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Guide pin or guide blade?


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#1 sportblazer350

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Posted 23 November 2007 - 10:59 AM

Looking for advice here: i have 1 each of early edition TSRF 1/24 and 1/32 rtr chassis set up for home/club plastic tracks. Both had the original plastic guide blades, and both were cut off flush with the chassis bottom and replaced with stell guide pins in the far forward position, where a nut and bolt originally were. reason these 2 cars/chassis have not been used much by me is that this offered poor power connection with the track when the cars would slide in turns.

...so...should i revert back to the plastic guide blades in the original postion to get back optimum track power, or move the steel guide pins to the postion of the original plastic guide blades? I ask this as i fear messing up when i attempt proper milling of the chassis for the steel guide pin.....i know i can always purchase new parts, but i prefer to salvage what i have first.

Is there any reason not to use the older plastic guide blade in either plastic sectional home tracks or commercial tracks? I wish to use what will work best. Thanks for any help!1 :)

Glenn Orban
vintage slot car enthusiast
NJ SCALE Racing

Hardbody Racing at The Race Place





#2 TSR

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Posted 23 November 2007 - 11:22 AM

Glenn,
When this chassis was first designed, the idiot who did it used a commercial track to do his testing, and those have very wide slots so no problems arose. Once produced, and testing in some plastic tracks, the guide blade kept binding in the slot when the car drifted, causing horrid reactions similar to that of an unhappy bronco if you see what I mean.
So the stupid designer had to find a quick fix and reverted to the steel pin now used, but when fitted up front, it is still not satisfactory. The better fix is seen below. You do NOT want to use the plastic guide blade.
You REALLY need to do this:

Posted Image

It makes ALL the difference in the world. Problem is, you need to be very careful in the installation. Best would be for you to mail the car or the chassis back to TSR, and they will fix it for you for free. The reason? It needs a special "step-down" drill to be done properly:

Posted Image

This 1/4" drill was ground with a Dremel disk to the desired diameter. The chassis is then set on a jig and drilled, then milled to 1/2 its thin 1/8" thickness so that the steel pin's shoulder is now flush with the bottom of the chassis. But it is very easy to mis and drill through, so absolute care has to be taken to avoid that, hence the need for a stop on the drill press so that the milling only goes so far.
Once this is done and when driving the car, you will simply have no idea if it is fitted with a conventional guide or a pin, and it will be able to negotiate even tighter corners than that of the Scalextric #1 curves. Incredibly, some commercial or routed racing tracks have even tighter corners, so tight that many home-racing cars fitted with CONVENTIONAL guides cannot negotiate them!
Anyone can send his chassis for this alteration to:

TSR
3190 Airport Loop Drive, Suite H
Costa Mesa CA 92626

No charge for labor, only charge being the return postage and the cost of the new pin.

Philippe de Lespinay
 
"We are the D..., uh, the Borg. Lower your shields and surrender your ships. We will add your biological and technological distinctiveness to our own. Your culture will adapt to service us. Resistance is futile"


#3 sportblazer350

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Posted 23 November 2007 - 01:04 PM

Hi Dokk,

So expect one each of a 1/24 as well as the 1/32 chassis to be mailed.

Thanks!!!

:D

Glenn Orban
vintage slot car enthusiast
NJ SCALE Racing

Hardbody Racing at The Race Place


#4 TSR

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Posted 23 November 2007 - 03:02 PM

It will be our pleasure to do so. :)

Philippe de Lespinay
 
"We are the D..., uh, the Borg. Lower your shields and surrender your ships. We will add your biological and technological distinctiveness to our own. Your culture will adapt to service us. Resistance is futile"






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