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Standard guide not tripping the lap sensor


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#1 stuboyle1

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 11:03 PM

I have the standard 1/32 club chassis with the plastic guide. My timing sensors on my routed track frequently miss registering the car as it passes. I am using photo-voltaic sensors from Brent Carlson aka "Mr. Bugs". The is the only car I have which has this problem. I added seven grams of weight up front but that didn't solve the problem. Would switching to the stainless steel guide pin help?
Stuart Boyle




#2 Zippity

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Posted 24 February 2008 - 11:26 PM

What colour is your "standard" guide? Clear?

We had the same issues with our PE cells. We had to resort to using black (or a very dark colour) guide flags.

#3 stuboyle1

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 08:19 AM

The standard TSRF Club chassis used to come with a black plastic guide. This is what I have. I understand they now come with a stainless steel pin. I think my problem is that the guide is too shallow.
Stuart Boyle

#4 TSR

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 09:29 AM

This problem happens with certain timing devices using the car's guide as a tripping device. However this generally only happens with the TSR's steel pin, not with the black plastic blade (that SHOULD be upgraded to the steel pin anyway!).

You may want to contact Mr. Bugs for his solution to this issue.

Please note that we recommend the use of "commercial" types lap counting programs with "dead strip" style tripping devices, because they work really well and their racing programs are providing so many great options. SRT is such a program that will work well in any old used-up obsolete computer.

#5 stuboyle1

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 01:09 PM

Well, that's a bummer. I was planning to upgrade to the steel pin and was hoping it would also fix my tripping issue as well.

I sense the current problem might be with the depth of the black plastic guide and the front of the car lifting a bit. I had a problem with the white guide on the original Slot.it 956s registering. This was problem was solved with a black Sharpie. Maybe a little black paint on the steel pin might help.

I will ask Mr. Bugs, as you suggested, as well. Thanks.
Stuart Boyle

#6 TSR

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 01:19 PM

Some of our customers have used a piece of black electrical tape wrapped like a little 1/4" long flag around the steel pin to register on their systems.

But the real solution is to figure out a better tripping system, such as used on commercial tracks, because it sounds rather silly that any tripping system would be unable to register any form of guide flag or pin. For Lord's sake, what would happen if you had HO cars, ALL with even a smaller steel pin that the TSR cars??? :blink:

Mr. Bugman may have a solution for HIS system, hopefully... even the basic DS lap counter will register a TSR car with no issues...

Please keep us posted so that we may be able to help others with this matter.

#7 stuboyle1

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 01:57 PM

Thanks, Philippe.

I just got a quick reply from Brent Carlson, aka "Mr. Bugs", who suggested the tape solution as well. Tape is a lot quicker fix than switching to a deadstrip, so I will just do that for now until I have time to do something else.
Stuart Boyle

#8 TSR

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 02:09 PM

Cool! I hope that this will work for you.

Don't forget to bring your car to the current specs for best results: steel guide pin centered between the contacts, TSR/Ortmann tires, and if you run magnets, a single unit at the back of the car. :)

#9 eAddict

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 02:55 PM

Also take a look at where you have the counter.

You mentioned that the front end was lifting and that leads me to believe you have it in a very fast part of your track. I moved my sensor track into a slower section and all my guide issues disappeared.

#10 TSR

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Posted 25 February 2008 - 03:05 PM

Good advice! :)

Last Saturday I attended the Porsche Lit Fair at the LAX Hilton, where our good racing friend Bob Scott had a six-lane wood track with I believe, a similar tripping system as used by Mr. Bugman.

I drove three TSR cars there, a NASCAR Ford Taurus with the standard TSR motor, a Porsche 956 fitted with a Plafit Fox (slow boat anchor of a motor IMHO), and a rocketship TSR chassis fitted with the D3 hot-rod motor (almost out of control with the available 15-ohm controllers!). Every lap (including the day's fastest acomplished with the Ford) was duly recorded.

So it might be a question of setup, and the Vince's idea of placing the counter in a slower area could be beneficial.

#11 Ramcatlarry

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Posted 26 February 2008 - 10:57 PM

Most "in-slot" counters use an infared LED break beam module. 1) Depth of flag/pin is critical to break beam. 2) Flag/pin needs to be opaque to infared - many dyed (or markered) flags are not opaque enough (drag strip experience) 3) Time of break can be importent. Pin is minimal time, flag is longer time.

Many HO and commercial units use/used overhead light/receiver in track beam systems. In these the whole CAR is breaking the beam, but the light bridge can get in the way scenic-wise.

Braking zone counters DO help consistent counting. Less car bounce and nose lifting. The Ninco racers at last year's hobby show races lost a lot of laps due to this fact.

Larry D. Kelley, MA
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