I need to unglue several S16D magnets from the cans (Kamen Demon and Pro Slot ones). I need to set up a new air gap or install new ones.
Any suggestions without hurting the can itself?
Posted 21 July 2014 - 10:45 AM
I need to unglue several S16D magnets from the cans (Kamen Demon and Pro Slot ones). I need to set up a new air gap or install new ones.
Any suggestions without hurting the can itself?
Posted 21 July 2014 - 11:23 AM
Posted 21 July 2014 - 11:38 AM
Fernando,
If you have a good hot soldering iron, you sometimes get the factory glue to release by heating the curved sides of the can to a good temp then letting the can cool. Hold the can on your bench with one curved side down and one curved side up. Then give the curved sides a sharp rap with, say, a plastic screwdriver handle. Don't hit it hard enough to bend the can, just to pop the magnet loose.
If you use heat to release magnets, you should re-zap those magnets before you re-use them.
Gregory Wells
Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap
Posted 21 July 2014 - 12:33 PM
Drink Port while the can is cooling. You could also try standing the can on the endbell side (after cooling or while heating) and tap on the magnet downward toward the work table. This will pose less risk to the can. Only try this on cans with enough material touching the work surface so the tabs are not bent.
Scott Salzberg
PCH Parts Express
Posted 21 July 2014 - 12:53 PM
If the magnets are CA'd in, usually a hot soldering iron will knock them out. As PCH said, put the can endbell down, hold the can with a small set of needle nose pliers on the pinion side, and put the heat on the side of the can. Use something like a flat head screw driver to push the magnet down. Usually, you'll see a "Flash" of smoke come up from the can when you'd applied enough heat to the can to release the glue.
If your iron doesn't get hot enough, or the magnets are glued in with something stronger than CA, I usually use a small butane torch on low. Heat the can moving the flame around to get the heat spread out. It will usually knock out magnets in a matter of seconds...
I believe that the faster you can heat them up, knock them out, and let them cool off, the better. Prolonged heat exposure is probably worse for the magnets than a quick application of heat...
As someone else said, you should plan on zapping the magnets afterwards.
Re-install using "Skinner" epoxy if your rules allow.
Michael Colvin
- Pit dads of the world unite! -
Posted 21 July 2014 - 12:54 PM
Posted 21 July 2014 - 01:32 PM
Michael Colvin
- Pit dads of the world unite! -
Posted 21 July 2014 - 01:51 PM
Posted 21 July 2014 - 03:28 PM
Which cans? I've never had an issue doing it with Pro Slot, Cahoza, or Red Fox cans. Not saying it can't, just curious which ones so I don't use that method with those cans...
Michael Colvin
- Pit dads of the world unite! -
Posted 21 July 2014 - 04:05 PM
Red fox (the chrome appearing one) and Koford C-can.
Posted 21 July 2014 - 06:34 PM
Like Danny said, acetone will soften the glue and usually allow you to do the invert and then tap thing. A quick hit with a minitorch works well and is also faster than a soldering iron. A couple of seconds on the outside of the can and then you should be able to tap them towards the open end of the can.
-john