12 replies to this topic

[JerseyJohn]

HELP... A friend of mine has a Micek-Kopriwa top of line Pro 3 controller. It was hooked up wrong. It now only partially works. After looking it over, here is what I know. When hooked up the digital display, choke display, and fans work.

 

When triggered, all of the controller bingo lights work. Including the blast relay. Yet nothing comes out of the black wire to the motor. I don't see any breakers or fuses. Nothing looks apparently burned or overheated.

 

Kopriwa is MIA so I am winging it....

 

I changed out the transistors with no change... ANY IDEAS?

 

Thank you...

 

JJ

 

 

 

[Bernie]

Contact Andy Brown at AB Slotsports. He sells them. He may be able to point you in the right direction.

Good luck...

[Half Fast]

Hey what do you expect for $1000?

 

Answer: That it not blow up because of a miswire.

 

Cheers

[JerseyJohn]

Contact Andy Brown at AB Slotsports. He sells them. He may be able to point you in the right direction.

Thanks, Bernie. I did that. I'vereached out to Jiri Micek so we shall see...

[drrufo]

John, try looking at the brake pot, if it has one. I would check the brake, any fuses, and the transistors. Did you look at the transistors out of the circuit?

I fixed a Prof. Motor that blew the transistor, the six position brake switch and a 1/8" jumper. The jumper went between two points on the circuit board. I had to use my son's PM controller to find the missing jumper.

Is the relay working right? Did you solder another relay in the circuit? Are there any small wires on the relay?
 
Those are my guesses.
 
John

[smichslot]

Try this:
 
I have looked at this type of controller a number of times, and the most frequent problem seems to be that one of the resistors on the switchboard has been burned.

It could also be that one of the resistors (the one closest to the full-power-trigger-band) is burned. Try a DMM to check it.

If black and white wire has been switched around it could also be that the protection-diode has burned and have taken some other part with it.
 
It's a fine controller, but it's not straightforward to repair. And a lot of special parts inside.
 
Steen

[zipper]

BTW Steen, about CS-4: the step from bypass to choke set on zero seems excessive for faster wing cars (G7, OMO, G27), it's about equivalent to 4 ft. Can it be altered?

[JerseyJohn]

Thank you all for the great advice... Slot people are the best!!!

[smichslot]

Hi Zipper,

 

the resistance ("wire-") choke on the CS-4 can be adjusted to your needs. All the CS-4-controlers thus far has been calibrated to run scale-cars, which means that Maximum choke is 0.25 ohm (equal to 30 feet).

 

I can certainly imagine that a wing car would want never to see 30 feet, and the choke can be adjusted to be as much as you want.

all you need is a fixed load (1.2 ohm/100W) or a constant-current-load of 10A, plus a DMM

 

Measure the voltage over the controller at full choke, and adjust it to the value you want. The multi-turn-potentiomer is under the braket that holds to controller on the side wall of the track.

 

If in doubt I will do it at no cost. Just send the controller to me.

 

Best regards

 

Steen

[zipper]

Thx, I'll have a look at it.

[JerseyJohn]

Controller on its way to Jiri Micek. Thanks all for your help...

[smichslot]

Zipper,

 

A bit of thinking while I was asleep made me realize that something might be wrong with the controller you have measured.

 

When I adjust the choke the difference between the choke in or out (minimum pot position) is less than 3 milliohm, which is half a foot. I measure with a constant current of 10A, and even if a wing-car might pull several time more it will not make any difference.

 

In other words: you measure 10 times as much as I do.

Let me know what you find, and if you would like me to help please let me know.

 

BR

 

Steen

[zipper]

OK, but I'm not in a hurry - no races until autumn.