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Monogram "Forty Niner" Slingshot Dragster


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#1 dc-65x

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 06:42 PM

I've always wanted to build a 1/32 rail dragster. I was inspired by Bob Braverman's 1964 Rod & Custom Magazine build article but I never seemed to get around to it:

 

scan0204.jpg

 

That is until I stumbled across a vintage model kit I hadn't seen before on eBay:

 

theDragsterFortyNiner-vi.jpg

 

Mongram%20Slingshot%20Dragster-1.jpg

 

It's a 1962 model kit from their "compact Model" series:

 

Mongram%20Slingshot%20Dragster-3.jpg

 

The other model cars in this series are described as 1/32 scale but I believe this dragster is a bit bigger. Nowhere in the paper work or on the box can I find any mention of what scale it is:

 

Mongram%20Slingshot%20Dragster-2.jpg

 

It's still smaller than 1/24 but bigger than a true 1/32 scale. Bob Braverman's build was a bit bigger than 1/32 scale too. He even used a 1/24 model kit motor in his rail.

 

I also found pictures of someone's beautiful build of this kit. I think it looks SOOOOOOOO cool:  :wub:

 

IMG1343.jpg

 

The first thing I had to figure out were the front wheels. I almost tried to use the one piece model kit wheels and tires. :unknw:

 

Then I found some pictures of period rails with "full moon" hubcap fronts:

 

drag-20cars-20-3-jpg.2910829.jpg

 

svd1.jpg

 

So.........here are the fronts I'm going with:

 

Slingshot%202.jpg

 

The full moon hubcaps are from the AMT double dragster kit and sanded down to fit. They'll be painted with Tamiya gloss aluminum. Also shown is a Dynamic 1/16" axle reducer for a wire front axle:

 

Slingshot%209.jpg

 

The model kit rear wheels/tires were cut down into wheel inserts:

 

Slingshot%201.jpg

 

I used 30mm Germans and Russkit wheels at first:

 

Slingshot%203.jpg

 

The 30mm (on the left below) were a bit smaller than the model kit's rears so I also mounted up some 40mm Germans (on the right below):

 

Slingshot%208.jpg

 

Next up is choosing a motor and starting the rails frame...........


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#2 Tim Wilkins

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 06:56 PM

Looks cool Rick.  Should be an interesting project.


"If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti


#3 Don Weaver

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 07:11 PM

How about one of John's "peanut" motors with a weak winding?  I played around with a 1/32 funny car once with a somewhat mild motor and all it would do was flip the thing over  :shok:!

 

Don Weaver


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#4 racie35

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 07:25 PM

I like it!
Bruce Thomas

#5 racie35

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 07:28 PM

I built one for a proxy race but didn't finish in time...1/32 rail also..used a HR 40,000 and it stay planted pretty well. Orig with my drop arm it would just wheelie out of the slot. Had to immobilize that
Bruce Thomas

#6 dc-65x

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Posted 04 September 2015 - 08:16 PM

My thinking is to keep the project around 1964 so that's where the "Wayback" machine is set.

 

wayback.jpg

 

I've found an appropriate motor that fit's inside the body picked out. I'll take some pics...........


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#7 idare2bdul

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 12:57 AM

You might enjoy checking out JDS racing on Facebook. He has vintage dragster. Gasser and altered chassis and bodies. They go together so well even i can build one.

Your local track can order any of these for you.


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#8 endbelldrive

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 06:05 AM

...I've found an appropriate motor that fit's inside the body picked out. I'll take some pics...........

Verrry interested to see what you come up with.  Your public awaits.


Bob Suzuki

#9 dc-65x

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 01:11 PM

Hi Mike,

 

I checked out JDS and they make some really nice modern stuff....thanks!  I'm still a lost in the 60's scratch builder though. :crazy:

 

Here's the motor for the project Bob. Pretty anticlimactic but it's what fits, the good old Pittman 196A:

 

Slingshot.jpg

 

So far I'm going to leave it stock as this car is more about "the look" to me than it's ET's at the strip....but we'll see :)

 

Here's the start of the frame. Just some 1/16" pin tube and 1/32" flat brass sheet motor mounts set up in my Rick's Jig. I seem to be able to setup almost anything in this versatile jig:

 

Slingshot%2014.jpg

 

With these screwed onto the motor I added a 1/32" brass sheet stiffener:

 

Slingshot%2013.jpg

 

Here it is installed. I'm going to mount the plastic engine on top of this plate....I hope! That pin tube going across the back is the front body mount:

 

Slingshot%2012.jpg

 

Next up is the front end..........


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#10 racie35

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Posted 05 September 2015 - 03:48 PM

Pretty slick!
Bruce Thomas

#11 endbelldrive

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Posted 06 September 2015 - 04:38 PM

I could get into a "Lost In The '60's" 1/32 Rail Dragster Pittman 196A powered scratchbuild project.  They wouldn't set any records but they could be the coolest thing on 4 wheels.


Bob Suzuki

#12 SlotStox#53

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Posted 06 September 2015 - 05:08 PM

Doesn't matter if it doesn't melt the track, if it's got the look and feels like you dragged it out of the wayback that's all that matters :D

Crack on Rick :good:
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#13 dc-65x

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Posted 06 September 2015 - 06:50 PM

 

Crack on Rick.............

 

Right!  :)

 

I ordered some 1/8" square brass to make these main frame rail goodies for the front end...........

 

Slingshot%2010.jpg

 

...............and the rest of the front end bits:

 

Slingshot%204.jpg

 

I wanted to make my front end look......kinda sorta maybe a bit like the model kit front end. Here's what I came up with (I still need to add the radius rods and steering arm):

 

Slingshot%205.jpg

 

Here's the chassis so far:

 

Slingshot%206.jpg

 

I'm going to somehow get the body mounted before I move on.............


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#14 dc-65x

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Posted 08 September 2015 - 06:59 PM

Slowly making more progress. I decided to use these Dynamic bearings as the Pittman rear end had no bearings at all. I had to shorten the bearings over 1/8" but all that was reduced was the "oil reservoir", not any of the bearing surface:

 

Slingshot%2020.jpg

 

The Pittman rear end was drilled for the bearings and a rear pin tube body mount:

 

Slingshot%2022.jpg

 

Here are the rear body mount parts:

 

Slingshot%2016.jpg

 

The installed rear body mount and the model kit "full pan" body cut for chassis clearance:

 

Slingshot%2019.jpg

 

So the body is held on with pins instead of some hidden fastener which I couldn't come up with.   :unknw:    At least the rear pins are hidden behind the rear tires. :)    The front pins will be painted body color.

 

Slingshot%2018.jpg

 

I wanted all the body mounting to be in front of the cockpit which this method accomplished. Hopefully, I can fit the rear seat, driver, roll bar and steering wheel in there:

 

Slingshot%2015.jpg

 

Here's the first mock up of the dragster:

 

Slingshot%2021.jpg

 

Slingshot%2017.jpg

 

The guide flag install is next up.........


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#15 SlotStox#53

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Posted 08 September 2015 - 11:17 PM

Love it Rick :D

The close tolerances of the body/mounts and motor, most excellent work .

#16 racie35

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Posted 09 September 2015 - 07:07 AM

Really cool Rick
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#17 beardogracing

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Posted 09 September 2015 - 09:13 AM

Rick, you sure do perty work.


Chris Wright

 

 


#18 Joe Mig

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Posted 09 September 2015 - 09:22 AM

Looking good,very good.
Joseph Migliaccio. Karma it's a wonderful thing.

"Drive it like you're in it!!!"

"If everything feels under control... you are not going fast enough!"

Some people are like Slinkies... they're really good for nothing... but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

#19 dc-65x

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Posted 09 September 2015 - 10:40 AM

Thanks guys! :) 

 

Chris, I used your reinforcement technique of 1.6 pound fiberglass cloth and thin ZAP glue on the body. Once I made the cuts for the rear axle/wheel clearance it went from a strong 2-piece to a fragile 4-piece body. The reinforcement is holding strong.........thanks!


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#20 dc-65x

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Posted 27 September 2015 - 06:44 PM

I wanted to hide the guide flag as much as possible and I also wanted to get some weight over the front axle. My idea was to mount the guide behind the front axle and cover it with the gas tank.

 

I made a sketch for a solid brass 3/8" bar stock gas tank the same size as the model kit piece:

 

Slingshot%2030.jpg

 

The first operation was to radius one end with a 1/16" corner rounding end mill using it as a lathe tool bit:

 

Slingshot%2029.jpg

 

Then the full length bar stock was aligned in a rotary fixture in my milling machine:

 

Slingshot%2026.jpg

 

A flat was cut on the bottom of the "tank" then a 2-56 threaded mounting hole and a clearance hole for the guide post were drilled. The spin fixture was then rotated 180 degrees and the hole for the guide mounting screw-gas cap drilled:

 

 

 

Slingshot%2031.jpg

 

A 1/32 brass strip with a 5/32 guide flag tube was soldered to the bottom frame rails. Shown is the gas tank and all the bits to mount it and the guide flag:

 

Slingshot%2024.jpg

 

Here the guide and gas tank are installed:

 

Slingshot%2027.jpg

 

I'm happy with the way it turned out:

 

Slingshot%2028.jpg

 

Time to get this baby running..........


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#21 SlotStox#53

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Posted 28 September 2015 - 12:21 PM

Wow Rick !! Just when you think "oh you'd use a brass guide collar /weight" you break out the machining skillz and create an exquisite looking fuel cell :D

Although I love all your other creations this little 1/32 dragster is just so sweet.

#22 dc-65x

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Posted 28 September 2015 - 12:40 PM

Hi Paul,

 

I knew I wanted to hide the guide flag as much as possible, hold the guide in place and get some weight over the front end. I fretted on how to do this for weeks until I came up with what, in hindsight, seems like a really neat and simple solution.

 

Me likey too! :D


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#23 dc-65x

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Posted 05 October 2015 - 09:04 PM

It's in one lump.........finally!

 

Slingshot%2038.jpg

 

It actually runs pretty well around my little road course

 

Slingshot%2033.jpg

 

It's definately not a bullet down the straights, but it's just a little 196A 12 volt

 

Slingshot%2034.jpg

 

The front wheels with the full moon hubcaps

 

Slingshot%2028_1.jpg

 

and the rears with the model kit wheels cut down for inserts

 

Slingshot%2040.jpg

 

1/32 piano wire radius arms dress up the front end a bit

 

Slingshot%2037.jpg

 

At the right is a 1/32 piano wire steering arm which attaches the front axle to the model kit body. It's removable.

 

Slingshot%2032.jpg

 

Time to start painting the body, motor and "little dude"  :)


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#24 racie35

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Posted 06 October 2015 - 07:35 AM

That's just cool.
Bruce Thomas

#25 Lone Wolf

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Posted 12 October 2015 - 03:52 PM

Imagination, concept, craftsmanship, all of the absolute highest quality.

 

Have you ever seen the Jose Rodriguez Jr. twin engine dual rear wheel Eddie Hill style 1/32 dragster?

 

I have pics and plans if needed.


Joe Lupo


#26 dc-65x

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Posted 12 October 2015 - 04:12 PM

Thanks Joe.........I was having doubts about any craftsmanship I might have after my first 3 attempts to paint the body. :o Thanks to Rodney schooling me, I think I'm back on track.  :crazy: 

 

 

Have you ever seen the Jose Rodriguez Jr. twin engine dual rear wheel Eddie Hill style 1/32 dragster?

 

Check out Rodney's 1/32 build too. He shows the magazine with the twin engine dragster mentioned starting with post #35:

 

Rodney's Drag Racers


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#27 dc-65x

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 06:35 PM

The 4th time is a charm.........well, maybe not a charm but it will have to do! After sanding off 3 painting attempts the little dragster body is finally wearing a half way decent coat of Tamiya French Blue. I also got the primary color on a few other items:

 

Slingshot%2025.jpg

 

I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong in the first 3 attempts. Luckily Rodney talked me through my mistakes. He said, "this is just 1960's model making 101". That's when I realized I'd never taken that class!  :o  

 

At 14 years old in 1964 I started going to commercial raceways. We ran vac bodies at my So. Cal. raceways. I never spray painted hard plastic bodies. Before that my model making was WW2 planes and tanks...........all brush painted.

 

I guess you really are never too old to learn...........THANKS RODNEY! :D

 

 


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#28 SlotStox#53

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Posted 18 October 2015 - 09:52 PM

Looking good! Thought you'd had enough of hard body painting after the hassle you had with the Cobra padlock Dragster...

Can't wait to see this little ripper all bolted up :D

#29 dc-65x

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 10:56 AM

Hi Paul,

 

Yes, painting these things has been a struggle for this "Vac Body" guy. :wacko2:  But in my particular reality (your reality may vary) some slot cars just have to be hard bodies. Drag cars are among them, so I struggle onward........ :dance3:


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#30 SlotStox#53

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 11:46 AM

Totally agree on some cars having to be hard body ones :good: Like a lot of the back in the day UK racers with open cage motors a lot of those were kit based.

Reminds me, will have to finish that MRRC powered Invicta with steering unit & supershells wheels... kind of got side tracked :laugh2:

#31 beardogracing

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 07:10 PM

Rick

 

The secret trick.

 

HEAT THE CAN IN HOT WATER

 

Give 3 coats 10 minutes between each coat. Spray outside with a temp above 70

 

Use Tamiya only 


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#32 dc-65x

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Posted 19 October 2015 - 08:40 PM

Thanks Chris. The heated spray is one of the few things I was doing right. :wacko2: :laugh2: :victory:


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#33 dc-65x

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Posted 01 November 2015 - 07:19 PM

Strike up the band and alert the media, I've FINALLY finished the Forty Niner Dragster: :shok: :dance3:

 

Slingshot%2050.jpg

 

Here are some views of the little rail:

 

Slingshot%2049.jpg

 

Slingshot%2042.jpg

 

Slingshot%2041.jpg

 

Slingshot%2043.jpg

 

The "little dude" is from an old Strombecker kit:

 

Slingshot%2023.jpg

 

Here he is in his spiffy white drivers suit............

 

Slingshot%2048.jpg

 

...............and all chopped up and shoehorned into the cockpit:

 

Slingshot%2047.jpg

 

The engine mounted on top of the Pittman 196A:

 

Slingshot%2046.jpg

 

Slingshot%2045.jpg

 

The bottom view showing everything mechanical shoehorned in place:

 

Slingshot%2035.jpg

 

Unfortunately, the decals didn't turn out all that great. I wish I could have slid the flames up even with the firewall but I'm just glad that I got the 50+ year old things on at all. I just had to have those flames!

 

It took a half hour soak to get them off the paper and then they were as stiff as a board. Micro Sol (red) decal setting solution was of little help. That stuff will almost dissolve new decals but did little on these stiff old buggers.

 

Anyway, it's a finished project and it's also one of my favorites............onward to the next one! :D


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#34 SlotStox#53

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Posted 01 November 2015 - 11:13 PM

:heart:

Love your Pro car creations with acres of flat brass & anglewinders :D All the Rod & Custom cars plus your RAM Cobra, but this little beauty is just the cutest and really do like it :good:

Begs the question ..... "What's next"?

#35 Hworth08

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Posted 02 November 2015 - 11:29 AM

Well that's just about perfect!


  • SlotStox#53 likes this
Don Hollingsworth

#36 Lone Wolf

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Posted 02 November 2015 - 04:50 PM

Well that turned out " just OK" :)

 

Of course that's nonsense, it's fantastic  :victory:

 

Too bad the driver lost the family jewels on that buzz saw of a crown gear  :heat:  My prediction? Pain " Clubber Lang "

 

If I may be so bold, maybe you can add some sort of metal straps to the fuel tank to duplicate the kit part. I have a feeling you could figure something out. Just a suggestion.

 

Keep em' coming Boss


Joe Lupo


#37 dc-65x

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Posted 02 November 2015 - 04:57 PM

Thanks for chiming in guys. I thought about cutting a little groove at each end of the gas tank to look a bit like the straps on a real tank. I can still do something like that..........but I'm already looking at new projects. :crazy:


Rick Thigpen
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There's much more to come...


#38 racie35

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Posted 29 November 2015 - 08:12 PM

Great work Rick!
Bruce Thomas

#39 Slot Car Mods Magazine

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Posted 25 February 2016 - 11:14 AM

kOoL build, I really dig the chassis...!!!

 

:good:


Ron Todhunter
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