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Midwest 1/32 racers... brass pans and guide pins!


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#26 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 04:23 PM

I REALLY need to post pictures.  Not quite THAT cpu literate yet.

 

I raced one of the early RAIL tracks in Aurora, IL before the first hobby shop slot track (in Aurora) was built in 1960...and later in the late 1960's raced with one of the Midwest series clubs in Lombard, IL (Glenwood Club) and at the Berwyn Invitational 1/32 race of 1969 (?).

 

The alnico magnet Pittman motors really needed that extra battery to slow them down. Once we started using the Mabuchi cans (with ceramic magnets), they were obsolete...both the alnico motors and the need for the battery packs.

 

Guide pins were a direct crossover from rail (dual pin) pickups.  I mostly used MRRC rail kits in the earliest days with the potmetal frames and the Triang motors.  The Pittman DC60 five pole was the hot horsepower setup on these before brakes came into use. We were using 25 watt  round rheostats (two handed) as controllers back then. The rail frames were so far off the track, turning them into slot cars and adding a brass plate was the best idea to happen to model car racing.

 

My Lola GT is handpainted to the Road America car of 1965 and is the first mabuchi motored car I built...and in the project box to be restored.  My Pittman powered Chapparell IIa chassis # ONE is painted after the 1964 USRRC race car (Penske driven to 2nd place) at Meadowdale Raceway that I was up-close with....like the Hawk model kit.

 

We used solid silicone tires and a lot of GRAY foam tires on the 1/32 cars.  I could always use some of these for restorations.  My 2F chappy coupe still has usable gray foam on it, just needs new braid.  Used a lot of bevel gears as well....

It is/was a lot easier to paint those old butyrate bodies on the outside - less tendency for them to shrink into a ball.


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Larry D. Kelley, MA
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#27 dc-65x

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Posted 04 February 2015 - 10:01 PM

"But wait, there's more!"

 

I couldn't help myself. The same eBay seller listed this Lotus 40 he got from the same flea market seller:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2012.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2011.jpg

 

It's pretty plain and really "rough" but for a sale price of $18 I couldn't resist:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2010.jpg

 

Here's the body removed:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%201.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%202.jpg

 

Here's the rolling chassis with motor:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%209.jpg

 

Almost everything has been painted the body color:  :wacko2:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%208.jpg

 

It's built nice and low........and very blue :laugh2:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%207.jpg

 

Same style plexi guide pin block and front wheels/tires as the other cars:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%206.jpg

 

Same early Mabuchi but this rewound example has been balanced:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%204.jpg

 

Same style lightened brass bevel gear. The hand made motor bracket is soldered to the motor:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%203.jpg

 

Bottom view:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%205.jpg

 

Well, I think this thing is toast as far as a "sympathetic" restoration is concerned. I'm going to rip it apart and see what makes it tick and hopefully do a full "non-sympathetic" restoration......bye bye blue paint and rotted tires :D

 

 

 


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#28 Hworth08

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 12:33 AM

Pretty hot looking arm for a non-brush holder end bell.

 

Nice, clean built chassis though. The cars changed so fast!

 

I wonder if there might be a set screw under the tires?


Don Hollingsworth

#29 dc-65x

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 01:27 PM

 

I wonder if there might be a set screw under the tires?

 

I wondered that too. With the previous 2 cars the tires were good so I couldn't find out but with this car........

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2017.jpg

 

more "deconstruction" to come..........


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#30 dc-65x

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 04:46 PM

 

Pretty hot looking arm for a non-brush holder end bell.

 

Check this out Don :shok:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2014.jpg

 

Looks like this one got the Krap run out of it!

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2018.jpg

 

:crazy:


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#31 racie35

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 07:13 PM

This is another great thread...thanks for sharing
Bruce Thomas

#32 dc-65x

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Posted 06 February 2015 - 10:48 PM

Thanks Bruce, I love these old cars too!

 

Here's the body cleaned up before final finishing:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2022.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2021.jpg

 

And here's the chassis pan after removing the paint. I decided to try my micro bead blaster on it as it was quite "needy":

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2020.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2019.jpg

 

This is more work than building a car from scratch but I think this car deserves to live again.


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#33 don.siegel

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 04:49 AM

Amen Rick! But I kinda liked the paint on it (period patina you know)... oh well, guess you have to use your bead blaster.... If I had one I'd use it too! 

 

Are those the original solder joints? Looks well done in fact. 

 

Don 



#34 racie35

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 08:25 AM

Sometimes, cars I'm vaguely interested in I always want after you massage em. Good work
Bruce Thomas

#35 dc-65x

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Posted 07 February 2015 - 12:20 PM

Thanks Bruce :)
 

.................Are those the original solder joints? Looks well done in fact.

 
They sure are Don and with that paint off the chassis we can see the design details and enjoy the craftsmanship of the builder.  :sun_bespectacled:
 
The Lola GT and Porsche GP were pretty complete and running cars so I tried to be very respectful of their originality.
 
This car was a wreck, melted down non-working motor, rotted out tires, no interior or driver, missing engine detail and a heavy coat of mold and filth on the entire car. I'm going to do my best to fix the above items in the spirit of the period the car was originally built and get it on the track again.
 
Onward :dance3:


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#36 Hworth08

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 11:00 AM

I couldn't figure out why the brass nuts were soldered to the pan. After cleaning I'm supposing they just provide some "meat" for the counter sunk holes. Just something to stabilize the body screws.

 

Good idea and one I'll practice.


Don Hollingsworth

#37 don.siegel

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 11:09 AM

Still seems kind of odd Don - the screws bite into the wood blocks glued to the body, not into these nuts, at least the way I see it... and seems they wouldn't quite let the body sit flat either. But those midwesterners are kind of nuts, eh? 

 

Don 



#38 Bill from NH

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 12:24 PM

Post #27 shows those nuts deeply marked up the wood blocks. I like Don H's assumption, that the purpose of nuts was to provide "meat" for countersinking. Of course, the chassis could have once been used  to mount a body using machine screws & nuts also on the top of the wooden mounting blocks. If I used wood screws for body mounting, the blocks would be basswood. It has better screw holding ability than does balsa.


Bill Fernald
 

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#39 dc-65x

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 01:07 PM

When I got the car the body was firmly screwed down with wood screws. There were disintegrating felt pads glued to the top of the wood blocks. You can see them below:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%202.jpg

 

Here's the wood blocks after what was left of the felt was removed:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%2021.jpg

 

I'm not sure how I'll proceed with body mounting yet but it hopefully won't be screwed down firmly to felt pads..........stay tuned :)


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#40 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 01:14 PM

By using the nut with a screw, the nut can be positioned and soldered more easily than two or more flatwashers.  The nut does have the thickness to countersink for the lower ground clearance.

 

The nylon endbell rot may also be due to the other chemicals in the oil rotting the plastic.  Back then, most 'motor oils' had a lot of additives.


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#41 dc-65x

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 10:56 PM

Here's the stripped and micro-bead blasted motor can and axle bracket:

 

Lotus%2040%20after%203.jpg

 

Nice and clean inside too, waiting for magnets:

 

Lotus%2040%20after%202.jpg

 

Speaking of magnets, I thought I'd show what happens when I try and zap Mabuchi magnets. They started out at a guass reading of near 400:

 

Lotus%2040%20after%206.jpg

 

After a zap with the "Big Dog"...................

 

Lotus%2040%20after%205.jpg

 

................they dropped DOWN to almost 300:

 

Lotus%2040%20after%204.jpg

 

There are different types of ceramic magnets. Mabuchi, French-Tradeship and Pittman 6000 are among those that don't respond well to zapping.

 

So, I dug through my pile-O-Mabuchi magnets and matched up a set that read about 420 each. The motor went together with a new endbell screwed to the can with No.2 screws and new brushes:

 

Lotus%2040%20after%201.jpg

 

I made up the Tiger X-100 sticker to cover up metal pitting in the can. I think a driver figure may have been glued to the motor in that area. Hopefully I won't have to use that same method:

 

Lotus%2040%20after%207.jpg

 

Onward


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#42 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 February 2015 - 11:02 PM

Wow! The micro bead blasting has revived the can and motor bracket to "Like new" condition.

That motor looks amazing :D

Look forward to seeing the finished car.

#43 dc-65x

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Posted 09 February 2015 - 10:41 PM

Getting closer Paul :)

 

All the wheels had at least an ounce of white paint applied to them, ugly wheel inserts pushed into the paint and the rear sponge tires were rotted away.

 

Here are the wheels and tires after a refurbish with new 30mm German tires..............

 

Lotus%2040%20after%2013.jpg

 

.............and some before and after shots of the roller:

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%209.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20after%2011.jpg

 

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%208.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20after%2012.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20before-%207.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20after%2010.jpg

 

Here are the top and bottom views:

 

Lotus%2040%20after%208.jpg

 

Lotus%2040%20after%209.jpg

 

Yikes, now I have to get the body on :shok:


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#44 racie35

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 10:03 AM

Carve my name in the bottom of that just for giggles.
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#45 Hworth08

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Posted 10 February 2015 - 10:45 AM

Real nice job on the re-store! The basics are unchanged, just allowed to function again as they did 40 years ago, real nice!

 

These cars look so simple now and we can see lots of room for improvements. In the day the builders only had the patterns of previous builds and other cars they had seen.

 

Wish there was a way to find out who built the cars. I imagine all three of these cars were pretty competitive.


Don Hollingsworth

#46 dc-65x

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 12:56 PM

Hey guys, check this out. Rodney just sent me pictures of his unrestored Porsche 917PA:

 

por2.jpg

 

This may be the ultimate version of a guide pin car!

 

por3.jpg

 

Thanks Rodney :)


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#47 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 February 2015 - 10:25 PM

Now that's seriously cool! Is that a Ferret back end on that chassis?

#48 dc-65x

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 10:15 PM

I'm not sure Paul but it looks like it might be. I'll let you know when I find out.
 
Meanwhile back at the Lotus 30 project.........it's finally finished! :dance3:
 
Lotus%2040%20after%2021.jpg
 
Here's a "before" shot. I think it was really worth the effort to save this moldy and rotting car:
 
Lotus%2040%20before-%2011.jpg 
 
Lotus%2040%20after%2019.jpg
 
I decided to mount a driver as I believe was originally done, directly to the motor. I also replaced the missing engine detail and added a roll bar:
 
Lotus%2040%20after%2014.jpg
 
I had to add some "pipe" to go with the engine "stacks":
 
Lotus%2040%20after%2020.jpg
 
I also decided to mount the body as it was originally. It was screwed down more or less solidly with felt washers between the chassis and the wood mounting blocks. I replaced the disintigrating felt washers with some neato "nice cushy 20thou. urethane washers" custom made and given to me by a fellow Slotbloger. Thank you Chris! :thank_you2:
 
Lotus%2040%20after%2018.jpg
 
The car ran smoothly with the body off but with this method of mounting it developed a "bounce" and was noisier.
 
Here's my trio of period beauties:
 
Lotus%2040%20after%2016.jpg
 
Lotus%2040%20after%2015.jpg
 
Lastly, I used the product pictured below on the Lotus bead blasted chassis and the metal was somehow transformed. PdL if your watching, this stuff might be the ultimate protection for LASCM's steel and brass chassis. It's good enough for the British Museum! Give it a "GOOGLE" :)
 
Renaissance%20Wax.jpg
 
 
 
Onward!


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#49 Hworth08

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 02:30 PM

What a handsome trio!

 

Decent chance the Lotus might lose it's bounce if it's possible to loosen the body screws about three quarters of a hair. We did that with T-jets in the same time period with very good results. We used "rattle bodies" quite a while before hinged body mounts.


Don Hollingsworth

#50 dc-65x

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 03:26 PM

Thanks Don. I bet the Lotus would handle better if I rattle fit the body. I'd have to get rid of the thick soft washers as the body would sit too high if I just backed the screws off. I'll just leave it the way the original builder had it for now.


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