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Billy and Minnie Watson "His 'n Hers" cars


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#1 Pablo

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 08:29 PM

IMG_8285.JPG

 

IMG_8282.JPG

 

Here's where it all started:

 

Billy's choice was a Jupiter.
Minnie's was a two-seater Go-Kart.
 
IMG_6478.JPG
 
No rules - I can do whatever I want.  :dance3: :D
 
The Jupiter will be Model Master Grape Flake.
The Go-Kart will definitely be Minnie's racing color - Faskolors Hot Pink.


Paul Wolcott




#2 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 02 August 2015 - 09:38 PM

Very cool. Building cars for two very good people.


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#3 Pablo

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 06:41 AM

As always, everything starts with, and revolves around, the body. First step before I could start was a rough trim on the cut lines to determine basic measurements and what type motors will fit under these beasties.
 
IMG_6511.JPG
 
Jupiter
Wheelbase:  4"
Guide lead:  1/2"
Front width:  2-7/8"
Rear width:  3"
Motor:  16D endbell drive
Chassis:  inline with WRP drag racing bracket
Rear wheels: 1/8 vintage .750" OD
 
Go-Kart
Wheelbase:  3-3/4"
Guide lead:  9/16"
Chassis width:  2-13/16"
Rear width:  3"
Motor: PS 4002B
Chassis: anglewinder
Rear wheels: vintage .660" OD
 
Now I can start planning and parts gathering. :dance3:


Paul Wolcott

#4 Pablo

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 10:33 AM

Nothing is written in stone yet, but I have a basic plan for both cars.
 
Billy's will be an inline chassis with tilting pans, big wire balanced arm modern mags 16D motor, 1/8" rear axle, and independent front wheels.
 
IMG_6512.JPG
 
Minnie's will be an anglewinder chassis, FK size motor, 3/32" rear axle, 64 pitch gears, and independent front wheels.
 
IMG_6513.JPG
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#5 Samiam

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 04:48 PM

This is going to be good. :popcorm1:


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#6 Pablo

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 08:12 PM

Thanks, Sam, I'm glad somebody is watching. Nobody noticed a can drive motor for an endbell drive car, so I wonder if anyone is even reading this. :umnik2: :laugh2:

The hot can drive motor I stole from "Mine La Cucaracha" (it didn't need that much power anyway) had enough shaft on its endbell side to convert. Hopefully it will have good brakes, decent straight speeds, and smooth acceleration.  :D
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#7 Bill from NH

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Posted 04 August 2015 - 08:47 PM

I was going to tell you to go can drive since that REHCo bracket has a 6mm bearing hole. But I figured you already knew that. Screws into a metal can are a much stronger arrangement than screws into a plastic endbell. The extra horizontal mounting holes are for a can-mounted hemi.

 

How many rolls of blue tape did you use taping up that motor? :laugh2:  

 

In case you didn't know, I'm watching these builds.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#8 Pablo

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Posted 05 August 2015 - 06:46 PM

I'm glad you're watching, Bill.   :D

 

This bearing on this can is > 7 mm and doesn't fit that size hole. Even if I wanted to make it fit, this can has no mounting holes.

Endbell drives don't vibrate the chassis as much as a can drive, plus, I thought Billy might like it this way for nostalgic reasons.  :sun_bespectacled:

 

Yes, I used half a roll of blue tape.  :laugh2:


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#9 Pablo

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Posted 18 August 2015 - 05:17 PM

Billy, I used a practice Cuc body to test paint colors for your Jupiter with my new airbrush, new compressor, and home made paint booth.

What do you think about this shade of purple ?

 

IMG_6561.JPG

 

The gold didn't pop as well as I hoped (maybe it needs more yellow in it ?) and the black backing made it look silver-ish.

Will white work as backing for gold ?

 

IMG_6556.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#10 Pablo

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Posted 28 August 2015 - 03:06 PM

After much gnashing of teeth, I (finally) decided on a bracket/gearing/rail combination.

7/27 with about .760" wheels.

 

IMG_6568.JPG

 

WRP (RW-02) drag racing bracket, with the bottom of the face shaved about .060" to make it equal with the sides.

 

Mathematically, a 16D motor needs about a .750" wheel to make it clear 1/16" when it's flat on deck.

I wanted bigger wheels, but everything is a trade-off - the only way to do it would be raise the motor.

Which I refuse to do. It's a Thingie and it's my choice. :D

I wanted a bracket with sides on deck, level with the face.

That way the first rail can lay against the side and bend up to brace the tubes.

The best way I found was the WRP 02. A 27T Parma crown will clear about .032" and the rest will clear 1/16".

Just like back in the day.... :)

 

I don't like the way the REHCO has giant axle tube holes, and the sides are elevated.

Not for this build anyway.  So it goes back into the vintage bracket box of horrors.

Thanks to Bill from NH for coaching me through my madness :crazy:


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#11 Pablo

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 11:35 AM

Mock up to verify correct tube length:

 

IMG_6575.JPG

 

Billy, say "ahhhhh" - here is your tongue assembly. :)

Cobra has 10 thou tilt; trimmed and trued to make the flag stop at 45 degree angles.

Shaft hole and rotating surfaces polished.

1" by .925" by .063" chunk, flattened, trued, and corners radiused.

 

IMG_6579.JPG


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#12 Pablo

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 03:18 PM

Blueprinted Jet Flag with Koford spacers, secured with Classic weight:

IMG_6592.JPG


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#13 Pablo

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Posted 29 August 2015 - 05:13 PM

First rail, tinned .063 wire tacked in place to the chunk, bracket, and tube:

 

IMG_6600.JPG


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#14 Pablo

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Posted 30 August 2015 - 02:34 PM

Wire and rod sandwich. Amidships and forward rail spacers are rod; rear spacer is wire

 

IMG_6615.JPG


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#15 Pablo

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Posted 10 September 2015 - 06:31 PM

Billy's Jupiter has big power and needs a strong motor box:

STA_6699.JPG
 
IMG_6706.JPG
 
Stylish 1967 bracing:

IMG_6702.JPG
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#16 Don Weaver

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Posted 10 September 2015 - 07:11 PM

I knew you'd find a use for that piece of .072" rod :D.
 
Don

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#17 Pablo

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Posted 10 September 2015 - 07:37 PM

Don,

I unintentionally fooled you by experimenting with my camera in "macro" mode. :D
The six "L" braces are .039" wire
Twin "Semi - U" braces are .055" wire
Everything else is .063" wire and brass rod.
 
I will find a use for the big brass rod, but not now.  :dance3:
Paul Wolcott

#18 Pablo

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Posted 12 September 2015 - 07:13 PM

Independent tilting "L" arm .063" axles, tinned and polished.

IMG_6766.JPG
Paul Wolcott

#19 Pablo

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Posted 13 September 2015 - 02:15 PM

Down stops for the axles are pieces of .039" wire nested between rails and hinge tubes. They allow the bottoms of the wheels to drop about .063" past ground zero.

Up tilt will be dampened by wires - I'll attach those later - right now I like having the wheels up out of my way. :)

IMG_6777.JPG
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#20 Pablo

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Posted 13 September 2015 - 04:45 PM

PCH axle is perfectly straight, cut to size and polished.

IMG_6786.JPG
 
First trim of the wheels .770".

IMG_6791.JPG
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#21 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 12:51 PM

All plumbered up and ready for pans:

IMG_6800.JPG
 
IMG_6803.JPG
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#22 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 03:36 PM

Pan sandwich tack-soldered together a la Mike Steube - everything done has a mirror effect. Rough front wheel cutout is going to be curved later. 

IMG_6810.JPG
 
Here comes the tricky part, cutting curves in the pans to form fit the body like a glove. I've done this before, but no guarantee I can get lucky twice.   :)
You can see my penciled body outline on the jig, but that was preliminary and rough. I'll do it better after I finish sand the body skirt flat with 220 grit.

IMG_6809.JPG
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#23 Pablo

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 05:55 PM

Jupiter body is nice and flat after 220 sanding:

 

IMG_6813.JPG

 

She lays flush on Rick's Jig for Sharpie marking. Now it's easy to see how the pans need to be cut:

 

IMG_6815.JPG

 

It's a "Thingie" - no rules. I can plumber and tilt pans on an inline if I want.   :dance3:


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#24 bluecars

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Posted 15 September 2015 - 06:08 PM

:mosking: We don't need no stinking rules for this one. :mosking:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#25 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 01:37 PM

.032" Jupiter pans. Do ya think I'm sexy?   :rolleyes:

 

IMG_6817.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#26 Bill from NH

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 02:28 PM

Since you used the Steube method of soldering the pans together before cutting, why did you have to mark them left and right? Old habit? Are they really not identical?

Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#27 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 02:58 PM

Because I like to have the concave side of the brass up, and convex down. Not that big a deal with .032", but it's something to consider with .063" for sure.

 

Learned that from Dennis Samson.  :)


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#28 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 05:03 PM

Hey Billy, it's starting to look like a Thingie.

 

IMG_6823.JPG


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#29 Pablo

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 08:47 PM

Thanks to Tony P for general advice on wire-loading for "L" arm front wheels . :victory:

.025" wire inside pieces of 3/32" tube persuade the front axles downward just a little bit.

 

IMG_6833.JPG

 

Chassis is done. Final quality checks:

- Everything perfectly flat?

- Equal amounts of pan tilt and plumbing lift?

- No pan droop?

- Body form fits pan curves?

- Rear axle bushings in perfect alignment?

- Pin tubes countersunk and ready for pins?

- Plumbing aligned?

 

Yup, etc. etc. Time for a bath...   :D


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#30 SlotStox#53

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Posted 16 September 2015 - 10:24 PM

See you're making good use of your bandsaw with those curvy pans.   :D

That is one cool-looking Thingie chassis!

Always liked the sprung L front axles ever since having one of those Parma I15 cars.



#31 Pablo

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 08:21 AM

Thanks, Paul.  :)

 

I like the "L" arm design because it fits right in with my dislike of front wheels.

 

Best of both worlds - they keep the wheel lovers satisfied, provide gentle rolling support, and tilt up out of the way. :dance3:


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#32 Pablo

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 10:42 AM

Eight hours in the tumbler, and the front axle springs remained perfectly intact - amazing!   :D

 

IMG_6851.JPG

 

IMG_6835.JPG

 

IMG_6844.JPG

 

Pan management: brass axle keepers on the .055" wire bite bar ends, and .032" brass rod downstops.

Little bit of lift, and a little bit of tilt.  :to_become_senile:

 

IMG_6853.JPG


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#33 bluecars

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 02:21 PM

Great build as always. :good:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#34 airhead

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Posted 17 September 2015 - 03:41 PM

Thingies are spreading fast, soon every track in America will be covered with them.


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#35 Asp

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 12:07 PM

Stunning build... I'm looking forward to your next project...


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#36 Pablo

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Posted 18 September 2015 - 07:23 PM

Thanks, guys.

 

Yeah, Asp, I'll bet you are.   :)


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#37 airhead

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Posted 19 September 2015 - 06:28 AM

When someone turns these thingie cars over, expecting to see a '60s era brass chassis and instead, find a work of art in design and assembly.


Billy Watson

#38 Pablo

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Posted 25 September 2015 - 04:16 AM

Assembly is complete:

 

IMG_6876.JPG


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#39 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 25 September 2015 - 07:18 AM

Beautiful work, Paul.  

 

Love those pans! :good:


"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti


#40 Bill from NH

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Posted 25 September 2015 - 08:03 AM

Is Billy painting his own body? :)


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#41 Régis4446

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Posted 26 September 2015 - 07:47 AM

:clapping: Very nice job.


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#42 Pablo

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Posted 26 September 2015 - 03:46 PM

Thanks a lot, guys.  :)

 

I think the paint job turned out nice, but you can be the judge:

 

IMG_6887.JPG

 

IMG_6889.JPG


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Paul Wolcott

#43 bluecars

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Posted 26 September 2015 - 05:20 PM

Gets my vote. Got blue in it. :good:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#44 Pablo

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Posted 26 September 2015 - 06:21 PM

Red,

 

Take your car off when you see the Jupiter coming.  :P  

Drivetrain test last night had the neighborhood cats scrambling for cover - this car will surely damage something.  :aggressive:

 

IMG_6908.JPG
 

Which driver head to use? Billy will probably like the vintage guy with tinted blue goggles...

 

IMG_6900.JPG


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#45 Bill from NH

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Posted 26 September 2015 - 08:48 PM

The Jupiter body came out nice! Minnie's car will have to be fogged in pink.


Bill Fernald
 

My wife says I don't pay enough attention to her, or something like that.  :unknw:


#46 Pablo

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Posted 26 September 2015 - 11:40 PM

Exactly, Bill.  :yes3:


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#47 Pablo

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Posted 28 September 2015 - 04:18 AM

Billy and Minnie, this is my way of saying, "Thanks for the fun at The Dungeon" over the years.
 
Jupiter is on its way. Go-Kart will soon follow...
 
IMG_6919.JPG
 
IMG_6925.JPG
 
IMG_6931.JPG
 
IMG_6967.JPG
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#48 bluecars

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Posted 28 September 2015 - 06:11 AM

Looks great!!! As long as Billy's head doesn't fall into the motor hole. LOL.  :laugh2:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 


#49 Pablo

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Posted 28 September 2015 - 02:32 PM

Thanks, Red. :)

 

That would hurt, falling nose first into a spinning armature. But it won't happen -

 

1. His neck is JB Welded to the can

2. The cockpit is such a tight fit he can't move :laugh2:

 

IMG_6978.JPG


Paul Wolcott

#50 bluecars

bluecars

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Posted 28 September 2015 - 02:44 PM

I wasn't worried. LOL :good:


Robert "Red" Valantine :diablo: 






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