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The Drifter


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#1 Jairus

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Posted 20 September 2014 - 01:28 PM

Chapter 1
Proposal from customer is to build a repop of the Lancer "Drifter" body into what could have been an RTR released by Lancer.
The body dates from 1968. Nothing in my research shows what month it was actually released to the public, but we all know that 1968 and 1969 saw a huge increase in chassis changes.  Most of it documented by the publications of the time... but those required a lead time of one to two months so.... who actually knows when what happened?  I contend that the field is pretty wide open. As long as it looks period correct for this build, then it is correct.

The Proposal:

Drifterpaintproposal-vi.jpg

(Although, the final build up will probably vary from the proposal due to design and cost overruns.)

 

 

Using an article published in Car Model mag by Tony P regarding the chassis. I choose a 4 rail look with narrow tongue and pans.
Since the ISO design was already a well known feature in the Thingie crowd, we are going that route as well.
This cross over Can-Am/Thingie will be total fantasy of course. But as close as I can build it using vintage parts with-in the parameters set by the buyer.

 

IMG_2054-vi.jpg

Motor bracket is vintage pulled off a chassis kit from an early 1968 build up.  The tongue was originally narrow at 3/4", but too short for a pure ISO so that got left off and a new one built up.

 

IMG_2056-vi.jpg

Stay tuned to this same Lancer channel for updates.  B)


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#2 Bill from NH

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Posted 20 September 2014 - 03:43 PM

Interesting build, Jairus. :) The motor bracket appears to be a Dynamic item.


Bill Fernald
 

I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.


#3 dc-65x

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Posted 20 September 2014 - 04:35 PM

Hi Jairus,

 

Always a pleasure to watch your builds. Thanks for sharing with us! :victory:


Rick Thigpen
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There's much more to come...


#4 Jairus

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Posted 20 September 2014 - 07:15 PM

Actually, it's a pleasure to watch your builds Rick. But thank you.


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#5 SlotStox#53

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Posted 20 September 2014 - 08:20 PM

Very cool design sheet/blue print /propsal :good: 

 

Looking forward to seeing this RTR ready to Rock :D



#6 Maximo

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Posted 20 September 2014 - 09:00 PM

High Quality work Jairus!

 

You are in a league with the likes of Masters Thigpen - Steube - Okeefe - Pablo - Samson & Tony P ... among others.

 

 

 

-mAx


David Ray Siller
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#7 olescratch

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 11:15 AM

I intend to watch this one step-by-step with plans to try and duplicate this build.  Looks to be very interesting because you will not only use period pieces, but fabricate some along the way.  John D.


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#8 Jairus

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 01:03 PM

Chapter 2: The plumber.
The plumber design shows up in January 1969 issue of Car Modeler mag in a Tony P. article about building the latest chassis. This suggests that the technology on the Drifter RTR chassis is still with-in the time period.

The mockup on the jig.
IMG_2058-vi.jpg

Finished plumber.
IMG_2059-vi.jpg

IMG_2061-vi.jpg

And now with the pans attached and a front axle mocked up but not yet soldered in.
I used .062 for the front axle mount... but that is way too stiff.
So... going to try .055 next.
IMG_2062-vi.jpg
The front wheels are not the customers first choice unfortunately.  I am pushing for them because they are ball bearing wheels allowing a solid front axle. But the customer sent some more modern Tamiya RC car ball bearing wheels that will ultimately be installed. But for me, I LIKE VINTAGE bits because it makes the premise of a 1968 RTR more logical.
B) 
 


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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#9 Pablo

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Posted 21 September 2014 - 08:59 PM

:clapping: :heart:


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#10 Jairus

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 01:02 PM

Chapter 3: chassis is done.
IMG_2065-vi.jpg

 

Front wheels are "O" ring ball races by Tamiya. Front axle is brass tube drilled out with screws inserted.
The support is .055" wire that is soldered and wired to the axle tube for maximum strength.
All pan stops and limiters are in place... only one thing left....

IMG_2067-vi.jpg

 

Time for paint finally!  B)


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

www.slotcarsmag.com

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http://www.ratholecustoms.com
Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#11 Pablo

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 07:26 PM

I was going to ask where I can get some of those cool new jig wheels  :)


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Paul Wolcott

#12 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 08:18 PM

The square aluminum jig wheels? Mine came with a Phaze III chassis jig about 1970 or 71. They were probably made by Ferret. Jairus is the only other person I know who still has a set.


Bill Fernald
 

I heard they weren't going to make yardsticks any longer.


#13 Jairus

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 09:38 PM

Whatever works eh?
Ferret is correct.


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#14 Pablo

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 09:44 PM

I was referring to the Tamiya front wheels.


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#15 Jairus

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Posted 22 September 2014 - 09:49 PM

Oh.
Tamiya.

Most "O" ring fronts I will install with-out the rubber.  Generally this works out to perfect clearance after the rubber is installed.
Of course that may vary and each build depends on the size of the "O" ring.

 


Jairus H Watson - Artist
Need something painted, soldered, carved, or killed? - jairuswtsn@aol.com

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Check out some of the cool stuff on my Fotki!


#16 Pablo

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 12:53 AM

Jairus, what size brass tube fits in a 2mm BB ?


Paul Wolcott

#17 Jairus

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 11:31 AM

None Paul. I had to take an index drill bit and mic out the correct diameter to allow enough material for the screw threads to bite into. The screws Tamiya sends with the wheels by the way. So the front axle tube is 3/32" and I am not sure which bit I used. I think it was a .078 or .081.


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#18 Pablo

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:47 PM

I think I understand - the screw acts as the axle - is that the way it is designed, or is that the custom way you fitted it for your application ?


Paul Wolcott

#19 Maximo

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 08:14 PM

Pablo,

 

Check out the "Punisher" car that Jairus built in 2009. it was the first use of the Tamiya Ball Bearing O-Ring wheels & tires.

Also the Lucky 13 Proxy entry for Team Lo Bucks called the "Road Warrior" also used Tamiya front O-Ring Ball Bearing wheels/tires.

You can visually investigate the clever methods Jairus employed on those cars.

 

 

-maX


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Thingies are my thingie!

#20 Jairus

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 08:53 PM

Final Chapter in this story.  
Paint was done early this morning, but took many hours to assemble the chassis. Funny how long that takes when one has to get gear mesh and stance correct on one of these things. But the car is DONE!
IMG_2076-vi.jpg
Paint is alclad for Lexan sprayed as dry as I could. Then backed with black.  The red was first followed by the metallic grey. Last was the chrome applied to an UN-sanded surface cleaned thoroughly with 99% Isopropyl alcohol.  Probably scratch really easy, so I protected all contact points with tape as best I could.

The "Lancer" logo is sprayed through a mask I cut at work. Took longer to clean up the scan from an old body-box than it would have probably taken to hand paint... but it looks good so, guess it was worth it.

IMG_2074-vi.jpg
Stance and gear mesh is great. That 25s arm is super strong! Stays cool regardless of the power I put to it so... guess it'll work well.  Gear ratio is 4 to 1, but there is room for changes.  

 

IMG_2073-vi.jpg

 

IMG_2071-vi.jpg

 

IMG_2072-vi.jpg

 

IMG_2070-vi.jpg

Okay, guess I can call this one done.
Time to build a Chaparral II!

B)


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Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#21 Pablo

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 09:00 PM

Thanks David  :good:

 

Love the car, Jairus  :heart:

 

Will be waiting for the Chappy....


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#22 Maximo

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 09:02 PM

F A N T A S T I C ! ! !

 

No one can do so completely what you do in the whole World!

 

 

 

-MAX


David Ray Siller
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