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Russkit resto


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#1 Pete L.

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Posted 24 January 2015 - 05:55 PM

Folks,
 
The intent was to get down to the shop today and spend some time catching up with the stalled project list, I swear! Well, as they say, "the best laid plans... I came across a Russkit Porsche Carrera project that had been languishing for some time.
 
At first I just wanted to see what extra parts were in the project package. What I do is gather parts for a project and put them in a ziplock bag that is hung off of nails driven into the beams that support the floor overhead. I realized that I had accumulated a good bit of bits and pieces that were needed for the resto.
 
Two pair of original Russkit tires and a set of repro tires that were perfect for the Porsche.

DSCN4657.JPG

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DSCN4659.JPG
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#2 Pete L.

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Posted 24 January 2015 - 06:01 PM

We started to disassemble the car and see what was the shape of the vehicle. I was pleasantly surprised by the fairly clean and unscathed condition of the chassis. I cleaned up the chassis with some warm water and used paper towels and Q-tips to get the years of cag off of the car.
 
I have a brand-new Russkit motor that will be going into the car and a new guide shoe may also make it onto the project. And yes, that's another Russkit project waiting in the wings...

DSCN4658.JPG

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DSCN4669.JPG


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#3 Bill from NH

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Posted 24 January 2015 - 07:34 PM

My first commercial slot car in 1967 was a Russkit Porsche Carrera kit. It's been stored at my parent's former Maine house ever since I left home in 1969. I think all that's left of it is the chassis, wheels and tires, and the green Teflon-coated axles. 


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#4 Lone Wolf

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Posted 24 January 2015 - 09:41 PM

Very nice, Pete. Luckily you have that integral spur/wheel combo which is usually long gone. Also, that chassis is nice and clean. Very hard to find on that hasn't been hacked on one way or another. 

 

I think (not sure) that this car takes a "23" motor, with black and white wires, not the "22" shown.

 

Again, not sure if they came with either motor. In any event, it's not that important. Can't tell with the body on.   :)


Joe Lupo


#5 Pete L.

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Posted 24 January 2015 - 09:54 PM

Joe,

 

Thanks for the heads-up on the motor deal. The one you speak of is the one I pulled out of the car. I guess I'll put the original motor back in the car, maybe I can freshen it up while I'm at it.

 

Pete


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#6 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 10:58 AM

The Russkit 23 label has a red background, the 22's is black. That's how I keep them straight. The 23 arm is a little hotter than a 22, but I don't recall the winds. Also, I think the 23 has the heatsink brush tubes, while the 22 doesn't.

 

There are lots of Russkit 22 motors available out there, but few 23s, so I's rebuild the 23 I had, if possible. A comm cut and new brushes and springs might be all it needs. My Russkit Porsche came with a 23 motor, but I don't know if they were sold with both.


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#7 dc-65x

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 11:53 AM

Hi Pete,

 

Nice car! At first I was thinking you could make a hopped up version with some aftermarket parts. But it looks like you've got most of the bits to make a restored original.

 

The Opti Guide is "Korrect" for the car, not the packaged Small Slant Guide which would be great on a 1966 Rod & Custom Pro Car. Also "Korrect" is the red label Russkit 23 motor as mentioned.

 

Reproduction decals are also available.

 

Have fun and thanks for sharing your project!

 

Russkit Carrera 6 ad-1.jpg


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#8 Lone Wolf

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 12:28 PM

Pete, I should have some vintage black wire here if you need it. Let me know and I'll send some out. Yes, the "23" does have a hotter wind, heatsinks, and a red label. 

 

As far as the axles go, I always wanted to try the old Testors green in the bottle to try and duplicate that Teflon green on a standard axle. Not sure it would match exactly but I think it's close. I know it's not original but it may look OK. 

 

Luckily, you have both original axles. 


Joe Lupo


#9 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 01:10 PM

Joe,

 

Thanks for the offer of the black wire but it actually is still on the motor. With the work area being in the cellar and the computer being upstairs, my memory has to serve me as a reference source.. .sometimes it's "offline".

 

I'll try to get some work done this afternoon and post some more pics soon.


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#10 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 01:30 PM

Rick,

 

Thanks for your assistance, the Otiguide will go back on the car as well as the original motor. I have an aftermarket body that I could use (Lotus 30), I even have the accessories for the body, exhaust, rollbar and injectors.

 

What I'm wondering is what type of glue I should use to adhere the styrene plastic parts to the newer Lexan body?

 

 

Thanks,


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#11 dc-65x

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 01:46 PM

Hi Pete,
 

What I'm wondering is what type of glue I should use to adhere the styrene plastic parts to the newer Lexan body ?

 
Are you sure it's Lexan and not PETG? I've used ZAP type glues and silicone adhesives on PETG and butyrate bodies.
 
Maybe others can chime in on glue for Lexan.


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#12 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 02:44 PM

Rick,
 
Great, after a preliminary search I can't find  the body... I had it in my hand yesterday along with the accessory kit?  :dash2: I'll look again later. I'm pretty sure it's a ---- -----  ( correction  ELECTRIC DREAMS body, and yes it's PETG !!!!!!!!!!!!!


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#13 dc-65x

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 03:20 PM

True Scale had several repops of Russkit bodies. They were offered in .020" PETG. Hopefully Victor reopens his website they will still be offered.  :unknw:


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#14 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 03:39 PM

As far as the axles go, I always wanted to try the old Testors green in the bottle to try and duplicate that Teflon green on a standard axle. Not sure it would match exactly but I think it's close. I know it's not original but it may look OK. 

One alternative might be a bottle of green liquid insulation  it the electrical department of a home center or hardware store. In one Home Depot, I saw 6-8 different colors. I needed a bottle of white at the time, but have forgotten what I used it for.


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#15 Lone Wolf

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 04:24 PM

Bill, that would probably be too thick. 

 

Instead of thinking about it I just went ahead and did it. The original Russkit axle is on the left, freshly painted aluminum axle right. You can see the paint at the bottom. Maybe as old as I am LOL. Looks pretty close. I think with a coat of clear flat you would be good. Remember that Russkit coating has been on there for 50 years. I guess you could juggle the color with a little black if you want. Anyway, here it is for your perusal. 

 

DSC05812.JPG

 

 


Joe Lupo


#16 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 06:42 PM

Joe, I have some of those dime bottles of Testors paint too. :laugh2: In the photo, your color match looks pretty close. As I recall, the green teflon has a flat finish. Fine sandpaper or some other type of abrasive could be used to cut the shine of the paint. I also thought I read somewhere another color of teflon was also used, but that may have been on some reproduction axles.


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#17 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 08:08 PM

Joe,

 

 Excellent match for the green !!!


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#18 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 08:13 PM

Fellas,

 

Here's a shot of the completed chassis with the original motor (Russkit 23) and the original guide shoe (Opti-Guide) reinstalled along with a pair of repro rear tires. Thanks to Joe and Rick for help sorting out the right parts for the car! :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

 

Also pics of the body placed on the chassis. I have some repro decals floating around somewhere that I'd like to apply tomorrow if I can locate them.

 

The driver and interior leave a lot to be desired, I'll have to look around to see if I've got some other Russkit stuff.

 

DSCN4673.JPG

 

DSCN4679.JPG

 

DSCN4680.JPG


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#19 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 08:17 PM

Fellas,

 

I noticed what seems to be a clear coating of sorts on the body, I'm not sure if it can be seen in the photos. It's most apparent on the rear pan of the body, I suppose it the body protecting coating that Russkit developed to protect the decals on slot car bodies.

 

The coating seems to have yellowed...

 

DSCN4678.JPG

 


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#20 Lone Wolf

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 09:33 PM

Pete, it looks great.  :victory:

 

I would not touch the body except for a three-part polish with Novus and maybe paint the wiper arm and blade which will help mask the yellowing. It is almost 50 years old and is supposed to look it. After a polish add the decals and your set.

 

I would also wash the tires including tread with Dawn and a toothbrush and then Armor-All all four if you are just going to display it.

 

Just my opinion of course, your car, your rules.  :laugh2:


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#21 dc-65x

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 09:54 PM

Looking nice, Pete!  :good:


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#22 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 09:54 PM

Joe,

 

I'm planning on running it, cleaning, and decals as well as your suggestion for the wiper blade will hopefully get done in a day or so.

 

I  just don't like the interior... that's still up in the air.


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#23 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 09:56 PM

Rick,

 

Thank you!


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#24 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 09:58 PM

Peter,

 

It doesn't show in the photos but is the yellowing all over the body? I believe those early Russkit bodies were made of butyrate, which tends to yellow with age and in the presence of UV rays. I think that's probably what happened to your body.

 

I don't recall Russkit or anyone else  applying anything to a pre-painted body to protect future user-applied decals. I do think they sold bottles of a protecting liquid to be user-applied over whatever decals the user chose to apply.


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#25 dc-65x

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 09:59 PM

What don't you like about the interior, Pete? Is it the lack of detail painting from the factory or the interior insert itself?


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#26 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 10:05 PM

Rick,

 

The paint on the driver is "fuzzy". I might have one that's a bit less so. I don't want to over-restore the interior.

 

Besides, I've got the Lotus with the parts kit for another option.

 

DSCN4677.JPG

 

 


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#27 Pete L.

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 10:12 PM

Bill,

 

The normal yellowing is familiar to me, there is some sort of coating on it that comes off with some scraping with a fingernail. We'll see tomorrow what I can come up with, maybe polishing like Joe recommended with Novus.


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#28 dc-65x

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 10:14 PM

That's what I thought. That interior looks really good detailed. Leave it as the factory made it or detail it like an owner might have...


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#29 Lone Wolf

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:44 AM

Pete, I cringed a little when you said you were going to race it. I had a couple beautiful vintage bodies ruined on the track. Make sure you race in a controlled environment if you do actually race it.

 

Those old bodies just don't take kindly to bumps, bruises, and crashes. 

 

If they make a repop I'd probably go that route to race it. 

 

Again, just my 2 cents that are probably worth less than that.   :)


Joe Lupo


#30 Pete L.

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 10:35 AM

Joe,

 

No racing, I'm just going to run it around the track when the C.A.R.S. club gets together.  We haven't wrecked a car unintentionally in years!!! :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 12:06 PM

That's the way to "see it move", Pete, while keeping it safe. Have fun! :)


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#32 mdiv

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 06:24 PM

Looking good, Pete!  Mikey Likey.

 

Looking forward to seeing it in person in February.

 

Mike


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#33 Pete L.

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 08:11 PM

Mikey,

 

Thanks, it should be done by then... I polished up the body today and did some touch-up painting. The decals were located and will be applied tomorrow.

 

I also found another unpainted interior bucket, maybe I'll just go ahead and do it up and see how it turns out.

 

Pete


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#34 Pete L.

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 10:49 AM

Fellas,

 

I did some detailing last night with a Sharpie... I'll live with it for a bit and see how I feel about moving on with or without the Sharpie effect. Meanwhile I'll do up the one wheel insert I need to finish that part of the build.

 

And I took Joe's above advice on painting the wiper blade, I like it!

 

DSCN4687.JPG

 

DSCN4686.JPG

 

DSCN4690.JPG


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#35 Pete L.

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Posted 28 January 2015 - 07:57 PM

Folks,

 

Minor setback today regarding the decals, most didn't survive the water bath, as they disintegrated in short order! I've had them for some time so it's not as though it happened unexpectedly. 

 

I'm presently waiting for a new set I got today from the popular bid/buy site...

 

By the way, can someone show me the gas cap that came in these body kits for the Russkit Porsche? 

 

I know there were some injectors and a drivers head and maybe mirrors as well. I've had the envelope for decades but the parts are another story.

 

DSCN4681.JPG


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#36 dc-65x

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Posted 28 January 2015 - 10:07 PM

Pete,

 

Jairus clued me in to using Testors Gloss Coat lacquer on decals. A light coat or two before dunking into water has worked wonders for my decal efforts. Try it as an experiment and see what you think.


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#37 Lone Wolf

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 11:32 AM

Pete, I was going to mention that if you were using old decals to clear them first but when I saw the new ones I did not figure you would have a problem. Sorry to hear about it but it is a very common ailment.

 

When you clear the decals use as little of clear as you can as they can become stiff with too many coats. Do a little experimenting. Also, get your magnifiers and a brand new X-Acto blade to cut the decals as close as possible to the design; makes for a much cleaner look.

 

Lastly, I don't have a virgin parts kit here but I am not sure it came with a gas cap as one is molded in the body. Not sure here.

 

Wait, I just checked a couple of my Porsches and one is molded in and one is separate so I guess they may have come with a cap in some of the parts kits.

 

Anyway, a fantastic slam-lock cap can be made with a screw and a straight pin ala the DC-65X method.


Joe Lupo


#38 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 12:38 PM

Hi Pete,

 

My Russkit Porsche doesn't have a molded in recess for a gas cap like the Lotus 40???

 

You have the "Korrect" injectors showing in post #34.

 

Onward!


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#39 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 12:43 PM

"Korrection"... my repop doesn't have a recess for a gas cap but my original does:wacko2:


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#40 Lone Wolf

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 02:50 PM

More mysteries outside the museum  :dash2:

 

Here are two cars which I believe are original. There is a ton of differences in the bodies. Lets start with the harder to find Spyder version.

 

DSC05831.JPG

 

DSC05832.JPG

 

1. Headlights clear and much shorter.

2. Tailights smaller and more detailed.

3. Louvres on rear window.

4. Vents lower and more detailed at rear quarter leading edge.

5. Windshield wiper molded in (none on other car)

6. Many differences in nose area, recessed hood pins, no emblem, etc.

7. Gas cap not molded in, separate chrome part.

8. Spoiler larger with rivet detail.

9. Body slightly shorter.

10. Rear valance shaped very different.

11. Lots of other junk I probably missed  :laugh2:

 

Are these both original Russkit bodies? What do you think?

 

PS: Up until today they were in a showcase and I thought they were exactly the same.


Joe Lupo


#41 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 03:14 PM

Hi Pete,

 

I have a new in the box, factory silver-painted Lancer #PS 143 Porsche Carrera 6 body. It's a dead ringer for your #9 car.


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#42 Lone Wolf

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 03:40 PM

Hey, call me anything but Pete :o

 

OK, does anyone know if Lancer supplied Russkit with bodies or did someone change this 40 years ago for some unknown reason.


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#43 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 04:08 PM

Sorry, Joe!    :blush:


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#44 Pete L.

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 04:38 PM

Fellas,

 

I never knew there were two different Russkit Porsches..."Very Interesting"! It looks as though I have the #22 body on the Carrera chassis; it is a tight fit. 

 

As far as the decals are concerned I too was surprised that they came apart. There's a set coming in the mail that are computer generated, I wonder if they're the answer?

 

 

Pete


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#45 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 04:59 PM

Russkit made a coupe and roadster version of the Porsche. Joe's number 22 car above is the Russkit coupe. My number 9 car below the Russkit  roadster version:

 

Porsche Roadster enlarged.jpg

 

Joe's number 9 car is a Lancer Porsche Carrera 6 coupe, not a Russkit.


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#46 Pete L.

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 06:21 PM

Rick,

 

The only other place I've seen that body is in Philippe's first book.

 

Really slick, I wonder if that particular body was ever sold separately, clear or painted, or if it just came as a RTR?


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#47 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 06:37 PM

Since I painted the pictured body back in 1967, the only other ones I've seen have been factory painted RTRs. My friend and co-worker at Crawford's Raceway in Southern California got the body. I'm not sure if it was commercially available or if he got it from one of the Team Russkit guys.


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#48 Pete L.

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 07:07 PM

Rick,

 

Great story, do you still have the car?


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#49 dc-65x

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Posted 29 January 2015 - 07:30 PM

I wish I still had the car! I have a picture and the trophy in the picture. Larry entered the car in the first 1967 Car Model Magazine Race and finished third in the concours event with it.


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#50 Lone Wolf

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Posted 30 January 2015 - 08:31 AM

Well, I don't know how that Lancer body got on that chassis but it is staying there.

 

Now this leaves me to find a correct car with the pan chassis and I must someday find one of those wonderful roadsters as shown by Rick. Don't think I've ever actually seen one for sale. 

 

To sum up, great save, Pete.


Joe Lupo






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