I have some polished aluminum wheels that I would like to paint the "inside" flat black. So far everything I've tried looks good but won't stick. Any suggestions? All help appreciated.....
Don
Posted 30 October 2015 - 07:25 PM
I have some polished aluminum wheels that I would like to paint the "inside" flat black. So far everything I've tried looks good but won't stick. Any suggestions? All help appreciated.....
Don
Don Weaver
A slot car racer who never grew up!
The supply of government exceeds demand.
L.H. Lapham
If the brain-eating amoeba invades Washington
it will starve to death...
Posted 30 October 2015 - 08:44 PM
What sort of paint were you using that didn't adhere? I used to paint fronts with arm dye. Lucky Bob's sells a black. I assume you first cleaned the wheels with something such as alcohol, lighter fluid, naphtha, etc.
Posted 30 October 2015 - 09:45 PM
I've painted aluminum front wheels with good old Testors enamel, never had any problems.
I've never tried painting rears.
I am not a doctor, but I played one as a child with the girl next door.
Posted 31 October 2015 - 06:44 AM
I used some old off-brand spray can. Arm dye sounds like a possibility. Thanks, guys.....
Don
Don Weaver
A slot car racer who never grew up!
The supply of government exceeds demand.
L.H. Lapham
If the brain-eating amoeba invades Washington
it will starve to death...
Posted 31 October 2015 - 12:50 PM
One of the best primers for aluminum is zinc chromate. Once primed with it, normal rattle spray paints should adhere very well.
Krylon claims their rattle can spray paints work fine on aluminum.
Paul Wolcott
Posted 01 November 2015 - 11:22 AM
grab an old axle and chuck it in your dremel or drill.
attach the wheel to the axle.
Get a Q-Tip and either a scotchbrite pad or steel wool and a solvent cleaner like acetone/lighter fluid/rubbing alcohol.
spin the wheel with the drill and carefully insert the scothchbrite or wool into the wheel . this will roughen the inside of the wheel, giving the paint something to stick to.
dip the q-tip in your cleaner and clean the wheel to remove any residue from the sanding (I prefer using some lacquer thinner as a pre-paint surface prep).
Paint it using several light coats.
it's quick and easy to do. it took more time to type this than it does to prep and paint.
If toy want to simulate an anodized finish, use arm dye or a sharpie and then a coat of clear nail polish to seal it......
Jeff Bigelow
"It's not about winning or losing the race,
it's about how good you look for the concours judge"
Posted 20 February 2016 - 07:34 PM
I recently wanted to accomplish the same task. If you are a hunter there are times when bluing on steel or black on aluminum gun parts is needed.
Birchwood Casey makes both for steel or aluminum at your local sporting goods store. It dyes the metal part and does not come off.
You can make it as light or with repeated application as dark as you want and just uses a few que-tips in the process.
John M Wimett
Rattle Can Racing
"Speed costs money....how fast do you want to go?"
Posted 26 February 2016 - 02:44 AM
This might be coming in a little late, but you might want to try Duracoat paint. This paint is used for gun metal parts and should last quite awhile once put on.
David Cantwell
Posted 09 March 2016 - 07:14 PM
Steve Meadows
Posted 19 March 2016 - 05:54 AM
This is the stuff i use, bonds very well as its an etching primer, and just happens to be a flat black...
Steve Meadows