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My first resin kit-bodied slot car... holey smokes!


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#76 dc-65x

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 09:05 PM

Thanks for the tips, Chris; they are much appreciated.  :good:


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#77 dc-65x

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 06:37 PM

Here's the finished drop arm made with a Dynamic pillow block, assorted tubing and a 3-56 threaded pivot rod:

 

C4R%20Build%2076.jpg

 

The chassis is finished... at least until its first track test:

 

C4R%20Build%2074.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2075.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2071.jpg

 

I can't wait to get all the parts installed so I can see this baby "move"...


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#78 slotbaker

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 06:48 PM

:heart: Wow...


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#79 Jairus

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 07:43 PM

Yeah, Steve, "Wow"! :heat:


Jairus H Watson - Artist
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#80 dc-65x

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 08:27 PM

Thanks! :)

 

I really enjoy trying to dream up pin tube space frames for the old open frame and laminated pole piece motors.

 

Speaking of dreaming things up, here's what I came up with for an independent front axle using collet lock wheels:

 

C4R%20Build%2068.jpg

 

A spacer soldered on the end of the axle, as per usual. The collet lock wheel nut is snugged down until the wheel spins freely and the nut held in place with a drop of green "wicking grade" Loctite:

 

C4R%20Build%2069.jpg

 

I jump at any chance to use Weldon 64P spur gears on sidewinders or bevel gear sets on inlines and this car was no exception:

 

C4R%20Build%2065.jpg

 

The Pittman's data sheet recommended a 3.5:1 gear ratio so that's what I went with.

 

On a side note, I find the 3.5 ratio gear sets the hardest to find today... and perhaps the most often mentioned in the old race reports.

 

She's almost on the track...  :dance3:


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#81 dc-65x

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 03:36 PM

I got a Revell guide to fit just barely in front of the axle tube. The guide collar is actually slightly under the axle:
 
C4R%20Build%2064.jpg
 
The drop arm downward motion is restrained by the outside drop arm tubes contacting the front bulkhead:
 
C4R%20Build%2067.jpg
 
Here she is ready to roll:
 
C4R%20Build%2078.jpg
 
C4R%20Build%2060.jpg
 
C4R%20Build%2061.jpg
 
I like the way the motor mounts worked out. I stressed over how to do this neatly and this method turned out to be so simple:
 
C4R%20Build%2063.jpg
 
Time for the track test...


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#82 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:36 PM

Superb.  :good: :D

Almost looks like the chassis belongs under a Maserati Birdcage. Those motor mounts are so simple and a great idea!



#83 slotbaker

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:36 PM

Hope she goes as good as she looks.

:good:


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#84 dc-65x

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 06:18 PM

Man, this baby's got some grunt! :shok:  I didn't expect this kind of power from a DC77 even if it is a 6 volt. It has DC65-6 speed. I tried it with the body off and it was really snappy. So much so the nose got light and it popped out of the slot half way down the main straight... not good.

 

Putting the body on settled it down a bit but the nose was still getting light down the straight. It was scary to drive. I expected to see a wall shot at any moment.

 

C4R%20Build%2079.jpg

 

I tried locking up the drop arm to put the full weight of the car on the guide and that helped but it was still too snappy and wanted to get airborne.

 

Time to add some weight as I don't want another mishap like this with a lightweight front end getting airborne:

 

PittmanDC-65HSC-076.jpg

 

PittmanDC-65HSC-081.jpg

 

I added a couple of hunks of Luck Bob's thick lead to the top of the drop arm. The small hunk stops the drop arm from moving:

 

C4R%20Build%2080.jpg

 

Three pieces of thin Slick 7 lead on the bottom cover up the sticky tape on the bottom of the Lucky Bob's lead:

 

C4R%20Build%2081.jpg

 

That did the trick. It's now very stable and finally, easy to drive at the limit.

 

I did notice that the acceleration is a bit less with the extra weight which surprised me a bit. I've added that much weight to a hot 16D powered car and not noticed a reduction in acceleration. I guess that's why the builders in the early '60s were so concerned about keeping the weight down on their cars.

 

Arrrggh... time to work on the body...   :o


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#85 HarV Wallbanger III

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 07:42 PM

Beautiful chassis porn, Rick!


Barney Poynor
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Hello my name is Barney and I was... I am addicted to glue, magnets, and wings... I have been clean and sober years now... NOW I'm hooked on 1/32 club track racing! Dang!
 

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#86 Jairus

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 09:01 PM

Enough fooling around. Time to PAINT! :diablo:


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#87 dc-65x

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 09:13 PM

I know, I know... the car is "worthy" of my struggles, too. I had more track time with it and it's really fun.

 

I can't help but think if more people were exposed to driving cars like this, with a proper controller (not a Parma Turbo or the like), they would have an absolute blast.


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#88 MSwiss

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 09:23 PM

Proper vintage or proper modern?

Mike Swiss
 
Inventor of the Low CG guide flag 4/20/18
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#89 James Wendel

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 10:48 PM

Wow, Rick... another beautiful build. Your attention to detail is astounding. Even the the lead additions are impeccable. 

 

I have heard some people say that painting resin bodies can be problematic. They have recommended using a lacquer-based primer. Personally, I have had good results with Tamiya "Fine Surface Primer".


You can't always get what you want...

#90 dc-65x

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 12:16 AM

Proper vintage or proper modern?

 
Hi Mike,
 
"Proper" meaning any controller that works with 50-year old motors and isn't just an on/off switch. I use a Ruddock electronic controller. It will work with anything from a Pittman "boat motor" to a modern Eurosport. A vintage Cox variable ohm 7-1/2 to 15 would be fine, too.
 

... Personally, I have had good results with Tamiya "Fine Surface Primer".

 

Thanks, James. The Tamiya primer and paint is exactly what I've got ordered for this build... thanks again!


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#91 dc-65x

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 04:00 PM

Help please... hardbody modelers, I'm not sure what to do about this...   :unknw:

 

I need to beef up the very weak front end and still have room for the guide. I came up with a sheet of .020" thick plastic:

 

C4R%20Build%2084.jpg

 

It will be glued to the inside of the body after it's painted, like so...

 

C4R%20Build%2083.jpg

 

... then I can lather on JB Weld epoxy to the entire inside of the nose.

 

C4R%20Build%2082.jpg

 

Now I could just paint the thing flat black and be done with it but I've been thinking about trying to give it some texture or a screen look. The car was sometimes raced with half of the opening blocked off and what looks like a screen on the other half:

 

C4R%20Images%2011.jpg

 

Here's the front end in the cars current life:

 

cuninngham%20C4R%201952%201.jpg

 

I really don't have room for some kind of thick screen material. I did find this stuff in both silver and black:

 

C4R%20Build%2086.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2085.jpg

 

This is the description of the stuff:

 

chrome (metal) decals Metal Mesh (black) 2102

Metal chrome decals

 

Instruction on how to apply metal transfer:

1. Cut the metal transfer from sheet using scissor or knife

2. Remove the white color base paper, maintain the protective clear paper

3. Stick the metal transfer on surface required. Press it down, then remove the protective clear paper from surface

 

Here's another possibility, it's not a "decal" but just a phot- etched black metal mesh... hmmmmm... I kind of like it:

 

C4R%20Build%2087.jpg

 

I am thinking it is probably pretty thin but might still give the front grill area some detail or "texture". I believe it is gloss black and I could paint the plastic piece I made flat black... or??

 

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.  :D


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#92 Jairus

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:10 AM

Screen textures can be painted on. I know of a lot of military modelers who paint the tread on their aircraft landing wheels with different shades of black and dark grey.


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#93 James Wendel

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:18 AM

Rick - the photo-etch mesh looks pretty good... not the hex stuff, that's just not right.

 

Or you might consider what I did with this Resilient Resin Ferrari Monza.

 

temp 007.JPG

 

The grill was printed with a standard ink-jet printer, sealed with flat-clear Krylon, stuck onto a piece of styrene with double sided tape, and glued into place after the body was painted. Before painting, I masked off the inside of the body so that I would not be gluing to a painted surface.

 

In your case, you have an excellent photo of the grill mesh with which to start.

 

Good luck with whatever method you choose.  :good:


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#94 idare2bdul

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:48 AM

... Then I can lather on JB Weld epoxy to the entire inside of the nose.

 

There are other alternatives...

 

Micro balloons and either epoxy (or resin depending on the body) 

 

I really like Shoe Goo for reinforcing slot hardbodies.

 

You can also use what hobby shops call covering fiberglass, which is very thin, with CA glue (or resin)... or even women's nylon stocking material with CA.


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#95 beardogracing

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 10:32 AM

You can also use what hobby shops call covering fiberglass, which is very thin, with CA.

 

That's what I use every time!


Chris Wright

 

 


#96 Cheater

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 11:00 AM

I did notice that the acceleration is a bit less with the extra weight which surprised me a bit. I've added that much weight to a hot 16D powered car and not noticed a reduction in acceleration. I guess that's why the builders in the early '60s were so concerned about keeping the weight down on their cars.


As are many Retro racers today, primarily because of the limited, closely-matched motors used in that genre.

A hot 16D would almost certainly have a lot more power than a current legal Retro motor...

Gregory Wells

Never forget that first place goes to the racer with the MOST laps, not the racer with the FASTEST lap


#97 dc-65x

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:12 PM

Thanks very much for all the input and ideas.  :good:
 
I've seen the magic you can work with your paint brush, Jairus, but all mine just shake too much!  :crazy:
 
Sweet-looking Ferrari, James, and a neat trick to duplicate the classic Ferrari "egg crate" grill. You're right on the photo etch hex stuff I showed... I'll nix that. The black photo etched square pattern mesh looks much closer to the above pictured real cars "grill".
 

You can also use what hobby shops call covering fiberglass, which is very thin, with CA glue (or resin)...

 

That's what I use every time!

 
Mike and Chris, that sounds interesting. I don't have a hobby shop any more so I've got to go online to find it. I did a search but I'm lost as to specifics.  :unknw:
 
Could I please have any more info on what you're using like sizes or weights, part numbers, manufactures, etc.?
 
Thanks again!!!  :)


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#98 beardogracing

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:40 PM

This PLACE has the fiberglass cloth.
 
And thin superglue can be found: HERE.
 
Chris


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#99 dc-65x

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 01:07 PM

Thanks, Chris! I just ordered the fiberglass cloth you hooked me up with.

 

Coincidentally, I already have that thin CA you recommend on the way from Hobbylinc along with the Tamiya paint.

 

So... could you please "school" me on the "korrect" technique to affix the cloth to my plastic piece.  :)

 

C4R%20Build%2084.jpg


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#100 beardogracing

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 03:06 PM

Hi Rick,

 

I would position the plastic from behind, held in position with two very small tabs of masking tape.

 

I then decant some super-glue into a water bottle cap. Dip a very small screw-driver tip into the superglue, and spot glue around the edge of you plastic insert (one drop at a time.)

 

Let the glue dry. then remove the masking tape.

 

Cut a piece of the glass cloth to the appropriate size so that it overlaps the plastic insert edges by 1/4" or so.

 

Spray one side of the cloth with spray glue (Elmer's spray glue as in previous post) which I get from Staples.

 

Place cloth in position on back of insert, and lightly press home, the 1/4' overlap should be pressed home on the inside of the body.

 

Put more superglue into the water bottle cap, (about 1/4").

 

Get a bunch of Q-tips, dip in superglue, move to glass cloth and touch. The glue will wick into the glass cloth very quickly (it'll also go off on the Q-tip with a puff of fumes, so move quickly).

 

Repeat until cloth is soaked all over, leave for about 5 mins, (it'll dry very quickly) sand bumps out, and repeat until desired strength and thickness is reached. (just like laminating a real car)

 

Any other areas on the body that need strengthening will benefit from this treatment too. Like the area from the back of the cockpit to the rear wheel arches, that's a notoriously week area, especially on resin cars. 

 

This is the cleanest way I have found to do it, and this stuff is strong (the R/C airplane people do this to strengthen joins like butting wings together.)

 

You'll use quite a few Q-tips, and the glue will get hot when it goes off on them.

 

Obviously do a few tests before you start on the real thing. This also works great on plastic kits used for slot racing, too.

 

Chris


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