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Billy and Minnie Watson "His 'n Hers" cars


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 08:29 PM

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Here's where it all started:

 

Billy's choice was a Jupiter.
Minnie's was a two-seater Go-Kart.
 
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No rules - I can do whatever I want.  :dance3: :D
 
The Jupiter will be Model Master Grape Flake.
The Go-Kart will definitely be Minnie's racing color - Faskolors Hot Pink.


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#2 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 09:38 PM

Very cool. Building cars for two very good people.


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 06:41 AM

As always, everything starts with, and revolves around, the body. First step before I could start was a rough trim on the cut lines to determine basic measurements and what type motors will fit under these beasties.
 
IMG_6511.JPG
 
Jupiter
Wheelbase:  4"
Guide lead:  1/2"
Front width:  2-7/8"
Rear width:  3"
Motor:  16D endbell drive
Chassis:  inline with WRP drag racing bracket
Rear wheels: 1/8 vintage .750" OD
 
Go-Kart
Wheelbase:  3-3/4"
Guide lead:  9/16"
Chassis width:  2-13/16"
Rear width:  3"
Motor: PS 4002B
Chassis: anglewinder
Rear wheels: vintage .660" OD
 
Now I can start planning and parts gathering. :dance3:


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#4 Pablo

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 10:33 AM

Nothing is written in stone yet, but I have a basic plan for both cars.
 
Billy's will be an inline chassis with tilting pans, big wire balanced arm modern mags 16D motor, 1/8" rear axle, and independent front wheels.
 
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Minnie's will be an anglewinder chassis, FK size motor, 3/32" rear axle, 64 pitch gears, and independent front wheels.
 
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#5 Samiam

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 04:48 PM

This is going to be good. :popcorm1:


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 08:12 PM

Thanks, Sam, I'm glad somebody is watching. Nobody noticed a can drive motor for an endbell drive car, so I wonder if anyone is even reading this. :umnik2: :laugh2:

The hot can drive motor I stole from "Mine La Cucaracha" (it didn't need that much power anyway) had enough shaft on its endbell side to convert. Hopefully it will have good brakes, decent straight speeds, and smooth acceleration.  :D
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#7 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 08:47 PM

I was going to tell you to go can drive since that REHCo bracket has a 6mm bearing hole. But I figured you already knew that. Screws into a metal can are a much stronger arrangement than screws into a plastic endbell. The extra horizontal mounting holes are for a can-mounted hemi.

 

How many rolls of blue tape did you use taping up that motor? :laugh2:  

 

In case you didn't know, I'm watching these builds.


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#8 Pablo

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 06:46 PM

I'm glad you're watching, Bill.   :D

 

This bearing on this can is > 7 mm and doesn't fit that size hole. Even if I wanted to make it fit, this can has no mounting holes.

Endbell drives don't vibrate the chassis as much as a can drive, plus, I thought Billy might like it this way for nostalgic reasons.  :sun_bespectacled:

 

Yes, I used half a roll of blue tape.  :laugh2:


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#9 Pablo

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Posted 18 August 2015 - 05:17 PM

Billy, I used a practice Cuc body to test paint colors for your Jupiter with my new airbrush, new compressor, and home made paint booth.

What do you think about this shade of purple ?

 

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The gold didn't pop as well as I hoped (maybe it needs more yellow in it ?) and the black backing made it look silver-ish.

Will white work as backing for gold ?

 

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#10 Pablo

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 03:06 PM

After much gnashing of teeth, I (finally) decided on a bracket/gearing/rail combination.

7/27 with about .760" wheels.

 

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WRP (RW-02) drag racing bracket, with the bottom of the face shaved about .060" to make it equal with the sides.

 

Mathematically, a 16D motor needs about a .750" wheel to make it clear 1/16" when it's flat on deck.

I wanted bigger wheels, but everything is a trade-off - the only way to do it would be raise the motor.

Which I refuse to do. It's a Thingie and it's my choice. :D

I wanted a bracket with sides on deck, level with the face.

That way the first rail can lay against the side and bend up to brace the tubes.

The best way I found was the WRP 02. A 27T Parma crown will clear about .032" and the rest will clear 1/16".

Just like back in the day.... :)

 

I don't like the way the REHCO has giant axle tube holes, and the sides are elevated.

Not for this build anyway.  So it goes back into the vintage bracket box of horrors.

Thanks to Bill from NH for coaching me through my madness :crazy:


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 11:35 AM

Mock up to verify correct tube length:

 

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Billy, say "ahhhhh" - here is your tongue assembly. :)

Cobra has 10 thou tilt; trimmed and trued to make the flag stop at 45 degree angles.

Shaft hole and rotating surfaces polished.

1" by .925" by .063" chunk, flattened, trued, and corners radiused.

 

IMG_6579.JPG


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 03:18 PM

Blueprinted Jet Flag with Koford spacers, secured with Classic weight:

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#13 Pablo

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 05:13 PM

First rail, tinned .063 wire tacked in place to the chunk, bracket, and tube:

 

IMG_6600.JPG


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#14 Pablo

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Posted 30 August 2015 - 02:34 PM

Wire and rod sandwich. Amidships and forward rail spacers are rod; rear spacer is wire

 

IMG_6615.JPG


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#15 Pablo

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Posted 10 September 2015 - 06:31 PM

Billy's Jupiter has big power and needs a strong motor box:

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Stylish 1967 bracing:

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#16 Don Weaver

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Posted 10 September 2015 - 07:11 PM

I knew you'd find a use for that piece of .072" rod :D.
 
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#17 Pablo

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Posted 10 September 2015 - 07:37 PM

Don,

I unintentionally fooled you by experimenting with my camera in "macro" mode. :D
The six "L" braces are .039" wire
Twin "Semi - U" braces are .055" wire
Everything else is .063" wire and brass rod.
 
I will find a use for the big brass rod, but not now.  :dance3:
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#18 Pablo

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Posted 12 September 2015 - 07:13 PM

Independent tilting "L" arm .063" axles, tinned and polished.

IMG_6766.JPG
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#19 Pablo

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Posted 13 September 2015 - 02:15 PM

Down stops for the axles are pieces of .039" wire nested between rails and hinge tubes. They allow the bottoms of the wheels to drop about .063" past ground zero.

Up tilt will be dampened by wires - I'll attach those later - right now I like having the wheels up out of my way. :)

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#20 Pablo

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Posted 13 September 2015 - 04:45 PM

PCH axle is perfectly straight, cut to size and polished.

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First trim of the wheels .770".

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#21 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:51 PM

All plumbered up and ready for pans:

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#22 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 03:36 PM

Pan sandwich tack-soldered together a la Mike Steube - everything done has a mirror effect. Rough front wheel cutout is going to be curved later. 

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Here comes the tricky part, cutting curves in the pans to form fit the body like a glove. I've done this before, but no guarantee I can get lucky twice.   :)
You can see my penciled body outline on the jig, but that was preliminary and rough. I'll do it better after I finish sand the body skirt flat with 220 grit.

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#23 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 05:55 PM

Jupiter body is nice and flat after 220 sanding:

 

IMG_6813.JPG

 

She lays flush on Rick's Jig for Sharpie marking. Now it's easy to see how the pans need to be cut:

 

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It's a "Thingie" - no rules. I can plumber and tilt pans on an inline if I want.   :dance3:


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#24 bluecars

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 06:08 PM

:mosking: We don't need no stinking rules for this one. :mosking:


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#25 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 01:37 PM

.032" Jupiter pans. Do ya think I'm sexy?   :rolleyes:

 

IMG_6817.JPG


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