13 replies to this topic

[Matt Sheldon]

The wiper button on my Difalco Genesis 30 is coming apart and leaving the wiper movement very gritty. I can get it to smooth out by cleaning with VooDoo or lighter fluid, but it only lasts 2-3 heats before it is gritty and hanging up again. More upset that my new boards is now gouged.

 

Was thinking of replacing with either a Koford or a Slick 7 unless others have a better solution/opinion.

[Half Fast]

Why not contact Jim DiFalco directly?

 

Cheers

[Matt Sheldon]

Why not contact Jim DiFalco directly?

 

Cheers

 

Hoping there is a better replacement option. 

[PCH Parts Express]

Parma 401 wiper button

 

www.e-slotcar.com

[dalek]

I have a 30 band DiFalco controller and I experienced the same gritty feel that you did.  So now I put one small drop of Voo Doo on the bands every heat or two.  I pull the trigger a couple of times so the button spreads the Voo Doo from end to end and off I go (no wipe off necessary).  That's all it takes to keep the action as smooth as silk.  I started doing this soon after I bought the controller (a couple of years ago) and no problems.

 

A little thread drift, but one other thing -- I clean the brake contacts (where the plate contacts the screw head) regularly.  I cut a piece of crocus cloth into a strip about 6 inches long and a quarter of an inch wide.  I fold it in half then feed it down between the screw head and plate, release the trigger then pull the cc out.  I keep doing this until the black spot on the brake contact plate (caused by arcing) is gone.  It only takes about one evening of racing for a spot to begin to appear.  I found out the hard way (a few wall shots) that the brake contacts need to be cleaned.

[NY Nick]

I have had the same problem, I use lighter fluid and a rag and crocus cloth for the brake.

[Dominator]

Take some 800 grit sand paper to polish the wiper button and the surface of the board.

[Michael Rigsby]

I would not recommend using any sandpaper on the board itself. I do keep a piece of 2000 grit wet/dry in my box to polish the button and the brake contacts. Cut a small piece of the 2000 grit paper and place it between the button and the board with the grit going toards the button face. Work the trigger five or six times to clean up the button. Using a soft cotton cloth, apply a little lighter fluid to the cloth and clean the bands on the board.

 

Now here is where you can freak out if you wish. Use your index finger to rub the side of your nose. Your finger will pick up natural body oils, apply that to the board and work the trigger a few times. Trust me, the "nose oil" lasts longer than voodoo drops and it won't harm the board. When I'm able to race, I do this on a weekly basis, and I have both an HD-30 and a Genesis controller. If the controller button starts to feel draggy during a race or enduro, apply more nose oil. Learned this from a very experienced racer and longtime Difalco user.

 

If you feel that you really want to replace the button, what it comes with is a standard Parma button like Scott said. I tried one of the Slick 7 buttons in repairing a Difalco that belongs to my son, and went back to the Parma button because the Slick 7 button was harder and scratched the board.

[Zippity]

"Nasal sebum"  

 

From Wiki:

Nasal sebum, also known as nose grease/oil, is grease removed from the surface of the human nose. The pores of the lateral creases (where the nose joins the face) of the exterior of the nose create and store more oil and grease than pores elsewhere on the human body, forming a readily available source of small quantities of grease or oil. The grease is a particularly oily form of sebum, thought to contain more squalene (C₃₀H₅₀) than the secretions from other parts of the skin.^{[citation needed]} It is notable because nose grease is a convenient durable lubricant.

Nose grease can be used to minimize scratches in optical surfaces, for example when cleaning photographic negatives.^[1]Observatory lore holds that nose grease was used to reduce stray light and reflections in transmissive telescopes before the development of vacuum antireflective coatings.^[2] The antireflective properties are due in part to the fact that the nose oil fills small cracks and scratches and forms a smooth, polished surface, and in part to the low index of refraction of the oil, which can reduce surface reflection from transmissive optics that have a high index of refraction. The same effect is sometimes used by numismatic hobbyists to alter the apparent grade of slightly worn coins.^[3]

Nose grease is often recommended as a lubricant for fly fishing rod ferrules.^[4][5]

Nose grease has mild antifoaming properties and can be used to break down a high head on freshly poured beer or soft drinks. Wiping nose grease onto one's finger and then touching or stirring the foam causes it to dissipate rapidly.^[6]

[drrufo]

  I use the Parma wiper button for my controllers. I use 400 grit sandpaper facing the button to burnish the wiper array. I use the same sandpaper to burnish the brake and full open contacts .

   

I use Vteck oil on the wiper array after using the sandpaper. I wipe the button with a q-tip to get rid of the grit. The Vteck oil will lubricate the wiper button as it goes across the brass array. As I move the wiper button across the array, the oil will get dirty from the carbon in the array. I reapply the oil until there is no more carbon in the oil, then I wipe off the oil. There is a residual amount of oil for lubricating the button. I reccomend the oil on my enclosed instructions with every controller I ship.

 

I have cleaned DR controllers that had muck built up on the wiper array from not cleaning the sandpaper grit off the array. The wiper array had grooves in the brass from the sandpaper grit. The owners complained the controller wasn't working right. Their brake and full open contacts were black from arcing.

 

Racers need to keep the controllers clean for them to work the way they were designed. I have only replaced one wiper button since I bought the DR controller line. It was worn about half way, I changed it because I was fixing several other problems. It didn't need changing, I just didin't like the way it looked.

 

  John Andersen

  DR Racing Products

[old & gray]

It's a bit of work but you might want to build a "Fleming Hinge" so you can adjust the pressure on the wiper button.

 

http://jbriggsk9.tripod.com/id34.html

[Matt Sheldon]

Thanks everyone for the help, suggestions and tips. I am trying a little of them all.

[PCH Parts Express]

Before you start the repairs maybe check the trigger to see if it is loose. Maybe the trigger pivot screws needs lightning? Be sure not to over tighten. If you can jiggle the trigger side to side a bit it is loose.

[Lenny Broke]

Hi

I had some problems with my E-motion 30 and contacted Jim via e-mail. He suggested that as part of a regular service to gently run a sharp modelers knife between the segments of the wiper board to clean any carbon build up and other junk that gets in there. then a wipe over with a cloth dipped in lighter fluid. Finally a drop of voodoo or the like and wipe of the excess.

I do this on a regular basis along with flushing the rheostats out with lighter fluid and give the knobs a twist either way to clean the contacts in there.

Cheers

Alan