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Snake Bite III


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#26 Pablo

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Posted 13 June 2015 - 04:52 PM

I settled for a bigger notch than planned, but it will all come out in the laundry.

 

It's roughly tacked in place with gobs of solder. Most of it will get sucked underneath the bottom of the tube. Whatever remains will be "Soder-Wick"ed away. For now, it's precisely where I want it:

 

IMG_5513.JPG


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#27 Pablo

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 12:55 PM

Snake tongue/Snake pan management: making the notch in the tube a little too big allowed me to control the pan movements more precisely.

 

The rearmost corners of the TM tongue were a natural to serve as the front fore/aft stop.

Rear fore/aft stop is a piece of brass angle on top of the connector, reinforced with twin .032" rods.

This piece is what pushes the pan and body down the track, so I figured it needs to be fail proof  :aggressive:

 

Up stop (or down stop, depending on your point of reference :ph34r:) is a piece of .032" rod in front of the tube, which also strengthens the tube above its notch.

Left/right stops are twin pieces of brass angle butted against the tube in the rear, which also assist the tube in strengthening the pan rail cut-out area :hi:

 

The photo may not be pretty, but every piece here has at least one important job:

 

IMG_5555.JPG


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 04:08 PM

I'm going to acid bath and minitorch the top of the connector in an attempt to clean it up.

 

If I melt things I don't intend to, and if they move, I may have to emigrate to another country in shame.

 

If it works well, it will look pretty sano. And you may learn something - like, what NOT to do if I botch it  :laugh2:

 

IMG_5601.JPG


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#29 Gator Bob

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 04:25 PM

Pablo,

 

I can't tell from pictures 'what the hell is goin on' there. :dash2:

 

It's best to hold 'em in hand to feel that movement... you didn't say what species... is this one venomous?     :shok:

 

You best tell the marshals.  :o  


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                            Bob Israelite

#30 Pablo

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 04:41 PM

Bunky, get the halon bottle ready.  Don't try this at home, kids. :)

 

I placed the chassis on a hard block and suspended it over a wood block. That way, nothing sucks the heat away from my intended work.

 

IMG_5584.JPG


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#31 Eddie Fleming

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:06 PM

So you are going to make Bunky do it so you can blame it on him if it goes wrong?


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:17 PM

I can't tell from pictures 'what the hell is goin on' there.


You aren't the only one who has that problem sometimes, Bob. (I sent you more pictures.)
 

It's best to hold 'em in hand to feel that movement


Couldn't have said it any better myself. :)  Until you hold it in your hand, place it on a flat block, take calipers to it, who knows?
 

You didn't say what species... is this one venomous?


Yes!
 

You best tell the marshals.


Bob, the only thing the turn marshals need to know is Snake Bite cars are easy to pick up and put down. The outer edges of the pans have brass "L" angles built in to support the body skirts. The flags are blueprinted and have a soft self-centering action.


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#33 Pablo

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Posted 18 June 2015 - 05:36 PM

Eddie,

 

I don't let Bunky within 200 yards of my hobby room.  :laugh2:


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#34 Pablo

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 08:35 AM

Much better.  :)

 

IMG_5612.JPG


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#35 Pablo

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 05:35 PM

Pan management assembly is further strengthened by a "Z" front axle brace cornered between it and the pan.

 

Yes, I know the soldering work looks sloppy, but I'll clean it all up later. :D

 

My brother-in-law looked at the forward ends of the "factory" cut nosepiece area pan notches and said, "Somethin' ain't straight".

 

No, Bunky, the notch lengths are different.  :sarcastic_hand:   Go back to your trailer and leave me alone.   :laugh2:

 

IMG_5615.JPG


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#36 Pablo

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Posted 19 June 2015 - 06:30 PM

Last chance I'll have to clean and polish under the TM tongue before the rear pan limiters are affixed:

 

IMG_5645.JPG

 

Since this piece pushes the pan and body, I figured it was worth cleaning, sanding with 400 wet/dry, then polishing with 2,000 wet/dry:

 

IMG_5651.JPG


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#37 Pablo

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 05:25 PM

Rear pan management:

 

The (.039") wires protrude slightly past the front of the 3/32" square tube pieces as a visual reference for lift and wiggle. The wire must be level and straight in relation to the tubes. Tacked, checked on a FLAT block, adjusted, re-checked, then soldered home.

 

IMG_5673.JPG

 

Front wheels:

 

Custom keepers made from JK aluminum hubs.  Set screws shortened, just for fun.  :wink3:

 

IMG_5682.JPG  

 

All eight rotating surfaces were faced with a Magnehone tool, then polished with 2,000 grit wet/dry sandpaper

 

IMG_5687.JPG  


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#38 Pablo

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 07:07 PM

Front axle trimmed to size for a perfectly centered 3.122" width

 

IMG_5688.JPG

 

I found if the axle ends are cut a hair shorter than the outside retainers, it makes a little nest for the solder to pool up quick before bad things happen.

 

IMG_5690.JPG

 

Tinning the freshly cut axle ends helps make the retainer soldering process pain-free.

 

IMG_5700.JPG


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#39 Pablo

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 08:51 PM

I don't remember what brand these non-shielded ball bearings are, but they sure are thin. It will be nothing short of a miracle if I'm able to solder them in without problems.  :P

They were soaked in lacquer thinner to remove factory grease.

 

IMG_5715.JPG

 

Cleaned up the R-Geo jig wheels, and checked my PCH 3/32" jig axle for straightness

 

IMG_5711.JPG

 

This time, I'm trying a different approach to setting bearings. All the pin sleeves came off the R-Geo jig.

The middle pins still align the 3.125" legal width, but the axle pins only serve as visual references.

 

IMG_5713.JPG

 

Mike Steube in the Keith Tanaka video proclaimed himself a "freebuilder". Anybody else catch that? I did.

By removing the sleeves, it frees everything up.

 

If this works, the bearings will be soldered in and set perfectly, first time, no problemo. If not, it will be painful   :dash2: :laugh2:  


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#40 Gator Bob

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 09:06 PM

Loctite 680.


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                            Bob Israelite

#41 Pablo

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 09:23 PM

I have 271, but you have about 30 minutes to convince me to change my mind before I solder them in.  :bomb: :)


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 10:16 PM

These have to be Kofords. When I spin the axle, once it finally stops, the set screws bottom out like lead weights. 


IMG_5718.JPG

 

Good Lord, I hope I don't screw these up...

 

Now, where did I put that doggone silver solder? :D

 

IMG_5723.JPG


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#43 Bill from NH

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 10:23 PM

Soldering may anneal the bearing's balls and other parts. On motor bearings that were soldered in cans, we used ultrasonic cleaners to first remove all signs of lubrication. Later, we soldered in a brass bearing holder to center the bearing and glued the can bearings. Brian Saunders did the thing when he was building contemporary scale motors.


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#44 Pablo

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 11:34 PM

Success.  :)

 

The Koford BBs clung to the Chi bracket like a koala to a eucalyptus branch. 

 

IMG_5732.JPG

 

Into the tumbler she goes...


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#45 NSwanberg

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Posted 21 June 2015 - 12:03 AM

"Tinning the freshly cut axle ends helps make the retainer soldering process pain-free"

 

I am more interested in a pain-free removal process. :dash2: 


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#46 Pablo

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Posted 21 June 2015 - 12:24 AM

Look at the second photo in post #38, Nelson.

 

To remove the wheel, apply a drop of acid flux, heat, then pull. The wheel and retainer both come right off.

 

Just don't expect to ever find, or use, the retainer again.  :)


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#47 Michael Rigsby

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Posted 21 June 2015 - 06:59 AM

Really enjoying this build, Pablo. Very sanitary and well thought out construction as usual.


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#48 dc-65x

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Posted 21 June 2015 - 10:03 AM

Looking good, Pablo. You know, it reminds me a bit of TonyP's Starship.


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#49 Pablo

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Posted 21 June 2015 - 11:42 AM

Thanks, guys.  :)

 

Out of the tumbler, she had a ceramic piece inside the tongue tube that took forever to get out.  :dash2: :laugh2:

 

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#50 Pablo

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Posted 21 June 2015 - 04:35 PM

Chicagoland Wide bracket:

 

- JK Hawk Retro motor with ARP 9t pinion mates to 28t Parma crown perfectly by simply making it flush with the end of the shaft.

- Bracket hole mikes about .248", but pinion mikes about .252". Easy fix, a couple light passes with a chainsaw file...

 

IMG_5788.JPG

 

JK Indy 2" body clips with a "racing bend" up front.

Making the holes precisely paid off here; a very slight tweak was all it took to make them an absolute perfect fit.

Not trying to brag, but I've done this before. Bunky says "It ain't braggin' if ya can back it up".  :)

 

IMG_5791.JPG


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