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"Mine" Cox La Cucaracha


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 03:26 PM

While refurbishing John Clow's Cuc, I remembered just how sweet these cars are.

The Cox Iso Fulcrum design was an idea way ahead of it's time.  45 years later, it still works well.

Wish I still had mine from back in the day.  :)

I caught the sickness and couldn't resist snagging one on eBay.

IMG_5022.JPG

 

Thanks to Philippe, Bob I., Edo, Tom H. Don H, (and others I'll remember later), I knew what to look for.

IMG_5046.JPG

 

Mine Cuc appears to be new, and quite possibly never run. 

The black nylon spacer on the rear axle is too short, but it matters not.

This car is going to be perfected, modified, and run hard.

IMG_5041.JPG

 

I welcome your La Cucaracha speed secrets in "mine Cuc" thread. 

No guarantee I'll take your advice, but I do welcome and appreciate it. :clapping:

Now, where did I put that doggone acorn nut wrench ? :dash2: :crazy:


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#2 garyvmachines

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 03:45 PM

SWEEEEET CUC Pablo !!!!!!! :victory:

ME Likey .......nice find that look's new....... how much $$$$$$$ ???

 

GAV


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#3 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 03:45 PM

You sure found a very nice example. :good:


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#4 MSwiss

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 03:50 PM

 

I welcome your La Cucaracha speed secrets in "mine Cuc" thread. 

 

Three simple words, my friend;

"Koford guide washers" :laugh2:

 

I wound up with a nice one, somehow.

 

Ray probably bought it for me because I mentioned it was my first 1/24 slot car and had won my first race with it.

 

It has silicones and runs great on my flat track.

 

Almost too good to have fun.

 

As far as acorn nut wrenches, I got one with mine, and regardless, at 12 or 13 years old, I couldn't figure out how to take the front wheels off, without  damaging something.


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#5 SlotStox#53

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 03:51 PM

Beautiful looking example Pablo :good: really is complete and unmolested! !

After finding dad's slot car box back when I was a kid, he always mentioned the Cuc with fond memories.

Always been tempted and having seen your renovation of John's it's gotten even more tempting :laugh2:

If I bite the bullet will use everyone's info and great advice here on the blog.

Crack on ..



#6 Pablo

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 04:50 PM

Thanks everybody :) 

I'm not ready to dig into this car just yet. Meantime, keep those speed tips coming.....

.020 PETG TrueScale La Cucaracha body is currently en-route, and #14 rubber band will arrive soon........


Paul Wolcott

#7 Jairus

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 04:50 PM

Very nice Paul! :good: :good: :good:
We should all collect the brand we like, price be-damned! (Don't tell us.)
For me it's Dynamic.

 

But Cox is my second followed by Riggen.


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 04:55 PM

Jairus, I didn't get a "bargain" price at all. :)

Gary specifically asked, so I sent him a PM.


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#9 Jairus

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 05:01 PM

To mention the price would be boasting.  We all have a pretty good idea what that car is worth.

And in my world, paying the fee for something desirable is well worth it, whatever it is.


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#10 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 05:03 PM

Exactly Jarius, how about a poll vote from a list of 60s RTR manufacturers ?

 

1.2.3.

Champion

Dynamic

Classic

 

And 'price be-damned' the Champion might lead that category.

 

Pablo,

Personally ..... I would leave that mint original car just the way it is and build up a bare frame with modern parts and orange lid as a 'real runner'.


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 05:11 PM

I appreciate the idea, Bob, but this car doesn't qualify as "mint".


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#12 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 05:16 PM

 

 

As far as acorn nut wrenches, I got one with mine, and regardless, at 12 or 13 years old, I couldn't figure out how to take the front wheels off, without  damaging something.

 

 "Wow ..You too?"  :o  said the frustrated 9 year old.    :on_the_quiet2: Now I don't feel so bad if a 'big kid' can't even do it. :whistle3: Hmmm..that was a short bike ride home.


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#13 Pablo

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 05:46 PM

"I couldn't figure out how to take the front wheels off, without damaging something"

 

Sounds like me working on John's Cuc.  I tried every USA and Metric tool I owned, until I remembered I had a vintage Cox wrench sitting on my bench.

But it took an hour to find it :laugh2:

IMG_5063.JPG

 

Does anyone know what exact size those doggone acorn nuts are ? .196 ? 4.96 mm ? 5 mm ?

 


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#14 Mbloes

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 06:51 PM

I appreciate the idea, Bob, but this car doesn't qualify as "mint".

 

Just be aware that your chassis appears to be the "first" version, without the upright body tabs where you screw in the body from the side.


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#15 Mbloes

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 06:54 PM

Also, the old-school flip phone is a nice touch.


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#16 Bill from NH

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 07:06 PM

Want a hot rod? Get a can drive Champion 507 for it. Alternatively, have John Havlicek wind you a hotter than stock arm & then replace the stock magnets with something stronger. In 1967 I first put a French arm & magnets in mine before buying a 507. :)


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If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#17 Mattb

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 07:28 PM

That's a good ol' car just to play with.. Set of silicones and run it. There are a bunch of cuc's
out there, they are not some priceless old slot car. There seems to be an inflated price on ebay now, but watch during the summer and there will be good deals.
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#18 Neckcheese

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 07:44 PM

4 years ago, I bought a Ranelli 1:24 Porsche F1 + some parts for a Cuc car

 

The Ranelli was complete and OK, so the price seemed OK also, but when receiving the parts, I found out that the Cuc was i a very good shape and the only thing missing was a rear axle spacer which I actually had i my spare parts box, so I got two cars for the price of one:

 

Ranalli%252520Porsche%252520007.JPG

 

 

Cox%252520cuc%252520005.JPG

 

Cox%252520cuc%252520006.JPG

 

Cox%252520cuc%252520007.JPG

 

IMG_2725.JPG

 

IMG_2727.JPG

 

 

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#19 Gator Bob

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Posted 21 May 2015 - 08:15 PM

Nice save Niels!

 

Here is a hack one I sold on epay. It ran just fine.

 

http://www.worthpoin...ercutt-20831833


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#20 Pablo

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 08:20 AM

Good point, Mike B. no body mount tabs, guess I'll have to get creative to mount the TrueScale body.

Glad you like my dinosaur phone :laugh2:  Had it since about 2001.


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#21 Hworth08

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 08:57 AM

Just a common 3/16th inch socket fits the acorn nuts. The axle threads are 2-56 so if something happens to an acorn nut just a 2-56 nut works fine.

 

It is extremely easy to twist the threads off the axles even removing the nuts.

 

Body mounts were easy. We just screwed a piece of quarter inch brass angle with 2-56 self tapping screws, with washers, through the body slots. Drill the angle for 16th tubing.


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#22 Gator Bob

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 11:34 AM

Want a hot rod? Get a can drive Champion 507 for it. 

 

Or ... a Big Block ... :D


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#23 Bill from NH

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 11:57 AM

The 507 fits without butchering the Cuc body. Pablo's chassis is an early version, it doesn't have tabs tor ugly screws that would be required to mount most other bodies. He posted he's got a TrueScale cuc body in the mails. Let's see how he mounts it. :good:


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#24 Pablo

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 12:07 PM

Won't any can drive 16D with a Mabuchi gimbal bushing housing and the proper size endbell bushing housing fit ?


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#25 Gator Bob

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Posted 22 May 2015 - 12:21 PM

Yup ...


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#26 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 12:09 PM

Thanks Don H, thanks Bob.

 

Neils, or anybody else, let me know if you need the correct size rubber bands, I will soon have enough to supply everybody :)  Tan was the only color I could find them in  :boredom:


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 23 May 2015 - 01:02 PM

You can't true tapered Cuc wheels perfectly without a Hudy attachment.

My great friend, Dennis Samson, custom made one for me.  :dance3:

IMG_5105.JPG


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 11:03 AM

Disassembly: everything looks, indeed, never ran. The Iso hinge pin had some oxidation but it cleaned up real nice.

Why the rear axle had mismatched spacers that allowed one of the bearings to stick out, I don't know.

That, and the flat spot on one side for a sidewinder, sure didn't help. Obviously the wrong axle.

IMG_5184.JPG

 


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 25 May 2015 - 11:44 AM

I found a way to magically change the older style chassis without body mounting tabs to a newer one that has them.

So I'd appreciate any tips and pics on how all you Cuc fanatics mounted clear bodies on them.

Enlarge the holes a tad and install shaker pin tubing ?


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#30 Pablo

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Posted 30 May 2015 - 09:08 PM

Anybody ever colored rubber bands ?

Magic Marker ?

Rit dye ?

Paint ?


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#31 Gator Bob

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Posted 31 May 2015 - 12:21 AM

No but ... What color do you want?


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 31 May 2015 - 05:22 AM

Orange or blue, but they have to be # 14's and tan was the only color I found after a lengthy internet search.

Let me experiment with them and see, Bob.


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#33 slotbaker

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Posted 31 May 2015 - 06:06 AM

Pablo, found this link that has blue ones.

#14, 2" length x width 1/16"
 
Might be worth a look.
:huh:

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#34 Pablo

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 03:32 AM

Thanks Steve. Let me try my mad scientist art experiments first, if I fail, I'll check those out.

Looks like they only sell in bulk - maybe I could con them into sending me a few samples :)

Can hardly wait to start making this Cuc into a runner.  The chassis magically grew body mount tabs during my work week :shok:

I plan to lower the entire car and give it some power.  The TrueScale body is probably going to need some air control.

Now, where did I put those doggone Lexan sheets ? :dash2: :laugh2:


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#35 Hworth08

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 08:51 AM

A Cuk sold for $820 last weekend on ebay. So do it right! :)

 

Actually the Cox box was likely about $600 of the auction.


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#36 Mattb

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 12:36 PM


that was pretty rare package of Cuc, controller and carry case. Actually one I haven't seen before. Of course, now all the guys that have one for sale will think it's worth $800!!
Matt Bishop

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#37 Gator Bob

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 05:00 PM

I have asked myself in the past - "come on .. what is the 'korrect' color for that rubberband, man?"

 

IIRC they were Red #7 .. or was that the dye color in Funny-Face Chinese Cherry?  

 

 

$820 is more than most would pay for a cuc.


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#38 slotbaker

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 06:17 PM

I remember seeing red to reddish/brown rubber bands on the orange Cuc, and blue on the Super Cuc.

:huh:


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#39 Pablo

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 08:14 PM

No matter what color my rubber band ends up being (I might Tie-Dye it, Bob :crazy: )

my Cuc will probably be worth about half what I paid for it once I get done tweaking on it :to_become_senile:

Just don't plan on beating me at the track :aggressive:


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#40 Gator Bob

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Posted 03 June 2015 - 08:31 PM

Thirsty? :heat: 

 

The Florida Orange

"Cuc & Manta Ray" Proxy

 

All original parts - except any motor and tires. :clapping:


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#41 Pablo

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 05:20 PM

More practice with my new Iwata Neo.  Works fine. Here is "mine" TrueScale Cuc racing/running body.

 

Funny how John's original Cuc body is blue and his race body is orange, whereas my original is orange and my racing/running body is blue. I didn't plan all this, it just happened :laugh2:  Jay Guard, better look out, the cockroaches from Gulf Coast are coming soon.........

Yes, Bunky, all decals are on the inside :)

 

IMG_5923.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#42 slotbaker

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 06:32 PM

Nice looking Cuc.


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#43 Pablo

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 06:44 PM

Thanks, Steve :)


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#44 SlotStox#53

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 10:08 PM

Superb job on the Cuc painting Sir :D



#45 Pablo

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Posted 07 July 2015 - 09:21 PM

Thanks, guys :)

 

Everything pertinent regarding paint issues that you posted here, have been migrated to my new thread here:

http://slotblog.net/...ng-of-the-past/

 

We got to talking about paint problems so much I thought it wise if a new thread was started....my choice :)


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#46 Pablo

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Posted 17 July 2015 - 07:50 AM

Powerplant:  my plan is to make this a race Cuc :aggressive: not a shelf queen :curtsey:.

I opened up the Cox motor. Mint condition, never been run. Checked the shaft for straightness and verified a good assembly.

Buttoned it back up and left it bone stock.

 

Since I had to remove the factory "bug-a-boos" on the shaft to get the arm out, the pinion was soldered back on.

 

IMG_6023.JPG

 

Now the fun begins :)  Opened up my Vintage Motor Box(es) of Horrors and found an ugly reverse timed arm refurbed by Hershman. 

I had it marked "Good" - hopefully, it's not "Too Good" or it might bend the chassis :shok: :laugh2:

 

IMG_6032.JPG

 

Found a new Tradeship endbell and an old Champion Mabuchi can with BB and good magnets with a hole of about .560.  Should work well with the .513 arm.

I adjusted the nubs, set the mags, and Krazy Glued 'em.

 

IMG_6033.JPG


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#47 Pablo

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Posted 17 July 2015 - 10:30 AM

Plugged in the Hakko N454, and tried a better method of soldering hoods to holders.

I probably should have done it this way all along.  Craig Landry (R.I.P.) said:

"Hindsight is 20/20; that's why they don't make glasses to fit your butt"  :wink2:

 

Align with poor man's brush holder alignment tool:  .093" square tubing:

 

IMG_6038.JPG

 

Tack:

 

IMG_6053.JPG

 

Remove holder/hood assemblies, secure with small alligator clips so they won't move, and solder opposite ends.

Then switch clips to opposite ends, finalize the initial tack, etc.

 

IMG_6055.JPG

 

Guys like Capt. Rick do this in their sleep, but guys like me have to work at it, to get it right first time :D

 

IMG_6062.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#48 Pablo

Pablo

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Posted 17 July 2015 - 09:14 PM

I'm well aware of the danger in putting a 45 year old hot arm of questionable origin into a vintage setup. :shok:

But only a madman like me with nothing to lose would gamble on this combination:

-ugly arm with big wire and bubbles in the epoxy

-old magnets in a 45 year old can

-huge airgap (works well on modern 16D setups)

-teeny vintage 16D brushes (gifted by Brian McPherson years ago - Thanks Brian :) )

-no pre-radius of brushes, and only back yard methods of magnet and EB hardware alignment

 

The good news is, can and mags were recently zapped and arm refurbished by Hershman.

 

It was a tap dance making the steel pinion extend far enough to reach the teeth of a Parma 29T crown :o

The arm spacing (magnet placement) was more critical than usual.

 

Buttoned it up, fed it 2 V and it didn't start - I had to hand-spin it. She immediately sucked 2, then 3, then 3.5 A.  Temp was hot.  Stop. Not good :heat: :frown:

I thought, brushes too small for the big .200 comm. Bad arm. Airgap too big.  Mags too weak for this arm. Short circuit. Bad arm. Bad brushes. Spring tension too light.  :dash2:

First thing to suspect in a new motor that runs bad is: brushes.

Removed brushes to check break in progress and wear patterns.

Negative brush: wear looks good, needs a little more break in.

Positive brush: trailing edge not mating with the comm.

 

IMG_6065.JPG

 

Tweaked the positive spring, then 3 V again.  Started up nice, but still draws high Amps.  3, 2.8, 2.5, indicative of a new break in, since I had changed an alignment. Amps steadily decreased to about 1.8.  She wasn't as hot as the first run. Hmmm, maybe this is a simple brush break in issue, and there is hope after all ?  :)

 

Cool off, re-oil, 3 V again. Started right up, draws 1.8 A.  After a couple minutes, down to 1.4 A. 

Sounds and feels great, nice cool temp. It's a missile :dance3:

Powerplant complete.

 

IMG_6092.JPG

 

IMG_6095.JPG

 

 

Probably going to be way more power than I need for a 45 year old slot car :crazy:

 

 

 

 

 


Paul Wolcott

#49 Bill from NH

Bill from NH

    Age scrubs away speed!

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Posted 17 July 2015 - 09:39 PM

Photo looks like a Mura wound 25S arm.  Is it?  Amperage draw sounds okay. If you get cold down there, I had a new Koford B12 arm that's a real heater. On a PS it will draw more amps than volts.


Bill Fernald

If a chicken coop has 4 doors, does that make it a sedan?


#50 SlotStox#53

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Posted 17 July 2015 - 09:44 PM

Pablo, don't feel alone in your madness of putting together such a motor :good: Got a good supply of old parts just like these and I'm not afraid to use them :D :laugh2:





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