finished car will Definitely be .. 'Best Engineered', 'Best Appearing' and Ultimate Quality of Workmanship (UQW) material.

 

 

Other: AMT putting Baldwin in the title is a misnomer.

This car was...

  • Owned by Clem Hoppe and run out of his shop in Ridgefield, NJ (go Jersey)
  • 427 powered, Tuned and driven by Joel “Mr. Motion” Rosen in 1965 and 1966.
  • This car did not have any association with the Baldwin Chevrolet dealership in Baldwin, L.I. New York.
  • Joel Rosen's (Motion) association with Baldwin started in late 1966 when the Chevy Camaro was first introduced. The rest is history all the way up to the 454 Vega.  

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#23 Marty N

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 12:40 PM

Oh can't wait to see this one as a roller. Just lovely.


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#24 dc-65x

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 02:35 PM

Guys, here's what she going to be rolling on. Up front, Revell skinny wheels and Goodyear front tires. I at first used some McMaster Carr big o-rings (same as used by Riggen) but I wanted the sidewall detail of the skinny Revell Goodyears:

 

KingCobra-jpg14.jpg

 

For the rear, I'm using Russkit Dragster set screw wheels and some beautiful MDC silicone drag slicks. The front axle is an unknown (to me) independent rotating job. Unlike the Ulrich version that has the axles staked in place by a few punch marks, this baby has a nice roll crimp all the way around the axle. It doesn't bind when you put a side load on it like an Ulrich:

 

KingCobra-jpg24.jpg

 

Also using Cox precision flanged axle nuts and 3-prong knockoffs:

 

KingCobra-jpg15.jpg

 

Finally, I wanted to make the wheels look something like these:

 

KingCobra-jpg19.jpg

 

The method I use seems to be controversial so others might not like my approach. "Your results may vary" :laugh2:

 

Personally, I'm really unimpressed with threaded wheels and axles especially when used on the driven axle. I'll go through over a dozen NOS axles before I find one that is only a bit "off". I check them by clamping the axle in a collet in my lathe and spinning it slowly.

 

Then there are the wheels themselves. I went through 10 pair of NOS skinny Revell front wheels to find 2 that only wobbled a little. The wheels are machined nicely but they dropped the ball when they threaded them. Also if you have to remove a threaded wheel it will never go back on the axle exactly the same.

 

However, I think the die cast threaded "mag" wheels by Cox, Dynamic, Revell and especially Ulrich are truly beautiful to look at:

 

KingCobra-jpg16.jpg

 

I choose to enhance these wheels by machining off the dreaded threaded mounting system and fitting them into set screw wheels.  Now I have the performance of a set screw wheel with appearance of a threaded die cast wheel:

 

KingCobra-jpg17.jpg

 

I did the same approach with the skinny Revell front wheels as the cast wheels were way to wide. Check out that MDC drag slick sidewall detail.....NICE!

 

KingCobra-jpg23.jpg

 

The Russkit drag wheel had to be turned down to a smaller diameter of a scale 15" wheel as shown on the left:

 

KingCobra-jpg13.jpg

 

Anyhow, there they are. Everyone is free to do as they please. For me, I think they look really nice and I know they will perform well too.

 

On to the "anti-wheelie" weights..........


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#25 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 03:44 PM

Rick, That is beyond perfection!

 

Or.... at least the new meaning of. 


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#26 Mark Johnson

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 07:02 PM

Stunning Rick !!!!



#27 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 08:00 PM

Superb wheels Rick :good: You really have got that technique sorted for machining down beautiful threaded wheels, & fitting them inside the set screw wheels... Excellent :D



#28 Joe Mig

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 09:15 PM

Real nice attention to detail Rick.
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#29 dc-65x

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 11:44 AM

I really like the way the wheels turned out too. Unfortunately, the rears might have to be changed, More on that to come.........

 

First, here's my idea for an "anti-wheelie" adjustable weight system. The pieces, parts:

 

KingCobra23.jpg

 

I cut the back half of the Kemtron fitting off so it would fit over the front axle tube. Then the Aristo-Craft T-fitting was slipped over it. Here it is in my Rick's Jig that can align almost anything:

 

KingCobra45.jpg

 

All soldered up:

 

KingCobra34.jpg

 

Here is the maximum amount of weights installed:

 

KingCobra26.jpg

 

The weights are on the front axle centerline:

 

KingCobra25.jpg

 

The guide flag is a Russkit Small Slant Guide. The lead wires are Cox Fuse Wires. The gears are K&B 3:1 Bevels. There was no screw mounting hole drilled and tapped into the crown gear :wacko2: I took care of that:

 

KingCobra-jpg26.jpg

 

Here's a closer look at the Mystery front axle:

 

KingCobra-jpg25.jpg

 

Time to screw it all together and go for a test drive.....


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#30 SlotStox#53

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 12:19 PM

Super idea for the anti wheelie weight system! So simple :good:

Got a few of those free wheeling front axles Rick , think they're from the Japanese company that begins with A.... can't remember the name :laugh2:

#31 Champion 507

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Posted 20 June 2014 - 02:38 AM

Rick,

 

Question: what soldering iron, solder and flux do you mostly use for chassis building?


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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 20 June 2014 - 10:02 AM

Hi Doug,

I found this post of mine from an earlier thread:
 

Hi Stefano,

Thank you and Marty for the kind words and welcome to Slotblog. There are many opinions of what is "best" for our hobby. You can do a search on the forum and get many other ideas but this is what I use and I'm very happy with:

My jig is made by Rick from R-Geo:

R-Geo Products

I don't see them on his web site. You can PM him here under his user name "Rick"

For soldering equipment I use a Weller (formerly known as Ungar) Number 33 50 Watt heater. They can be had for under $40.....

Weller-3350wheater.jpg

.....And a Weller Number 7760 handle:

Weller-7760handle.jpg

The heater lasts a long time if you use a temperature control like this Inland Number 60014 and keep the iron turned off when you're not actually soldering:

inland60014tempcontrol.jpg

I gave up on sponges to keep the iron's tip clean and REALLY like this Hako Number 599B tip cleaner:

Hakko599b.jpg

For solder and flux I use Stay-Brite silver solder and Stay-Clean acid flux:

staybritesolderandflux.jpg

Note that the flux is indeed an acid and as such must be handled accordingly. But it does make the solder flow like crazy especially with all the heat available from the 50W 1100F degree iron.

For bending wire and rod I mainly use an assortment of pliers. R-Geo and others do make benders.

As for where to get this stuff, an internet search is you best bet. For the vintage parts like the UGO brackets you mentioned it's a never ending hunt on EBay. You can also look at the sponsors of this blog like Electric Dreams for parts.

This doesn't seem to appeal to lots of scratch builders. There's a "Retro" alternative if you check out the "Scratch Building" and "Retro Racing" sections on this forum.

Lastly, a great source of information is on Steve Okeefe's web site:

THE INDEPENDENT SCRATCH BUILDER

In my humble opinion he is one of the best scratch builders there is.

Hope this helps and welcome to SCRATCH BUILDING! smile.gif

Rick


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#33 dc-65x

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Posted 20 June 2014 - 08:48 PM

IT'S A BEAST!

 

KingCobra47.jpg

 

This 3 volt RAM armature is crazy fast for a padlock motor. On the first test lap, I parked it square on the main straight then punched it. It reared up and hopped for a few feet then jumped out of the slot and started doing 360 degree spins in the air before coming to rest on the main straight's inside wall.  :shok:

 

KingCobra48.jpg

 

After that excitement I tired various vintage silicone tires. Too much wheel spin and bouncing. Then I tried modern ProTrack drag tires. Mucho traction but high speed bouncing. I think they might be too soft for this massively heavy beast.

 

Then I tried Paul's of Canada XPG soft urethane replica Cox Firestone tires. They seem to have plenty of traction and little bouncing at high speed. I machined a new set of Russkit drag wheels to the same dimensions as Cox rear Chaparral wheels that fit these tires.

 

The problem I'm still having is the launch off the line. I've got the traction but with such a short wheelbase and so much torque and power it's still trying to wheelie even with all the weight up front. I burned off the first set of braid in minutes.

 

When I locked up the drop arm it worked best so far. That allows all the weight of this beast to be on the guide.

 

KingCobra46.jpg

 

I made up some body mounts and epoxied the body on. When it cures I'm hoping the extra weight of the body will help tame the beast.

 

I'm seriously thinking I need to back down to a 6V RAM armature and save this beastly 3V for a longer wheelbase car.

 

We'll see................


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 07:23 AM

Maybe too flexible fore and aft, causing it to get too much rear bite and the chassis gets the "leaf spring" effect ?  I had an F1 that was hopping like a bunny down the straights; I replaced the entire drivetrain piece by piece with no change.  Added another rail to each side, end of hopping.  The funny thing is, Jay Guard's F1 was doing the exact same thing and was fixed by the same thing.  Note to self, the track at Peachtree City does NOT like flexible F1's :)  Stiffening it up will give it less bite.  Will it work for you, I don't know.  Maybe you could rig something temporary up to test it.


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#35 SlotStox#53

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 08:24 AM

Sounds impressive :D :laugh2:

Maybe try some German sponge? Maybe a different gear ratio to counteract the insane power from that arm, what ratio have you got it at Rick?

Or as you say save it for a longer car, should do well in a period top eliminator rail like the magwinders, K&B etc

Or even a Rick T original rail :D the sidewinder I would of thought should handle the torque better?

#36 dc-65x

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 05:47 PM

Maybe too flexible fore and aft, causing it to get too much rear bite and the chassis gets the "leaf spring" effect ?

 

Hi Pablo,

 

Thanks for the input. I checked the chassis for flex and the thing seems stiff as a board. I mounted the body last night and I thought I'd try the car with the body mount screws cinched down tight. Thought that might stiffen up the chassis to see if that helps. I mounted the body on 1/4" Evergreen plastic tubes with vintage 4-40 threaded inserts:

 

KingCobra49.jpg

 

The mounting posts were screwed to the chassis and trimmed to length to get the body to sit right. A blop of JB Weld epoxy on top of each post and the body was set on the chassis to let dry overnight. Here's what it looks like before the posts get reinforced:

 

KingCobra50.jpg

 

I tested the car this morning with its tight fitting body and the bouncing was gone. :shok:

 

When I removed the body it was back to bounce city again :wacko2:

 

I put the body back on and left it loose for a rattle fit; the bounce was gone again and the car handled even better than with the tight fitting body.

 

My test track really got a workout with this one. I've been thrashing on this thing for days! Anyway it seems fairly "happy" now. It sometimes arcs the braid a bit off the line as the front end tries to lift. I still may have to swap arms to a lesser 6V. I need to test it on a real drag strip at Eddies.

 

 

Sounds impressive :D :laugh2:

........ Maybe a different gear ratio to counteract the insane power from that arm, what ratio have you got it at Rick?
 

 

I took your advice about gearing your VW. You thought it might work better at 3:1 so that's what I'm geared. I can't wait to see what it will do on a long straight. It seems to just be getting going by the end of my short straight.

 

Anywho, here's what it looks like at this point.

 

KingCobra52.jpg

 

KingCobra51.jpg


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#37 SlotStox#53

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 06:04 PM

Ooo that Cobra has got the perfect stance :D 

 

looking at all the Dragsters that ran in the Proxy, the standard Kemtron X503 ran by Bob got fastest MPH @ 3:1 , the rails with DC85 types won the lowest E.T at around 2.5 - 2.8:1 and probably had more in them with 3:1.. The VW with the weak magnet was held back @  2:1 , with reports of running out of steam half way down the track and getting hot. General opinion it would of been great at 3:1...

 

With so much more magnet power and ooomph in your RAM/Cobra Rick you could even probably get away with over 3:1 ? Smoother off the line and with enough power in the arm to pull top speed..



#38 Pablo

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 06:14 PM

"Very nice looking" is an understatement, of course ! :heart: :heart: :heart:

Interesting how the body eliminated the bouncing as you predicted.  Do you have a slot car crystal ball, Capt. Rick ?  May I have it, please, Sir ? :laugh2:  (Edo humor)

I reckon that's why we love these things so much;  black art meets science, math, and physics. :o :)

I just can't get over how cool that thing is :icon22:


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#39 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 06:15 PM

My guess is the weight of the body calmed it down.

The chassis looks dead stiff and I don't think the added rigidity of the body tying the front and back half was what got the car to settle down.

 

Easy to prove, weigh the body and add lead to the front and rear body mount brass plates.

 

You sure did nail the stance..... now that you took the Baldwin Chevy out of it.... LOL

 

Rick, Is Eddies a scale 1/4 mile ?


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#40 dc-65x

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 06:53 PM

 

With so much more magnet power and ooomph in your RAM/Cobra Rick you could even probably get away with over 3:1 ? Smoother off the line and with enough power in the arm to pull top speed..

 

That's an interesting idea.

 

 

Interesting how the body eliminated the bouncing as you predicted.  Do you have a slot car crystal ball, Capt. Rick ? 

 

 

:laugh2: No crystal ball Pablo, just grabbing at straws. It was my last hope!

 


You sure did nail the stance..... now that you took the Baldwin Chevy out of it.... LOL

 

Rick, Is Eddies a scale 1/4 mile ?

 

Yup, it's a full scale 1/4 mile strip.

 

I always associated Baldwin-Motion with Chevy too. This picture shows a "Motion Performance Inc. sticker on the rear fender???

 

KingCobra-jpg18.jpg

 

Maybe Motion Performance is different than Baldwin-Motion and Revell screwed up naming their kit.

 

I don't know the history, I just think the Cobra is bad a$$ looking. :dance3:


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#41 SlotStox#53

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 07:04 PM

All I know is I now want to build a Cobra :D :dance3:



#42 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 07:15 PM

Scale 1/4 should be a blast, 3:1 would most likely be as 'tall' of a gear you would want to run with the tire O/D that fits those wells..

 

Is it a neo magnet? If so you might want to bring some gear sets to head back towards 2:5 --> 2:1.

 

 

Yup, Baldwin Performance and Motion Chevrolet were two separate companies that joined forces to build dealer sold 'factory' Chevy supercars including COPO cars starting in late 1966.

 

From Corvairs, Camaros, Covettes, Novas to the big block Vega in the last days. 

 

A relationship kind of like Shelby did for Ford and Hurst did for Mopar street Hemi dealer sold race cars.


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#43 SlotStox#53

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 07:41 PM

Looks to be stock as a rock RAM magnet Bob :)



#44 dc-65x

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 08:15 PM

Yes, it's all RAM except for the modern 1/8" ball bearings.


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#45 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 08:24 PM

NICE !!!


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#46 James Wendel

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 08:41 PM

Looks really fine, Rick.  I am especially fond of the wheels. :good:

 

Paul is right about the "stance" of the car looking right.  I was talking with Bob Hanna just yesterday about our new "True Scale" classes.  Even running big Protrack hubs and 1-inch+ tires, they don't look quite right because we don't run true scale ground clearance.  We still sacrifice scale appearance for speed. 

 

Fortunately, with a Drag car, high cornering ability is not critical.  :D


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#47 dc-65x

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 09:51 PM

Hi James and thanks,

 

The drag Cobra is SOOOOOOOO heavy the brakes are a bit weak. But for a car with a CG that is SOOOOOOOOOO high it surprisingly can be coaxed around a road course.

 

Better for a road course is my scale road race Cobra:

 

CobraFinished11.jpg

 

CobraFinished12.jpg

 

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm...................

 

James, I'm sitting here wondering. :unsure:   I'm wondering if you, Bob and the guys would find it fun to race something different along with your regular classes. Something that went around the track slower than the regular cars. But all the cars would be equal so the racing would be side by side and just as intense.

 

They would be slower than usual because they would have to be "drifted" through the turns rather than "punched". They'd be sliding through the turns because they'd be using modern reproduction scale urethane tires and modern reproduction scale wheels.

 

Those wonderful scale model kit bodies would have their wheel wells full of scale wheels and tires and the racers would be side by side banging fenders battling for the win!  :dance3:

 

 

 

 


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#48 SlotStox#53

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 10:17 PM

Now that Total Performance Cobra you built is just plain Sexy :D :heart: Those side pipes :dance3:  Was thinking of building a Cobra after seeing the progress on this Drag racing beast.... now its a Gotta build a Cobra :sun_bespectacled:



#49 James Wendel

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 10:54 PM

Rick -

 

In reply to your wondering... (and everyone else, please pardon the thread drift)... I agree with the idea that slower is no less fun than faster, as long as the cars are evenly matched.  For instance, I have often advocated against running Super-16Ds in the two classes at Pelican Park that use them.  (Supers + hardbodies = increased breakage).  :bomb:

 

I don't know if I could convince the other racers to adopt a slower class though.  Speed is kinda addictive.  I think that lower traction tires would also necessitate a less powerful motor than the Deathstar, again to reduce wreckage.   Are Urethane tires compatible with a track that is spray-glued and has some natural rubber buildup?

 

Anyway, it is an interesting concept; certainly worth discussing with the guys.

 

Back on topic - I followed your build on the red Cobra... it is absolutely gorgeous !!!   Once again, the wheels are superb !!!   :good:  

(although I would have darkened the door/hood/trunk lines, but that's just me)

 

- James


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#50 dc-65x

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 11:24 PM

I don't know if I could convince the other racers to adopt a slower class though.  Speed is kinda addictive.  I think that lower traction tires would also necessitate a less powerful motor than the Deathstar, again to reduce wreckage.   Are Urethane tires compatible with a track that is spray-glued and has some natural rubber buildup?

 

 

 

Yes you're probably right. The entire concept hinges on a driver enjoying drifting his car around the turns. I grew up with slot cars in the 60's and that's the way it was. It was great fun for me as that is what the real race cars of the time were doing.

 

davemcdonaldkingcobra480x360.jpg

 

Anyway, the tires work fine on spray glued tracks like mine and Bob's. The motors should be less powerful like they were back then. A lower power modern "mini motor" would be in order. But the reality is the guys wouldn't be interested.

 

 


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