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My first resin kit bodied slot car... HOLY SMOKES!


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#51 Jairus

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 11:47 AM

Looking great, Rick!  Very much more realistic than simply sticking in a Champion or Cox driver figure. 

 

Bravo for taking the time. :clapping:


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#52 dc-65x

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 12:14 PM

I really like the way this style of driver figure looks in the car too. Thanks for the encouragement! :)

 

 

... Have you looked at the 1/24 Top Slot resin bodies?

 

I haven't, John, but I'd like to. I didn't have much luck finding them online. Can you help me with a link to their 1/24 bodies?
 


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#53 beardogracing

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 12:26 PM

Rick,

 

I know the immense Miniatures drivers can be fiddly little suckers, but Mr. Fangio looks fantastic!


Chris Wright

 

 


#54 munter

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Posted 29 May 2015 - 03:52 PM

Hi again, Rick,

 

Electric Dreams has four currently listed but I see them sometimes on eBay... good quality castings, too. I have a few in 1/32 scale and like them a lot.

 

Regards,

 

John


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#55 dc-65x

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 12:27 PM

... I have two of these motors both new in the package. Unfortunately, both look like grunt with moisture or humidity damage. Some Pittman's come out of the box and look like the day they were made and some look like this:
 
C4R%20Build%2013.jpg
 
I'll need to use the motor to build the chassis so I'll try and make her "purdy" after the chassis is done:
 
C4R%20Build%2012.jpg


Here's the motor freshened up:

 

C4R%20Build%2034.jpg

 

Only the magnet and brushes were removed as the motor parts are nicely aligned and factory-staked in place:

 

C4R%20Build%2033.jpg

 

I decided to save the aggravation of having the factory brush spring and plungers flying across the room during reassembly. Since "torsion springs" have been around for a zillion years, I shortened and re-bent one to work. It's very easy to assemble and I can adjust spring tension by bending:

 

C4R%20Build%2032.jpg

 

Chassis pics next...


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#56 don.siegel

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 12:57 PM

Hey Rick, 

 

As Hemingway once said, real men affront the running of the bulls and the flying of the brush springs... 

 

How did you clean off the motor without getting little bits of steel brush all over? Or was it chemical? My XL-500s are all like that or worse, often frozen up completely... 

 

Don 


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#57 dc-65x

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 01:25 PM

Hi Don,

 

About those pesky brush springs and plungers... as Clint Eastwood once said, "A man's got to know his limitations."  :crazy: :dance3:

 

To "purdy up" the motor I first tried Tarn-X and a toothbrush on the brass. Some of it got on the steel and before I realized what was happening the steel turned black! :shok: :dash2:

 

I ended up using two different styles of Dremel brand carbon steel wire wheels to fix the problem. I used new wire wheels as I've found as they got older they start to really shed wires.. not so much when newer. Plus, with the magnet out of the motor, high pressure air will get rid of them pretty easily.

 

The final buff was with cotton swabs with paste metal polish.

 

Don, I'm going to send you a PM...


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#58 dc-65x

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 04:48 PM

I lived in Southern California during the early '60s and we scratchbuilt pin tube space frames. So, that's what I had in mind for this project. I started with a hunk of 1/8" brass and a very rough sketch for the rear bearing blocks...

 

C4R%20Build%2024.jpg

 

.............and made up these puppies:

 

C4R%20Build%2025.jpg

 

For the front bracket/drop arm mount I started with some 1/16" brass..........

 

C4R%20Build%2022.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2023.jpg

 

...........added some Kemtron gizmos and a 3/32" threaded axle I got from somewhere for a drop arm pivot...........

 

C4R%20Build%2029.jpg

 

.............and ended up with this:

 

C4R%20Build%2030.jpg

 

Here are the pieces, parts before they go into my Rick's Jig. Also shown are the motor mounts made from 1/32" brass sheet with mounting screw spacer sleeves machined from 1/4" round stock and 1/16" tube rear axle U-braces:

 

C4R%20Build%2035.jpg

 

The Rick's Jig with all the alignment pins, tubes, jig wheels and motor armature shaft alignment gizmo ready for the pieces, parts:

 

C4R%20Build%2026.jpg

 

Time to plug in the soldering iron:

 

C4R%20Build%2028.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2027.jpg


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#59 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 05:35 PM

I want the set of tools you're using, Rick! That is looking superb.  :D

Especially love the bearing blocks, very cool.



#60 dc-65x

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Posted 04 June 2015 - 08:17 PM

Thanks, Paul. My Rick's Jig is a favorite tool. I enjoy setting things up with different pins, square tubes, round tubes, whatever works.

 

Here's the soldered up "motor-rear axle" part of the chassis:

 

C4R%20Build%2042.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2041.jpg

 

Next, full size front and rear jig wheels were installed. The front frame rails bent to lower the front of the motor down to the jig surface and the front axle tube soldered in place:

 

C4R%20Build%2043.jpg

 

Now I've got to figure out some body mounts...


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#61 dc-65x

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 05:48 PM

Here are the simple L-shape front body mounts:

 

C4R%20Build%2044.jpg

 

Long pins in my Rick's Jig position and align them. I put them outside the mail rails so I'd have plenty of room for a drop arm. I'm going to have problems in that area...

 

C4R%20Build%2046.jpg

 

The rear body mount in place:

 

C4R%20Build%2045.jpg

 

The chassis ready for a drop arm. I may add some further bracing, too:

 

C4R%20Build%2047.jpg

 

Guide problems. The C4R has not only a very short nose, it is very deep extending almost to the track surface. Here is the guide I was going to use. It's an early Cox pushed up all the way against the front axle:

 

C4R%20Build%2040.jpg

 

Here's how much the body interferes with it... yikes!:

 

C4R%20Build%2031.jpg

 

Next I tried a smaller Revell guide:

 

C4R%20Build%2038.jpg

 

Better, but still not good enough:

 

C4R%20Build%2039.jpg

 

This build precedes the Cox Cucaracha trailing guide so that option is out. A guide pin is a solution but in my mind, I'm building a Southern California build so it need a guide flag, IMHO.

 

Thinking cap is on...


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#62 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 06:16 PM

Great progress, Rick.  :good:

Would simply putting the regular guide pivot right behind the front axle work?



#63 dc-65x

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 08:08 PM

Hi Paul,

 

Yes You're right about putting the guide pivot behind the front axle. It just somehow feels, well, wrong. :o :laugh2:

 

The more I think about it, the more I think it might be the way to go however. I'm going to get the body mounted so I know exactly how the body interfaces with the chassis and then do what I have to do to get a guide installed... under or behind the front axle if necessary. :dance3:


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#64 n9949y

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 08:16 PM

I use Fisher bodies which even after milling out remain strong and suitable for racing.

 

Ferrari 312P  Spyder and Berlinetta

 

69%20ferrari%20312s_zpsba7hrrjz.jpg


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#65 dc-65x

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 09:12 PM

That's good to know about Fisher products. Very beautiful cars, Todd. Thanks for sharing them. :)


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#66 don.siegel

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 03:31 AM

Rick,

 

There's another trailing guide from this period, perhaps Gar-Vic if memory serves... It may be in Steve's guide page, or I'll try to find it later at home... 

 

Don 



#67 dc-65x

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 08:53 PM

Thanks, Don. I see a 1965 Strombecker guide that might be what you're thinking of. Thanks for the help. :)

 

Before I choose a guide... I've decided to mount the body so I'm sure what real estate I have to work with. Here are the goodies I'm using.

 

Evergreen 1/4" round and square styrene structural plastic

Revell 4-40 brass pan head body mounting screws

1/16" 4-40 set screws to act as "limiters" for how far down the body mount screws can go... allowing for a "rattle fit" body.

"Mystery" 4-40 vintage body mount inserts

 

C4R%20Build%2052.jpg

 

Here are the front body mount posts...

 

C4R%20Build%2049.jpg

 

... and the rear body mount:

 

C4R%20Build%2053.jpg

 

Here's the chassis in my Rick's Jig all lined up and ready for the body:

 

C4R%20Build%2051.jpg

 

A dab of JB Weld on each mount and the body is set down between the jigs alignment pins. Now it's time to wait...

 

C4R%20Build%2048.jpg


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#68 don.siegel

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 03:41 AM

Ooops, forgot to check out the guide last night, Rick - will try to remember this evening! It's not the Strombecker...

 

Don 



#69 don.siegel

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 01:22 PM

Here's the Gar-Vic trailing guide Rick - have an extra one if you want it for your project. 
 
GarVic%20trailing%20guide%202_zpsmvghcgi
 
GarVic%20trailing%20guide%201_zpsrr9xamu



#70 dc-65x

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 05:51 PM

Thanks for digging up that guide for me, Don. That's one unusual beast for sure. Is it in Steve's list?

 

I've finally got the body mounted. That's a major milestone for me as I'm more of a vac body and pin tube kinda guy. :crazy:

 

I machine up some aluminum reinforcement collars and JB welded them in place up front:

 

C4R%20Build%2059.jpg

 

Out back I backed up the 1/4" square body mount with some smaller pieces of Plastruct and an ounce or two of JB Weld:

 

C4R%20Build%2058.jpg

 

Now with the body height set, I decided to take a chance on cutting the body to help with guide clearance. I cut a lot off: :shok:

 

C4R%20Build%2057.jpg

 

As I hoped, the nose is so low you really don't see the cut when the car is sitting on the track or tech block:

 

C4R%20Build%2054.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2056.jpg

 

And the Revell guide I wanted to use all along just might fit:

 

C4R%20Build%2055.jpg

 

Drop arm time...


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#71 SlotStox#53

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 06:52 PM

That is looking just perfect sitting on the tech block... what a stance.  :D

One sweet curvy resin body, much inspiration to build one.  :good:

Even better about the guide/body clearance!



#72 beardogracing

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 07:07 PM

Hi Rick,
 
Looking  great. You may want to reinforce that thin fragile chin with lightweight glass cloth and superglue.
 
Use this to attach a couple of thin strips of cloth to the inside of the chin.

 e451-jpg.tmb-thumb230.jpg?Status=Master&

Then soak the glass cloth in thin viscous super glue. You could insert a length of fine piano wire in there, too.

Chris Wright

 

 


#73 dc-65x

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 08:13 PM

Thanks, Paul. :)
 
Good observation, Chris. Sometimes I don't "see the forest for the trees"! :wacko2:
 
I'll beef it up.

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#74 Jairus

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 10:08 PM

Yeah, Rick has taken it on the chin before. Good call, Chris.

Love the stance and lines on that body!

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#75 beardogracing

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 07:33 PM

Rick - important...
 
When applying the decals use Micro Set: 

MI-1.jpg

 
The Patto's decals that were recommended may work, do a test first. 
 
Allow at least 24 hours before you use any clear coat. This goes with any make of decal. But test first on a scrap of plastic, with the paint you are going to use first. Do the test as if it was on the car, two light mist coats, three wet coats, and at least 30 mins between each coat.
 
Do a final polish with Tamiya fine polishing compound.
 
You could play on the safe side and paint the white and blue stripes, clear coat that, then apply decals, the decals can then be replaced if they get scratched.


Chris Wright

 

 


#76 dc-65x

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 09:05 PM

Thanks for the tips, Chris; they are much appreciated.  :good:


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#77 dc-65x

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 06:37 PM

Here's the finished drop arm made with a Dynamic pillow block, assorted tubing and a 3-56 threaded pivot rod:

 

C4R%20Build%2076.jpg

 

The chassis is finished... at least until its first track test:

 

C4R%20Build%2074.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2075.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2071.jpg

 

I can't wait to get all the parts installed so I can see this baby "move"...


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#78 slotbaker

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 06:48 PM

:heart: Wow...


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#79 Jairus

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 07:43 PM

Yeah, Steve, "Wow"! :heat:


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#80 dc-65x

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 08:27 PM

Thanks! :)

 

I really enjoy trying to dream up pin tube space frames for the old open frame and laminated pole piece motors.

 

Speaking of dreaming things up, here's what I came up with for an independent front axle using collet lock wheels:

 

C4R%20Build%2068.jpg

 

A spacer soldered on the end of the axle, as per usual. The collet lock wheel nut is snugged down until the wheel spins freely and the nut held in place with a drop of green "wicking grade" Loctite:

 

C4R%20Build%2069.jpg

 

I jump at any chance to use Weldon 64P spur gears on sidewinders or bevel gear sets on inlines and this car was no exception:

 

C4R%20Build%2065.jpg

 

The Pittman's data sheet recommended a 3.5:1 gear ratio so that's what I went with.

 

On a side note, I find the 3.5 ratio gear sets the hardest to find today... and perhaps the most often mentioned in the old race reports.

 

She's almost on the track...  :dance3:


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#81 dc-65x

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 03:36 PM

I got a Revell guide to fit just barely in front of the axle tube. The guide collar is actually slightly under the axle:
 
C4R%20Build%2064.jpg
 
The drop arm downward motion is restrained by the outside drop arm tubes contacting the front bulkhead:
 
C4R%20Build%2067.jpg
 
Here she is ready to roll:
 
C4R%20Build%2078.jpg
 
C4R%20Build%2060.jpg
 
C4R%20Build%2061.jpg
 
I like the way the motor mounts worked out. I stressed over how to do this neatly and this method turned out to be so simple:
 
C4R%20Build%2063.jpg
 
Time for the track test...


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#82 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:36 PM

Superb.  :good: :D

Almost looks like the chassis belongs under a Maserati Birdcage. Those motor mounts are so simple and a great idea!



#83 slotbaker

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:36 PM

Hope she goes as good as she looks.

:good:


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#84 dc-65x

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 06:18 PM

Man, this baby's got some grunt! :shok:  I didn't expect this kind of power from a DC77 even if it is a 6 volt. It has DC65-6 speed. I tried it with the body off and it was really snappy. So much so the nose got light and it popped out of the slot half way down the main straight... not good.

 

Putting the body on settled it down a bit but the nose was still getting light down the straight. It was scary to drive. I expected to see a wall shot at any moment.

 

C4R%20Build%2079.jpg

 

I tried locking up the drop arm to put the full weight of the car on the guide and that helped but it was still too snappy and wanted to get airborne.

 

Time to add some weight as I don't want another mishap like this with a lightweight front end getting airborne:

 

PittmanDC-65HSC-076.jpg

 

PittmanDC-65HSC-081.jpg

 

I added a couple of hunks of Luck Bob's thick lead to the top of the drop arm. The small hunk stops the drop arm from moving:

 

C4R%20Build%2080.jpg

 

Three pieces of thin Slick 7 lead on the bottom cover up the sticky tape on the bottom of the Lucky Bob's lead:

 

C4R%20Build%2081.jpg

 

That did the trick. It's now very stable and finally, easy to drive at the limit.

 

I did notice that the acceleration is a bit less with the extra weight which surprised me a bit. I've added that much weight to a hot 16D powered car and not noticed a reduction in acceleration. I guess that's why the builders in the early '60s were so concerned about keeping the weight down on their cars.

 

Arrrggh... time to work on the body...   :o


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#85 HarV Wallbanger III

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 07:42 PM

Beautiful chassis porn, Rick!


Barney Poynor
"BRONCO" BARNEY
Team CORT!

Hello my name is Barney and I was... I am addicted to glue, magnets, and wings... I have been clean and sober years now... NOW I'm hooked on 1/32 club track racing! Dang!
 

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If you remember
screw-on braid, motors that look like padlocks, that dang fuse wire in Cox controllers, "hand" painted bodies, the very first can motors from Mabuchi, and the smell of wintergreen then you are OLD!... like me!

Enjoy life! Race Slot Cars and read SlotBlog!


#86 Jairus

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 09:01 PM

Enough fooling around. Time to PAINT! :diablo:


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#87 dc-65x

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 09:13 PM

I know, I know... the car is "worthy" of my struggles, too. I had more track time with it and it's really fun.

 

I can't help but think if more people were exposed to driving cars like this, with a proper controller (not a Parma Turbo or the like), they would have an absolute blast.


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#88 MSwiss

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 09:23 PM

Proper vintage or proper modern?

Mike Swiss
 
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#89 James Wendel

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 10:48 PM

Wow, Rick... another beautiful build. Your attention to detail is astounding. Even the the lead additions are impeccable. 

 

I have heard some people say that painting resin bodies can be problematic. They have recommended using a lacquer-based primer. Personally, I have had good results with Tamiya "Fine Surface Primer".


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#90 dc-65x

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 12:16 AM

Proper vintage or proper modern?

 
Hi Mike,
 
"Proper" meaning any controller that works with 50-year old motors and isn't just an on/off switch. I use a Ruddock electronic controller. It will work with anything from a Pittman "boat motor" to a modern Eurosport. A vintage Cox variable ohm 7-1/2 to 15 would be fine, too.
 

... Personally, I have had good results with Tamiya "Fine Surface Primer".

 

Thanks, James. The Tamiya primer and paint is exactly what I've got ordered for this build... thanks again!


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#91 dc-65x

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 04:00 PM

Help please... hardbody modelers, I'm not sure what to do about this...   :unknw:

 

I need to beef up the very weak front end and still have room for the guide. I came up with a sheet of .020" thick plastic:

 

C4R%20Build%2084.jpg

 

It will be glued to the inside of the body after it's painted, like so...

 

C4R%20Build%2083.jpg

 

... then I can lather on JB Weld epoxy to the entire inside of the nose.

 

C4R%20Build%2082.jpg

 

Now I could just paint the thing flat black and be done with it but I've been thinking about trying to give it some texture or a screen look. The car was sometimes raced with half of the opening blocked off and what looks like a screen on the other half:

 

C4R%20Images%2011.jpg

 

Here's the front end in the cars current life:

 

cuninngham%20C4R%201952%201.jpg

 

I really don't have room for some kind of thick screen material. I did find this stuff in both silver and black:

 

C4R%20Build%2086.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2085.jpg

 

This is the description of the stuff:

 

chrome (metal) decals Metal Mesh (black) 2102

Metal chrome decals

 

Instruction on how to apply metal transfer:

1. Cut the metal transfer from sheet using scissor or knife

2. Remove the white color base paper, maintain the protective clear paper

3. Stick the metal transfer on surface required. Press it down, then remove the protective clear paper from surface

 

Here's another possibility, it's not a "decal" but just a phot- etched black metal mesh... hmmmmm... I kind of like it:

 

C4R%20Build%2087.jpg

 

I am thinking it is probably pretty thin but might still give the front grill area some detail or "texture". I believe it is gloss black and I could paint the plastic piece I made flat black... or??

 

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.  :D


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#92 Jairus

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:10 AM

Screen textures can be painted on. I know of a lot of military modelers who paint the tread on their aircraft landing wheels with different shades of black and dark grey.


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#93 James Wendel

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:18 AM

Rick - the photo-etch mesh looks pretty good... not the hex stuff, that's just not right.

 

Or you might consider what I did with this Resilient Resin Ferrari Monza.

 

temp 007.JPG

 

The grill was printed with a standard ink-jet printer, sealed with flat-clear Krylon, stuck onto a piece of styrene with double sided tape, and glued into place after the body was painted. Before painting, I masked off the inside of the body so that I would not be gluing to a painted surface.

 

In your case, you have an excellent photo of the grill mesh with which to start.

 

Good luck with whatever method you choose.  :good:


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#94 idare2bdul

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:48 AM

... Then I can lather on JB Weld epoxy to the entire inside of the nose.

 

There are other alternatives...

 

Micro balloons and either epoxy (or resin depending on the body) 

 

I really like Shoe Goo for reinforcing slot hardbodies.

 

You can also use what hobby shops call covering fiberglass, which is very thin, with CA glue (or resin)... or even women's nylon stocking material with CA.


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#95 beardogracing

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 10:32 AM

You can also use what hobby shops call covering fiberglass, which is very thin, with CA.

 

That's what I use every time!


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#96 Cheater

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 11:00 AM

I did notice that the acceleration is a bit less with the extra weight which surprised me a bit. I've added that much weight to a hot 16D powered car and not noticed a reduction in acceleration. I guess that's why the builders in the early '60s were so concerned about keeping the weight down on their cars.


As are many Retro racers today, primarily because of the limited, closely-matched motors used in that genre.

A hot 16D would almost certainly have a lot more power than a current legal Retro motor...

Gregory Wells

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#97 dc-65x

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:12 PM

Thanks very much for all the input and ideas.  :good:
 
I've seen the magic you can work with your paint brush, Jairus, but all mine just shake too much!  :crazy:
 
Sweet-looking Ferrari, James, and a neat trick to duplicate the classic Ferrari "egg crate" grill. You're right on the photo etch hex stuff I showed... I'll nix that. The black photo etched square pattern mesh looks much closer to the above pictured real cars "grill".
 

You can also use what hobby shops call covering fiberglass, which is very thin, with CA glue (or resin)...

 

That's what I use every time!

 
Mike and Chris, that sounds interesting. I don't have a hobby shop any more so I've got to go online to find it. I did a search but I'm lost as to specifics.  :unknw:
 
Could I please have any more info on what you're using like sizes or weights, part numbers, manufactures, etc.?
 
Thanks again!!!  :)


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#98 beardogracing

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 12:40 PM

This PLACE has the fiberglass cloth.
 
And thin superglue can be found: HERE.
 
Chris


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#99 dc-65x

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 01:07 PM

Thanks, Chris! I just ordered the fiberglass cloth you hooked me up with.

 

Coincidentally, I already have that thin CA you recommend on the way from Hobbylinc along with the Tamiya paint.

 

So... could you please "school" me on the "korrect" technique to affix the cloth to my plastic piece.  :)

 

C4R%20Build%2084.jpg


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#100 beardogracing

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 03:06 PM

Hi Rick,

 

I would position the plastic from behind, held in position with two very small tabs of masking tape.

 

I then decant some super-glue into a water bottle cap. Dip a very small screw-driver tip into the superglue, and spot glue around the edge of you plastic insert (one drop at a time.)

 

Let the glue dry. then remove the masking tape.

 

Cut a piece of the glass cloth to the appropriate size so that it overlaps the plastic insert edges by 1/4" or so.

 

Spray one side of the cloth with spray glue (Elmer's spray glue as in previous post) which I get from Staples.

 

Place cloth in position on back of insert, and lightly press home, the 1/4' overlap should be pressed home on the inside of the body.

 

Put more superglue into the water bottle cap, (about 1/4").

 

Get a bunch of Q-tips, dip in superglue, move to glass cloth and touch. The glue will wick into the glass cloth very quickly (it'll also go off on the Q-tip with a puff of fumes, so move quickly).

 

Repeat until cloth is soaked all over, leave for about 5 mins, (it'll dry very quickly) sand bumps out, and repeat until desired strength and thickness is reached. (just like laminating a real car)

 

Any other areas on the body that need strengthening will benefit from this treatment too. Like the area from the back of the cockpit to the rear wheel arches, that's a notoriously week area, especially on resin cars. 

 

This is the cleanest way I have found to do it, and this stuff is strong (the R/C airplane people do this to strengthen joins like butting wings together.)

 

You'll use quite a few Q-tips, and the glue will get hot when it goes off on them.

 

Obviously do a few tests before you start on the real thing. This also works great on plastic kits used for slot racing, too.

 

Chris


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