13 replies to this topic

[Jay Guard]

Hi Guys:

 

I hope to make a few of the My Series races this year but short of buying a couple of each of the myriad of motors on the various class lists can someone tell me what is the predominate (i.e. fastest) motor in each class?  I know it's possible that there are maybe two competitive motors in each class, and there's always the speed vs handling thing but generally there's one that is "the motor" to be running.  If one motor is the best at some tracks but another is best at another track that would be great to know too.  I realize that this is kind of a speed secret short-cut but I suspect this is really pretty much common knowledge.

 

Due to my somewhat transient situation (only live in NSB part of the year) I really don't have the time to try to work this out through the normal purchase and test routine.   This (inside) information will help me to compete in the most races possible.  Any info that you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks!

[Wizard Of Iz]

Jay .... we're looking forward to seeing you at "a race near you soon."

 

NASCAR - Most guys run the Hawk Retro in either a JK Cheetah 11 .030 or JK Cheetah X25 center with .025  pans.  There are only a few guys at our track that run the Pro Slot FLA16D  ..... but a couple of them are really fast.  The track record was set with a Hawk Retro at the race in February.

 

LMP by JK - Most guys run the Hawk 6 in the same chassis combo as NASCAR though there are a few brave souls with great reflexes that run a full .025 C11.  Again, a few guys run the Hawk 7 --- but the Hawk 6 is just as fast and is rebuildable.  Glue the endbell bushing in --- they're all loose from the factory --- and align the hardware.  I flip the can just so I can move the positive lead to the front of the motor so I don't mess up and wire it to run backward.  Most guys change the brushes and springs and the biggest improvement for these motors is to have the original armature reconditioned.  (We sell pre-conditioned armatures for these motors).  The track record was set with a Hawk 6.  In the nearly four years that we've used this motor in our LMP class, I bet I've used less than ten motors --- and my cars are typically WAY better than their driver.

 

GTP - The Hawk 6 setup with a Pro Slot Big Dog armature has pretty much taken over.  Change the endbell hardware if you want.  Add a ball bearing to the can end and change the brushes and springs.

 

Group F - The series winner last year used a Hawk 7.  We seem to be in a good batch right now.  But I've seen some really fast Hawk 6's, too.

 

Group 12 - I'm not the guy to answer this one.  I have a car but it's really just to avoid marshaling.

 

I hope this helps. 

 

No doubt there will be a number of other opinions.  And probably from guys a lot faster than me.

 

Enjoy!!

[Michael Rigsby]

Jay, pretty much go by what Rollin put up. He and Johnny run a great track and we run My Series rules in ALL our classes (the only raceway in Florida that does). The Retro Hawk in NASCAR is really good, it's just that the brakes from motor to motor are inconsistent, but the performance is pretty equal.

 

I still run the Hawk 6 in Group F and won't go back to the Hawk 7 even though the comms are tied now. The performance edge does go to the Hawk 7 though.

 

Hawk 6 in LMP/GT-1 is a winner and easy to set up.

[CoastalAngler1]

Look out if Jay races on the Jax Florida Orange - he can drive flat tracks for sure!

 

3 motors: NASCAR - RH, GT1/LMP - H6, GTP - H6BD

 

Not sure about GPF or GP12, not there yet...

[DOCinCanton]

Rollin gave great advise above. I wanted to point out that the Hawk6 arm in LMP class can not have the comm tie wrapped. The arm can be balanced and the comm trued, but the comm can not be tied.

[Danny Zona]

I'm glad to see your gonna race some My Series races, Jay. We have tough competition in FL. Last race in Jacksonville Biscuit only qualified in the B main in nascar and had to move-up to make the A main. He didn't make it out of the B main in GTP. The FL boys are fast.!

[CoastalAngler1]

Can someone clarify the rule for Hawk 6 endbell in LMP?  If the arm is not tied, must the EB be light colored (white)?

[Michael Rigsby]

The legal hawk 6 end bell is natural colored, or white if you prefer

[Jay Guard]

Great "inside" info guys, just what I was looking for.  I'll be down in Florida during April and May.  Probably a bit on and off during the summer but I'll be back again in fall and December for sure.  Looking forward to racing with y'all !!

[DOCinCanton]

The end bell for the LMP Hawk 6 motor must be the stock one. It can not be changed out for any other end bell.

[Mark Wampler]

I'm not familiar with "My Series" races.  So the question may only pertain to that particular series.  That said, I think overall, slow may be faster.  NorCal enjoys 3 retro classes using the S7 Mini-Brute.  The only race circuit that I know which uses the MB for Retro racing.

I'm all about setup and driver skills.  Speed is somewhat of a relative thing. FWIW.

[Danny Zona]

Hey Mark, the My Series is our flexi and wings form of racing series.

Our retro series is GRRR, which uses IRRA® rules.

[Mark Wampler]

Okay on that, thanks.

[Wizard Of Iz]

Can someone clarify the rule for Hawk 6 endbell in LMP?  If the arm is not tied, must the EB be light colored (white)?

 

 

The legal hawk 6 end bell is natural colored, or white if you prefer

 

 

The end bell for the LMP Hawk 6 motor must be the stock one. It can not be changed out for any other end bell.

 

These are - in my opinion - the correct answers to Charlie's question.

 

The intent of the rules in the LMP and Group F classes is to keep things as affordable as possible while allowing guys to blueprint the STOCK parts to improve performance and add longevity.  Let's face it, every Hawk 6 comes with an endbell bushing that needs to be glued in.

 

No swapping of parts with the JK Hawk motor. No wrapped comms. 

 

Guys .... please don't screw this up.  And encourage our fellow racers not to screw this up.   I'd really like to keep a rebuildable, inexpensive motor as an option.  These motors run really well - and for a long time - without changing the parts.  

 

By the way ..... I've asked Johnny not to use dark-colored dyes on the endbells on the motors he blueprints.  He ran out of the red dye that he traditionally has used and dyed a couple green.  Unfortunately, the green is so dark that it could be easily mistaken for black.