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Can-Am Plus motor brackets by Nobu Hanada


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#1 usadar

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 09:19 PM

I have just received the proto-type motor-brackets (1 inch wide & 3/4 inch wide) for Can-Am Plus from Nobu Hanada.

 

Their detailed dimensions of Hanada Can-Am Plus motor brackets (prototype) are shown in the following draft:

 

hb1.jpg

 

hb2.jpg

 

Made of 1.2mm (.047 inch) thick brass.
All the numbers are in Metric (mm).
1 inch equals 25.4mm

The holes for endbell metal bearings (6 mm dia.) and motor screws (2mm dia.) are slightly bigger to adjust the positioning of motor shaft against rear axle.

With .750" rear tires, the rear clearance would be around .060 to .068 inch.

 

Your feedback is most welcome.

 

Good racing,

 

Haruki


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#2 Mark Wampler

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 12:43 AM

Very interested in seeing the finished product!


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#3 ejgehrken

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 11:51 AM

I would recommend raising the axle holes so a 27 or 28 tooth crown gear is flush with the bottom of the bracket. The current configuration is raising the mass of the motor and motor bracket 0.020" higher than it needs to be.


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#4 usadar

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 09:40 PM

Erick,

 

After discussing with Nobu & Kamo, we have decided to raise a center of axle hole from 7.8 mm of the proto-type to 8.2 mm for the final production.

 

It will be raised by 0.4 mm(0.0157 inch).

 

With .750 inch dia rear tires, the rear clearance is .052 inch.

Parma 26T crowns have 16.3 mm dia, so they are placed within the new motor-racket.

 

If you use Parma 27T crowns, their dia is 17 mm (0.67 inch), the crowns come outside below the bracket by 0.6 mm(.0118 inch).

So the rear clearance becomes from the bottom of the crown to the racing surface.

In order to clear the .047 minimum rear clearance, rear tire must be bigger than .7633 inch.

In this case, the clearance of the rear motor-bracket from the racing surface is .0587 inch.

 

Haruki :good:  :dash2:


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#5 bbr

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Posted 24 August 2014 - 11:09 PM

From my testing of an CA+, you can run these cars light, the RP bodies gives so much downforce, the car has a lot of grip.
Can you lighten the motor bracket with holes in the legs, with 1.2mm brass; the bracket will still be strong.
Mike Low
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#6 usadar

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 07:01 PM

Mike,
 
Kamo Can-Am Pluls MB UP.jpg
 
This is what Kamo has done to reduce the weight of the motor-bracket: cutting & shaveing off some metal from the upper part & bracing with a piano wire to which the motor is to be soldered.
 
Haruki
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#7 NSwanberg

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 09:31 PM

Wow! Six bends on that brace. I still try and build with one bend to a wire.


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#8 bbr

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Posted 25 August 2014 - 10:14 PM

I like the slotted motor screw holes. The PS/FK can is a taller than the sealed FK can
Mike Low
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#9 usadar

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Posted 16 August 2015 - 12:12 AM

I made a big mistake. Nothing is allowed to exceed the bottom surface of the chassis, so when you use 27T you should grind it down by 0.6 mm in diameter.
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