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JK 64p crowns for Can-Am Plus?


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#26 George Blaha

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 01:22 PM

Si, Howie!
 
Shakey George Blaha




#27 Greg VanPeenen

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Posted 04 September 2014 - 02:07 PM

I tried those gears years ago. I can tell you Howie is correct they do not last. In Can-Am Plus the Torque and extreme brakes the Pro Slot FK motor will kill them ASAP.
 
GVP

#28 usadar

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 04:32 AM

Greg,

Are you talking about Sonic metal crowns, or about JK 64p crowns?

Haruki
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#29 Joe Mig

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 04:38 AM

Both are no good.
Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

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#30 usadar

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 05:26 AM

Finally I received 30t JK 64p crowns and ARP 72p angled pinions (11t and 12t), so I will test them on Sunday.
 
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#31 tonyp

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 06:09 AM

Waiting with open ears.

"And if my thought-dreams could be seen they'd probably put my head in a guillotine. But it's alright, Ma, it's life, and life only." - Dylan

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#32 wbugenis

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 07:16 AM

I'd go with angled.

Also Bill B.'s idea, on OWH, of deepening the tooth pattern sounds interesting.


I must confess now that relieving the teeth is an idea given to me by Matt Bruce - he did not reveal his method - the Dozuki saw file is my own solution to getting a little more depth in the root of those teeth.

Google "Dozuki saw file" (a Dozuki saw is a tool from traditional Japanese woodworking) and you can find a place to buy one. I was amazed at how easy it is to do - center the saw over the axle hole and do two teeth at once.

Also, everyone in F1 Europsort uses a gear saver - a machined piece of rod, 1/4 in. diameter, that slips over the axle and fits
exactly between the gear hub and the bearing in the pillow block. It locks in the gear mesh and reduced the chances for losing the gear

Bill
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#33 W. J. Dougherty

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 08:01 AM

Bill,
 
Where are you getting those savers? On my 1/32 F1 Euro we just used axle spacers... 

BTW, I got my file at the Woodcraft store...
 
Thanks.
Yortuk & Georg Festrunk

#34 kvanpelt

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 09:11 AM

CA+ rules do not allow 2mm axles, only 3/32" axles are allowed.

 
In case you guys don't do OWH, Miroslov posted this LINK on OWH.

 

72p, 3/32" axle, .200" offset available. Why make it harder than it need be?



#35 wbugenis

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 10:03 AM

Where are you getting those savers? On my 1/32 F1 Euro we just used axle spacers...


You need a friend with a hobby lathe. Give me the axle size and the exact length you need.
William Bugenis

#36 wbugenis

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 10:06 AM

In case you guys don't do OWH, Miroslov posted this LINK on OWH.
 
72p, 3/32" axle, .200" offset available. Why make it harder than it need be?


The car I bought from Miroslav had a green gear on it. I still have a ton of green gears to use up before I buy more - hence the file.
William Bugenis

#37 kvanpelt

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 10:49 AM

The car I bought from Miroslav had a green gear on it. I still have a ton of green gears to use up before I buy more - hence the file.

 

Hi Bill, no problem. Just trying to help those without friends with machining abilities or an inventory of green gears. If Matt uses those green gears, they are probably better.

 

Are you running the ISRA Nats this weekend?



#38 wbugenis

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 11:15 AM

Hi Bill, no problem. Just trying to help those without friends with machining abilities or an inventory of green gears. If Matt uses those green gears, they are probably better.
 
Are you running the ISRA Nats this weekend?

HI Kevin

Yes I am planning to run the ISRA nats this weekend. It would be nice to have some Midwest racers attend.
Be good to see you guys again! I have not been able to do much traveling lately.

Just a couple of points;

I think the Green gear "looks" like junk BUT we have bee able to make it work, to mesh well,
to run hypoid,and to last several races. Pretty good for a gear that appears so fragile! When Matt told me
he cuts the teeth deeper, I knew I needed to find a way to do that.

I have Vitulas - the hub is on the inside creating more that problems requiring machining. The gears from the Ukraine sound good -
I wonder if they take Visa or Mastercard?

The file works easily and well.

I don't think anyone runs F-1 euro without a gear saver if they can help it. I see some use a piece of 1/8 tubing - I think the bearing surface is too
small. Some make them with a Dremel - I am not a good enough mechanic to do that, I need the lathe. I just can't imagine using spacers -
what if you had to change a gear during a race?
William Bugenis

#39 kvanpelt

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 01:32 PM

Hi Bill,

 

Good luck this weekend. I unfortuniatly have been a non traveller since taking up slots, but a group of us from the midwest have our sights set on the USRA D2 Nats this coming spring @ Speedzone.

 

I would expect the shops that catter to eurosport racing will start carrying the Ukraine gears. PSCR has some 2mm Vitula's and I would bet Dave Harvy @ WOW would have both the Vitula's and the S&K's as well as BSP, they are both easy to deal with. 

 

I wouldn't run a ES F1 car without a gear saver and don't expect to run CA+ without one either, if I run these smaller gears.   



#40 MSwiss

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 03:10 PM

Do you guys run the axle BB flange on the inside with the gear saver?

I would think the ticket would be to run your brass tubing with a steel axle spacer soldered on both ends.

Or how about a 3 pillow block chassis so you could run 2 BB's on that side, with one flange in and one flange out?

Mike Swiss
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#41 kvanpelt

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 03:37 PM

Regular pillow blocks with BB in the normal direction for me.

 

I use tubing with steel axle washers to get the precise spacing.



#42 MSwiss

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 03:48 PM

If you don't solder the tubing to the spacers, you should.

Mike Swiss
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Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
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Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516


#43 wbugenis

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 05:56 PM

Do you guys run the axle BB flange on the inside with the gear saver?

I would think the ticket would be to run your brass tubing with a steel axle spacer soldered on both ends.

Or how about a 3 pillow block chassis so you could run 2 BB's on that side, with one flange in and one flange out?


I have a Richard Mack Chassis with 3 pillow blocks - I think it won the Worlds when it was in
Milton Keynes, England driven by James Cleave. Next Year, Horky was back with a vengeance and everyone went back to Horky chassis.
We racers are such lemmings.
William Bugenis

#44 MSwiss

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 06:43 PM

Bill,
I'm sorry if you already made it clear but were the 3 pillow blocks on it for that reason, to hold the inline gear mesh better?

Mike Swiss
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516


#45 wbugenis

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 06:54 PM

Mike

The gear hub fits right against the bearing race so the 3rd pillow block acts as a gear saver.

I think you are assigning some importance to flange in/ flange out. I don't understand what that may be.
Also the importance of soldering the steel space to the gear saver.

Bill
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#46 MSwiss

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 07:40 PM

Depending on the width of the BB and the pillow block, moving the flange to the inside would move the BB slightly closer to the gear, and decrease deflection with the 2MM axle.

Even with a wide BB and a thin pillow block, IMO, the soldered flange would move the strength and stiffness slightly inward.

Maybe not a lot, but every little bit helps.

In the case of the steel spacer soldered to the brass tube, I would think it would eliminate any wear on a loose, spinning brass tube, especially on a thin wall one like it sounds KVP uses.

BTW, I had no idea that the 3 pillow block thing had already been done, because I don't follow these cars much at all.

They're not expensive enough to catch my interest.

Get them up to about $1,000 and I'm in. Lol

Mike Swiss
IRRA® Components Committee Chairman
Five-time USRA National Champion (two G7, one G27, two G7 Senior)
Two-time G7 World Champion (1988, 1990), eight G7 main appearances
Eight-time G7 King track single lap world record holder

17B West Ogden Ave Westmont, IL 60559, (708) 203-8003, mikeswiss86@hotmail.com (also my PayPal address)

Note: Send all USPS packages and mail to: 5858 Chase Ave., Downers Grove, IL 60516


#47 wbugenis

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 07:54 PM

Thanks, Mike, makes sense.

Taking your comment on the cost ironically, I would say used cars can be had at reasonable cost, they last a long time and
would be a lot of fun on your flat track. I would almost say it would be worth a trip to Chicago in February if you include it
with your ISRA schedule. A mere 18 hours on AMTRAK from New York City. I'm sure Greg and Rob would agree to such an addition.
William Bugenis

#48 kvanpelt

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Posted 05 September 2014 - 11:53 PM

Bill, we plan to add those 1/32 classes a couple times a year to our regular ISRA USA race. Jan 3-4 and March 14-15 are the dates, we would love to have you back here to race with us again. Bring some friends!



#49 wbugenis

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Posted 06 September 2014 - 06:54 AM

Not so many friends since our last AMTRAK adventure to Chicago
William Bugenis

#50 usadar

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Posted 08 September 2014 - 02:10 AM

On Sunday, I tested a JK 64(72)P 30-tooth crown(green color) with a ARP 72P angled 11-tooth pinion.

I didn't put a gear saver.

After 2 or 3 laps at mild speed, the teeth of the crown were almost gone.

 

Haruki


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