Bubbly Faskolor! Causes? Fix?
#1
Posted 06 September 2015 - 08:21 PM
~Sean
"There are two kinds of people in this world. Those who race slot cars, and those who lose."
#2
Posted 07 September 2015 - 12:48 AM
Interesting. I'd try thinning it about 40-50% and do a test on some scrap plastic. Stir it before thinning and after.
Mike Boemker
#3
Posted 07 September 2015 - 01:06 AM
Interesting. I'd try thinning it about 40-50% and do a test on some scrap plastic. Stir it before thinning and after.
ive been stirring it for quite a while (i finally bought the tamiya paint stir rods rather than using popsicle stick, sooo much better). But for thinning, ive heard mixed opinions on what i should use. ive heard anything from only water, to a combination of 409, windex, or windshield fluid, and water, to only the products mentioned with no water. I guess it will be a time for science!
however, the bubleing is only in the black paint, all the others that i have are fine... hmmm...
"There are two kinds of people in this world. Those who race slot cars, and those who lose."
#4
Posted 07 September 2015 - 07:13 AM
Get a fresh new bottle - it goes bad after a few years.
Buy paint from places that sell lots of paint, otherwise it may have sat for a long time.
Trying to thin bad paint is a waste of time.
Paul Wolcott
#5
Posted 07 September 2015 - 07:25 AM
Sean,
For thinning I have tried 409, Windex, water, alcohol based washer solvent, and none of them work better than regular FastKolor thinner. Using 409 and Windex I ran into reinforcement tape not wanting to stick to the tape when I wanted to reinforce a body. I know some people that swear by both, but since switching, I have better luck in getting the paint to flow and stick better. It costs a little more yes, but the end result is worth it.
As Pablo said, if the paint doesn't spray right or stick properly or spatters when spraying, get a new bottle.
"... a good and wholesome thing is a little harmless fun in this world; it tones a body up and keeps him human and prevents him from souring." - Mark Twain
#6
Posted 07 September 2015 - 07:25 AM
acrylic bubbly brew gone bad...the binder used to hold the pigment and acrylic resin together has evaporated/changed. contamination is possible, but would take a lot of it to bubble the paint film like that so likely not. If it mixes and sprays ok, check adhesion on a test panel...forget that, cheep fix new paint.
Charlie McCullough
Charlie's Speed Shop
Kelly Racing Wanna Be
#7
Posted 07 September 2015 - 11:45 AM
Sean, was your photo taken before or after you mixed it up? If that's how it looked after mixing, perhaps those air bubbles were introduced while being mixed. What method was used for the mixing? Createx black might be cheaper & fresher if bought at a craft store such as Michaels, A.C. Moore, or Hobby Lobby. Createx manufactures Faskolor for Parma.
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
#8
Posted 07 September 2015 - 01:19 PM
Createx may make the paint for Parma, but IMO it's not the same. I use nothing but Createx now, and order it from Blick art supply so I'm pretty well assured it will be fresh. Two tips I found using Createx: first, it's made to be heat set (for painting on fabric) so using a hair dryer helps adhesion, and secondly I use the gloss top coat as a final coat to protect the paint against scratching. My bodies get destroyed before the paint ever chips off.
Paint is like food: when in doubt, throw it out
- Matt Sheldon likes this
#9
Posted 07 September 2015 - 01:50 PM
Createx may make the paint for Parma, but IMO it's not the same. I use nothing but Createx now, and order it from Blick art supply so I'm pretty well assured it will be fresh. Two tips I found using Createx: first, it's made to be heat set (for painting on fabric) so using a hair dryer helps adhesion, and secondly I use the gloss top coat as a final coat to protect the paint against scratching. My bodies get destroyed before the paint ever chips off.
Paint is like food: when in doubt, throw it out
Sean - That has the appearance of paint that either sat for awhile or had a bottle sealing issue.
John - Are you saying that you have had better adhesion with Createx?
When I took the time to paint bodies I basically did the same as what John stated. I have always mixed with Commercial Fantastic (after watching a YouTube video moons ago) and mix to the consistency of 2% milk. Spray at 35 psi or so and when time was convenient would hit it with a light fog of Krylon clear. The Fantastic looks and smells the exact same as Faskolor Thinner. I still prefer lacquers for many reasons, but acrylics have come a long way. Now if only there was an easy way to prevent freeze tip!
Matt Sheldon
#10
Posted 07 September 2015 - 03:25 PM
Matt:
Yes, I find the Createx adheres better, but that's strictly my own experience. And I experimented with the various concoctions for thinning fastkolor, never did like the results. I was going to post a body I just finished today but for some reason the pics I send from my phone to my home email don't get through, I'll post it tomorrow from my work computer.
Createx has some interesting colors like "transparent black" which is great for shading and shadowing, and they have a "Wicked" line that has some super nice colors. Also, their website has a ton ot information and tutorials.
#11
Posted 07 September 2015 - 04:18 PM
Sean, was your photo taken before or after you mixed it up? If that's how it looked after mixing, perhaps those air bubbles were introduced while being mixed. What method was used for the mixing? Createx black might be cheaper & fresher if bought at a craft store such as Michaels, A.C. Moore, or Hobby Lobby. Createx manufactures Faskolor for Parma.
it was taken after i mixed it up, and i was using the tamiya paint stirrer, but they were there before i started to mix.
i do think i have a large bottle of the createx black paint, as well as some others. has anybody used the createx thinners with faskolor? maybe worth a shot with some new paint if i need to thin it
"There are two kinds of people in this world. Those who race slot cars, and those who lose."
#12
Posted 07 September 2015 - 04:38 PM
Dick Blick is a good place to order many art supplies. I've used both Createx & Faskolor paints interchangeably with each other & both work well. I don't see one brand working better than the other. For some colors, Createx has less pigment than Faskolor. The best acrylic paint I have found for adhering to lexan is Liquitex. Unfortunately, it doesn't come airbrush-ready. you have to mix it with an airbrush medium.
Sean, if those bubbles or particles were in your paint when you opened it, don't bother trying to thin it, just throw it out. Use your Createx black. Yes, I've used Createx thinner with Faskolor. It's probably the same stuff Parma sells in smaller bottles. Polly-S Airbrush Thinner is another brand I've used successfully with Createx & Faskolor paints. I'm not sure it's still sold.
- James Fetherolf likes this
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
#13
Posted 07 September 2015 - 07:26 PM
Had to look around for my createx black, found it, and it is SOOO much smoother than the faskolor black, although i bought it a few years ago... hmmm, weird.
"There are two kinds of people in this world. Those who race slot cars, and those who lose."
#14
Posted 08 September 2015 - 07:37 AM
Not that weird. The Faskolor black went bad, and for whatever reason, your Createx didn't.
Some painters use plastic wrap around the seal before closing, then store them upside down.
I would highly recommend you not get sidetracked with paint thinning experiments on old paint.
As many here have suggested, the Faskolor is probably just old. It may have been old the day you bought it.
Paul Wolcott
#16
Posted 08 September 2015 - 08:18 AM
That body looks great John!
I intend to live forever! So far, so good.
#17
Posted 08 September 2015 - 09:37 AM
Thanks Bill!
#18
Posted 08 September 2015 - 11:12 PM
John, that's a very nice paint job now only if I could do that ;p maybe in a few months
"There are two kinds of people in this world. Those who race slot cars, and those who lose."
#19
Posted 09 September 2015 - 01:45 AM
Thanks Sean. The blue and silver are from the "Wicked" line, the yellow and red in the stripes are transparent "regular" colors, everything backed with white and then a coat of the clear gloss coat to protect the paint. That also makes cleaning oil residue etc from the bottom easier.
The silver has a lot more "sparkle" than most silvers. Not quite metalflake, but close.