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Pittman DC196A - 65X Powerhouse


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#26 dc-65x

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Posted 11 April 2015 - 08:32 PM

The almost finished chassis:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-34.jpg

 

The top frame rails were left long......for now:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-35.jpg

 

Skinny motor so I might as well put it in a skinny car. :crazy: I added some basic suspension detail to the front:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-36.jpg

 

Pittman%20196-65X-37.jpg

 

I notched the rear bearing gizmos and added these bits:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-38.jpg

 

OK, so what skinny car? How about one of these:

 

 

Jimmy Clark's 1962 British Grand Prix winner:

 

1962-gp-de-gran-bretac3b1a-jim-clark-s-l

 

WEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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#27 SlotStox#53

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Posted 11 April 2015 - 10:55 PM

Not much else to say except Onward!

#28 Hworth08

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Posted 12 April 2015 - 09:23 AM

So simple, so elegant, and the period  so missed by those who experienced it.


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Don Hollingsworth

#29 SlotStox#53

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Posted 12 April 2015 - 09:39 AM

So simple, so elegant, and the period  so missed by those who experienced it.


I never experienced that period of slot car history /tech and I miss it . Would love to of been around when these cars were cutting edge :)

#30 dc-65x

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Posted 12 April 2015 - 10:37 AM

So simple, so elegant, and the period  so missed by those who experienced it.

 

I'm hoping the slot car will be the same. A driver's car that can be tail out drifted around corners.....car control not just quick reflexes to punch a car from corner to corner.

 

In the mid 60's I remember everyone running "German" tires and the cars were drifted around the turns. We were fudging scale and running smaller diameter tires. For this car I'm going to try scale size wheels and tires:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-24.jpg

 

1965-ish Russkit wheels, threaded front and set screw rears, Russkit front tires, Ortmann-Russkit rear tires, Revell Lotus "wobbly-web" wheel inserts, beautiful Cox precision flanged aluminum axle nuts and unknown (Aristocraft??) independent rotating front axle. This axle is much more precise and robust than the more common Ulrich junker.

 

If the Ortmann's don't work out I can try some Paul's Slot Car Shop urethane's and as a last resort, period 30mm "Germans".

 

The Revell wheels inserts are .525" and the Russkit wheel ID's are .500" so I bored out the wheels to fit:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-23.jpg

 

Both front and rear tires were glued to the rims and lightly trued:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-25.jpg

 

The tread on the fronts was recut:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-26.jpg

 

I found the different color wheels on this particular interesting:

 

1962-gp-de-gran-bretac3b1a-jim-clark-s-l

 

After painting my wheel inserts I found this picture showing only 1 yellow wheel on the right side:

 

76274041076cd4b59fa598d484974a37.jpg

 

Oh well, maybe he ran 2 yellow wheels in practice? :crazy:


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#31 dc-65x

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 10:42 AM

K&B 4:1 bevel gears:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-39.jpg

 

Russkit slant guide:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-40.jpg

 

Cox Superflex lead wires:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-41.jpg

 

Looks better on the track:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-42.jpg

 

It really scoots! :shok:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-43.jpg

 

Surprising speed, good brakes and smooth predictable handling. What's not to like? This is a good car and very fun to drive.

 

I thought I might have a problem with wheelies since the car is so light. I left the drop arm very basic is case I need to add weight or lock it up solid.......or both:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-35.jpg

 

With the handling OK, I'll beef up the drop arm up a bit..........


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#32 Gator Bob

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 11:14 AM

Well done Captain !  :good:

 

It's a 'classy chassis' for sure. :heart:

 

Thanks for the arm OD dimension.


Posted Image
                            Bob Israelite

#33 Hworth08

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 11:26 AM

Rick, 

 

Don't believe I've ever seen a "bolt-on drop arm" on a scratch built frame but I can see where that could be better.

 

Are the 2-56 screws threaded into a length of 3/32nds tubing placed inside an 1/8th inch tube?

 

Quickly changed drop arms would have been a tuning tool. Different length and weight arms might have been an advantage plus allowing easy repair.

 

Never too old to learn! :)


Don Hollingsworth

#34 Lone Wolf

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 11:58 AM

UMM, Holy s@%t ! Absolutely masterful. 

 

When I look at some of the "sloppy" things they built for magazine articles back in the day they were nowhere near the craftsmanship shown here.

 

Although you make it look easy, It surely is not. 


Joe Lupo


#35 dc-65x

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 12:16 PM

Glad I could help Bob. You know, Bob Braverman built a 1/32 scale (although a rather large 1/32 scale :crazy: ) rail dragster using a Pittman 196. He ran a 12V version on 30V or so. My little car runs so well and seems to still be pulling at the end of my straight even with 4:1 gearing. Makes me want to try a 196/65-6V on a 14V on the strip. :dance3:

 

Hi Don, like you suggest, I wanted to be able to configure the drop arm based on how the car handled...would it be a wheel stander and need a heavier arm for example? As a machinist I was always screwing things together so I just drilled and tapped each end of a piece of 1/8" K&S brass rod 2-56....done.

 

Thanks Joe. Mike Steube's scratch building video really motivated me. He soldered things together and went back with more heat, flux and maybe a tiny bit more solder until the joints were nice and smooth. I do my best to try and do the same thing.

 

That said, I'm not using a Weller electric soldering gun like the guys in the magazines anymore either! :laugh2:


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#36 Gator Bob

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 01:27 PM

:D

 

How about 14.7v ? ;)


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                            Bob Israelite

#37 dc-65x

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 02:32 PM

WEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

scan0204.jpg


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#38 boxerdog

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 03:23 PM

My stock 196-powered 1/32 rail ran 1.502 at the V-town event.on lower voltage and a full 55 feet....I think your hot-rod motor would shock a lot of the big boys in a rail!! Just a thought. 


David Cummerow

#39 dc-65x

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 08:26 PM

I remember your smoke'n 196 rail David. It almost smoked my 3 volt RAM. :shok:  You're right, I do need to build one. :crazy:

 

I finished up the mechanical aspects of the car with a beefed up drop arm with a down stop that also serves as a cross brace:

 

Pittman%20196-65X-44.jpg

 

I fit the down stop arm between the axle tube and the drop arm up stop. The result is very little "drop" (movement) which I think is usually a good thing on today's tracks. But hey, a vintage West Coast car has got to have a drop arm: 

 

Pittman%20196-65X-45.jpg

 

Time to get the body and it's goodies together.........


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#40 mdiv

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 08:28 PM

Looking good, Capt. Rick!

Inspirational to say the least.  Never got to finish mine...

Mikey


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#41 SlotStox#53

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Posted 13 April 2015 - 09:06 PM

My stock 196-powered 1/32 rail ran 1.502 at the V-town event.on lower voltage and a full 55 feet....I think your hot-rod motor would shock a lot of the big boys in a rail!! Just a thought. 


That reminds me... got a couple of 196B's stored ready for action, could be time for an F1 inspired by this amazing build by Rick and mention of your fast 196 dragster David :D

#42 Pablo

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Posted 14 April 2015 - 05:12 AM

Mere words can't possibly do it justice, so I'll just do this: :heart: :heart: :heart:

 

I'd add more but Cheater frowns on too many :D


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#43 dc-65x

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Posted 24 April 2015 - 06:38 PM

"Slowly I turned, step by step, inch by inch"............I get closer to finishing a project. :wacko2: :crazy:

 

I'm using for the body build:

 

An original Lancer Lotus 25 body

Russkit "Praying Mantis" driver

Revell BRM mirrors

Paint brush ferrules for exhaust pipes

1/16" aluminum tube for the roll bar

 

And I thought I was going to make the velocity stacks from 1/8" aluminum tube:

 

Pittman%20196-65X%20Body-%205.jpg

 

After I drilled 1/8" holes in the body I remembered I had 8 smaller diameter, pre-formed velocity stacks left over from a previous build. I came up with a "fix". I used brass axle spacers as a reducer for the smaller stacks:

 

Pittman%20196-65X%20Body-%201.jpg

 

An exhaust "trumpet" made from the donor paint brush:

 

Pittman%20196-65X%20Body-%204.jpg

 

The driver's body and the interior base needed to be clearanced for the motor's brush spring. The mirrors were drilled and fitted with .047" wire mounts. I also inserted wire into the drivers head to hang onto while painting:

 

Pittman%20196-65X%20Body-%203.jpg

 

The body ready for paint:

 

Pittman%20196-65X%20Body-%202.jpg

 

I'm going to try and mix up a green that looks like this picture. I know a picture is not necessarily the exact color of the real car but I kind of like the color:

 

1962-gp-de-gran-bretac3b1a-jim-clark-s-l

 

Here are the ingredients.........we'll see what happens:

 

Pittman%20196-65X%20Body-.jpg

 

Where's the airbrush........... :crazy:


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#44 SlotStox#53

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Posted 24 April 2015 - 06:54 PM

Onward with the airbrush Rick :D

Really love the look of that car in the picture with its odd colored wheels :good:

After some hurried dragster finishing , household renovation and looking at some 1969 race projects ;) , I can see a 196B powered build in the future :)

#45 dc-65x

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Posted 24 April 2015 - 06:57 PM

 

...........I can see a 196B powered build in the future :)

 

You should Paul. It really makes for a fun car. :victory:


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#46 SlotStox#53

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Posted 25 April 2015 - 07:35 AM

Will do Rick :good:

At the Hornchurch club Dad raced at back in the day their lap record for F1's was still held by a 196B powered car when it closed in 69/70. That's even with their 2 club rewinders winding some hot can motors!

#47 dc-65x

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 07:48 PM

I just finished a 1/2 MGD paint job. I tried to mix a more olive green like the picture but I didn't like what I created......kind of a muddy green look. I dumped in some flat sea blue and this is what I ended up with:

 

Pittman%20196-65X%20Body-%206.jpg

 

At least it's a different shade than my other 2 Lotus 25's. :crazy: :wacko2:


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#48 Gator Bob

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 07:51 PM

Looks like you 'nailed it'.


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                            Bob Israelite

#49 SlotStox#53

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 07:54 PM

Nice :good: Sounds like you could mix up a large batch of Lotus specific paint Rick for future projects :)

Only half a MGD paint job,went smoothly then :laugh2:

#50 dc-65x

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Posted 27 April 2015 - 08:06 PM

Thanks Bob :)

 

 

Only half a MGD paint job,went smoothly then :laugh2:

 

Exactly! :crazy:


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