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My first resin kit bodied slot car... HOLY SMOKES!


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#51 Jairus

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 11:47 AM

Looking great, Rick!  Very much more realistic than simply sticking in a Champion or Cox driver figure. 

 

Bravo for taking the time. :clapping:


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#52 dc-65x

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 12:14 PM

I really like the way this style of driver figure looks in the car too. Thanks for the encouragement! :)

 

 

... Have you looked at the 1/24 Top Slot resin bodies?

 

I haven't, John, but I'd like to. I didn't have much luck finding them online. Can you help me with a link to their 1/24 bodies?
 


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#53 beardogracing

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Posted 28 May 2015 - 12:26 PM

Rick,

 

I know the immense Miniatures drivers can be fiddly little suckers, but Mr. Fangio looks fantastic!


Chris Wright

 

 


#54 munter

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Posted 29 May 2015 - 03:52 PM

Hi again, Rick,

 

Electric Dreams has four currently listed but I see them sometimes on eBay... good quality castings, too. I have a few in 1/32 scale and like them a lot.

 

Regards,

 

John


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#55 dc-65x

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 12:27 PM

... I have two of these motors both new in the package. Unfortunately, both look like grunt with moisture or humidity damage. Some Pittman's come out of the box and look like the day they were made and some look like this:
 
C4R%20Build%2013.jpg
 
I'll need to use the motor to build the chassis so I'll try and make her "purdy" after the chassis is done:
 
C4R%20Build%2012.jpg


Here's the motor freshened up:

 

C4R%20Build%2034.jpg

 

Only the magnet and brushes were removed as the motor parts are nicely aligned and factory-staked in place:

 

C4R%20Build%2033.jpg

 

I decided to save the aggravation of having the factory brush spring and plungers flying across the room during reassembly. Since "torsion springs" have been around for a zillion years, I shortened and re-bent one to work. It's very easy to assemble and I can adjust spring tension by bending:

 

C4R%20Build%2032.jpg

 

Chassis pics next...


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#56 don.siegel

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 12:57 PM

Hey Rick, 

 

As Hemingway once said, real men affront the running of the bulls and the flying of the brush springs... 

 

How did you clean off the motor without getting little bits of steel brush all over? Or was it chemical? My XL-500s are all like that or worse, often frozen up completely... 

 

Don 


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#57 dc-65x

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 01:25 PM

Hi Don,

 

About those pesky brush springs and plungers... as Clint Eastwood once said, "A man's got to know his limitations."  :crazy: :dance3:

 

To "purdy up" the motor I first tried Tarn-X and a toothbrush on the brass. Some of it got on the steel and before I realized what was happening the steel turned black! :shok: :dash2:

 

I ended up using two different styles of Dremel brand carbon steel wire wheels to fix the problem. I used new wire wheels as I've found as they got older they start to really shed wires.. not so much when newer. Plus, with the magnet out of the motor, high pressure air will get rid of them pretty easily.

 

The final buff was with cotton swabs with paste metal polish.

 

Don, I'm going to send you a PM...


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#58 dc-65x

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 04:48 PM

I lived in Southern California during the early '60s and we scratchbuilt pin tube space frames. So, that's what I had in mind for this project. I started with a hunk of 1/8" brass and a very rough sketch for the rear bearing blocks...

 

C4R%20Build%2024.jpg

 

.............and made up these puppies:

 

C4R%20Build%2025.jpg

 

For the front bracket/drop arm mount I started with some 1/16" brass..........

 

C4R%20Build%2022.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2023.jpg

 

...........added some Kemtron gizmos and a 3/32" threaded axle I got from somewhere for a drop arm pivot...........

 

C4R%20Build%2029.jpg

 

.............and ended up with this:

 

C4R%20Build%2030.jpg

 

Here are the pieces, parts before they go into my Rick's Jig. Also shown are the motor mounts made from 1/32" brass sheet with mounting screw spacer sleeves machined from 1/4" round stock and 1/16" tube rear axle U-braces:

 

C4R%20Build%2035.jpg

 

The Rick's Jig with all the alignment pins, tubes, jig wheels and motor armature shaft alignment gizmo ready for the pieces, parts:

 

C4R%20Build%2026.jpg

 

Time to plug in the soldering iron:

 

C4R%20Build%2028.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2027.jpg


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#59 SlotStox#53

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 05:35 PM

I want the set of tools you're using, Rick! That is looking superb.  :D

Especially love the bearing blocks, very cool.



#60 dc-65x

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Posted 04 June 2015 - 08:17 PM

Thanks, Paul. My Rick's Jig is a favorite tool. I enjoy setting things up with different pins, square tubes, round tubes, whatever works.

 

Here's the soldered up "motor-rear axle" part of the chassis:

 

C4R%20Build%2042.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2041.jpg

 

Next, full size front and rear jig wheels were installed. The front frame rails bent to lower the front of the motor down to the jig surface and the front axle tube soldered in place:

 

C4R%20Build%2043.jpg

 

Now I've got to figure out some body mounts...


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#61 dc-65x

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 05:48 PM

Here are the simple L-shape front body mounts:

 

C4R%20Build%2044.jpg

 

Long pins in my Rick's Jig position and align them. I put them outside the mail rails so I'd have plenty of room for a drop arm. I'm going to have problems in that area...

 

C4R%20Build%2046.jpg

 

The rear body mount in place:

 

C4R%20Build%2045.jpg

 

The chassis ready for a drop arm. I may add some further bracing, too:

 

C4R%20Build%2047.jpg

 

Guide problems. The C4R has not only a very short nose, it is very deep extending almost to the track surface. Here is the guide I was going to use. It's an early Cox pushed up all the way against the front axle:

 

C4R%20Build%2040.jpg

 

Here's how much the body interferes with it... yikes!:

 

C4R%20Build%2031.jpg

 

Next I tried a smaller Revell guide:

 

C4R%20Build%2038.jpg

 

Better, but still not good enough:

 

C4R%20Build%2039.jpg

 

This build precedes the Cox Cucaracha trailing guide so that option is out. A guide pin is a solution but in my mind, I'm building a Southern California build so it need a guide flag, IMHO.

 

Thinking cap is on...


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#62 SlotStox#53

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 06:16 PM

Great progress, Rick.  :good:

Would simply putting the regular guide pivot right behind the front axle work?



#63 dc-65x

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 08:08 PM

Hi Paul,

 

Yes You're right about putting the guide pivot behind the front axle. It just somehow feels, well, wrong. :o :laugh2:

 

The more I think about it, the more I think it might be the way to go however. I'm going to get the body mounted so I know exactly how the body interfaces with the chassis and then do what I have to do to get a guide installed... under or behind the front axle if necessary. :dance3:


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#64 n9949y

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 08:16 PM

I use Fisher bodies which even after milling out remain strong and suitable for racing.

 

Ferrari 312P  Spyder and Berlinetta

 

69%20ferrari%20312s_zpsba7hrrjz.jpg


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#65 dc-65x

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Posted 09 June 2015 - 09:12 PM

That's good to know about Fisher products. Very beautiful cars, Todd. Thanks for sharing them. :)


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#66 don.siegel

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 03:31 AM

Rick,

 

There's another trailing guide from this period, perhaps Gar-Vic if memory serves... It may be in Steve's guide page, or I'll try to find it later at home... 

 

Don 



#67 dc-65x

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Posted 10 June 2015 - 08:53 PM

Thanks, Don. I see a 1965 Strombecker guide that might be what you're thinking of. Thanks for the help. :)

 

Before I choose a guide... I've decided to mount the body so I'm sure what real estate I have to work with. Here are the goodies I'm using.

 

Evergreen 1/4" round and square styrene structural plastic

Revell 4-40 brass pan head body mounting screws

1/16" 4-40 set screws to act as "limiters" for how far down the body mount screws can go... allowing for a "rattle fit" body.

"Mystery" 4-40 vintage body mount inserts

 

C4R%20Build%2052.jpg

 

Here are the front body mount posts...

 

C4R%20Build%2049.jpg

 

... and the rear body mount:

 

C4R%20Build%2053.jpg

 

Here's the chassis in my Rick's Jig all lined up and ready for the body:

 

C4R%20Build%2051.jpg

 

A dab of JB Weld on each mount and the body is set down between the jigs alignment pins. Now it's time to wait...

 

C4R%20Build%2048.jpg


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#68 don.siegel

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 03:41 AM

Ooops, forgot to check out the guide last night, Rick - will try to remember this evening! It's not the Strombecker...

 

Don 



#69 don.siegel

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Posted 11 June 2015 - 01:22 PM

Here's the Gar-Vic trailing guide Rick - have an extra one if you want it for your project. 
 
GarVic%20trailing%20guide%202_zpsmvghcgi
 
GarVic%20trailing%20guide%201_zpsrr9xamu



#70 dc-65x

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 05:51 PM

Thanks for digging up that guide for me, Don. That's one unusual beast for sure. Is it in Steve's list?

 

I've finally got the body mounted. That's a major milestone for me as I'm more of a vac body and pin tube kinda guy. :crazy:

 

I machine up some aluminum reinforcement collars and JB welded them in place up front:

 

C4R%20Build%2059.jpg

 

Out back I backed up the 1/4" square body mount with some smaller pieces of Plastruct and an ounce or two of JB Weld:

 

C4R%20Build%2058.jpg

 

Now with the body height set, I decided to take a chance on cutting the body to help with guide clearance. I cut a lot off: :shok:

 

C4R%20Build%2057.jpg

 

As I hoped, the nose is so low you really don't see the cut when the car is sitting on the track or tech block:

 

C4R%20Build%2054.jpg

 

C4R%20Build%2056.jpg

 

And the Revell guide I wanted to use all along just might fit:

 

C4R%20Build%2055.jpg

 

Drop arm time...


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#71 SlotStox#53

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 06:52 PM

That is looking just perfect sitting on the tech block... what a stance.  :D

One sweet curvy resin body, much inspiration to build one.  :good:

Even better about the guide/body clearance!



#72 beardogracing

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 07:07 PM

Hi Rick,
 
Looking  great. You may want to reinforce that thin fragile chin with lightweight glass cloth and superglue.
 
Use this to attach a couple of thin strips of cloth to the inside of the chin.

 e451-jpg.tmb-thumb230.jpg?Status=Master&

Then soak the glass cloth in thin viscous super glue. You could insert a length of fine piano wire in there, too.

Chris Wright

 

 


#73 dc-65x

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 08:13 PM

Thanks, Paul. :)
 
Good observation, Chris. Sometimes I don't "see the forest for the trees"! :wacko2:
 
I'll beef it up.

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#74 Jairus

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Posted 12 June 2015 - 10:08 PM

Yeah, Rick has taken it on the chin before. Good call, Chris.

Love the stance and lines on that body!

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#75 beardogracing

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 07:33 PM

Rick - important...
 
When applying the decals use Micro Set: 

MI-1.jpg

 
The Patto's decals that were recommended may work, do a test first. 
 
Allow at least 24 hours before you use any clear coat. This goes with any make of decal. But test first on a scrap of plastic, with the paint you are going to use first. Do the test as if it was on the car, two light mist coats, three wet coats, and at least 30 mins between each coat.
 
Do a final polish with Tamiya fine polishing compound.
 
You could play on the safe side and paint the white and blue stripes, clear coat that, then apply decals, the decals can then be replaced if they get scratched.


Chris Wright

 

 






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